DROPS / 151 / 6

Orchid Bloom by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress with round yoke and lace pattern in ”Big Merino”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no mb-005
Yarn group C
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-106-130 cm / 34½”-41¾”- 51½”
Full length: 74-78-82 cm / 29”-30¾”-32¼”

Materials:
DROPS BIG MERINO from Garnstudio
700-850-1000 g color no 09, lavender

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Big Merino mix DROPS Big Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Big Merino uni colour DROPS Big Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 58.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. See diagram A.1 for size!
----------------------------------------------------------

DRESS:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 54-58-58 sts on a short circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Big Merino. Work 2 RIDGES in garter st - see explanation above, on last round inc 9-5-5 sts evenly = 63 sts in all sizes. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid back. Then work an elevation at the back in garter st as follows: K 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and K 16 sts back, turn, tighten yarn and K 24 sts, turn, continue by working 8 sts more on every turn until a total of 48 sts have been worked, turn and K 1 round until marker mid back again. Then work according to A.1 (work 7 repetitions of A.1 in width). Switch to a longer circular needle when needed. When A.1 has been worked, there are 245-287-343 sts on round. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 240-288-340.

Work next round as follows from mid back: Work 33-41-51 sts, slip the next 54-62-68 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 8 new sts, work 66-82-102 sts (= front piece), slip the next 54-62-68 sts on 1 stitch holder for sleeve (without working them first), cast on 8 new sts, work 33-41-51 sts.

BODY:
= 148-180-220 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Insert 1 marker in each side, in the middle of the 8 new sts that were cast on. Work in stockinette st. When piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8’’, dec 1 st on each side of markers, repeat dec every 4-4½-5 cm / 1½”-1¾”-2” 3 more times (4 dec in total ) = 132-164-204 sts. When piece measures 21-23-25 cm / 8 1/4”-9”-9¾”, inc 1 st on each side of each marker, repeat inc every 3 cm / 1 1/8’’ 8 more times (9 inc in total) = 168-200-240 sts. Continue until piece measures 53-55-57 cm / 21”-21½”-22½”, bind off.

SLEEVE:
Slip sts from one stitch holder on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8, cast in addition on 8 sts mid under sleeve (insert 1 marker in the middle of these sts) = 62-70-76 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Work in stockinette st in the round. When sleeve measures 3 cm / 1 1/8’’, dec 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat dec every 2½-2-1½ cm / 7/8”-3/4”-½” 10-13-14 more times (11-14-15 times in total) = 40-42-46 sts. When sleeve measures 35-34-32 cm / 13 ¾”-13½”-12½” (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), work 2 ridges in garter st. Bind off.

Work the same way over the sts on the other stitch holder.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

EDGE WITH LEAF PATTERN:
Work edge back and forth on circular needle and fasten at the bottom of dress when finished. Cast on 8 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Big Merino. Work according to A.2 (1st row = from RS). Work A.2 until piece measures 98-118-142 cm / 38½”-46½”-55¾” vertically, bind off. Sew cast-on edge and cast-off edge tog, fasten the edge at the bottom of dress, make sure that the seam on edge is mid back on dress.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row P YO
= 1 YO between 2 sts, on next row K YO twisted
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= P 2 tog
= inc by working 2 sts in 1 st
= bind off 1 st




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 151-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (38)

Julia Denkwitz 27.11.2019 - 09:51:

In Reihe 16 von Muster A1 L/XL taucht auf einmal, ohne eine Zunahme an dieser Stelle, eine zusätzliche linke Masche auf, genauso in Reihe 18. Wo kommen die her?

DROPS Design 27.11.2019 kl. 12:51:

Liebe Frau Denkwitz, Diagram A.1, size L/XL wird korrigiert, bei der 16. Reihe müssen Sie nur 2 linken Maschen stricken (= nicht 3) und am Ende Reihe 18 und 20 soll die letzte Masche links gestrickt werden+ 1 Umschlag fehlt am Ende Reihe 19 + 23. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Zuzanna 16.08.2018 - 19:43:

Dzien dobry Czy na schemacie karczku sukienki orchid boom są pokazane parzyste i nieparzyste rzędy?

