DROPS / 158 / 32

November by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS poncho with hood and vent, worked top down in ”Eskimo”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ee-510
Yarn group E or C + C
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Length: 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23½''-24½''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''

DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
700-750-850-950-1000-1100 g color no 21, blue/violet

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' and 32'') SIZE 8 mm / US 11 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.90$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows seen from RS.

All inc are done from RS. Inc 8 sts in total on every row/round with inc.
Work until 1 st remains before st with marker, 1 YO, K 3 and 1 YO. Repeat at the remaining 3 sts with markers on row/round.
On next row K/P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

Inc as follows before 1st and 3rd marker: Work until 1 st before marker, 1 YO.
Inc as follows after 2nd and 4th marker: Work until marker, K 1, 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

The piece is worked top down. Beg with the hood. Then work upper part of poncho back and forth until vent is done. Then work in the round.

Cast on 66 sts in all sizes on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Eskimo. Work 1 ridge in GARTER ST back and forth - see explanation above! Then work as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, PATTERN A.1 (= 5 sts) over the next 60 sts, 3 edge sts in garter st. Continue back and forth the same way. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 34 cm / 13½'', work 1 ridge while AT THE SAME TIME dec 22-22-20-20-18-18 sts evenly = 44-44-46-46-48-48 sts remain. Then work 2 ridges more AT THE SAME TIME inc 8-8-9-10-8-8 sts evenly on last row from RS = 52-52-55-56-56-56 sts. Insert a marker here. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Then work as follows: 3 band sts in garter st, 6-6-7-7-7-7 sts in stockinette st, insert 1st marker in next st, 6 sts in stockinette st, insert 2nd marker in next st, 18-18-19-20-20-20 sts in stockinette st, insert 3rd marker in next st, 6 sts in stockinette st, insert 4th marker in next st, 6-6-7-7-7-7 sts in stockinette st, 3 band sts in garter st. P 1 row. Continue like this, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS beg inc on each side of sts with markers – READ INCREASE TIP 1! Repeat the same inc every other row 6-7-8-8-9-9 more times, every 4th row/round 2-2-2-3-3-4 times and every 6th round 6-6-6-6-6-7 times = 172-180-191-200-208-224 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-12-12-13-13-13 cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/8", work piece in the round as follows: 3 sts in GARTER ST in the round on circular needle – see explanation above, stockinette st until 3 sts remain, 3 sts in garter st. Continue like this until 2 ridges have been worked over the 6 sts at the vent. Then work piece in stockinette st over all sts. Continue with 6 rounds in stockinette st. Now inc 0-1-1-1-1-0 sts at every marker – Read INCREASE TIP 2. (= 0-4-4-4-4-0 inc on round) = 172-184-195-204-212-224 sts When piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm / 17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21½", inc 3-1-0-1-3-1 st evenly on round = 175-185-195-205-215-225 sts. Continue with pattern A.1 over all sts on round. Continue to work pattern for 10 cm / 4''. Work 2 ridges and loosely bind off.

Fold hood and sew cast-on edge neatly tog st by st. Fasten off.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 158-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (27)

Elena 01.12.2019 - 23:06:

Per la tg M "3 m per il bordo davanti a punto legaccio, 6m a maglia rasata, inserire il 1° segno nella m successiva, 6 m a maglia rasata, inserire il 2° segno nella m successiva, 18m a maglia rasata, inserire il 3° segno nella m successiva, 6 m a maglia rasata, inserire il 4° segno nella m successiva, 6 m a maglia rasata, 3 m per il bordo davanti a punto legaccio "=48m totale Ma devono essere 52! dove sta l'errore?

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 09:45:

Buongiorno Elena. Nel conteggio delle maglie, vanno contate anche le quattro maglie con i segni. Queste maglie vengono lavorate anch’esse a maglia rasata. Buon lavoro!

Rosa Griselda Gutiérrez Villa 18.09.2018 - 20:02:

Patrón No. ee-51 hola! Estoy tratando de hacer esta capa en talla s pero no entiendo. Tengo 66 pts. Las disminuciones cuando explican que son 22,22,20(2pts menos)20,18,18(4 pts menos )hasta ahí creo entender. Pero después dan cifras de 44,44,46,48,48? De dónde salen estos puntos. Gracias! Saludos desde México

DROPS Design 29.09.2018 kl. 20:06:

Hola Rosa, como el patrón es sólo uno para todas las tallas, los números seguidos de guiones son el correspondiente a cada talla: 22 (talla S)- 22 (talla M)- 20 (talla L) - 20 (talla XL) etc. Por lo tanto, a los 66 puntos iniciales se le disminuyen 22 puntos en el caso de la talla S y por lo tanto quedan 66-22 = 44 puntos en la talla S.

