DROPS / 145 / 9

Campanula by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS dress with buttons at the front and flounce in ”Safran”. Size S-XXXL

Tags: dresses, flounce, lace,
DROPS design: Pattern no e-206
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio
550-600-700-800-900-1000 g colour no 06, denim blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 1 square = approx. 6 x 6 cm (with a light pull) and 23 tr x 13 rows with tr = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS ANGULAR SILVER BUTTONS, NO 534: 7 pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.65£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first tr on every round/row with 3 ch and finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

CROCHET 2 TR TOG AS FOLLOWS:
Work 1 tr in first tr on round below but wait with last pull through, work 1 tr in next tr on round below but on last pull through, pull thread through all 3 loops on hook. 1 tr has been dec.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neck):
Dec at beg of row as follows: Work sl sts over no of tr to be dec. Dec at end of row as follows: When no of tr to be dec remains, turn.

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DRESS:
First work the squares – they are gradually worked tog. Then work along one side of squares and up the skirt and then the top. Finally work flounce along the other side of squares and down, and ruffles around armholes.

SQUARE 1:
Also see diagram A.1.
Crochet 4 ch on hook size 3 mm with Safran and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 3 ch (= 1 tr), work 11 tr in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2: Work 2 ch, 1 dc in next tr, 1 ch * 1 dc in next tr, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round.
ROUND 3: 1 ch, 1 dc in 2nd ch from previous round, * 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch from previous round *, repeat from *-*, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 12 ch-loops.
ROUND 4: 2 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, * 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 8 ch (= corner), 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round, but finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round (instead of 1 dc in next ch-loop). Cut the thread.

SQUARE 2:
Work as SQUARE 1 from 1st to 3rd round.
ROUND 4: Also see diagram A.1.
Work as follows: 2 ch, 1 dc in first ch-loop, 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, place the square WS against WS with SQUARE 1, work 1 dc in one of the large ch-loops on SQUARE 1 (= corner), 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop on SQUARE 2, * 2 ch, 1 dc in next small ch-loop on SQUARE 1, 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop on SQUARE 2 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, 4 ch, 1 dc in next large ch-loop on SQUARE 1 (= corner), 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop on SQUARE 2. Then work around SQUARE 2 as follows: ** 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 8 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop **, repeat from **-** 1 more time but finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round. Cut the thread.

Then work SQUARE 2 until a total of 22-24-26-28-30-32 squares have been worked. The last square is worked tog with both the next to last and the first square so that the squares form a circle.

