DROPS / 160 / 8

Timeless Beauty Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st with lace pattern and round yoke, worked top down in ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no bs-082
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 82-90-100-110-120-132 cm / 32 1/4"-35½"-39½"-43½"-47 1/4"-52"
Full length: 54-55-58-59-65-66 cm / 21 1/4"-21½"-22 3/4"-23 1/4"-25½"-26"

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color no 1306, powder

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st or 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 – for garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 5-5-5-5-6-6 pieces

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 6.80 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 6.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band, i.e. in right side of piece seen from RS (i.e. seen from knitting direction). 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 2, 9, 16, 23 and 30 cm /
3/4", 3½", 6 1/4", 9", 11 3/4"
SIZE M: 2, 9, 16, 23 and 30 cm /
3/4", 3½", 6 1/4", 9", 11 3/4"
SIZE L: 2, 10, 18, 26 and 34 cm /
3/4", 4", 7", 10 1/4", 13½"
SIZE XL: 2, 10, 18, 26 and 34 cm /
3/4", 4", 7", 10 1/4", 13½"
SIZE XXL: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 and 37 cm /
3/4", 3½", 6 1/4", 9", 11 3/4", 14½".
SIZE XXXL: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 and 37 cm /
3/4", 3½", 6 1/4", 9", 11 3/4", 14½".
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JACKET:
Worked top down, back and forth on circular needle.

YOKE:
Cast on 133-141-157-161-161-177 sts (includes 6 band sts in each side) on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with BabyAlpaca Silk. K 1 row from WS. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST back and forth - see explanation above! Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. Now work PATTERN A.1 with 6 band sts in garter st in each side (on 9th row K last st before band), AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd row in diagram inc 18-20-30-32-32-34 sts evenly - READ INCREASE TIP, and on 11th row inc 15-19-29-29-29-33 sts evenly = 166-180-216-222-222-244 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.1 has been worked vertically, continue in garter st and insert 10 markers in the piece as follows: Work the first 16-18-18-21-21-23 sts, insert a marker, then insert a marker 15-16-20-20-20-22 sts apart, after last marker there are 15-18-18-21-21-23 sts. On next row from RS beg inc. Inc alternately on right and left side of markers (= 10 inc). Inc every other row 0-2-0-3-7-7 times, every 4th row 10-10-9-9-8-8 times and every 6th row 5-5-7-7-7-8 times = 316-350-376-412-442-474 sts. On next row from RS, inc 7-3-9-1-3-9 sts evenly = 323-353-385-413-445-483 sts. Piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''. On next row (= from WS) work as follows: K the first 51-55-61-66-72-80 sts (= front piece), slip the next 66-72-76-80-84-88 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts under sleeve, work the next 89-99-111-121-133-147 sts (= back piece), slip the next 66-72-76-80-84-88 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts under sleeve, work the remaining 51-55-61-66-72-80 sts (= front piece).

BODY:
There are now 211-229-253-277-301-331 sts for body. Now switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Then work as follows: 6 band sts in garter st, A.2, repeat A.3 until 12 sts remain, A.4, 6 band sts in garter st. NOTE: Work the 6 band sts in each side in garter st until finished measurements. When A.2-A.4 have been worked vertically, continue with A.5 (on 7th row K the last st before band). Then work A.6, inc 6-0-0-0-0-6 sts evenly on 1st row (K last st before band) = 217-229-253-277-301-337 sts. When A.6 has been worked vertically, continue with A.7 1 time vertically (on 5th row K the last st before band). Then work A.8, inc 4-8-8-8-8-4 sts evenly on 1st row (K last st before band) = 221-237-261-285-309-341 sts. When A.X has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.X 0-0-0-0-1-1 more time before continuing with the rest of diagram. Now continue with A.7 (K last st before band). Then work as follows: A.2, A.3 until 6 sts remain before band, AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-4-4-4-4-2 sts evenly on 1st row in A.3, A.4 = 223-241-265-289-313-343 sts. Finish with A.7 0-0-1-1-0-0 times vertically (on 5th row K last st before band). When entire diagram has been worked vertically, work 2 row in stockinette st inside band sts while AT THE SAME TIME on row from RS inc 17-20-23-25-27-27 sts evenly = 240-261-288-314-340-370 sts. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work in garter st back and forth for 2 cm / 3/4''. Bind off alternately with K 1 and P 1. Piece measures approx. 54-55-58-59-65-66 cm / 21 1/4"-21½"-22 3/4"-23 1/4"-25½"-26".

SLEEVE:
Worked in garter st back and forth on circular needle. There are 66-72-76-80-84-88 sts for each sleeve. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Slip sts from stitch holder back on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and cast on 6-6-6-7-7-7 new sts at the end of the next 2 rows = 78-84-88-94-98-102 sts. When sleeve measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side of piece by K 2 tog. Repeat dec every 1½-2-2½-3-3½-3½ cm / ½"-3/4"-7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/4"-1 1/4" 7-6-5-4-3-3 more times = 62-70-76-84-90-94 sts. When piece measures 19 cm / 7½'' in all sizes, work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, A.9 until 1 st remains, 1 edge st in garter st. When entire A.9 have been worked vertically, work 1 ridge. Loosely bind off.
Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew underarm seams in outer loops of edge sts. Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, 1 YO
= K 2 tog, 1 YO
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= inc row: Inc sts evenly - see explanation in pattern.



