DROPS Baby / 25 / 25

First Impression Booties by DROPS Design

Knitted baby booties in garter st in DROPS BabyMerino. Size premature - 4 years.

Tags: slippers,
  • First Impression Booties / DROPS Baby 25-25 - Knitted baby booties in garter st in DROPS BabyMerino. Size premature - 4 years.
  • First Impression Booties / DROPS Baby 25-25 - Knitted baby booties in garter st in DROPS BabyMerino. Size premature - 4 years.
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-060-by
Yarn group A
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Size: (premature) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
To fit foot length: (8) 9-10-11-12 (14-16) cm / (3”) 3½”-4’’-4½’’-4¾’’ (5½’’-6¼’’)

Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in color no 02, off white
50 g for all sizes in color no 28, light mint

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in garter st = 4’’ x 4’’ (10 x 10 cm).

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100% Wool
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DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

STRIPES:
* 2 ridges (= K 4 rows) in off white, 1 ridge (= K 2 rows) in light mint *, repeat from *-*.
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BOOTIE:
The bootie is worked back and forth from mid back.
Cast on (44) 44-48-52-52 (56-56) sts on needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with light mint. P 1 row from WS, switch to off white and work rib as follows from RS: K 1, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, finish with P 2 and K 1.
Continue rib like this for (5) 5-5-6-6 (7-8) cm / (2”) 2”-2”-2½”-2½” (2¾”-3”) – make sure that next row is worked from WS.
P 1 row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 14 sts evenly in all sizes = (30) 30-34-38-38 (42-42) sts.
On next row work eyelet holes as follows from RS: K 1, * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1. P 1 row from WS, cut the yarn.
Now slip the outermost (11) 11-12-13-13 (15-15) sts in each side on 1 stitch holder.
Work (3) 3½-4-4½-5½ (6½-8) cm / (1”) 1 ¼”-1½”-1¾”-2¼” (2½”-3”) in GARTER ST – see explanation above, over the middle (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) sts while AT THE SAME TIME work STRIPES – see explanation above (finish stripes after 1 ridge in light mint), cut the yarn.
Work next row as follows from RS with off white:
work sts from stitch holder in one side, pick up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) sts along the side on mid piece, work the (8) 8-10-12-12 (12-12) sts on needle (= front), pick up (7) 9-10-11-13 (16-21) sts along the other side on middle piece and work sts from the last stitch holder = (44) 48-54-60-64 (74-84) sts on needle.
Work (2½) 3-3-4-5 (5-5) cm / (7/8”) 1”-1”-1½”-2” (2”-2”) in garter st over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME working STRIPES (beg with off white).
AT THE SAME TIME after (1) 1½-1½-2-3 (3-3) cm / (3/8”) ½”-½”-3/4”-1” (1”-1”) dec on every other row (i.e. on every row from RS) as follows until finished measurements:
Dec 1 st at beg and end of row by K 2 sts tog inside 1 edge st. In addition K 2 sts tog on each side of the 2 middle sts on row (= 4 sts dec on every other row) = approx. (32) 36-42-48-52 (62-72) sts remain on row.
Bind off and sew tog mid under foot and continue up mid back in outer loops of edge sts to avoid a chunky seam.
Knit another bootie the same way.

TIES:
Cut 3 lengths light mint yarn of approx. 1 meter/1.2 yds. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the strands double so that they twine. Make a knot at each end.
Baste the yarn up and down through row with eyelet holes on bootie - start and finish mid front on bootie.
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Synnøvea Lien 16.04.2021 - 00:47:

Fin oppskrift, dette er faktisk en oppskrift jeg lærte på skolen da jeg var 14 år, nå er jeg 72 å synes den er nesten finere nå en da. Nå strikker jeg til oldebarn, da var det pensum på skolen. Hilsen Synnøve

country flag Hanneke 25.03.2021 - 09:50:

Wat kan de reden zijn dat ik bijna de dubbele hoeveelheid naalden nodig heb om aan 10cm ribbelsteek te komen? Ik heb tot nu toe 2 proeflapjes gemaakt van 15x15 en heb ze gewassen voordat ik de steekverhouding heb bepaald. Ik gebruik ook drops baby merino zoals in het patroon. Ik kom op 24 steken x 55 naalden met 3,5mm en op 29,5 steken x 56 naalden met 3,0mm.