SKIRT:
READ CROCHET INFO! Work with Safran on hook size 3 mm along one long side of the squares as follows:
ROUND 1: 4 tr in each of the large ch-loops in the corners on the squares and 3 tr in each of the small ch-loops = 14 tr per square and 308-336-364-392-420-448 tr in total.
Insert a marker at beg of round = mid back.
ROUND 2: Work * 1 tr in each of the first 5 tr, then work 2 tr tog - see explanation above - *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 264-288-312-336-360-384 tr.
ROUND 3: Work 1 tr in every tr.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 4: 4 ch, skip first tr, * 1 tr in next tr, 1 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: Work 1 tr in every tr and 1 tr in every ch = 264-288-312-336-360-384 tr.
ROUND 6: Work 1 tr in every tr.
ROUND 7: Work as 4th round.
ROUND 8: Work as 5th round.
ROUND 9: Work 1 tr in every tr.
ROUND 10: Work 1 tr in each of the first 4-6-6-1-8-8 tr, then work 2 tr tog, * 1 tr in each of the next 4-5-6-7-8-9 tr, then work 2 tr tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 220-247-273-298-324-349 tr. Piece now measures approx. 14 cm incl crochet squares.
Continue in the round with 1 tr in every tr.
When piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm, work next round as follows: 1 tr in each of the first 8-3-7-10-0-2 tr, then work 2 tr tog, * 1 tr in each of the next 8-9-10-11-12-13 tr, then work 2 tr tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 198-224-250-275-300-325 tr.
Work 1 more round with 1 tr in every tr, cut the thread.
Now beg working back and forth from mid front to make openings for buttons.
Count 99-112-125-138-150-163 tr from mid back and insert 1 marker (= mid front). Count 3 tr to the right of marker (when piece is in front of you), beg to work here with 1 sl st and 3 ch, then work 1 tr in every tr around the entire dress until beg of round, do not finish round with 1 sl st but work 1 tr at the back of each of the first 6 tr worked (to make overlap for bands) = 204-230-256-281-306-331 tr. Turn and continue back and forth with 1 tr in every tr.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 34-35-36-37-38-39 cm, dec 22-23-23-23-23-24 tr evenly as follows: Work 1 tr in each of the first 6-4-6-7-9-3 tr, then work 2 tr tog, * work 1 tr in each of the next 7-8-9-10-11-12 tr, then work 2 tr tog *, repeat from *-* until 7-4-6-8-9-4 tr remain, work 1 tr in each of these = 182-207-233-258-283-307 tr.
Continue with 1 tr in every tr.
When piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm, dec 16-17-19-20-23-25 tr evenly as follows: Work 1 tr in each of the first 7-6-7-14-8-8 tr, then work 2 tr tog, * work 1 tr in each of the next 9-10-10-10-10-10 tr, then work 2 tr tog *, repeat from *-* until 8-7-8-14-9-9 tr remain, work 1 tr in each of these = 166-190-214-238-260-282 tr.
Continue to work 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm.
On next row, inc 14 sts evenly as follows: Work 1 tr in each of the first 12-8-4-14-8-16 tr, * then work 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 10-12-14-15-17-18 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 180-204-228-252-274-296 tr.
Continue to work 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 56-57-58-59-60-61 cm.
On next row, inc 14 sts evenly as follows: Work 1 tr in each of the first 12-8-4-14-8-16 tr, * then work 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 11-14-15-16-18-19 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 194-218-242-266-288-310 tr.
Continue with 1 tr in every tr until piece measures 64-65-66-67-68-69 cm. Armholes beg now and front and back pieces are finished separately.

FIRST FRONT PIECE:
SIZE S:
Work tr back and forth over the first 47 tr. AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd row inc 1 tr towards the armhole by working 2 tr in next to last tr (= broad shoulder). Repeat inc on every row 6 more times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 70 cm, beg neck dec as follows: Work until 14 tr remain towards mid front, turn piece. Then dec on every row as follows: 3 tr 1 time, 2 tr 2 times and 1 tr 3 times – SEE DECREASE TIP! After all inc for shoulder and dec for neck, there are 30 tr on row. Continue to work until piece measures 18 cm from where armhole beg, i.e. piece measures approx. 82 cm in total, cut the thread.

SIZE M:
Work tr back and forth over the first 52 tr. AT THE SAME TIME on 3rd row inc 1 tr towards the armhole by working 2 tr in next to last tr (= broad shoulder). Repeat inc every other row 4 more times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 71 cm, beg neck dec as follows: Work until 14 tr remain towards mid front, turn piece. Then dec on every row as follows: 3 tr 1 time, 2 tr 2 times and 1 tr 3 times – SEE DECREASE TIP! After all inc for shoulder and dec for neck, there are 33 tr on row. Continue to work until piece measures 19 cm from where armhole beg, i.e. piece measures approx. 84 cm in total, cut the thread.

SIZE L:
Work tr back and forth over the first 57 tr. AT THE SAME TIME on 4th row inc 1 tr towards the armhole by working 2 tr in next to last tr (= broad shoulder). Repeat inc on 8th row (= 2 inc in total). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 72 cm, beg neck dec as follows: Work until 15 tr remain towards mid front, turn piece. Then dec on every row as follows: 3 tr 1 time, 2 tr 2 times and 1 tr 3 times – SEE DECREASE TIP! After all inc for shoulder and dec for neck, there are 34 tr on row. Continue to work until piece measures 20 cm from where armhole beg, i.e. piece measures approx. 86 cm in total, cut the thread.

SIZE XL:
Work tr back and forth over the first 62 tr. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row dec 1 tr towards the armhole by working the last 2 tr tog = 61 tr. When piece measures 73 cm, beg neck dec as follows: Work until 15 tr remain towards mid front, turn piece. Then dec on every row as follows: 3 tr 1 time, 2 tr 2 times and 1 tr 3 times – SEE DECREASE TIP! After all dec there are 36 tr on row. Continue to work until piece measures 21 cm from where armhole beg, i.e. piece measures approx. 88 cm in total, cut the thread.

