DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Florentina Jacket

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern and raglan in ”Muskat” or "Belle". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 152-19
DROPS design: Pattern no r-649
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 102-118-118-130-136-148 cm / 40"-46½"-46½"-51½"-53½"-58"
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"

Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
500-500-550-600-650-700 g color no 61, light beige

Or use:
DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio
450-450-500-500-550-600 g colour no 09, beige

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24" and 32") SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24" or 32") SIZE 3.5 mm / US 4 - for edges in garter st.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 522: 5-5-5-5-6-6 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans Open Front Tops bottom up lace raglan round neck

DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.3. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc from RS.
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

RAGLAN BODY:
Dec as follows from RS:
Before marker: Beg 4 sts before marker, P 2, K 2 tog (= 1 st dec).
After marker: Beg on 1st st after marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, P 2 (= 1 st dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band (= 5 band sts). 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 17, 24, 31, 38 and 45 cm / 6¾"-9½"-12¼"-15"-17¾"
SIZE M: 19, 26, 33, 40 and 47 cm / 7½"-10¼"-13"-15¾"-18½"-
SIZE L: 21, 28, 35, 42 and 49 cm / 8¼"-11"-13¾"-16½"-19¼"
SIZE XL: 23, 30, 37, 44 and 51 cm / 9"-11¾"-14½"-17¼"-20"
SIZE XXL: 20, 27, 34, 41, 48 and 55 cm / 8"-10½"-13⅜"-16⅛"-19"-21⅝".
SIZE XXXL: 22, 29, 36, 43, 50 and 57 cm / 8¾"-11⅜"-14¼"-17"-19¾"-22½".
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 194-194-226-250-274-298 sts (includes 5 band sts in garter st in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat or "Belle". Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work as follows from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, stockinette st over the next 39-39-47-53-59-65 sts, A.1 over the next 14 sts, stockinette st over the next 78-78-94-106-118-130 sts (= back piece), A.1 over the next 14 sts, stockinette st over the next 39-39-47-53-59-65 sts, 5 band sts in garter st. Work another row the same way. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue back and forth the same way, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS inc 1 st on each side of the 2 repetitions of A.1 in the sides (= 4 sts inc on row) – READ INCREASE TIP! Beg 1 st before A.1 and inc as follows: 1 YO, K 1, A.1 over 14 sts, K 1, 1 YO (= 2 sts inc in each side).
Repeat the same inc every 2½-2½-2-2-4-3½ cm/7/8"-⅞"-¾"-¾"-1½"-1¼" 6-6-6-6-3-3 more times, 7-7-7-7-4-4 times in total = 222-222-254-278-290-314 sts on row.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-19-21-23-20-22 cm / 6¾"-7½"-8¼"-9"-8"-8¾", beg to dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above! Continue in stockinette st, pattern according to diagram A.1 and 5 band sts in garter st until piece measures 29-31-29-28-32-31 cm / 11⅜"-12¼"-11⅜"-11"-12½"-12¼". On next row from WS, bind off for armholes in each side as follows: Work until the 2 repetitions in left side and bind off the 14 sts over A.1, work all sts over back piece, and bind off 14 sts over A.1 in right side, work the rest of row and put piece aside (= 28 sts bound off in total) = 51-51-59-65-68-74 sts remain on front pieces and 92-92-108-120-126-138 sts on back piece (= 194-194-226-250-262-286 sts remain on needle).

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 133-133-147-161-154-168 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat or "Belle". Work 3 ridges in garter st - see explanation above. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Then switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work pattern A.1 (= 7 sts) over all sts on round = 19-19-21-23-22-24 repetitions on round. Continue like this with pattern until piece measures 5 cm / 2" from cast-on edge. NOTE! Stop after a round with stockinette st after a round like 3rd row in A.1 (i.e. after 4th row, 8th row, 12th row etc.), AT THE SAME TIME on this round bind off one whole repetition of A.1 on each side of marker (= 14 sts bind off in total mid under sleeve) = 119-119-133-147-140-154 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and make another sleeve.