user icon DROPS Design 08.04.2021 kl. 09:31:

Dag Hanneke,

Ik denk dat de aangegeven stekenverhouding in de hoogte voor tricotsteek is, dus dat er een foutje in het patroon staat. In dit geval zou ik dan naald nr 3,5 aanhouden.

country flag Carmen 11.06.2020 - 05:29:

Cuantos surcos hay que tejer desde que se toman los puntos del costado del empeine hasta rematar?

user icon DROPS Design 14.06.2020 kl. 23:41:

Hola Carmen. Como cada tejedora tiene una tensión del tejido diferente, indicaremos cuantos cm hay que trabajar en cada parte y no cuantas filas/vueltas. Tienes un video tutorial completo bajo el patrón que te puede ayudar con la labor.

country flag Jeanette Bøllingtoft 31.10.2019 - 00:28:

Jeg vil helst strikke på p 4 eller 4 1/2. Hvad er maskeantal i 2 tråde baby merino ? eller merino extra fine ? eller merino cotton ?

user icon DROPS Design 31.10.2019 kl. 09:37:

Hej Jeanette, hvis du søger på tøfler - baby - garngruppe B så får du små søde babytøfler op i DROPS Merino Extra Fine :)

country flag Ann Charlotte 05.02.2017 - 09:06:

Veldig enkel og fin oppskrift! ☺ Veldig bra med de filmene som viser fram de forskjellige stegene om man er litt usikker. Ungen i huset her ble veldig fornøyd med disse tøflene og gode å ha på bena. Anbefales å prøvd 👍

country flag Elisa 29.09.2016 - 03:13:

Hej! Inden jeg skal sætte masker på tråd, står der at jeg skal klippe tråden (den jeg har strikket med), hvordan undgår jeg at det går op? Når jeg så skal fortætte med de 8 midterste masker, hvordan starter jeg så op igen efter at jeg har klippet tråden? Jeg håber I kan hjælpe mig. vh Elisa

user icon DROPS Design 13.10.2016 kl. 16:07:

Hej Elisa. Hvis du lader et stykke traad haenge (10-15 cm) naar du klipper gaar det ikke op. Du starter forfra igen med en ny traad, og starter med at strikke som för. Lad ogsaa her et godt stykke traad haenge som du kan haefte senere.

country flag Vicenta 13.03.2016 - 22:22:

Estos peucos son preciosos pero estoy atascada después de tejer las 7 líneas centrales en punto musgo, a dos colores he visto el video de levantar puntos en el lateral pero no entiendo el paso siguiente colocar los 11 puntos en espera

user icon DROPS Design 16.03.2016 kl. 09:36:

Hola Vicenta, Habíamos pasado 11 pts de cada lado a 2 agujas auxiliares. Después de terminar la parte central, comenzamos con la parte de la planta del pie. Empezamos en uno de los lados trabajando los pts desde una de las agujas auxiliares, después levantamos pts de uno de los lados de la pieza central (empeine), trabajamos los pts centrales del empeine, levantamos pts del otro lado del empeine, trabajamos los pts desde la segunda aguja auxiliar.

country flag Hannie V Ballegooy 22.01.2016 - 23:46:

Hoe nemen jullie alle steken weer op de naald bij de slofjes doe je dat met een rond breinaald ?

user icon DROPS Design 26.01.2016 kl. 15:13:

Hoi Hannie. Je zou ze kunnen opnemen met de ene naald (het rekt een beetje de eerste paar naalden), vind je het onprettig, dan kan je ze verdelen over 3 naalden zonder knop of een rondbreinaald.

country flag Lourdes 18.09.2015 - 22:28:

Ha estat un treball molt bonic. És un bon disseny . No té complicació.

country flag Silvia 21.04.2015 - 14:28:

Hola, he mirado el video y se ve perfectamente como se cojen los puntos del lateral , es estupendo, pero es imposible cojer en la aguja los puntos que habia separado, cojer los puntos de un lateral, los puntos centrales , cojer puntos del otro lateral y los otros puntos que estaban separados en otra aguja. Estaria muy agradecida si me explican como hacerlo. Gracias.

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