Helle Hansen wrote:
Kan ikke finde videoen på kjolen, er der hvor der skal hækles knapkanten, men kan ikke ikke finde ud af hvad det er jeg skal gøre.
21.01.2025 - 15:04
Ingrida wrote:
Is Round 10 for a XL sized skirt is correct? Why such a different No. of dc? Work 1 dc in each of the first 4-6-6-1-8-8 dc.... Thank fou for the reply.
26.02.2023 - 17:03DROPS Design answered:
Dear Ingrida, the pattern is correct. The number of dc may depend on the initial amount and may vary in order to adjust to the correct amount of dc for that. You should have 38 decreased stitches after the round, and the final number of stitches should match to having worked 1dc before starting with decreases. Happy crocheting!
26.02.2023 - 20:27
Lovisa wrote:
Hej! Efter att ha virkat rutorna längst ned och sedan första varvet med stolpar ovanför dem, fortsätter man då i en spiral eller vänder man för varje varv så att varannat varv är rätsida och varannat avigsida?
23.05.2022 - 17:35DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lovisa, du virkar runt från mitt bak :)
25.05.2022 - 12:59
Misha wrote:
Hello, Can you please clarify if I have to make buttonholes or I just have to sew both sides together with the buttons.
04.04.2022 - 15:17DROPS Design answered:
Dear Misha, you won't make buttonholes, you will sew buttons on one front piece and crochet buttons between 2 stitches through the other front piece. Happy crocheting!
04.04.2022 - 15:37
Lone wrote:
Hej - jeg er ved at være oppe ved sidste indtagning (ved 43 cm i størrelse XXL). I flg tegningen skal den måle 55 cm, men min måler 75 cm... Jeg har nøjagtig fulgt hæklefastheden præcis. Blondekanten måler 90 cm, som den skal i følge tegningen... Er der en fejl mht startmålene eller taljemålene?
21.03.2019 - 14:34DROPS Design answered:
Hei Lone. Etter siste felling har du i XXL 260 staver. 6 av disse inngår i stolpene, altså det er 254 staver som utgjør midje-målet. Med en heklefasthet på 23 staver i bredden = 10 cm, blir dette 110 cm rundt hele og 55 cm tvers over. Har du kanskje for mange staver? God fornøyelse
26.03.2019 - 15:16
Loredana wrote:
J’ai réussi a la crocheter alors que c’est mon tout premier ouvrage en crochet,elle est juste magnifique! Merci Drops,vous me rendez heureuse et belle!
23.06.2014 - 12:04
Orsetta wrote:
Bonjour, Avec la base composée de 22 carrés, j'arrive à une taille beaucoup trop large (13 cm de trop). Je souhaite recommencer sur une base de 14 carrés. Comment puis-je réajuster mes calculs pour dessiner la silhouette de la robe ? Puis-je me baser sur les diminutions indiquées pour la taille S par exemple ? Merci d'avance pour votre aide.
22.06.2014 - 14:23DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Orsetta, Ce modèle a été écrit sur la base d'un carré = 6x6 cm + 23 B x 13 rangs de B = 10 x 10 cm. Sur la base de votre échantillon et du schéma des mesures en bas de page, vous pouvez tout recalculer pour avoir l'ouvrage qui vous convient. Bon crochet!
23.06.2014 - 09:07
Hluchaniuc Ileana wrote:
Elle est ravissante! De 1 à 4 quel niveau de difficulté on peut attribuer à cette robe ? Merci
30.05.2014 - 14:21DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Hluchaniuc, pour vous aider à réaliser cette robe, vous trouverez différentes vidéos sous l'onglet "Vidéos", si nécessaire, n'hésitez pas à demander de l'aide à votre magasin DROPS ou sur le forum DROPS. Bon crochet!
03.06.2014 - 08:54
Loredana wrote:
Merci pour vos conseils .. J'aimerais savoir s'il existe une astuce ,concernant le travail en rond, pour que la démarcation (comme une couture) là où on change de rang soit invisible (comme pour le tricot par ex) ou moins apparente? Aussi si vous connaissez des techniques pour cacher cela(comme dans le cas de cette robe) une fois déjà crocheté ?
27.05.2014 - 21:57DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Loredana, la vidéo ci-dessous montre comment crocheter des brides en rond - un blocage (lavage et mise en forme)aide souvent à obtenir un ouvrage plus régulier. Bon crochet !
