DROPS / 155 / 27

No One But Me by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with round yoke in ”Kid-Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ks-089
Yarn group A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-114-126-138 cm / 34 5/8''-37¾''-41''-45''-49½''-54¼''
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''

DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
75-100-100-100-125-125 g color no 03, light pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm / US 4 - or size needed to get 23 sts x 30 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 3 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows 3 sts before marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows 1 st after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 5 sts in garter st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso = 1 st dec.
Dec as follows 2 sts before 5 sts in garter st: K 2 tog = 1 st dec.

All dec are done from RS!
Dec alternately before and after markers.
Dec as follows before marker: Beg 2 sts before marker. Dec 1 st by K 2 sts tog.
Dec as follows after marker: K 2 tog.

Inc 1 st by getting yarn between 2 sts from previous row - K this st twisted, i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front to avoid holes.

Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Measure from beg of yoke and dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 2, 9 and 16 cm / 3/4", 3½" and 6 1/4"
SIZE M: 1, 9 and 17 cm / 3/8", 3½" and 6 3/4"
SIZE L: 2, 10 and 18 cm / 3/4'', 4" and 7"
SIZE XL: 1, 10 and 19 cm / 3/8'', 4" and 7½"
SIZE XXL: 2, 11 and 20 cm / 3/4'', 4 3/8" and 8"
SIZE XXXL: 1, 11 and 21 cm / 3/8'', 4 3/8" and 8 1/4"

Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 218-238-256-276-304-332 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Kid-Silk. Work ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above – back and forth until piece measures 3 cm / 1''. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and continue with stockinette st with 12 band sts in garter st in each side of piece. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue like this back and forth AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6 cm / 2½'', insert 1 marker in each side of piece as follows: 12 band sts in garter st, 46-51-55-60-67-74 sts in stockinette st, insert a marker here, 102-112-122-132-146-160 sts in stockinette st, insert a marker here, 46-51-55-60-67-74 sts in stockinette st, 12 band sts in garter st. On next row from RS, dec 1 st on each side of both markers - READ DECREASE TIP 1. Repeat the same dec every cm / ½'' 4 more times (= 5 times in total) = 198-218-236-256-284-312 sts. Then when piece measures 16-16-16-17-17-17 cm / 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4", inc 1 st on each side of marker in each side – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat the same inc approx. every 3-3½-3½-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1½"-1½"-1½" 4 more times (= 5 times in total) = 218-238-256-276-304-332 sts.
When piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm / 11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8''-13¾'', work in garter st over 20 sts in each side (i.e. work in garter st over 10 sts on each side of markers in each side). When piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm / 12¼''-12½''-13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼'', work as follows from RS: 12 band sts in garter st, * stockinette st until 10 sts remain before marker in the side, 5 sts in garter st, bind off 10 sts for armhole (i.e. 5 sts on each side of marker), 5 sts in garter st *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. Work the rest of row. There are now 92-102-112-122-136-150 sts on back piece and 53-58-62-67-74-81 sts (includes band sts) on each front piece.
Work 1 row over left front piece from WS. Turn piece and work as follows over left front piece: 5 sts in garter st (towards armhole), dec 1 st – READ DECREASE TIP 2 - stockinette st and garter st over the 12 band sts as before. Continue like this until 4 sts have been dec in total inside the 5 sts in garter st towards armhole = 49-54-58-63-70-77 sts. Then work back piece the same way but with 5 sts in garter st and 4 dec towards armholes in each side = 84-94-104-114-128-142 sts.
Work right front piece the same way as left front piece but reversed = 49-54-58-63-70-77 sts.