YOKE:
Read all of the following section before continuing!
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 432-432-492-544-542-594 sts, insert 1 marker in all transitions between body and sleeves (= 4 markers). Continue as follows on 1st row from RS: 5 band sts in garter st, 46-46-54-60-63-69 sts in stockinette st (= right front piece), insert a marker here, A.2 (= 21 sts), A.1 11-11-13-15-14-16 times in total, A.3 (= 21 sts), insert a marker here, stockinette st over the next 92-92-108-120-126-138 sts (= back piece), insert a marker here, A.2 (= 21 sts), A.1 11-11-13-15-14-16 times in total, A.3 (= 21 sts), insert a marker here, 46-46-54-60-63-69 sts stockinette st (= left front piece), 5 band sts in garter st. AT THE SAME TIME beg dec for RAGLAN BODY on body – see explanation above = 4 sts dec. Repeat the same dec every row from RS 30-30-37-44-44-51 more times, 31-31-38-45-45-52 times in total, AT THE SAME TIME continue working pattern with dec for raglan on sleeves. NOTE! When A.2 and A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue with the same dec in pattern on sleeves and the same dec for raglan on body as before. When all dec are done for raglan body, 164-164-164-156-154-146 sts remain on needle. Then continue as follows on next row from RS: Work the first 18-18-18-18-20-20 sts before slipping them on a stitch holder for neck, continue over sleeves and back piece as before, and slip the remaining 18-18-18-18-20-20 sts on a stitch holder.
On the next 6 rows continue with pattern over sleeves, stockinette st on back piece and dec as before (i.e. dec for raglan as dec for raglan body), AT THE SAME TIME work an elevation in the back of neck as follows: Reduce no of sts worked as follows: Work until 3 sts remain on row, turn, work until 3 sts remain, turn, work until 6 sts remain, turn, work until 6 sts remain, turn, work until 9 sts remain, turn, work until 9 sts remain. Then slip sts from stitch holders back on needle, switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work 3 ridges over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row on edge in garter st adjust sts to 153-153-153-144-144-136 evenly on needle (but not over the 5 band sts in garter st in each side). Loosely bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. Sew the buttons on to left band.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 15.08.2018
BUTTON HOLES SIZE XXL: SIZE XXL: 20, 27, 34, 41, 48 and 55 cm

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= K from RS, P from WS
	= P from RS, K from WS
	= 1 YO between 2 sts
	= K 2 tog
	= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
	= P 2 tog

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (30)

Marja wrote:

Hei. Jatkuuko lyhennetyillä kerroksilla raglan kavennukset myös hihoissa, vaiko vain takakappaleessa?

15.11.2023 - 14:46

Huomasin että aloitan mallikerrat vain normaalisti alusta, alhaalta uudelleen. Eli, ei tarvitse vastata. Hätäilin taas turhaan kysymyksen kanssa.

12.11.2023 - 20:24

Hei. Koko L. Olen puolivälissä A2A3 kuviota. Hyvin sujuu. Jatko arveluttaa. En ymmärrä miten hihojen raglankavennukset jatkuvat kun A2A3 ovat valmiit. Kavennetaanko silloin myös A1 kuviosta? Jos, niin miten? Kuinka monta silmukkaa on hihassa kun kaikki kavennukset on tehty? Ja kuinka monta A1 kuviokertaa on silloin hihassa jäljellä?

10.11.2023 - 12:10

Korjaus edelliseen, siis jos lisäyksiä olisi x8 olisi s määrä 258

06.11.2023 - 19:11

Koko L. Ohjeen alkuvaiheessa kun lisäyksiä tehdään; ohjeessa lukee "Toista tällaiset lisäykset ...vielä 7 kertaa=254 s työssä. " Pitäisikö olla "tee lisäykset yhteensä 7 kertaa...."? Koska jos on kerran lisätty ja lisätään "vielä" 7 kertaa, on lisäyksiä tehty yhteensä 8 kertaa ja siömukkamäärä olisi 254.

