DROPS / 145 / 4

Leona by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS vest with fan pattern in ”Paris”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no w-458
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-104-120-128 cm /
31½"-34½"-37¾"-41"-47¼"-50½"
Full length: 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm /
25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''

Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g color no 30, denim blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 6 mm / J/10 – or size needed to get 2.5 tr-groups in diagram A.1 = width 10 cm / 4'' and 11 sc/dc = width 10 cm / 4''.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 2 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2 (diagrams A.3 and A.4 show dec for armhole in size XXL + XXXL).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 sc by working 2 sc in same st.

DECREASE TIP (dec 1 sc):
Work 1 sc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next sc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 sc dec.
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VEST:
Read US/UK above! Worked back and forth from mid front.
With Paris ch 189-204-219-242-264-287 on hook size 6 mm / J/10, turn.
ROW 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 2 ch *, repeat from *-* until 4-4-4-3-4-3 ch remain, skip next ch and finish with 1 sc in each of the last 3-3-3-2-3-2 ch = 126-136-146-161-176-191 sc on row, turn piece.
ROW 2: ch 1, then work 1 sc in every sc from previous row = 126-136-146-161-176-191 sc, turn piece.
ROW 3: Work as 2nd row.
ROW 4: Then work pattern according to diagram A.1, i.e. ch 5 (= 1 tr + 1 ch), * skip 4 sc, in next sc work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* until 5 sc remain, skip 4 sc and finish with ch 1 and 1 tr in last sc = 24-26-28-31-34-37 tr-groups, turn piece.
ROW 5: ch 5, in ch-space in every tr-group work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr, finish row with 1 ch and 1 tr in 4th ch on beg of previous row = 24-26-28-31-34-37 tr-groups, turn piece.

Repeat 5th row until piece measures approx. 16 cm / 6 1/4''. Work next row as follows: ch 4 (= 1 tr), in ch-space in the middle of every tr-group work 2 tr + ch 1 (instead of 2 ch) + 2 tr, finish row with 1 tr in 4th ch from beg of previous row = 24-26-28-31-34-37 tr-groups, turn piece.
Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, then work 1 sc in every tr the entire row, finish with 1 sc in 4th ch from beg of previous row, turn piece = 98-106-114-126-138-150 sc.
Continue to work as follows:
ROW 1: Work pattern according to diagram A.2, i.e. work ch 1, then work 1 sc in every sc the entire row AT THE SAME TIME dec 18-18-18-18-14-14 sc evenly – READ DECREASE TIP = 80-88-96-108-124-136 sc, turn piece.
ROW 2: 3 ch (= 1 dc), then work 1 dc in every sc the entire row = 80-88-96-108-124-136 dc on row.
ROW 3-5: Work as 2nd row = 80-88-96-108-124-136 dc.
ROW 6: Work 1 sc in every dc AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts as follows: Size S + M + L + XL + XXL: Inc 5-9-5-5-5 sc evenly – READ INCREASE TIP. Size XXXL: Dec 3 sts evenly – READ DECREASE TIP = 85-97-101-113-129-133 sc, turn piece.
ROW 7: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, then work 1 sc in every sc from previous row = 85-97-101-113-129-133 sc, turn piece.
ROW 8: ch 5, * skip 3 sc, in next sc work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* until 4 sc remain on row, skip 3 sc and finish with 1 ch and 1 tr in last sc on row = 20-23-24-27-31-32 tr-groups on row, turn piece.
ROW 9: Then work pattern according to diagram A.1 again, i.e. ch 5, in ch-space in the middle of every tr-group work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr, finish row with ch 1 and 1 tr in 4th ch on beg of previous row = 20-23-24-27-31-32 tr-group.
Repeat 9th row upwards.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'', divide for markers as follows: Insert 1 marker after 5-6-6-7-8-8 tr-groups in from each side (= 10-11-12-13-15-16 tr-groups between markers on back piece). Finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 10-11-12-13-15-16 tr-groups. Continue back and forth with tr-groups as shown in A.1. AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec for armholes in each side in size XXL + XXXL as follows: Dec 1 tr-group on beg of row as shown in A.3, work as before until 1 tr-group remains on row, finish row as shown in A.4 (do not dec in the other sizes) = 10-11-12-13-13-14 tr-groups remain on row. Continue pattern back and forth until 1 row remains before piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''.
Now work 1 row with tr-groups only over the outermost 3-4-4-5-5-5 tr-groups in the one side of piece: ch 5, * in ch-space in the middle of next tr-group work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-5-5 times in total, finish with 1 tr in last tr in same tr-group, turn piece.
Now work 1 row sc as follows: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, * 1 sc in each of the first 2 tr, 1 sc in ch-space in the middle of tr-group, 1 sc in each of the next 2 tr *, repeat from *-* 3-4-4-5-5-5 times in total, finish with 1 sc in last ch and 1 sc in 4th ch from beg of previous row = 18-23-23-28-28-28 sc on row.
Fasten off. Repeat on the other shoulder (i.e. do not work over the middle 4-3-4-3-3-4 tr-groups = neck.)

