DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 158-41
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-150
Yarn group C or A + A
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HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm / 21''/22'' - 22½''/23½''
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150-150 g color no 4311, gray/purple

NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Measurements: Circumference: 75-81 cm / 29½"-32" Height: 38-40 cm / 15"-15 3/4"
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
250-300 g color no 4311, gray/purple

MITTENS:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
100-100 g color no 4311, gray/purple

DROPS HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7 - or size needed to get 16 dc x 9 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm), or 3 x diagram A.2 = width 9.5 cm / 3 3/4".

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2 – work 1st row from RS.

CROCHET INFO 1:
Replace first hdc at beg of every hdc row with 2 ch.

CROCHET INFO 2:
At beg of every sc round, replace first sc with 1 ch and finish every round with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round with ch 3, finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

DECREASE TIP 1:
Work 2 sc into 1 sc: Work 1 sc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next sc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.

DECREASE TIP 2:
Work 2 dc into 1 dc: Work 1 dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 strands on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.
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HAT:
Work in the round but beg with a ribbon worked sideways at the bottom.
RIBBON:
Work 8 ch on hook size 4.5 mm/7 with Nepal, and work 1st row as follows: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook (= 2 hdc), 1 hdc in each of the next 5 ch = 7 hdc, turn piece. READ CROCHET INFO 1. Then work hdc back and forth but work every hdc in back loop of st (i.e. not through whole st) = rib texture. Continue until piece measures approx. 49-53 cm / 19 1/4"-21", cut the yarn and sew tog short sides to form a ring – ribbon measures approx. 4 cm / 1½'' in width. Fasten the strand.
CROWN:
Now work around the edge on ribbon.
Work * 1 sc in each of the next 3 rows, work 2 sc in next row *, repeat from *-* the entire round - READ CROCHET INFO 2. = approx. 83-90 sc - then work 1 round with sc AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 80-85 sc - READ DECREASE TIP 1!
Now work according to 1st round in diagram as follows: A.1, A.2 16-17 times in total in width. Repeat row 2 and 3 of diagram 2 times vertically, then piece will measure approx. 11 cm / 4½'' incl ribbon. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Continue to work in dc, AT THE SAME TIME dec as follows: READ DECREASE TIP 2! Dec 8-9 sts evenly = 72-76 dc. On next round, dec 8-7 dc evenly. Repeat dec every other round 4 times in total = 40-48 dc. Then dec 8-6 dc evenly every round 1-2 times in total = 32-36 dc. Now work sc with dec as follows: READ DECREASE TIP 1 – Work 2 and 2 sc tog = 16-18 sc. Repeat dec on next round = 8-9 sc. Cut the yarn, baste it up and down through sts, pull yarn to tighten and fasten tightly. The hat measures approx. 24-25 cm / 9½"-9 3/4" vertically.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked in the round. Crochet 144-156 ch on hook size 4.5 mm/7 with Nepal and form 1 ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch.
ROUND 1: READ CROCHET INFO 2 - Work 1 dc in each of the first ch 5, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* = 120-130 dc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 dc in every dc.
Now work according to 1st round in diagram as follows: A.1, A.2 24-26 times in total in width. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Repeat row 2 and 3 of diagram vertically until piece measures approx. 36-38 cm / 14 1/4"-15'' – adjust after 1 whole repetition vertically - then continue as follows: 1 round with 1 dc in every sc, then 1 round with 1 dc in every dc. Fasten off.
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MITTEN:
Crochet 30-35 LOOSE ch on hook size 4.5 mm with Nepal and form 1 ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Work cuff according to diagram's 1st round as follows: A.1, A.2 6-7 times in total in width. Work diagram 1 time vertically, then work 1 round with 1 sc in every sc - READ CROCHET INFO 2 = 30-35 sc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Then work dc in the round with 1 dc in every st AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 27-30 dc by working 2 dc tog evenly – READ DECREASE TIP 2 - AT THE SAME TIME when 3 rounds have been worked with dc, inc 1 dc for thumb on each side of 1st st at beg of round - inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same dc. Repeat inc on each side of this st every round 4-5 times in total = 35-40 dc on round (thumb sts = 9-11 dc). Work next round as follows: Work 1 sl st in each of the first 6-7 dc at beg of round, 3 ch (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc in each of the next 25-28 dc, 1 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round = 26-29 dc and 1 ch on round. On next round, work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc in ch at end of round = 27-30 dc. Then work dc in the round until mitten measures 18-21 cm / 7"-8 1/4" from division at cuff (try the mitten on, approx. 3 cm / 1'' remain until finished measurements).
Continue to work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 1 dc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME work every 2nd and 3rd dc tog = 18-20 dc.
ROUND 2: Work 1 dc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME work 2 and 2 dc tog = 9-10 dc.
ROUND 3: Work 1 sc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME work 2 and 2 sc tog. Cut the yarn, baste it up and down through sts, pull yarn to tighten and fasten tightly.

THUMB:
ROUND 1: Work 1 sl st in the first of the 9-11 thumb sts, 3 ch (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc in each of the 8-10 dc, then work 6 dc behind thumb AT THE SAME TIME work these 6 dc tog 2 by 2 – see explanation above = 12-14 dc.
ROUND 2 + 3: Work 1 dc in every dc = 12-14 dc.
Try the mitten on, approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' remains until finished thumb measurements. Work 1 more round with 1 dc in every dc if needed.
NEXT ROUND: Work 1 dc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME work 2 and 2 dc tog = 6-7 dc.
LAST ROUND: Work 1 sc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME work 2 and 2 sc tog.
Cut the yarn, baste it up and down through sts, pull yarn to tighten and fasten tightly.

