DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Summer Escape

Crochet DROPS skirt with double crochet, lace pattern, worked top down in ”Safran”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS 162-18
DROPS design: Pattern no e-232
Yarn group A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.

DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-800-850 g color no 18, off white

DROPS Hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), or A.1 = 5 cm / 2'' in width, A.2 = 10 cm / 4'' in width and A.3 = approx. 7 cm / 2¾'' in width.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON: Loop (white) NO 523: 4 pieces in all sizes


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.55$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Replace first dc from beg of row/round with 3 ch. Finish row with 1 dc in 3rd ch from previous row (when piece is worked back and forth) and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round (when piece is worked in the round).
DO NOT replace first sc at beg of round but work 1 ch before sc at beg of round. Finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round.

Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same dc.

Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook = 1 st dec.

See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

Work back and forth, top down to after vent in the side, then work in the round.
Work 186-209-232-258-279-305 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Safran. Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next ch 4, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* until 3-5-7-5-5-3 ch remain, skip 1 ch and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 2-4-6-4-4-2 dc = 158-178-198-220-238-260 dc. Then work back and forth with 1 dc in every dc - READ CROCHET INFO. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! When 5 rows have been worked vertically, insert 6 markers in the piece as follows: First marker after 14-14-16-20-21-22 dc, then there should be 26-30-33-36-39-43 dc between every marker, there will be 14-14-17-20-22-23 dc after last marker at the end of row. On next row inc 1 dc before all markers – READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every other row 6-6-7-8-9-10 more times - NOTE: Inc alternately before and after markers = 200-220-246-274-298-326 dc. AT THE SAME TIME when 12 rows in total have been worked vertically, end the vent in the side and continue piece in the round, beg round in the side – READ CROCHET INFO! When piece measures 24-24-25-25-25-26 cm / 9½"-9½"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4", inc 28-32-30-26-38-22 st evenly on next round = 228-252-276-300-336-348 sts. Now work pattern as follows: Work from 1st round in A.1 (= 12 dc) 19-21-23-25-28-29 times in width. When A.X has been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.X 1 more time before continuing with next round in diagram. Then work 1-2-2-1-2-3 rounds with 1 dc in every dc, AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 36-36-36-36-24-36 sts evenly = 264-288-312-336-360-384 dc. Now work from 1st round in A.2 (= 11-12-13-14-15-16 repetitions), AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 12 dc evenly in all sizes = 276-300-324-348-372-396 dc. Continue with A.1 (= 23-25-27-29-31-33 repetitions) 1 time vertically, AT THE SAME TIME on last round inc 12-20-12-20-12-20 dc evenly = 288-320-336-368-384-416 dc. Now work A.3 (= 18-20-21-23-24-26 repetitions). When A.3 has been worked vertically, repeat A.Z 1-1-1-2-2-2 more times vertically. Now work as follows: 1 ch (= 1 sc), ** work * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 2 more times, ch 4, skip 3 dc, 1 sc in next dc **, repeat from **-** the entire round, and finish with 1 sl st in first ch on round.

Along the opening on front piece work buttonhole loops as follows (beg at the bottom): 2 sc in first dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc, * work 2 sc in each of the next 2 dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* 3 times in total and finish with 2 sc in last dc at the top, turn and work back as follows: 1 sc in every sc and 3 sc in every ch-space.

Along the other side of the opening work 5 rows with sc back and forth (on 1st row work 2 sc in every dc = 24 sc), cut the yarn. Sew the buttons on to the button band.

Work an edge at top of waist on skirt as follows from RS: Fasten the strand with 1 sl st at the edge of button folding edge, ch 1, * ch 1, skip ch 1, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* along the entire edge of waist. Fasten off.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = dc in/around st
symbols = dc around ch-space
symbols = ch
symbols = sc in/around st
symbols = sc in ch-space
symbols = work 2 dc in same st as follows: 1 dc, but wait with last pull through (there are now 2 loops on hook), work 1 dc in same st. Pull last loop through all 3 loops on hook.
symbols = dtr
symbols = 8 ch
symbols = Work 1 dc in next dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc the same way, pull yarn through all 4 sts on hook
symbols = 4 ch
symbols = beg here = 1st round
symbols = round is explained in pattern
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (93)

country flag Basil wrote:

I am confused on how to go from working back and forth at the beginning of the pattern to working in the round. Do I join to the first double crochet to create a circle? And do I sew the two sides together? Thanks

19.05.2024 - 05:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Basil, first you work back and forth to create a vent; this will be used for the buttonband and buttonhole band. Then you join to continue in the round. The joining method is explained in CROCHET INFO: 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain from the beginning of the round and then simply work over the previous stitches. Happy crochetting!

20.05.2024 - 00:19

country flag Beth Noll wrote:

After finishing the vent in the side, when you begin working in the round, to you continue to turn after each round or do you just work on the RS?

08.05.2024 - 20:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Beth, there is no mention in turning the piece when you work on the round, so you should crochet from the right side, on the round. Happy Crafting!

09.05.2024 - 04:51

country flag Anne wrote:

The pattern refers to A.1 to A.3, but then it refers to A.X and A.Z. I am so confused! Is this a typo or am I just being dense?

07.05.2024 - 11:10

country flag Camille wrote:

Merci pour votre rapide réponse à ma précédente question, cela m'aide pour le rang 9. En revanche pour le rang 15 cela ne me paraît pas logique puisqu'en faisant 3ml et en finissant le tour par une maille coulée dans la 3eme ml, cela fera presque comme une bride hors ici il faut un trou, et je n'aurais qu'une maille en l'air (avant la mc) au lieu d'en avoir 3. Vouliez-vous dire que ma mc doit se faire dans la 1ere ml lorsque je fini le tour ? Merci encore.