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 160-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Lorna MacGregor 28.09.2020 - 18:04:

Question about the measurement for the yoke. For size L the pattern instructions provide 100 rows for the yoke and says it will "measure approx. 21cm". This measure reflects a tension of 24 sts X 48 rows in garter st = 10 cm X 10 cm. with a size 3 mm needle. However the pattern instructs to use a 2.5 mm needle for the yoke, so of course it measures only 18 cm. Would I better to use a 3 mm needle for the yoke also? My tension with the 3 mm needle is perfect.

DROPS Design 29.09.2020 kl. 14:47:

Dear Mrs MacGregor, feel free to use the larger needle, or to continue to given measurements. Happy knitting!

Lorna MacGregor 26.09.2020 - 02:00:

A question regarding tension -- the pattern gives the tension for a 3 mm needle as 24 sts X 32 Rows in stockinette st, or 24 sts X 48 rows in garter st = 10 cm X 10 cm. But the yoke is knit with a 2.5 mm needle with garter st. What should the tension be for the smaller needle in garter st? Thank you very much.

DROPS Design 28.09.2020 kl. 08:48:

Dear Mrs MacGregor, we do not have any tension for the smaller needle, check your gauge with the larger needle, should it be right, then your tension with smaller needle should match with same tension - read more about tension here. Happy knitting!

Patricia Bischof 11.07.2020 - 22:17:

Can I download this pattern or do I always have to go thru your website

DROPS Design 11.07.2020 kl. 23:10:

Dear Patricia, you can not download our patterns, but you can print it directly from our website or you can use virtual printer in your pc and save it as .pdf. Happy knitting!

Angela Brandt 21.01.2020 - 03:41:

Liebe Lorenza Vielen Dank, ich habe meinen Fehler bemerkt. Ich hatte die 6 Maschen für die Blenden nicht mitgerechnet, deswegen bin ich nur auf 9 Marker gekommen. Liebe Grüße Angela

Angela Brandt 20.01.2020 - 14:52:

Ich stricke in Grösse M und habe 180 Maschen Wenn ich die Markierst setze komme ich aber nur auf 9 Markierst. Ich setze den ersten Markierst nach 18 Maschen und dann immer nach 16 Maschen, also kann ich nur 9 Markierst setzen. Kann da etwas nicht stimmen ? Es bleiben am Ende auch nicht 18 sondern 22 Maschen . Irgendetwas stimmt hier nicht. Bitte prüfen Sie das für mich. Ich habe schon mehrere Jacken nach Ihren Mustern gestrickt. Liebe Grüsse Angela

DROPS Design 20.01.2020 kl. 16:05:

Liebe Frau Brandt, so setzen Sie die Markierer ein: 18 Maschen, 1 Markierer, (16 Maschen 1 Markierer) x 9, 18 Maschen bleiben nach dem letzten Markierer: 18 + 16x9 + 18= 180. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Lorenza 14.01.2020 - 11:51:

E' possibile eseguire questo capo con i ferri diritti?

DROPS Design 14.01.2020 kl. 12:44:

Buongiorno Lorenza. Le spiegazioni sono date per lavorare in ferri di andata e ritorno. Può usare i ferri dritti senza cambiare le indicazioni. Vengono consigliati i ferri circolari perchè più comodi per lavorare con un numero alto di maglie. Buon lavoro!

Ulli Kweta 26.07.2019 - 18:14:

Darf ich fragen, welche Randmaschen hier verstrickt sind? Vielen Dank für die wunderbare Anleitung.

DROPS Design 27.07.2019 kl. 09:03:

Liebe Ulli, die Randmaschen sind in den Blenden-Maschen enthalten und werden auch kraus rechts gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

Melody 02.03.2018 - 08:57:

May I use a 50/50% merino and silk yarn for this cardigan?

DROPS Design 04.03.2018 kl. 18:40:

Dear Melanie, yes, you can use a different yarn, that is similar weight, but please do a gauge swatch and check if it has the same stitch count as given in the pattern. Happy Knitting!

Miriam Rocio 23.12.2017 - 22:14:

Buenas tardes. Estoy tejiendo la chaqueta en talla S, empecé con 133 y ahora debo seguir con el patrón A.1 que tiene 6 puntos y en los bordes 6 puntos musgo a cada lado, 133-12= 121 puntos, y 121/6=20.17. Tejiendo 20 veces el patrón A.1 me sobra 1 punto, cómo tejo este punto que sobra? o debo empezar con 132 puntos?

DROPS Design 30.12.2017 kl. 12:59:

Hola Miriam, el punto que sobra se trabaja como el primer punto de A.1, pero en la fila 9 este punto se trabaja de derecho.

Patricia Bischof 03.11.2017 - 20:32:

Like others my friend and I had difficulty matching the gauge indicated. However, my question is why do you list the gauge for the garter stitch on a 3.00 mm. when the yoke is worked on a 2.5 mm. Why is there no gauge indicated for the needle that is recommended? By the way it still turned out beautifully all 4 times!

DROPS Design 06.11.2017 kl. 08:46:

Dear Mrs Bischof, if you get the correct tension with larger needle, your tension will be right with the smaller needles. Happy knitting!

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