Work yoke in garter st. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work as follows from RS: Work over all sts on right front piece, loosely cast on 86-92-96-100-106-110 new sts over right armhole, work over all sts on back piece, loosely cast on 86-92-96-100-106-110 new sts over left armhole and work the rest of row = 354-386-412-440-480-516 sts. On next row insert 8 markers in the piece as follows: 49-55-58-63-71-78 sts in garter st, insert a marker here, 26-27-28-29-31-32 sts in garter st, insert a marker here, 33-36-38-39-42-45 sts in garter st, insert a marker here, 26-27-28-29-31-32 sts in garter st, insert a marker here, 86-96-108-120-130-142 sts in garter st, insert a marker here, 26-27-28-29-31-32 sts in garter st, insert a marker here, 33-36-38-39-42-45 sts in garter st, insert a marker here, 26-27-28-29-31-32 sts in garter st, insert a marker here, 49-55-58-63-71-78 sts in garter st. Then on next row from RS beg dec – READ DECREASE TIP 3, AT THE SAME TIME dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band – see explanation above. Dec as follows: 1 st every 1 cm / ½'' 9-10-10-11-11-12 times, then dec every 4th row 7-5-6-4-2-0 times and every other row 1-6-7-11-17-21 times. When all dec are done, 218-218-228-232-240-252 sts remain on needle. On next row from RS, dec 42-38-42-42-42-52 sts evenly on needle = 176-180-186-190-198-200 sts. Loosely bind off with K from WS when piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾'' in total.

Fasten off and sew buttons on to left front piece.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 155-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (32)

Renata 19.12.2019 - 13:42:

Dzień dobry, chciałabym zrobić ten model z włóczki Lace ale zastanawiam się czy nie jest ona zbyt wiotka, "lejąca się"? Nie znalazłam wzoru na sweter z Lace stąd moje wątpliwości.

DROPS Design 30.12.2019 kl. 00:50:

Witaj Renato! Lace jest bardzo cienka, idealna na szale, które są wykonywane na nieco grubszych drutach, wtedy wzór ażurowy jest dobrze widoczny po zblokowaniu. Na sweterek możesz jej użyć, będzie bardzo cienki, przezroczysty i delikatny. Ja bym jej użyła w połączeniu z włóczką DROPS Kid-Silk, wtedy sweterek nie będzie prześwitujący. Powodzenia!

Francesca 13.11.2019 - 11:23:

Buongiorno, sto eseguendo la taglia M di questo modello; se volessi aggiungerci le maniche lunghe, come dovrei regolarmi? Grazie, saluti cordiali. Francesca

DROPS Design 19.11.2019 kl. 22:50:

Buonasera Francesca, per un aiuto così personalizzato può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Jacqueline 22.07.2018 - 13:42:

Bonjour, J\'aimerai une explication pour poursuivre mon tricot, je suis arrivée à : \"Tricoter ensuite le dos de la même façon mais avec 5 m point mousse et 4 diminutions de chaque côté (emmanchures) = 84-94-104-114-128-142 m.\" Si je comprend bien je dois couper le fil après avoir tricoter les 4 diminutions du côté gauche, pour poursuivre les diminutions du dos, et recouper le fil de nouveau pour reprendre le côté droit .

DROPS Design 23.07.2018 kl. 08:07:

Bonjour Jacqueline, tout à fait, après avoir rabattu les mailles des emmanchures, vous tricotez quelques rangs sur les mailles du devant gauche seulement, puis coupez le fil et tricotez le dos en diminuant de chaque côté (= 8 m diminuées),coupez le fil et tricotez le devant droit (= 4 diminutions). À la fin du devant droit, ne coupez pas le fil, vous continuez l'empiècement à partir du devant droit (sur l'endroit). Bon tricot!

Frøydis Gustavsen 27.06.2018 - 15:12:

Hei Jeg holder på å strikke modell 155-27 og skal strikke bærestykke. Det er uklart hvordan fellingen skal skje, så jeg ber om en forklaring på dette. Spes gjelder det Det felles slik: 1m for hver 1, cm 10 x etc. Hvordan skal dette forstås?? Hvor skal det felles ? Har satt 8 Merketråder men de er det angitt hvordan fellingen skal vær. B er om svar snarest.