SIZE XXL:
Work tr back and forth over the first 67 tr. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row dec 1 tr towards the armhole by working the last 2 tr tog, repeat dec on every row 2 more times = 64 tr. When piece measures 74 cm, beg neck dec as follows: Work until 16 tr remain towards mid front, turn piece. Then dec on every row as follows: 3 tr 1 time, 2 tr 2 times and 1 tr 3 times – SEE DECREASE TIP! After all dec there are 38 tr on row. Continue to work until piece measures 22 cm from where armhole beg, i.e. piece measures approx. 90 cm in total, cut the thread.

SIZE XXXL:
Work tr back and forth over the first 71 tr. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row dec 1 tr towards the armhole by working the last 2 tr tog, repeat dec on every row 5 more times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 76 cm, beg neck dec as follows: Work until 16 tr remain towards mid front, turn piece. Then dec on every row as follows: 3 tr 1 time, 2 tr 2 times and 1 tr 3 times – SEE DECREASE TIP! After all dec there are 39 tr on row. Continue to work until piece measures 23 cm from where armhole beg, i.e. piece measures approx. 92 cm in total, cut the thread.

OTHER FRONT PIECE:
Work as first front piece but reversed.

BACK PIECE:
Work tr back and forth over the middle 88-98-108-118-126-136 tr (6-8-10-12-14-16 tr in each side = armhole). Inc (in the 3 smallest sizes) / dec (in the 3 largest sizes) in each side at the armholes as on front piece. After all inc/dec are done there are 102-108-112-116-120-124 tr on row. When armhole measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm vertically, work for another 2 cm only over 30-33-34-36-38-39 tr in each side (the middle 42-42-44-44-44-46 tr = neck), cut the thread. The whole piece measures approx. 82-84-86-88-90-92 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Work 2 rows with dc around the neck (work first row from WS) – make sure to avoid a tight edge and a wide neckline.

FLOUNCE AT THE BOTTOM:
Work along the other side of squares at the bottom of skirt as follows - beg mid back:
ROUND 1: 4 tr in each of the large ch-loops in the corners on the squares and 3 tr in each of the small ch-loops = 14 tr per square and 308-336-364-392-420-448 tr in total.
ROUND 2: 4 ch, skip 1 tr, * 1 dc in next tr, 3 ch, skip 1 tr *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round = 154-168-182-196-210-224 ch-loops.
ROUND 3: 2 ch, 1 dc at the top of first ch-loop from previous round, * 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
ROUND 4: 2 ch, 1 dc at the top of first ch-loop from previous round, * 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
ROUND 5: Work as 4th round.
ROUND 6: * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
ROUND 7: Work as 6th round.
ROUND 8: * 7 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round.
ROUND 9: Crochet as follows in every ch-loop: 3 dc, 1 picot (= 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch) and 3 dc. Finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round, cut and fasten the thread.

RUFFLE AT THE ARMHOLES:
Beg at the end of 4th row, counted from where armhole beg.
ROW 1: Work 1 dc in outermost st, * then work 3 ch, skip approx. 1 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* until 4th row on the other side, turn piece.
ROW 2: 2 ch, 1 dc at the top of first ch-loop, * 4 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire row, turn piece.
ROW 3: 2 ch, 1 dc at the top of first ch-loop, * 5 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire row (do not work in the 2 ch from beg of row), turn piece.
ROW 4: 3 ch, 1 dc at the top of first ch-loop on previous row, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire row (do not work the 2 ch from beg of row), turn piece.
ROW 5: 3 ch, 1 dc at the top of first ch-loop on previous row, * 6 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire row (do not work the 3 ch from beg of row), turn piece.
ROW 6: 4 ch, 1 dc at the top of first ch-loop on previous row, * 7 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* the entire row (do not work the 3 ch from beg of row), turn piece.
ROW 7: Work as follows in every ch-loop: 3 dc, 1 picot (= 3 ch, 1 dc in first ch) and 3 dc. Cut and fasten the thread.
Work the same way at the bottom of the other sleeve.

Sew buttons on left band – top button should be 1 cm from the top, then evenly spaced downwards, button through sts.

