DROPS / 148 / 1

Daybreak by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket worked in a circle with lace pattern in "Alpaca" and "Kid-Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no z-642
Yarn group A + A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL /XXXL

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
300-350-400 g color no 3112, dusty pink
and use: DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-175 g color no 03, light pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES size 6 mm / US 10 (60 and 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') - or size needed to get 15 sts x 19 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 51.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

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JACKET WORKED IN A CIRCLE:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back. First work on double pointed needles, then switch to circular needle when needed.

Cast on 12 sts with 1 strand of each yarn and distribute them on 4 double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME working 2 sts in all sts = 24 sts. K 1 round without inc. On next round, work as follows: * K 1, K 2 in next st *, repeat from *-* = 36 sts. Then work according to diagram A.1 (= 6 repetitions in the round). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Switch to circular needle when needed.
When A.1 has been worked, there are 234 sts on needle. Insert 1 marker in each of the tips on the star (in the middle st in every repetition) = 6 markers in total.
Work in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st on each side of markers. Inc with 1 YO on each side of sts with marker – on next round K yo twisted to avoid holes = 12 inc sts per round.
Repeat inc every other round 1-2-3 more times (24-36-48 inc sts in total) = 258-270-282 sts (42-44-46 sts between every st with marker).
Then work 2 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above - over all sts, without inc.
On next round K while AT THE SAME TIME bind off all sts between 1st and 2nd marker, bind off the middle 32-34-36 sts between 2nd and 3rd marker and the middle 32-34-36 sts between 6th and 1st marker for armhole.
P next round, AT THE SAME TIME pick up 1 new st in every bound off st between 1st and 2nd marker, and cast on 32-34-36 new sts over the bind off sts between 2nd and 3rd marker and 6th and 1st marker. (Sts between 1st and 2nd marker is equivalent to the shoulder width at the top.
To avoid the shoulder width being to wide, bind off these sts and pick them up again on next row.
This will stop the piece from being to long over the shoulder.) When all sts have been cast on/knitted up, there are 258-270-282 sts on needle. Work 1 ridge.
Piece measures approx. 31-32-33 cm / 12 1/4"-12½"-13" from the middle.

Then work in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st each side of sts with markers (= 12 inc). Inc with YO (work twisted on next round to avoid holes).
Repeat inc every other round 9-11-13 more times (10-12-14 inc in total) = 378-414-450 sts.

Keep sts between 2nd and 4th marker on needle, slip the other sts on a stitch holder = 125-137-149 sts on needle.
Then work in stockinette st back and forth over sts on needle, AT THE SAME TIME at the end of every row slip the last 4 sts on stitch holder (do not work them, turn), continue until 37-49-61 sts remain on row.
Slip the last 37-49-61 sts on stitch holder. Slip sts between 5th and 1st marker on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10, work the same way as in the other side.
Then K all sts from RS back on to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 - between every time sts where slipped on stitch holders in each side, get the yarn and twist it before slipping it on needle (i.e. between every 4th st, to avoid holes in the transitions), in addition inc evenly so that there are 452-496-540 sts in total on needle.

Work 2 ridges. Then work according to A.2.
Work A.2 A, repeat A.2 B until 2 sts remain and end with A.2 C.
Work A.2 for 6 cm / 2 3/8'', work 1 ridge and bind off.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 36-38-40 sts on double pointed needles size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand of each yarn. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Work 2 ridges.
Continue in stockinette st.
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st on each side of marker mid under.
Repeat inc every 4-3½-3 cm / 1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/8" 10-11-13 more times (11-12-14 inc in total) = 58-62-68 sts.
When piece measures 53-54-56 cm / 21"-21 1/4"-22", bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve and work back and forth until finished measurements.
Then bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 3 times = 34-38-44 sts.
Bind off the remaining sts, sleeve measures approx. 56-57-59 cm / 22"-22½"-23 1/4". Sew in sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.10.2014
Correction 148-1:
under JACKET WORKED IN A CIRCLE (new: ..42-44-46 sts between every ST WITH marker):

.... Repeat inc every other round 1-2-3 more times (24-36-48 inc sts in total) = 258-270-282 sts (42-44-46 sts between every st with marker). Then work 2 ridges in GARTER ST...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 1 from cable needle
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
= slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 1, K 1 from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 148-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (276)