DROPS Design 29.06.2018 kl. 06:33:

Hei Frøydis, Hvis du leser felletips-3 så forklarer det hvordan du skal felle til raglan ved hvert merke og du feller vekselvis før og etter merket annenhver gang. Da feller du 1 maske hver cm 9-10-10-11-11-12 ganger ved hvert merke, hver 4. pinne 7-5-6-4-2-0 ganger og deretter hver 2. pinne 1-6-7-11-17-21 ganger. Håper dette hjelper of god fornøyelse!

Valeria 14.05.2018 - 16:41:

Hallo, ik heb nu gebreid tot dit punt in instructie “Brei 1 nld over het linkervoorpand aan de verkeerde kant. Keer het werk en brei als volgt over het linkervoorpand”. Moet ik nu andere naalden gebruiken en apart linkervoorpand breien. Daarna draad losknippen en achterland breien, draad los knippen en rechtervoorpand apart breien?

DROPS Design 14.05.2018 kl. 18:51:

Hallo Valeria, Dat zou kunnen, maar het werkt prettiger om de steken die je niet breit gewoon op de naald te laten zitten, dus je hoeft er geen andere naald bij te pakken om het linker voorpand te breien. De steken van het acherpand en het rechter voorpand kun je dus gewoon op de naald latern terwijl je het linker voorpand breit.

Alessandra 16.10.2016 - 18:00:

Sto eseguendo appunto una taglia M e la mia perplessità riguarda appunto le maglie da avviare per le maniche nell'esecuzione dello sprone. 92 maglie sono tantissime!! Leggendo gli altri commenti mi è venuto il dubbio. È forse un errore? Buona serata 🌆

DROPS Design 17.10.2016 kl. 13:51:

Buongiorno Alessandra. Il modello è pensato per avere un’apertura comoda intorno alle braccia. Se preferisce un’apertura più stretta è sufficiente che avvii un numero inferiore di maglie per le maniche. Buon lavoro!

Alessandra 16.10.2016 - 13:55:

Salve, Mi potreste gentilmente dire che taglia indossa la modella? Grazie mille 😊

DROPS Design 16.10.2016 kl. 14:24:

Buongiorno Alessandra. Le nostre modelle indossano generalmente la taglia M. Buon lavoro!

Anna Valueva 12.04.2016 - 16:07:

Hello, I can't find any size guide on your website. My bust is 100 sm. Should I knit size XL?

DROPS Design 12.04.2016 kl. 16:26:

Dear Mrs Valueva, you will find at the end of the pattern a measurement chart with all measurements in cm, taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

Lily 09.10.2015 - 19:25:

Ich habe die Jacke in der Größe S genau nach den Anleitungen gerade fertig gemacht und ich muss schreiben, dass die Strickanleitungen für die Passe falsch sind. Ich habe breite Schulter aber die Passe fällt einfach runter - ist zu groß. Ich würde sagen statt 86, 70 neue M über dem rechten Armausschnitt (und nicht locker, sondern fest) anschlagen.

Ritva Koskikallio 26.04.2015 - 11:39:

Hei, minulle on epäselvää malli nro 155-27 ohjeessa kaarroke kavennukset. Koko M, kavenna 1cm välein 10x 1s ja sitten joka 4 krs 5 x 1s ja vielä joka 2krs 6 x 1s. Missä kyseiset kavennukset tehdään? Liittyykö merkkilangat jotenkin kavennuksiin ja vielä kuinka pitkään kutakin kavennusta tehdään? Paljon kiitoksia, olen iloinen jos saan vastauksia! Ritva

DROPS Design 11.05.2015 kl. 13:33:

Raglankavennukset tehdään merkkilankojen molemmin puolin niin monta kertaa, kuin kyseisen koon kohdalla mainitaan. Kavennukset tehdään kavennusvinkki 3 selityksen mukaisesti: KAVENNUSVINKKI 3: Kaikki kavennukset tehdään työn oikealta puolelta! Kavenna vuorotellen ennen merkkilankoja ja merkkilankojen älkeen seuraavasti: Ennen merkkilankaa (aloita 2 s:n päässä merkkilangasta): Kavenna 1 s neulomalla 2 s oikein yhteen. Merkkilangan jälkeen: Neulo 2 s oikein yhteen.

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