DROPS / 145 / 8

Vivien by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS bolero in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL

Tags: boleros, lace,
  • Vivien / DROPS 145-8 - Crochet DROPS bolero in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL
  • Vivien / DROPS 145-8 - Crochet DROPS bolero in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL
  • Vivien / DROPS 145-8 - Crochet DROPS bolero in ”Merino Extra Fine”. Size: S - XXXL


DROPS design: Pattern no me-060
Yarn group B
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL
Chest measurements: 82/92 - 98/108 - 112/120 - 122/130 cm / 32"/36" - 38½"/42½" - 44"/47" - 48"/51½"

Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
250-300-300-350 g color no 15, light grayish green

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 17 dc x 10 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4'' and 2.5 repetitions of A.1b = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 2.95 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 2.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 2.95 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.75$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc in each side by working 2 dc in next to last dc in each side.

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc on every row with 3 ch and finish every row with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.
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BACK PIECE:
Work 75-84-93-103 ch on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Merino Extra Fine. Turn and work as follows: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in each of the next 3-5-7-3 ch, * skip ch 1, work 1 sc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 65-73-81-89 sc (first ch = 1 sc). Continue with pattern according to A.1 – beg with row marked with 1 arrow as follows: a over the first 4 sts, b until 5 sts remain, then c. There are now 8-9-10-11 repetitions of pattern on row. Repeat the next 4 rows in diagram until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
At the same time when piece measures 4-5-6-7 cm / 1½"-2"-2½"-2 3/4", inc 1 dc in each side - READ INCREASE TIP.
Repeat inc every 3-6-10-10 cm / 1"-2½"-4"-4" 4-2-1-1 more time – work the inc sts only in dc. Continue the pattern until piece measures 20-21-23-24 cm / 8"-8 1/4"-9"-9½", do not cut the yarn - continue with edge piece.

EDGE PIECE:
Beg by working 1 row with sc at the top along back piece - work 71-76-79-85 sc evenly, continue with 36-38-41-43 LOOSE ch (= armhole), then work 1 sc in every sc along bottom edge of back piece but skip 8-9-10-12 sc evenly (= 57-64-71-77 sc), continue with 36-38-41-43 LOOSE ch (= armhole), fasten with 1 sl st in first sc at the top of back piece = 200-216-232-248 sts in total, cut the yarn. Then beg all rounds in the middle at the top on back piece.
ROUND 1:
Beg with 1 sl st in middle sc, then work as follows: * ch 3, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* around the entire bolero and until mid back again, finish round with 3 ch and 1 sl st in first sl st from beg of round = 100-108-116-124 ch-spaces on round.
ROUND 2:
Work 1 sl st + 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
Then work as 2nd round until edge measures approx. 5-6-7-8 cm / 2"-2½"-2 3/4"-3".
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS:
Work 1 sl st + 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
Continue like this with 3 and 4 ch in every ch-space alternately until edge measures approx. 9-10-11-12 cm / 3½"-4"-4½"-4 3/4".
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS:
Work 2 sl sts + 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
Continue with 4 ch in every ch-space until edge measures approx. 12-13-15-17 cm / 4 3/4"-5"-6"-6 3/4".
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS:
Work 2 sl sts + 1 sc in first ch-space, * ch 5, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 4, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
Continue like this with 4 and 5 ch in every ch-space alternately until edge measures approx. 15-17-19-21 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4".
WORK NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS:
Work sl sts until middle of first ch-space (this should be a 5-ch-space) - also see diagram A.2, this round is marker with 1 arrow in diagram: ch 6, 1 dc in same ch-space, * 3 dc in 4-ch-space, 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc in next 5-ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 3 dc in last 4-ch-space and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
WORK NEXT TO LAST ROUND AS FOLLOWS:
3 ch + 4 dc in first 3-ch-space, * ch 1, 1 dc in the middle of the 3 dc worked in 4-ch-space from previous round, ch 1, 5 dc in next 3-ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with ch 1, 1 dc in the middle of the last 3 dc, 1 ch and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
WORK LAST ROUND AS FOLLOWS:
* ch 3, 1 dc in the first ch made, skip first dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, 2 dc in the first ch made, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, 1 dc in the first ch made, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next ch, skip dc between dc-groups, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first ch from beg of round. Fasten off. Edge measures approx. 20-22-24-26 cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9½"-10 1/4".