Anna Sofie 20.12.2017 - 12:01:

Är det så att utsidorna på huvan ska läggas mot varandra, och sedan sys ihop på insidan så att sömmen hamnar mitt över hjässan och ner i nacken? Verkar vara enda sättet, tycker jag :-)

DROPS Design 20.12.2017 kl. 14:26:

Hej Anna Sofie, Ja precis, men sy gärna från rätsidan :)

Anna Sofie 19.12.2017 - 11:08:

Hej, Nu är ponchon nästan färdig, och den blir jättefin :-) Men jag får inte ihop detta med att vika och sy huvan riktigt - vilken del ska vikas mot vilken, och hur ska det sys ihop? Ska "startkanten" vara framkant på huvan, eller ska den vikas in på något sätt? Tack på förhand!

DROPS Design 20.12.2017 kl. 11:19:

Hej Anna, de 66 maskor du la upp, lägger du ihop och syr ihop. Det blir en söm från pannan mitt fram och till mitt bak. Lycka till!

Sandrine 24.11.2017 - 16:07:

Bonjour après les 34 premiers cm tricotés en suivant A1, doit on tricoter en jersey pour les diminutions et augmentations des rangs suivants?

DROPS Design 27.11.2017 kl. 08:50:

Bonjour Sandrine, à 34 cm on tricote 1 côte mousse (= 2 rangs endroit) en diminuant 22-18 m puis 2 côtes mousse (= 4 rangs endroit) en diminuant 8-10 m au dernier rang. On continue ensuite en jersey avec 3 m point mousse de chaque côté en mettant les marqueurs. Bon tricot!

Anna Sofie 16.11.2017 - 12:01:

Hej! Undrar lite över detta: "...56-56 m. Sätt en markör här! ARB M..." Sedan står det lite senare: "...7 m slätst, sätt 1:a markören i nästa m...", och som jag har förstått det ska det vara totalt 4 markörer. Så var ska man sätta först nämnda markör, om den ens ska vara där alls?

DROPS Design 16.11.2017 kl. 17:27:

Hej, den första markören ska sättas i arb eftersom alla mått ska tas från denna. Det ökas alltså inte vid denna första markör.

Elisabeth 23.10.2017 - 22:12:

Bonsoir, Ce poncho plaît beaucoup à ma petite fille ; hélas, je ne peux plus tricoter de si gros fils. Sachant qu'elle a seulement 12 ans et mesure 1,50m, serait-il possible de le réaliser avec un fil plus fin ( aiguilles N°5 maximun) sans que le re-calcul de augmentations soit un casse-tête ? Merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 24.10.2017 kl. 08:40:

Bonjour Elisabeth, ce poncho a été écrit pour une tension de 11 m x 15 rangs = 10 x 10 cm, si vous utilisez un fil plus fin, vous devrez tout recalculer en fonction de votre propre échantillon. Vous pouvez également vous inspirer d'un modèle analogue et l'ajuster comme vous le souhaitez. Bon tricot!

Le Guellec Corinne 25.02.2017 - 18:30:

Bonjour , Je suis arrivée au niveau des augmentations après la capuche ,sur l'endroit comme indiqué ,placé mes marqueurs au rang suivant (sur l'envers donc ) et j'ai du mal avec les explications suivantes : tricoter 1 rang envers (sur l'endroit ?) et "continuer ainsi au rang suivant sur l'endroit ".Dois-je commencer à tricoter en jersey et/ ou à quel moment ?Merci d'avance pour les explications .

DROPS Design 27.02.2017 kl. 11:38:

Bonjour Mme Le Guellec, le rang où vous placez les marqueurs se tricote sur l'endroit, au rang suivant, tricotez 1 rang sur l'envers avec les 3 m point mousse de chaque côté, augmentez ensuite au rang suivant sur l'endroit, et, continuez en rond à la taille indiquée pour votre taille. Bon tricot!

Solveig 16.01.2017 - 18:37:

Ja, men når du strikker hetten, så har du oppleggsiden nederst. så strikkes hetten oppover, med et mønster på den ene siden og et annet mønster på den andre siden. Når jeg kommer til toppen, fortsetter å strikke jeg ponchoen fra øverst på hetten slik den er til meg og nedover. så skal vel hetten sys sammen på midten? Og da har jeg mønster på den ene siden av hetten og ikke på den andre????

DROPS Design 17.01.2017 kl. 14:22:

Hej Solveig. Nej, du strikker oppefra og ned. Du syr hetten sammen i oplegspinden. Retten af mönstret kommer paa ydersiden og den anden side (vrangen), skal komme paa indersiden.

Solveig H Bjerkvold 15.01.2017 - 12:25:

Hei. Jeg har nå strikket hetta og begynte på veien nedover på ponchoen, og da begynner jeg å lure. På hetta har jeg nå mønster på den ene siden og ikke den andre??? Jeg har strikket helt som oppskriften sier, for sømmen skal vel være øverst på hetta??

DROPS Design 16.01.2017 kl. 15:17:

Hej Solveig. Det lyder meget underligt, du burde have mönstret over alle masker, men husk at du har en ret og en vrangside og retsiden skal vende udaf.

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