DROPS Design 17.08.2018 kl. 16:41:

Witaj Zuzanno! Schemat pokazuje wszystkie rzędy, widok na prawej stronie robótki. Pozdrawiamy

Marty 23.07.2016 - 17:02:

Non riesco a capire come sia possibile avere 9 maglie di partenza per arrivare poi a 35 maglia. Forse sto interpretando male il disegno, AL primo giro ho già 11 maglie corretto perchè ho i due gettati; al secondo giro ne ho 13 perchè ho i due aumenti laterali; al terzo giro avrò altre 2 maglie in più per via dei gettati quindi ne avrò 15 e via dicendo e al giro 16 ne avrò almeno 43 giusto?

DROPS Design 23.07.2016 kl. 17:32:

Buongiorno Marty. Inizia con gli aumenti ai giri 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15. Quindi al giro 16 il numero delle m è 25 (ha aumentato 2 m 8 volte, quindi in tutto 16 m in più; 9 + 16 = 25 m). Ai giri 17, 21, 23, 27, 29 e 33 le m gettate vengono compensate dalle m diminuite (quindi in questi giri non ci sono aumenti). Aumenta di nuovo 2 m ai giri 19, 25, 31, 37, 43. Quindi vengono aumentate in tutto altre 10 m (2 m aumentate 5 volte). Al giro 44 la ripetizione del motivo è formata da 25 m + 10 m = 35 m. Buon lavoro!

Marty 20.07.2016 - 19:36:

Gli aumenti esterni presenti sullo schema a1 devono essere effettuati anche all'inizio e alla fine del lavoro? come dobbiamo effettuare gli aumenti all'inizio del ferro?

DROPS Design 20.07.2016 kl. 20:02:

Buonasera Marty. Per aumentare può lavorare la stessa m due volte, sia nel filo davanti che in quello dietro come mostrato nel video cha alleghiamo. Buon lavoro!

Irene Moss 16.06.2015 - 20:19:

Has anyone else found this neckline to be very high and somewhat tight? I'm making the size s/m which is definitely my size, but am concerned about the small # of stitches at cast-on.

Monika 27.10.2014 - 21:12:

Bei der Zeichenerklärung (Diagramm) stehen bei zwei Zeichen 1M re in Hin-R, 1M li in Rück-R. Beim Rund sticken gibt es doch aber nur eine Runde, was gilt dann dort? Beim Saum ist es mir klar, da hin und her geschrickt wird.

DROPS Design 28.10.2014 kl. 06:01:

Beim Rundstricken haben Sie ja immer die Vorderseite vorne, daher gilt hier immer das, was für Hin-R beschrieben ist.

Mannoury 08.02.2014 - 12:52:

Je ne comprends pas les explications pour l'empiecement apres les 63 mailles les explications : tricoter une re-hausse je n'ai pas compris comment faire

DROPS Design 10.02.2014 kl. 09:22:

Bonjour Mannoury, la ré-hausse pour l'encolure dos permet à l'encolure dos d'être plus haute que l'encolure devant. Commencez au milieu dos (début du tour), et tricotez des rangs raccourcis au point mousse en tricotant : 8 m au 1er rang (sur l'end), 16 m au 2ème rang (sur l'env), 24 m au 3ème rang (sur l'end) et ainsi de suite jusqu'à ce que vous ayez tricoté 48 m, tricotez encore 1 tour end jusq'au milieu dos et continuez en point fantaisie. Bon tricot!

Sissel 02.02.2014 - 22:53:

Ferdig! Og den ble nydelig. Takk for en fantastisk oppskrift.

Gerda 31.01.2014 - 14:16:

Habe ein ganz ähnliches Muster vor Jahren schon im Internet gefunden und nachgearbeitet; da von oben nach unten gearbeitet wird muss alles vorher gut ausgemessen und berechnet sein; Vorsicht bei stärkerem Busen als hier dargestellt, wird leicht zu eng!

Simona 03.12.2013 - 20:17:

Sono nei guai già dall'inizio! Non solo non riesco a lavorare in circolare le 58 maglie iniziali ma non so come "lavorare un'alzata" e "tirare il filo".... Mi potete aiutare per favore?

DROPS Design 03.12.2013 kl. 20:41:

Buonasera Simona, per iniziare a lavorare in tondo le 58 m deve usare i ferri circolari da 40 cm e avviare le m non troppo strette. Per quanto riguarda "l'alzata", è realizzata a ferri accorciati: provi a vedere se questo video può esserle utile: . Ci riscriva se ha ancora dubbi. Buon lavoro!!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 151-6

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.