EDGE AROUND ARMHOLES:
Along the armhole on back piece work as follows: 1 sl st in first dc, * ch 3, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-*, along front piece work as follows: * ch 3, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-*, finish with ch 3 and 1 sl st in first sl st from beg of round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 sc
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = ch 3, 1 dc in the first of the 3 ch
symbols = ch 3, 2 dc in the first of the 3 ch
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 145-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (47)

country flag Marie Louise Christensen 01.11.2017 - 16:40:

Jeg kan ikke forstå, hvorfor jeg i kantstykket skal lave en kædemaske og så en kædemaske og en fastmaske? Overgangen bliver ikke usynlig. Hvorfor kan man ikke bare sætte et mærke og så køre videre? Det kan jeg bare gøre, men jeg vil da lige høre jer ad først.

user icon DROPS Design 15.11.2017 kl. 14:07:

Hej Marie Louise, ellers vil overgangen automatisk flytte sig fra omgang til omgang og derved blive lidt skæv. Men som du skriver er det jo en smags sag, så du må gerne bare fortsætte rundt hvis du vil det :)

country flag MC 09.02.2016 - 14:13:

Beste, Een pracht van een bolero waar ik meteen aan begonnen ben, maar..vanaf (Herhaal dit meerderen elke 3-6-10-10 cm 4-2-1-nog 1 keer) loop ik vast. Als er stond: 4-2-1-1 keer, dan zou ik het snappen. Door het woordje -nog- twijfel ik. Ik doe meerderen na elke 6 cm en dat 2x...heb ik dit juist? Graag uw reactie en alvast bedankt. Met vriendelijke groet, MC

user icon DROPS Design 09.02.2016 kl. 16:30:

Hoi MC. Het is een fout in de vertaling. Het moet "nog 4-2-1-1 keer" zijn. Het patroon is aangepast. Veel haakplezier verder.

country flag Pernilla Johansson Wallin 08.02.2016 - 12:56:

Älskar mönstret, men saknar storlek 34. Hur ska jag göra för att få den anpassad till min storlek? Tack på förhand

user icon DROPS Design 26.02.2016 kl. 09:11:

Hej. Vi har dessvärre inte möjlighet att anpassa mönster, men det kan hända att din återförsäljare kan hjälpa dig med detta. Med vänlig hälsning DROPS Design

country flag Elizabeth Baker 19.12.2015 - 17:52:

Size XXL Aftter round two on the edge piece I end up with 15 chain spaces, is this correct?

country flag Sharon 15.05.2015 - 17:13:

I'm having difficulties with the Vivien bolero pattern as my stitch count is very different from that stated on the pattern. To make the second size, L/XL I started with 85 chain to end up with the 73 dc as per pattern. This finishes up as 79 after the increases are made. Following the section "edge piece" I have 79 not 76 dc. After the 38 chain for the armhole I get the 64 dc by decreasing the 73 original worked chain by 9.

country flag Rosa Bruna Ricciardi 17.02.2015 - 12:28:

Bello anche in cotone,ne ho realizzati 3, 1in cotone.

country flag STEPH DOS 06.02.2015 - 09:53:

Tout d'abord merci pour vos superbes modèles. J'ai commencé ce boléro mais je ne comprends pas comment faire les augmentations (taille s/m). Pouvez-vous m'expliquer comment augmenter pour l'avant dernier rang du graphique A.1. Merci.

user icon DROPS Design 06.02.2015 kl. 11:34:

Bonjour Mme Dos et merci. Pour augmenter 1 B de chaque côté, crochetez simplement 2 B dans la 2ème B du début du rang et 2 B dans l'avant dernière B à la fin du rang. Continuez ensuite A.1 comme avant (vous aurez d'abord 3 B de chaque côté, puis 4 B et ainsi de suite). Bon crochet!

country flag Juliane 18.08.2014 - 21:07:

Hallo. Tolles Modell. Ich überlege gerade wie das Randteil beginnen soll: am oberen Ende des Rückenteils (in S) habe ich nach der regelmäßigen Zunahme 75 Maschen? Ist das richtig? Anfangs habe ich mit 65 Maschen begonnen und dann insgesamt 5 Mal 2 Stb pro R zugenommen. Was ist mit "gleichmäßig verteilt 71 fM" gemeint? Muss ich irgendwo 4 Maschen überspringen? Ich hoffe meine Fragen sind verständlich. Viele Grüße

user icon DROPS Design 19.08.2014 kl. 09:49:

Liebe Juliane, die Zunahmen haben Sie richtig gemacht. Es ist nicht genau angegeben, wie Sie die 71 fM häkeln sollen, denn Sie enden ja mit irgendeiner R von A.1 und die Reihen von A.1 haben nicht alle die gleiche M-Zahl (wenn Sie alle Stb und Lm zählen). Es geht nun darum, dass Sie in Ihre letzte R von A.1 71 fM häkeln, gleichmäßig verteilt heißt, dass Sie in regelmäßigen Abständen Stb/Lm überspringen, denn Sie haben ja mehr Stb und Lm als 71.

Gina 08.08.2014 - 14:16:

Voorpand = Rand

country flag Edith Hoekstra 07.08.2014 - 17:53:

Ik mis de beschrijving van het voorpand in dit patroon....

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