Work another mitten but make sure to work thumb inc on each side of last st on round (instead of 1st st on round).

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 20.10.2016
Correction CROWN (HAT) and NECK WARMER: Repeat row 2 and 3 of diagram

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sc
symbols = 4 tr into 1 tr as follows:
Work 1 tr but wait with last YO
and pull through, work 1 tr in each of
the next 3 sc the same way, pull
yarn through all 5 sts on hook.
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = sl st (at end of round)
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Pernilla Dalgärde wrote:

Jag får inte diagrammet till halsvärmaren att stämma. Mellan de båda enkla dubbelstolparna får jag på varv 2 en grupp av 4 dubbelstolpar som tar 4 fasta maskor i anspråk från föregående varv. På nästa varv ger stolpgruppen 1 maska och så är det 4 luftmaskor mellan de enkla dubbelstolparna. Det blir 5 maskor mellan de enkla dubbelstolparna på varv 3, jämfört med 4 på varv 2. Då blir arbetet bredare och bredare. Antalet borde vara detsamma?

14.01.2020 - 20:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Pernilla, du har 5 fm på första varvet och igen 5 fm på tredje varvet enligt diagrammet. Lycka till :)

11.02.2020 - 09:22

country flag Anita wrote:

The set is beautiful; however, the pattern for the hat is poorly written and very confusing, even for a very experienced advanced crocheter.

16.11.2018 - 20:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anita, we are sorry to hear you have had troubles with this pattern - There maybe as many ways to write patterns than there are crocheters – you are welcome to ask your questions here, or for any individual assistance reading our patterns and diagrams you are welcome to contact the store where you bought your yarn (even per mail or telephone). Happy crocheting!

19.11.2018 - 09:54

country flag Janet wrote:

I really wish you had a video on how to do the diagram, it's very confusing.

14.10.2016 - 21:31

country flag LaurieB wrote:

Bonjour, avec l'aide d'une amie, je suis parvenue à trouver mon erreur qui faisait que je ne comprenais pas le point. Je confondais DB (double bride) avec db (demi-bride)! Je suis encore débutante mais j'aime beaucoup les patrons que vous offrez! Merci et bonne fin de semaine!

12.02.2016 - 04:56

country flag LaurieB wrote:

Bonjour! Je n'arrive pas à faire le point de fantaisie de Tell Me by DROPS Design Bonnet, tour de cou et moufles DROPS avec motif ajouré, en “Nepal”. Je ne comprends pas le diagramme. Y a-t-il une vidéo explicative? Sinon, j'ai besoin d'explications claires et faciles à comprendre, je suis encore débutante. Merci beaucoup pour votre aide.

10.02.2016 - 22:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour LaurieB, il n'y a pas encore de vidéo pour ce motif, il se crochète ainsi - A.1 montre comment commencer les tours (1 ml pour 1 rang de ms, 4 ml pour 1 rang de B) et les terminer (1 mc dans la 1ère/4ème ml du début du tour). Dans A.2, tour 1: 1ms dans chaque m. Tour 2: *2 ml (on aura 6 ml au début du tour), 4DB écoulées ens, 2 ml, 1 DB* répétez de *-*. Au 3ème tour: *2 ms dans chacun des 2 arceaux de 2 ml, 1 ms dans la DB*. Bon crochet!

11.02.2016 - 10:34

Nina wrote:

HI - I battled to figure out the diagram at first, but I stuck at it and figured it out. R 1: ch1 and then sc in every stitch around. R 2: ch4 (TR), *ch 2, 4TR (following explanation above diagram), ch2, TR*, repeat from *-* until end of row. ss into beginning chain remembering to leave 2 ch gap. R 3: ch1 and *2 sc in ch2 space from previous round, 2sc into next ch2 space, sc into TR*, repeat from *-* until end of round and join with ss to beginning chain.

03.02.2016 - 21:32

country flag Paula wrote:

I really like this hat, but can't do the diagram. Could you put it in words. I've got the ribbon finished but can't continue.

19.01.2016 - 19:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Paula, there is only a diagram version to this pattern, start reading diagram from the bottom corner on the right side and read every row from the right towards the left (= in the round = from RS). You will find text to each st/group of st just above diagram. And remember your DROPS store may provide you any furter personnal assistance. Happy crocheting!

20.01.2016 - 11:45

country flag Gail Slaughter wrote:

Sorry I meant it Did come 4x4

15.12.2015 - 20:46

country flag Gail Slaughter wrote:

Thank youbso much for your response I did rhe gauge and it didncome to 4x4. So I attempted to do the ribbon again same result I can't figure out what it is I'm not getting Is there any way you can help me? Video or anything? 1sc in first 3 rows 2 sc next etc: I have tried just the ribbed rows facing me then I tried those front and back. What am I not getting Please help! Gail

15.12.2015 - 20:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Slaughter, to work 1 sc in each of the next 3 rows, 2 sc in the next row, you need to have worked a total of 21 rows approx. with hdc for the ribbon - adjust number of sc worked around if necessary to get approx. 83 sc at the end of the round, then adjust to 80 sc on next row. Happy crocheting!

16.12.2015 - 09:25

country flag Gail Slaughter wrote:

First I love this pattern but I am having a hard time with the ribbon! I did the 19 1/4 inches but when I attempt to do the 1sc in 3 rows and 2sc in next I don't get 83-90 I get much less!I then used a smaller and counted the rows to at least get the 83 but nw the ribbon is way too large PLEASE HELP! I wanted to have it ready dor Christmas. Thanking You in advance. Gail

07.12.2015 - 06:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Slaughter, remember to check your tension, you should get 16 dc x 9 rows = 4"x4" so that 83 sc = approx. 21". Happy crocheting!

07.12.2015 - 11:44