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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Vests
  4. DROPS
  5. 145
  6. 4

Leona by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS vest with fan pattern in ”Paris”. Size S-XXXL.

Keywords: fan pattern, sleeveless, top, v-neck, vest

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DROPS 145-4
DROPS design: Pattern no w-458
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-104-120-128 cm /
31½"-34½"-37¾"-41"-47¼"-50½"
Full length: 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm /
25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''

Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g color no 30, denim blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 6 mm / J/10 – or size needed to get 2.5 tr-groups in diagram A.1 = width 10 cm / 4'' and 11 sc/dc = width 10 cm / 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 2 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton 		from 1.60 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.85 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.60 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.20$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2 (diagrams A.3 and A.4 show dec for armhole in size XXL + XXXL).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 sc by working 2 sc in same st.

DECREASE TIP (dec 1 sc):
Work 1 sc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next sc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 sc dec.
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VEST:
Read US/UK above! Worked back and forth from mid front.
With Paris ch 189-204-219-242-264-287 on hook size 6 mm / J/10, turn.
ROW 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 2 ch *, repeat from *-* until 4-4-4-3-4-3 ch remain, skip next ch and finish with 1 sc in each of the last 3-3-3-2-3-2 ch = 126-136-146-161-176-191 sc on row, turn piece.
ROW 2: ch 1, then work 1 sc in every sc from previous row = 126-136-146-161-176-191 sc, turn piece.
ROW 3: Work as 2nd row.
ROW 4: Then work pattern according to diagram A.1, i.e. ch 5 (= 1 tr + 1 ch), * skip 4 sc, in next sc work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* until 5 sc remain, skip 4 sc and finish with ch 1 and 1 tr in last sc = 24-26-28-31-34-37 tr-groups, turn piece.
ROW 5: ch 5, in ch-space in every tr-group work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr, finish row with 1 ch and 1 tr in 4th ch on beg of previous row = 24-26-28-31-34-37 tr-groups, turn piece.

Repeat 5th row until piece measures approx. 16 cm / 6 1/4''. Work next row as follows: ch 4 (= 1 tr), in ch-space in the middle of every tr-group work 2 tr + ch 1 (instead of 2 ch) + 2 tr, finish row with 1 tr in 4th ch from beg of previous row = 24-26-28-31-34-37 tr-groups, turn piece.
Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, then work 1 sc in every tr the entire row, finish with 1 sc in 4th ch from beg of previous row, turn piece = 98-106-114-126-138-150 sc.
Continue to work as follows:
ROW 1: Work pattern according to diagram A.2, i.e. work ch 1, then work 1 sc in every sc the entire row AT THE SAME TIME dec 18-18-18-18-14-14 sc evenly – READ DECREASE TIP = 80-88-96-108-124-136 sc, turn piece.
ROW 2: 3 ch (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc in every sc the entire row = 80-88-96-108-124-136 dc on row.
ROW 3-5: Work as 2nd row = 80-88-96-108-124-136 dc.
ROW 6: Work 1 sc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts as follows: Size S + M + L + XL + XXL: Inc 5-9-5-5-5 sc evenly – READ INCREASE TIP. Size XXXL: Dec 3 sts evenly – READ DECREASE TIP = 85-97-101-113-129-133 sc, turn piece.
ROW 7: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, then work 1 sc in every sc from previous row = 85-97-101-113-129-133 sc, turn piece.
ROW 8: ch 5, * skip 3 sc, in next sc work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* until 4 sc remain on row, skip 3 sc and finish with 1 ch and 1 tr in last sc on row = 20-23-24-27-31-32 tr-groups on row, turn piece.
ROW 9: Then work pattern according to diagram A.1 again, i.e. ch 5, in ch-space in the middle of every tr-group work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr, finish row with ch 1 and 1 tr in 4th ch on beg of previous row = 20-23-24-27-31-32 tr-group.
Repeat 9th row upwards.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'', divide for markers as follows: Insert 1 marker after 5-6-6-7-8-8 tr-groups in from each side (= 10-11-12-13-15-16 tr-groups between markers on back piece). Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 10-11-12-13-15-16 tr-groups. Continue back and forth with tr-groups as shown in A.1. AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec for armholes in each side in size XXL + XXXL as follows: Dec 1 tr-group on beg of row as shown in A.3, work as before until 1 tr-group remains on row, finish row as shown in A.4 (do not dec in the other sizes) = 10-11-12-13-13-14 tr-groups remain on row. Continue pattern back and forth until 1 row remains before piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''.
Now work 1 row with tr-groups only over the outermost 3-4-4-5-5-5 tr-groups in the one side of piece: ch 5, * in ch-space in the middle of next tr-group work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-5-5 times in total, finish with 1 tr in last tr in same tr-group, turn piece.
Now work 1 row sc as follows: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, * 1 sc in each of the first 2 tr, 1 sc in ch-space in the middle of tr-group, 1 sc in each of the next 2 tr *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-5-5 times in total, finish with 1 sc in last ch and 1 sc in 4th ch from beg of previous row = 18-23-23-28-28-28 sc on row.
Fasten off. Repeat on the other shoulder (i.e. do not work over the middle 4-3-4-3-3-4 tr-groups = neck.)

