DROPS / 162 / 18

Summer Escape by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS skirt with double crochet, lace pattern, worked top down in ”Safran”. Size S-XXXL.

Tags: lace, skirts, top down,

DROPS design: Pattern no e-232
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.

Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-800-850 g color no 18, off white

DROPS Hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), or A.1 = 5 cm / 2'' in width, A.2 = 10 cm / 4'' in width and A.3 = approx. 7 cm / 2¾'' in width.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Loop (white) NO 523: 4 pieces in all sizes

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc from beg of row/round with 3 ch. Finish row with 1 dc in 3rd ch from previous row (when piece is worked back and forth) and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (when piece is worked in the round).
DO NOT replace first sc at beg of round but work 1 ch before sc at beg of round. Finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same dc.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook = 1 st dec.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.
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SKIRT:
Work back and forth, top down to after vent in the side, then work in the round.
Work 186-209-232-258-279-305 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Safran. Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next ch 4, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* until 3-5-7-5-5-3 ch remain, skip 1 ch and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 2-4-6-4-4-2 dc = 158-178-198-220-238-260 dc. Then work back and forth with 1 dc in every dc - READ CROCHET INFO. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When 5 rows have been worked vertically, insert 6 markers in the piece as follows: First marker after 14-14-16-20-21-22 dc, then there should be 26-30-33-36-39-43 dc between every marker, there will be 14-14-17-20-22-23 dc after last marker at the end of row. On next row inc 1 dc before all markers – READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every other row 6-6-7-8-9-10 more times - NOTE: Inc alternately before and after markers = 200-220-246-274-298-326 dc. AT THE SAME TIME when 12 rows in total have been worked vertically, end the vent in the side and continue piece in the round, beg round in the side – READ CROCHET INFO! When piece measures 24-24-25-25-25-26 cm / 9½"-9½"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4", inc 28-32-30-26-38-22 st evenly on next round = 228-252-276-300-336-348 sts. Now work pattern as follows: Work from 1st round in A.1 (= 12 dc) 19-21-23-25-28-29 times in width. When A.X has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.X 1 more time before continuing with next round in diagram. Then work 1-2-2-1-2-3 rounds with 1 dc in every dc, AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 36-36-36-36-24-36 sts evenly = 264-288-312-336-360-384 dc. Now work from 1st round in A.2 (= 11-12-13-14-15-16 repetitions), AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 12 dc evenly in all sizes = 276-300-324-348-372-396 dc. Continue with A.1 (= 23-25-27-29-31-33 repetitions) 1 time vertically, AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 12-20-12-20-12-20 dc evenly = 288-320-336-368-384-416 dc. Now work A.3 (= 18-20-21-23-24-26 repetitions). When A.3 has been worked vertically, repeat A.Z 1-1-1-2-2-2 more times vertically. Now work as follows: 1 ch (= 1 sc), ** work * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, ch 4, skip 3 dc, 1 sc in next dc **, repeat from **-** the entire round, and finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round.

BUTTONHOLE LOOPS:
Along the opening on front piece work buttonhole loops as follows (beg at the bottom): 2 sc in first dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc, * work 2 sc in each of the next 2 dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total and finish with 2 sc in last dc at the top, turn and work back as follows: 1 sc in every sc and 3 sc in every ch-space.

BUTTON BAND:
Along the other side of the opening work 5 rows with sc back and forth (on 1st row work 2 sc in every dc = 24 sc), cut the yarn. Sew the buttons on to the button band.

EDGE:
Work an edge at top of waist on skirt as follows from RS: Fasten the strand with 1 sl st at the edge of button folding edge, ch 1, * ch 1, skip ch 1, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* along the entire edge of waist. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= dc in/around st
= dc around ch-space
= ch
= sc in/around st
= sc in ch-space
= work 2 dc in same st as follows: 1 dc, but wait with last pull through (there are now 2 loops on hook), work 1 dc in same st. Pull last loop through all 3 loops on hook.
= dtr
= 8 ch
= Work 1 dc in next dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc the same way, pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook
= 4 ch
= beg here = 1st round
= round is explained in pattern



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 162-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (73)

Anu 05.08.2018 - 12:11:

Lihtne muster, imeilus tulemus. Aitäh!

Manon 21.07.2018 - 20:30:

De eerste toeren stokjes zijn heen en weer. Is dat de bovenkant van de rok? Met andere woorden, moet dit, als ik hem om mij heen wikkel, netjes aansluiten?

Meg 22.04.2018 - 06:19:

Hello, how many rows should there be at the top before the diagram portion starts in the medium size? It seems like it should be 18 but it’s not 24 cm high for me with that many rows. Counting the rows in the model’s photo appears to be more than 20 rows. Thanks in advance!

DROPS Design 23.04.2018 kl. 10:31:

Dear Meg, after increasing have been done, continue with dc until piece measures 24 cm, ie if you have the correct tension in height (12 rows = 10 cm, you should have approx. 29 rows. Happy crocheting!

Wil Van Balen 06.03.2018 - 10:09:

Zou ik dit patroon ook met Dropshot Parijs kunnen maken? En ik ben klein van stuk moet ik dan het bovenste gedeelte korter maken?