28.05.2014 - 09:04
Loredana wrote:
Bonjour. Vous dites "crocheter 1 B derrière chacune des 6 premières B crochetées au début du tour (pour que les bordures devant se chevauchent) = 204-230-256-281-306-331 B " mais je ne suis pas sûre de la manière à faire. Comment crocheter derrière les brides? Merci
22.05.2014 - 14:17DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Loredana, vous crochetez ces 6 brides dans les mêmes mailles du rang précédent où vous avez crocheté les 6 premières brides du début du rang. Bon crochet !
22.05.2014 - 15:58
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Crochet DROPS dress with buttons at the front and flounce in ”Safran”. Size S-XXXL
DROPS 145-9 |
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CROCHET INFO: Replace first dc on every round/row with 3 ch and finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. CROCHET 2 dc TOG AS FOLLOWS: Work 1 dc in first dc on round below but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in next dc on round below but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook. 1 dc has been dec. DECREASE TIP (applies to neck): Dec at beg of row as follows: Work sl sts over no of dc to be dec. Dec at end of row as follows: When no of dc to be dec remains, turn. -------------------------------------------------------- DRESS: First work the squares – they are gradually worked tog. Then work along one side of squares and up the skirt and then the top. Finally work flounce along the other side of squares and down, and ruffles around armholes. SQUARE 1: Also see diagram A.1. Ch 4 on hook size 3 mm / C with Safran and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. ROUND 1: ch 3 (= 1 dc), work 11 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. ROUND 2: ch 2, 1 sc in next dc, 1 ch * 1 sc in next dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round. ROUND 3: ch 1, 1 sc in 2nd ch from previous round, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch from previous round *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 12 ch-spaces. ROUND 4: ch 2, 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, 8 ch (= corner), 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, but finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round (instead of 1 sc in next ch-space). Cut the yarn. SQUARE 2: Work as SQUARE 1 from 1st to 3rd round. ROUND 4: Also see diagram A.1. Work as follows: ch 2, 1 sc in first ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, place the square WS against WS with SQUARE 1, work 1 sc in one of the large ch-spaces on SQUARE 1 (= corner), ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 2, * ch 2, 1 sc in next small ch-space on SQUARE 1, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 2 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, ch 4, 1 sc in next large ch-space on SQUARE 1 (= corner), ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space on SQUARE 2. Then work around SQUARE 2 as follows: ** ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 8, 1 sc in next ch-space **, repeat from **-** 1 more time but finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. Cut the yarn. Then work SQUARE 2 until a total of 22-24-26-28-30-32 squares have been worked. The last square is worked tog with both the next to last and the first square so that the squares form a circle. SKIRT: READ CROCHET INFO! Work with Safran on hook size 3 mm / C along one long side of the squares as follows: ROUND 1: 4 dc in each of the large ch-spaces in the corners on the squares and 3 dc in each of the small ch-spaces = 14 dc per square and 308-336-364-392-420-448 dc in total. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid back. ROUND 2: Work * 1 dc in each of the first 5 dc, then work 2 dc tog - see explanation above - *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 264-288-312-336-360-384 dc. ROUND 3: Work 1 dc in every dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! ROUND 4: ch 4, skip first dc, * 1 dc in next dc, ch 1, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. ROUND 5: Work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc in every ch = 264-288-312-336-360-384 dc. ROUND 6: Work 1 dc in every dc. ROUND 7: Work as 4th round. ROUND 8: Work as 5th round. ROUND 9: Work 1 dc in every dc. ROUND 10: Work 1 dc in each of the first 4-6-6-1-8-8 dc, then work 2 dc tog, * 1 dc in each of the next 4-5-6-7-8-9 dc, then work 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 220-247-273-298-324-349 dc. Piece now measures approx. 