Diagram

= 1 ch
= 1 dc
= 1 sl st
= 1 tr


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 145-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

Lone 21.03.2019 - 14:34:

Hej - jeg er ved at være oppe ved sidste indtagning (ved 43 cm i størrelse XXL). I flg tegningen skal den måle 55 cm, men min måler 75 cm... Jeg har nøjagtig fulgt hæklefastheden præcis. Blondekanten måler 90 cm, som den skal i følge tegningen... Er der en fejl mht startmålene eller taljemålene?

DROPS Design 26.03.2019 kl. 15:16:

Hei Lone. Etter siste felling har du i XXL 260 staver. 6 av disse inngår i stolpene, altså det er 254 staver som utgjør midje-målet. Med en heklefasthet på 23 staver i bredden = 10 cm, blir dette 110 cm rundt hele og 55 cm tvers over. Har du kanskje for mange staver? God fornøyelse

Loredana 23.06.2014 - 12:04:

J’ai réussi a la crocheter alors que c’est mon tout premier ouvrage en crochet,elle est juste magnifique! Merci Drops,vous me rendez heureuse et belle!

Orsetta 22.06.2014 - 14:23:

Bonjour, Avec la base composée de 22 carrés, j'arrive à une taille beaucoup trop large (13 cm de trop). Je souhaite recommencer sur une base de 14 carrés. Comment puis-je réajuster mes calculs pour dessiner la silhouette de la robe ? Puis-je me baser sur les diminutions indiquées pour la taille S par exemple ? Merci d'avance pour votre aide.

DROPS Design 23.06.2014 kl. 09:07:

Bonjour Mme Orsetta, Ce modèle a été écrit sur la base d'un carré = 6x6 cm + 23 B x 13 rangs de B = 10 x 10 cm. Sur la base de votre échantillon et du schéma des mesures en bas de page, vous pouvez tout recalculer pour avoir l'ouvrage qui vous convient. Bon crochet!

Hluchaniuc Ileana 30.05.2014 - 14:21:

Elle est ravissante! De 1 à 4 quel niveau de difficulté on peut attribuer à cette robe ? Merci

DROPS Design 03.06.2014 kl. 08:54:

Bonjour Mme Hluchaniuc, pour vous aider à réaliser cette robe, vous trouverez différentes vidéos sous l'onglet "Vidéos", si nécessaire, n'hésitez pas à demander de l'aide à votre magasin DROPS ou sur le forum DROPS. Bon crochet!

Loredana 27.05.2014 - 21:57:

Merci pour vos conseils .. J'aimerais savoir s'il existe une astuce ,concernant le travail en rond, pour que la démarcation (comme une couture) là où on change de rang soit invisible (comme pour le tricot par ex) ou moins apparente? Aussi si vous connaissez des techniques pour cacher cela(comme dans le cas de cette robe) une fois déjà crocheté ?

DROPS Design 28.05.2014 kl. 09:04:

Bonjour Loredana, la vidéo ci-dessous montre comment crocheter des brides en rond - un blocage (lavage et mise en forme)aide souvent à obtenir un ouvrage plus régulier. Bon crochet !

Loredana 22.05.2014 - 14:17:

Bonjour. Vous dites "crocheter 1 B derrière chacune des 6 premières B crochetées au début du tour (pour que les bordures devant se chevauchent) = 204-230-256-281-306-331 B " mais je ne suis pas sûre de la manière à faire. Comment crocheter derrière les brides? Merci

DROPS Design 22.05.2014 kl. 15:58:

Bonjour Loredana, vous crochetez ces 6 brides dans les mêmes mailles du rang précédent où vous avez crocheté les 6 premières brides du début du rang. Bon crochet !

Carmen Maria 14.01.2013 - 11:59:

Me gusta mucho incluso en versión corta para poner con vaqueros. Tambien lo tengo en la lista

LEPOIVRE 09.01.2013 - 14:08:

Ce modèle tellement féminin qui me fait penser aux lignes jean's. Je propose donc tout simplement de le nomme Jane

Renate Rausch 09.01.2013 - 00:55:

Sommernacht, Azuro

Schubert 08.01.2013 - 15:38:

*Petra anschließ* Kornblume :)

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