06.11.2023 - 19:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, olet oikeassa! Ohjeeseen on tehty korjaus.

08.11.2023 - 17:43

Sandra wrote:

Größe L: Ich habe das Passe 38x gestrickt. Das Rückenteil hat jetzt 32 Maschen, die Ärmel jeweils 43 Maschen. Nun kommen verkürzte Reihen für einen höheren Halsausschnitt. Auf jeder Seite sollen 3 - 6 - 9 Maschen stillgelegt werden. Damit würden sich die verkürzten Reihen über die Ärmel erstrecken, also nicht nur im Rückenteil, dafür sind ja zuwenige MAschen für das Rückenteil da. Also im Ärmel für die verkürzten Reihen wenden. Ist das richtig?

30.07.2022 - 14:25

Liebe Sandra, ja so ist es richtig, vergessen Sie aber nicht, gleichzeitig die Raglanabnahmen wie zuvor zu arbeiten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.08.2022 - 16:44

A1 und A2 werden wiederholt, so wie es auf der Zeichnung zu sehen ist? Also die zusätzlichen Abnahmen auch? Bei Größe L sind das 3x das Schema (3 x 12 Reihen = 36 + 2 = 38 Wiederholungen) mit den zusätzlichen 4 Abnahmen pro Ärmel. Bei der 37. Reihe keine zusätzliche Abnahmen mehr. Dann ergibt sich eine Maschenzahl von 164 übrigen Maschen. In Zahlen: 38 x 8 und zusätzlich 12 abnahmen pro Ärmel, also 24 = 328. 492-328=164. Ist das richtig?

28.03.2022 - 00:55

Liebe Sandra, ja das ist korrekt, Sie wiederholen A1 und A2 mit den Abnahmen und haben am Ende 164 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken!

31.03.2022 - 22:20

Kristina wrote:

Det du skriver stämmer med det jag kommit fram till, men det stämmer inte med mönstret. Både du och jag har kommit fram till att framstycket är 60 m och bakstycket 120. Men i mönstret är det 56 resp 112 i xl. Redan 2016 kom Marita Johansson fram till samma sak, men hon fick inget svar. Och nu sitter jag och kämpar med samma fel i mönstret och vet inte om det kommer att funka att sticka färdigt koftan.

23.04.2020 - 09:23

Hej Det var fel tal på den svenska och danska översättningen, men detta är nu rättat. Tack för info! Mvh DROPS Design

23.04.2020 - 10:51

Stickar oket i XL. Kan inte få mönstret att stämma. 5+56+147+112+147+56+5 (som det ska vara i XL enligt mönstret) =528, inte 544 som det står att det ska vara på stickan innan man börjar sticka oket. Så här blev det för mig: 5+60+147+120+147+60+5=544. Detta stämmer med det angivna antalet maskor på stickan. Men jag blir osäker på hur det blir senare i mönstret. Kan ni hjälpa mig med det här?

04.04.2020 - 11:00

= 544 masker, 5 stolpe-m rille, 60 m glstrikk (= høyre forstk), sett et merke her, A.2 (= 21 m), A.1 totalt 15 ganger =105 m, A.3 (= 21 m), sett et merke her, glstrikk over de neste 120 m (= bakstykke), sett et merke her, A.2 (= 21 m), A.1 totalt 15 ganger = 105, A.3 (= 21 m), sett et merke her, 60 m glstrikk (= venstre forstk), 5 stolpe-m rille. = totalt 544 masker.

21.04.2020 - 11:19

Gitte wrote:

Denne sætning til sidst er noget get vrøvl: SAMTIDIG på 1.p retstrik justeres der til 153-153-153-144-144-136 på p (men ikke over de 5 kantm i retstrik i hver side) = 139-139-139-139-134-134 m tilbage på p. Skal der være 153 eller 139 m tilbage i str S/M?

27.02.2019 - 17:03