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 5-6-6-7-8-8 tr-groups. Continue back and forth with tr-groups as on back piece.
AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec for armhole in the side in size XXL + XXXL as shown in A.4 (do not dec in the other sizes) = 5-6-6-7-7-7 tr-groups.
Continue pattern back and forth until piece measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'' - make sure that same no of rows with tr-groups has been worked as on back piece.
Now work 1 row sc as on back piece only over the outermost 3-4-4-5-5-5 tr-groups on shoulder (i.e. do not work over the 2 tr-groups towards the neck = collar) = 18-23-23-28-28-28 sc. Fasten off. Insert 1 marker on the shoulder.
Now work tr-groups back and forth over collar as follows: ch 5, in ch-space in first tr-group work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr, in ch-space in next tr-group work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr, ch 1 and finish with 1 tr in last tr in same tr-group.
Continue back and forth like this until collar measures approx. 10-8-10-8-8-10 cm / 4"-3 1/8"-4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-4" from marker on shoulder.
Then work 1 row sc as follows: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in next ch, 1 sc in each of the first 2 tr, 1 sc in ch-space in the middle of tr-group, 1 sc in each of the next 2 tr *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, finish with 1 sc in last ch and 1 sc in 4th ch from beg of previous row = 14 sc, cut the yarn.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. When dec for armhole in size XXL + XXXL, dec 1 tr-group as shown in A.3.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Sew collar tog mid back (sew edge to edge) and sew it on to neck line at the back of neck.
Sew on buttons on right front piece – see picture.
Button through the crochet edge explained below.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work a finishing edge around the entire opening on vest and around both armholes as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 5, skip approx. 2½ cm / 7/8'', 1 sc in next st/ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 5 and 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 sl st
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sc
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 tr
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 145-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (189)

country flag Sonja wrote:

Die Anleitung ist generell nicht sehr einfach, aber die Beschreibung zum Kragen ist absolut unverständlich, weil es nicht mal kein Bild dazu gibt.

26.08.2023 - 17:50

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sonja, für den Kragen häkeln Sie nur die ersten Doppelstäbchen-Gruppen bis dieses Teil 8 oder 10 cm misst, dieses Bändchen häkeln Sie genauso bei beiden Vorderteilen, dann sind sie beide zusammen angenäht (letzte Reihe zusammen), und dann am Halsausschnitt bei dem Rückenteil nähen. In diesem Video zeigen wir, wie so ein Schalkragen gestrickt wird, vielleicht kann es Ihnen helfen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

28.08.2023 - 14:00

country flag Angelika Berndt wrote:

Weiß nicht wieviel Luftmaschen ich für das rechte Westentasche anschauen soll. Danke

18.04.2023 - 18:49

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Berndt, die Weste wird von unten nach oben in einem Stück bis Armlöcher gehäkelt, je nach der Größe häkeln Sie 189 bis 287 Luftmaschen (= 126 bis 191 fM nach der 1. Reihe) dann häkeln Sie die Diagramme wie erklärt bis die Arbeit für die Armlöcher geteilt wird, und jedes Teil wird dann bis zur Schulter separat fertig gehäkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

19.04.2023 - 07:48

country flag Angelika Berndt wrote:

Komme mit der Anleitung der Weste für linkes und rechtes Vorderteil nicht klar. Weil keine Maschenanzahl zur Aufnahme da bei steht. Soll ich die Hälfte vom Rückenteil aufnehmen ? Oder Danke Mfg. Angelika