14 cm / 5½" incl crochet squares. Continue in the round with 1 dc in every dc. When piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm / 11⅜"-11¾"-12¼"-12½"-13"-13⅜", work next round as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 8-3-7-10-0-2 dc, then work 2 dc tog, * 1 dc in each of the next 8-9-10-11-12-13 dc, then work 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 198-224-250-275-300-325 dc. Work 1 more round with 1 dc in every dc, cut the thread. Now beg working back and forth from mid front to make openings for buttons. Count 99-112-125-138-150-163 dc from mid back and insert 1 marker (= mid front). Count 3 dc to the right of marker (when piece is in front of you), beg to work here with 1 sl st and ch 3, then work 1 dc in every dc around the entire dress until beg of round, do not finish round with 1 sl st but work 1 dc at the back of each of the first 6 dc worked (to make overlap for bands) = 204-230-256-281-306-331 dc. Turn and continue back and forth with 1 dc in every dc. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm / 13⅜"-13¾"-14¼"-14½"-15"-15¼", dec 22-23-23-23-23-24 dc evenly as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 6-4-6-7-9-3 dc, then work 2 dc tog, * work 1 dc in each of the next 7-8-9-10-11-12 dc, then work 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* until 7-4-6-8-9-4 dc remain, work 1 dc in each of these = 182-207-233-258-283-307 dc. Continue with 1 dc in every dc. When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm / 15¼"-15¾"-16⅛"-16½"-17"-17¼", dec 16-17-19-20-23-25 dc evenly as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 7-6-7-14-8-8 dc, then work 2 dc tog, * work 1 dc in each of the next 9-10-10-10-10-10 dc, then work 2 dc tog *, repeat from *-* until 8-7-8-14-9-9 dc remain, work 1 dc in each of these = 166-190-214-238-260-282 dc. Continue to work 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm / 18"-18½"-19"-19¼"-19¾"-20". On next row, inc 14 sts evenly as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 12-8-4-14-8-16 dc, * then work 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 10-12-14-15-17-18 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 180-204-228-252-274-296 dc. Continue to work 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 56-57-58-59-60-61 cm / 22"-22½"-22¾"-23¼"-23⅝"-24". On next row, inc 14 sts evenly as follows: Work 1 dc in each of the first 12-8-4-14-8-16 dc, * then work 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 11-14-15-16-18-19 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 194-218-242-266-288-310 dc. Continue with 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 64-65-66-67-68-69 cm / 25¼"-25½"-26"-26⅜"-26¾"-27⅛". Armholes beg now and front and back pieces are finished separately. FIRST FRONT PIECE: SIZE S: Work dc back and forth over the first 47 dc. AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd row inc 1 dc towards the armhole by working 2 dc in next to last dc (= broad shoulder). Repeat inc on every row 6 more times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 70 cm / 27½", beg neck dec as follows: Work until 14 dc remain towards mid front, turn piece. Then dec on every row as follows: 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 2 times and 1 dc 3 times – SEE DECREASE TIP! After all inc for shoulder and dec for neck, there are 30 dc on row. Continue to work until piece measures 18 cm / 7" from where armhole beg, i.e. piece measures approx. 82 cm / 32¼" in total, cut the yarn. SIZE M: Work dc back and forth over the first 52 dc. AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd row inc 1 dc towards the armhole by working 2 dc in next to last dc (= broad shoulder). Repeat inc every other row 4 more times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 71 cm / 28", beg neck dec as follows: Work until 14 dc remain towards mid front, turn piece. Then dec on every row as follows: 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 2 times and 1 dc 3 times – SEE DECREASE TIP! After all inc for shoulder and dec for neck, there are 33 dc on row. Continue to work until piece measures 19 cm / 7½" from where armhole beg, i.e. piece measures approx. 84 cm / 33" in total, cut the yarn. SIZE L: Work dc back and forth over the first 57 dc. AT THE SAME TIME on 4th row inc 1 dc towards the armhole by working 2 dc in next to last dc (= broad shoulder). Repeat inc on 8th row (= 2 inc in total). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 72 cm / 28⅜", beg neck dec as follows: Work until 15 dc remain towards mid front, turn piece. Then dec on every row as follows: 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 2 times and 1 dc 3 times – SEE DECREASE TIP! After all inc for shoulder and dec for neck, there are 34 dc on row. Continue to work until piece measures 20 cm / 8" from where armhole beg, i.e. piece measures approx. 86 cm / 33⅞" in total, cut the yarn. SIZE XL: Work dc back and forth over the first 62 dc. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row dec 1 dc towards the armhole by working the last 2 dc tog = 61 dc. When piece measures 73 cm / 28¾", beg neck dec as follows: Work until 15 dc remain towards mid front, turn piece. Then dec on every row as follows: 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 2 times and 1 dc 3 times – SEE DECREASE TIP! After all dec there are 36 dc on row. Continue to work until piece measures 21 cm / 8¼" from where armhole beg, i.e. piece measures approx. 