23.02.2024 - 14:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Camille, si vous ne voulez pas ces 3 ml au début du 15ème rang, vous pouvez commencer le tour différemment, par ex par la 2ème des 2 dernières brides du motif précédent, mais sinon, c'est la façon la plus simple, ces 3 mailles en l'air permettront aux 2 ml suivantes d'être à la hauteur des brides à crocheter ensuite (avec 1 ml vous auriez un arceau plus petit). Bon crochet!

23.02.2024 - 15:38

country flag Camille wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment démarrer certains rangs de A2. Pour le rang numéro 9 (1er rang = la flèche) par 4 mailles en l'air, mais celles-ci font partie du motif 8 mailles en l'air qui se répète tout le long. Hors si je démarre mon rang par 4 mailles en l'air, celle-ci restent "attachés" au rang précédent la où l'on a fait une maille coulée pour finir le rond. Ce même soucis se pose lors du rang 15. Pouvez-vous m'aider ? Merci.

23.02.2024 - 13:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Camille, remplacez la 1ère maille de chaque tour comme indiqué sous INFO CROCHET, au début du 9ème tour, commencez par 1 ml + les 4 ml du début du tour et terminez par 1 mc dans la 1ère ml du début du tour, au 15ème tour, commencez par 3 ml pour avoir la bonne hauteur, et terminez par 1 mc dans la 3ème ml du début du tour, ces 3 ml ne compteront pas dans le nombre de mailles du tour. Bon crochet!

23.02.2024 - 14:12

country flag Pyggis wrote:

Hej Jag försöker göra den här kjolen men eftersom jag är så smal måste jag anpassa garn därefter. Om jag vid uppläggning får rätt mått som passar mig kommer det då att funka när knapparna ska dit eller blir den ännu bredare då? Hur många cm extra i så fall ska dit med knappar o knapphål. Vill inte göra om den i onödan hur ska jag tänka?

06.02.2024 - 19:06

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Pyggis. Design avd. har dessverre ikke mulighet til å omregne til en mindre størrelse på en allerede skrevet oppskrift. Om du skal hekle den smalere må du passe på at de 6 merkene som skal settes etter 5 rader i høyden vil samsvare med siden (der knappene skal være) / at du har samme maskeantall mellom merkene, bortsett fra 1. og 6. merke. Du må også passe på å ha riktig maskeantallet i forhold diagrammene når de skal hekles. mvh DROPS Design

15.02.2024 - 11:37

country flag Betina wrote:

No entiendo la parte del rombo del vestido, podrías hacer un video, me encanta este vestido, muchas gracias

06.01.2024 - 02:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Betina, todos los videos relevantes para realizar la labor los puedes encontrar en la sección de videos, después de las instrucciones escritas y los diagramas. Si lo que te da problemas es el diagrama a ganchillo puedes leer la siguiente lección: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=69&cid=23.

08.01.2024 - 00:00

country flag Alexandra wrote:

Bonjour Je viens de démarrer cette jupe en taille S. Après un essai avec 1 crochet 3.5, je suis passée au 3 car trop grand. Et ça l est toujours :( Une fois les deux premiers rangs faits, j ai une taille de 82 cm au lieu de 72 (et je fais 64 au plus fin :p ). D après-vous, dois-je passer à un crochet 2.5 voire 2 ou plutôt retirer des mailles ? Si je dois retirer des mailles, pouvez-vous m aider sur le nombre à retirer, de même que pour adapter les motifs. Merci beaucoup !

03.07.2023 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Alexandra, avez-vous bien le bon échantillon de 22 brides x 12 rangs = 10 x 10 cm? Si tel est le cas alors à la fin du 1er rang vous devriez bien avoir 158 brides = environ72 cm (soit 36 cm quand on plie en double) notez qu'au tout début, on va monter plus de mailles en l'air qu'on a besoin de brides pour que le rang de montage reste souple. Bon crochet!

03.07.2023 - 11:16

country flag Ingrid Loggen wrote:

Ik wil aan de rok begonnen maar gaat bij 1e toer al mis, Ik moet 232 steken opzetten maar dan wordt de omvang super groot, snap de afmeting niet?

22.05.2023 - 13:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ingrid,

Heb je een proeflapje gemaakt en kwam deze overeen met de stekenverhouding in het patroon? Pas eventueel de naalddikte aan zodat je de juiste stekenverhouding krijgt. Wanneer de stekenverhouding klopt, kun je gerust beginnen met het aantal op te zetten lossen. Je moet eerst een aantal toeren haken voordat het model er een beetje in komt. Een ketting van lossen is niet echt een goede richtlijn.

23.05.2023 - 09:40

country flag Unni Hansen wrote:

Jeg holder på med A2. Er ferdig med omgang 8. Da har jeg begynt å telle "begynn her" som omgang 1. Skal nå starte med omgang 9. Har avsluttet omgang 8 med fastmaske i første stav. Så skal jeg ha 4 luftmasker. Men de skal vel ikke begynne i fastmasken i omgang 8? Jeg regner med at disse 4 luftmaskene er en del av 8 luftmaskebue i mønsteret. Hvordan får jeg luftmaskene "opp i luften....?" Hvordan starter jeg på omgang 9 ??????

20.01.2023 - 10:08

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Unni. Du avslutter 8. omgang med 1 kjedemaske i 3. luftmaske på begynnelsen av omgangen. Deretter hekler du 4 luftmasker (1. ikonet på 9. omgang i diagrammet), så hekler du videre på diagrammet og når du har heklet rundt (avslutter med 4 luftmasker) hekler du 1 fastmaske (1. ikon på 10. omgang) om de 4 første luftmaskene. mvh DROPS Design

30.01.2023 - 08:19