18.04.2023 - 16:32

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Berndt, Rückenteil wird über die mittleren 10-11-12-13-15-16 D-Stb-Gruppen gehäkelt, und jedes Vorderteil über die beidseitigen 5-6-6-7-8-8 D-Stb-Gruppen. In die 2 grösseren Größe wird man für Armausschnitt abnehmen, aber nicht in die anderen Größen; dh häkeln Sie wie erklärt unter RÜCKENTEIL, dann RECHTES VORDERTEIL:; und LINKES VORDERTEIL: . Sollte ich Ihre Frage misverstehen, können Sie vielleicht dann mehr sagen, was Sie hier meinen? Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

18.04.2023 - 16:49

country flag Karin wrote:

Hej, Jag har gjort bakstycket men förstår inte var, och hur, jag ska börja med höger framstycke. Ska jag virka det direkt på bakstycket? I så fall, var och hur börjar jag? Eller ska det virkas helt fristående och sys på bakstycket i efterhand?

29.01.2022 - 19:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Karin, de første 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm er hæklet som forstykker og bagstykke i et, når du nu deler til ærmegab hækler du først sidste del af bagstykket og så forstykkerne for sig. God fornøjelse!

03.02.2022 - 14:25

country flag Seija Nilsson wrote:

Hej, jag undrar om framstycket på västen leona. Det står , =5 6 6 7 8 dst -grupper. Var börjar jag med framstycket? Ska de göras separat eller? Jag avslutade ju alla styckerna med 5 dst. Önskar snabbt svar. Mvh Rådvill.

31.05.2021 - 13:58

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Seija, du avslutade när arb mäter 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm, som du delade det för ärmhål så här: sätt 1 markör efter 5-6-6-7-8-8 dst-grupper in från varje sida (= 10-11-12-13-15-16 dst-grupper mellan markörerna på bakst). Varje del virkas sedan för sig. Det är de 5-6-6-7-8-8 dst-grupper du börjar med under HÖGER FRAMST. :)

02.06.2021 - 11:54

country flag Lilia Orozco wrote:

Buenos dias. Me encanta el chaleco. me puede hacer el favor de decirme con cuantas cadenetas se empieza.? este se comienza por abajo o por el hombro

11.05.2021 - 19:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Lilia, se empieza con 189-204-219-242-264-287 cadenetas (el numero depende de tu talla). El chaleco se comienza por abajo. Buen trabajo!

13.05.2021 - 17:02

country flag Humera wrote:

Can you plz give me some pictures of the neckline. I cant understand how the collar and the back neckline should be. In the given picture the neckline is coverd by the girl's hair. I am having a hard time imagining it.

12.01.2021 - 16:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Humera, we do not have more fotos sorry. Just work the collar over the first stitches towards mid front as explained. These stitches should be worked until this small piece measures 8 or 10 cm depending on the size, then work the last row with double crochets (UK-English crochet terms). Work same band at the end of 2nd front piece; Sew the last row on both bands together (mid back) and then sew these band along neck on back piece. Happy crocheting!

12.01.2021 - 16:58

country flag AISHWARYA wrote:

Hey Thank you so much for your quick help. One more doubt- so the right collar and left collar will be stitched together and then the whole collar will be stitched to neckline? Thank you. Have a nice day.

15.09.2020 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Aishwarya, correct, this video shows a knitted collar that is worked the same way as here, ie a small extention of both front pieces sewn together then along neckline on back piece. Happy crocheting!

16.09.2020 - 08:25

country flag Gunjan wrote:

Hey Thank you for such a beautiful pattern. Back shoulder pattern length will be- 1row less to 68cm and 4tr groups above. And front pattern length will be 68cm except collar. So the length of both won't be same? Then how to join this two pieces? Please help me with this. Thank you.

15.09.2020 - 16:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gunjan, you have to adjust to the same row as on back piece, so that shoulders are the same. Happy crocheting!

15.09.2020 - 17:11

country flag Aishwarya wrote:

Hi Can you advise for left piece will it be innermost 4tr and outermost 2tr for collar? Also can you advise how to stitch all parts together in detail. Thank you for your help.

15.09.2020 - 15:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Aishwarya , on left front piece you will crochet the 4 tr-groups towards shoulder for the shoulder (= on the left side of piece, seen from RS) and over the 2-tr-groups towards mid front (on the left side of piece, seen from RS) - all same way as on right front piece, just reversed = mirrored. Happy crocheting!

15.09.2020 - 15:49

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