88 cm / 34⅝" in total, cut the yarn. SIZE XXL: Work dc back and forth over the first 67 dc. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row dec 1 dc towards the armhole by working the last 2 dc tog, repeat dec on every row 2 more times = 64 dc. When piece measures 74 cm / 29⅛", beg neck dec as follows: Work until 16 dc remain towards mid front, turn piece. Then dec on every row as follows: 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 2 times and 1 dc 3 times – SEE DECREASE TIP! After all dec there are 38 dc on row. Continue to work until piece measures 22 cm / 8¾" from where armhole beg, i.e. piece measures approx. 90 cm / 35½" in total, cut the yarn. SIZE XXXL: Work dc back and forth over the first 71 dc. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row dec 1 dc towards the armhole by working the last 2 dc tog, repeat dec on every row 5 more times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 76 cm / 30", beg neck dec as follows: Work until 16 dc remain towards mid front, turn piece. Then dec on every row as follows: 3 dc 1 time, 2 dc 2 times and 1 dc 3 times – SEE DECREASE TIP! After all dec there are 39 dc on row. Continue to work until piece measures 23 cm / 9" from where armhole beg, i.e. piece measures approx. 92 cm / 36¼" in total, cut the yarn. OTHER FRONT PIECE: Work as first front piece but reversed. BACK PIECE: Work dc back and forth over the middle 88-98-108-118-126-136 dc (6-8-10-12-14-16 dc in each side = armhole). Inc (in the 3 smallest sizes) / dec (in the 3 largest sizes) in each side at the armholes as on front piece. After all inc/dec are done there are 102-108-112-116-120-124 dc on row. When armhole measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½"-8"-8¼" vertically, work for another 2 cm / ¾" only over 30-33-34-36-38-39 dc in each side (the middle 42-42-44-44-44-46 dc = neck), cut the thread. The whole piece measures approx. 82-84-86-88-90-92 cm / 32¼"-33"-33⅞"-34⅝"-35½"-36¼". ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Work 2 rows with sc around the neck (work first row from WS) – make sure to avoid a tight edge and a wide neckline. FLOUNCE AT THE BOTTOM: Work along the other side of squares at the bottom of skirt as follows - beg mid back: ROUND 1: 4 dc in each of the large ch-spaces in the corners on the squares and 3 dc in each of the small ch-spaces = 14 dc per square and 308-336-364-392-420-448 dc in total. ROUND 2: ch 4, skip 1 dc, * 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 154-168-182-196-210-224 ch-spaces. ROUND 3: ch 2, 1 sc at the top of first ch-space from previous round, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. ROUND 4: ch 2, 1 sc at the top of first ch-space from previous round, * ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. ROUND 5: Work as 4th round. ROUND 6: * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. ROUND 7: Work as 6th round. ROUND 8: * ch 7, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round. ROUND 9: Crochet as follows in every ch-space: 3 sc, 1 picot (= ch 3, 1 sc in first ch) and 3 sc. Finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round, cut and fasten the thread. RUFFLE AT THE ARMHOLES: Beg at the end of 4th row, counted from where armhole beg. ROW 1: Work 1 sc in outermost st, * then work ch 3, skip approx. 1 cm / ⅜", 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* until 4th row on the other side, turn piece. ROW 2: ch 2, 1 sc at the top of first ch-space, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row, turn piece. ROW 3: ch 2, 1 sc at the top of first ch-space, * ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row (do not work in the 2 ch from beg of row), turn piece. ROW 4: ch 3, 1 sc at the top of first ch-space on previous row, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row (do not work the 2 ch from beg of row), turn piece. ROW 5: ch 3, 1 sc at the top of first ch-space on previous row, * ch 6, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row (do not work the 3 ch from beg of row), turn piece. ROW 6: ch 4, 1 sc at the top of first ch-space on previous row, * ch 7, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row (do not work the 3 ch from beg of row), turn piece. ROW 7: Work as follows in every ch-space: 3 sc, 1 picot (= ch 3, 1 sc in first ch) and 3 sc. Fasten off. Work the same way at the bottom of the other sleeve. Sew buttons on left band – top button should be 1 cm / ½" from the top, then evenly spaced downwards, button through sts. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find 7 tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. Have you finished this pattern? |
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