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 5-6-6-7-8-8 tr-groups. Continue back and forth with tr-groups as on back piece.
AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec for armhole in the side in size XXL + XXXL as shown in A.4 (do not dec in the other sizes) = 5-6-6-7-7-7 tr-groups.
Continue pattern back and forth until piece measures approx. 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm / 25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8'' - make sure that same no of rows with tr-groups has been worked as on back piece.
Now work 1 row sc as on back piece only over the outermost 3-4-4-5-5-5 tr-groups on shoulder (i.e. do not work over the 2 tr-groups towards the neck = collar) = 18-23-23-28-28-28 sc. Fasten off. Insert 1 marker on the shoulder.
Now work tr-groups back and forth over collar as follows: ch 5, in ch-space in first tr-group work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr, in ch-space in next tr-group work 2 tr + ch 2 + 2 tr, ch 1 and finish with 1 tr in last tr in same tr-group.
Continue back and forth like this until collar measures approx. 10-8-10-8-8-10 cm / 4"-3 1/8"-4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-4" from marker on shoulder.
Then work 1 row sc as follows: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in next ch, 1 sc in each of the first 2 tr, 1 sc in ch-space in the middle of tr-group, 1 sc in each of the next 2 tr *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, finish with 1 sc in last ch and 1 sc in 4th ch from beg of previous row = 14 sc, cut the yarn.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. When dec for armhole in size XXL + XXXL, dec 1 tr-group as shown in A.3.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Sew collar tog mid back (sew edge to edge) and sew it on to neck line at the back of neck.
Sew on buttons on right front piece – see picture.
Button through the crochet edge explained below.

CROCHET EDGE:
Work a finishing edge around the entire opening on vest and around both armholes as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 5, skip approx. 2½ cm / 7/8'', 1 sc in next st/ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with ch 5 and 1 sl st in sc from beg of round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 sl st
= 1 ch
= 1 sc
= 1 dc
= 1 tr


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 145-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (182)

AISHWARYA 15.09.2020 - 17:16:

Hey Thank you so much for your quick help. One more doubt- so the right collar and left collar will be stitched together and then the whole collar will be stitched to neckline? Thank you. Have a nice day.

DROPS Design 16.09.2020 kl. 08:25:

Dear Aishwarya, correct, this video shows a knitted collar that is worked the same way as here, ie a small extention of both front pieces sewn together then along neckline on back piece. Happy crocheting!

Gunjan 15.09.2020 - 16:52:

Hey Thank you for such a beautiful pattern. Back shoulder pattern length will be- 1row less to 68cm and 4tr groups above. And front pattern length will be 68cm except collar. So the length of both won't be same? Then how to join this two pieces? Please help me with this. Thank you.

DROPS Design 15.09.2020 kl. 17:11:

Dear Mrs Gunjan, you have to adjust to the same row as on back piece, so that shoulders are the same. Happy crocheting!

Aishwarya 15.09.2020 - 15:38:

Hi Can you advise for left piece will it be innermost 4tr and outermost 2tr for collar? Also can you advise how to stitch all parts together in detail. Thank you for your help.

DROPS Design 15.09.2020 kl. 15:49:

Dear Aishwarya , on left front piece you will crochet the 4 tr-groups towards shoulder for the shoulder (= on the left side of piece, seen from RS) and over the 2-tr-groups towards mid front (on the left side of piece, seen from RS) - all same way as on right front piece, just reversed = mirrored. Happy crocheting!