DROPS Design 07.03.2018 kl. 20:22:

Hoi Wil, DROPS paris is dikker garen, en dus niet zo geschikt omdat de rok dan te zwaar wordt. Je kunt daarom het beste garen uit garengroep A kiezen. Om hem korter te maken kun je inderdaad een klein beetje van het bovengedeelte afhalen, maar je kunt bijvoorbeeld ook 1 herhaling van A.1 en of A.3 minder doen.

Sara 07.02.2018 - 03:26:

Me gusta mucho, muy bonita, es diferente a lo diario y nunca pasa de moda.

Cecilia Andersson 08.08.2017 - 12:35:

När det står att man ska öka två maskor före och efter markering ska man efter ökning virka ett varv utan ökning eller ska man öka.

DROPS Design 08.08.2017 kl. 13:48:

Du ska öka på vartannat varv, så då virkar du alltid ett varv utan ökningar innan du ökar nästa gång.

Mona 22.07.2017 - 19:08:

Hallo...mein Rock ist fertig😆 juhuu.. Habt ihr vielleicht ein anderes Abschluss Muster für den Rock? Laut Anleitung soll man ja nach dem Muster A3 1lm..4lm.1fm um den Nächsten Luftmaschenbogen usw. Das finde ich irgendwie nicht optimal ich muss mit 4 Lm 7stb überspringen und dann wieder 4lm die 4stb. Dadurch zieht sich der Rock am unteren Saum sehr unschön zusammen. Oder verstehe ich die Anleitung wiedermal falsch😆? Danke für eure schnelle hilfe

DROPS Design 24.07.2017 kl. 09:35:

Liebe Mona, am Ende häkeln Sie so: 1 Lm (= 1 feste M), ** * 4 Lm, 1 feste M (fM) um den nächsten Lm-Bogen *, von *-* noch weitere 2 x wdh [= 4 Lm, 1 feste M (fM) um den nächsten Lm-Bogen, 4 Lm, 1 feste M (fM) um den nächsten Lm-Bogen, 4 Lm, 1 feste M (fM) um den nächsten Lm-Bogen], dann 4 Lm, 3 Stb überspringen, 1 fM in das nächste Stb **, von **-** bis Rd-Ende wdh, dh so wird es gehäkelt: *(4 Lm, 1 fM um den nächsten Lm-Bogen) x 3, dann 4 Lm, 3 Stb überspringen, 1 fM in das nächste Stb häkeln*, und von *-* wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Uschi 08.07.2017 - 20:10:

Ich glaube ich habe einen fehler gefunden in der Anleitung. für größe M.... nach der ersten zunahme reihe sollen es 14 Maschen nach dem letzten Makierer sein, laut Anleitung. ich habe aber nur 13 maschen. und die abstände zwischen den Makierern stimmen auch. Also liegt wohl der Fehler in der Anteitung. Bin schon verzweifelt weil ich schon dachte ich wäre zu dumm um zählen :)

DROPS Design 10.07.2017 kl. 10:35:

Liebe Frau Uschi, Sie haben 178 Stb, dann werden die Markierer so eingesetzt: 14 M, dann 5 x 30 M = 178 - 14 - 150 = 14 M bleiben nach den letzten Markierer. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Mona 03.07.2017 - 18:28:

Hallo. Zwischen den Zunahmen immer eine reihe/runde ohne Zunahmen drüber Häkeln? Zb. 1. Rd vor dem Makierer Zunehmen .... 2. Rd. Ohne Zunahme häkeln...3. Rd nach dem Makierer zunehme n usw. Danke fürs Antworten

DROPS Design 04.07.2017 kl. 09:03:

Liebe Mona, der Rock wird in Hin- und Rück-Reihen gehäkelt, bei den 6 Zunahmen vor/nach den Markierern, sollen Sie in jeder 2. Reihe zunehmen, so 1 Reihe mit Zunahmen vor jedem Markierer, 1 Reihe ohne Zunahme, 1 Reihe nach jedem Markierer, 1 Reihe ohne Zunahme und diese 4 Reihe wiederholen (siehe Größe). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Mona 01.07.2017 - 12:50:

Hallo....ich habe ein kleines Verständnis problem...nach der 5.reihe müssen 6 Makierer gesetzt werden, müssen sie wärend die 6. Reihe gehäkelt wird gesetzt werden oder ohne häkeln Makierer setzten? ... ab der Ersten Zunahme Reihe gleich je zwei Zunahme machen? ( vor und nach dem Makierer?) Oder erst ab der 2.Zunahme Reihe 2 Zunahmen?

DROPS Design 03.07.2017 kl. 09:18:

Liebe Mona, diese Riehe mit Markierern wird nicht gehäkelt, dann wird es so zugenommen: bei der 1. Zunahmereihe vor jedem Markierer zunehmen, bei der 2. Zunahmenreihe nach jedem Markierer zunehmen, und so wiederholen, dh bei der nächsten Zunahmenreihe vor jedem Markierer, dann bei der nächsten Zunahmenreihe nach jedem Markierer zunehmen, usw. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

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