Aishwarya 15.09.2020 - 15:36:

Hi I need help with front right piece. I have crochet till 68cm and SC row on outermost 4tr. So this number of rows will be same as back piece? I understood that balance 2tr will be used for collar. Do i need to crochet this 2tr until measures 10cm? And will be stitched to back of neckline? If we fold the collar then won't the fan pattern will be opposite? Thank you for your help.

DROPS Design 15.09.2020 kl. 15:47:

Dear Aishwarya, on right front piece, you work over the 4 tr-groups (not 4 tr) = 23 sc for the shoulder. Now you work over collar piece = 5 ch, 2 tr +2 ch + 2 tr in next ch-space, 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr in next ch sp = 2 tr-groups for 10 cm - you will then work the same collar piece (= towards mid front) on left front piece then sew the last row together and sew the collar along neckline on back piece. Happy crocheting!

Aishwarya 09.09.2020 - 18:01:

Hii I didn't understood the back piece construction after placing markers. Can you please explain in detail. Like how only crochet 4 tr from each side etc. Also can I have image to understand better? Help is much appreciated since I am in the middle of vest. Thank you so much

DROPS Design 10.09.2020 kl. 09:24:

Dear Aishwarya, when 1 row remains before piece measures 66-68 cm (see size), you will crochet the shoulders separately leaving the middle 3-4 tr-groups unworked for neck, ie work: ch5, * in ch-space in the middle of next tr-group work 2 tr+ch2+2 tr *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, finish with tr in last tr in same tr-group, turn piece, work ch1, 1sc in same st, * 1sc in each of the first 2tr, 1sc in ch-space in the middle of tr-group, 1sc in each of the next 2tr *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, finish with 1sc in last ch and 1sc in 4th ch from beg of previous row = 23sc. Work now 2nd shoulder same way over the 4 tr-groups on the other side of back piece. Happy crocheting!

Victoria Harris 25.08.2020 - 03:36:

I have a sizing query. I am a 44” bust. Do the diagram bust measurements relate to the entire circumference (ie includes the gap of the V-neck) or just the actual fabric (V-neck round to other side of V-neck, excluding the gap at the front). I’m trying to work out which size to make. Thank you.

DROPS Design 25.08.2020 kl. 08:38:

Hi Victoria, The measurements in the diagram are from one side to the other, so need to be doubled for your bust size. Happy crocheting!

Elouise 26.07.2020 - 03:11:

I'm trying to follow the pattern but I'm confused about the treble, do I put yarn round hook twice or once?

DROPS Design 29.07.2020 kl. 10:49:

Dear Elouise, if you are following UK-English pattern, a treble is worked with 1 yarn over (see video) but if you are following the pattern in US-English, a treble should be worked with 2 yarn overs (see video). Make sure to select the appropriate language! Happy crocheting!

Tatjana 31.05.2019 - 21:34:

Hallo und einem schönen guten Abend. Ich hab da mal eine frage, wieviel Wolle Drops Paris brauche ich bei XL?? Liebe Grüße Tatjana 🙃

DROPS Design 03.06.2019 kl. 08:24:

Liebe Tatjana, im Kopfteil finden Sie die Garnmenge für jede Größe - mehr über die Garnmenge hier lesen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Barbara Sell 25.10.2018 - 19:26:

I don't understand what you mean by until 4-4-4-3-4-3 then 1 sc until 3-3-3-2-3-2 ch remain.

DROPS Design 26.10.2018 kl. 08:15:

Hi Barbara, The numbers correspond to the sizes S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL, so if (for example) you are working Size S you use the first number in all the series. Happy crocheting!

Debbie 09.05.2018 - 02:38:

I love this pattern. But I don't understand it.. after row 5 Im lost. Can you help me understand it.

DROPS Design 09.05.2018 kl. 08:53:

Dear Debbie, after you have worked row 5, repeat this row until piece measures approx. 16 cm / 6 1/4'' then work next row as explained and continue following A.2 as described. For any individual assistance reading diagrams and/or pattern please contact the store where you bought your yarn (even per mail, telephone or via social medias). Happy crocheting!

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