Barbara 09.08.2019 - 09:42:

Oh, vielen Dank für die schnelle AntWort. Das hat mir sehr geholfen. 👍🏻

Barbara 05.08.2019 - 19:06:

Hallo, ich stricke die Jacke mit einem anderen Garn. Dir Maschenprobe kam knapp hin. Jetzt kommt mir der Kreis mit dem Stern etwas klein vor. Mit der Zeichnung mit den Maßen kann ich nicht viel anfangen. Verstehe ich es richtig, dass der Durchmesser 37-38-39 cm sein muss? Ich danke sehr für die Hilfe Viele Grüße Barbara

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 11:11:

Liebe Barbara, die 37-38-39 cm in der Maßskizze sind zwischen den beiden Armlöchern (oben am Rückenteil) flach gemessen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Simone 26.04.2019 - 07:38:

Hallo, können sie mir bitte sagen,ob in der Strickschrift Hin- und Rückreihen angegeben sind!

DROPS Design 26.04.2019 kl. 09:28:

Liebe Simone, die Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen, dh da Sie in Runden Stricken, lesen Sie jede Reihe rechts nach links. Mehr über Diagramme lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anne Margrethe Cortsen 14.09.2018 - 09:22:

Hei, Kan jeg felle av med I-cord bind off? Passer denne type felling på så tynt garn?

Anne Margrethe Cortsen 10.09.2018 - 13:48:

Hei, strikker oppskrift 148-1 Daybreak og var ferdig med diagram A1, men fortsettelsen stemmer ikke med antall fra diagrammet og antall masker etter økningen for str L/XL rett etter diagrammet. Her er det ikke mulig å få bilder og nytt diagram. Har prøvd finne litt informasjon om bildene på FB som ikke vises, men kunne ikke finne noe. Så her står jeg fast. Har dere ikke mulighet å sende på mail til meg diagram A1 og A2. Teksten for endringene har jeg fått ut.

DROPS Design 10.09.2018 kl. 14:53:

Hei Anne Margrethe. Vi har for øyeblikket tekniske problemer med siden vår, dette medfører at diagrammer og bilder dessverre ikke lastes ordentlig. Vi jobber med å løse problemet, og siden vil være tilbake som normalt så snart som mulig. Du kan følge med på vår twitter eller facebookside for oppdateringer. Beklager dette

Kaiser 19.04.2018 - 10:02:

Da ich mit dünnerer Wolle stricke habe ich folgende Frage: wie groß ist das Strickstück ungefähr in Grösse L bis ich zu dem Abschnitt komme, wo man zwischen 2.und 4.Markierer die Maschen auf der Nadel behalten soll, und die restlichen Maschen still legen? Danke!

DROPS Design 19.04.2018 kl. 10:40:

Lieber Kaiser, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Geschmack anpassen, gerne können Sie nach der Anleitung bzw Maßskizze, oder Kontakt mit dem Laden aufnehmen, wo Sie Ihre Wolle gekauft haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Margreet 12.04.2018 - 12:40:

Goedemiddag. Ik wil graag het vest Daybreak maken maar ik begrijp het patroon niet helemaal. Is er ook een instructievideo (misschien YouTube) die ik kan volgen? Zou fijn zijn. Vast hartelijk dank.

DROPS Design 16.04.2018 kl. 10:27:

Hallo Margreet, Bij het patroon staan een aantal video's voor verschillende technieken, die je kunt raadplegen. Als je specifieke vragen hebt, ben je altijd welkom om die hier op het forum te stellen. Verder kun je ook hulp vragen bij de winkel waar je het garen hebt gekocht.

Aina Erga 31.03.2018 - 13:59:

Som det tidligere er kommentert; Det er feil i dia.A.1. I siste omg med mønsterstrikk er maskeantallet mellom kastene ulike på hver side av midten. I beg. 1 r, 1 kast, 4 r, 1 kast osv tilsv. På slutten av omg. 1 kast 3 r, 1 kast og 2 rm. Skal ikke det rettes?

DROPS Design 04.04.2018 kl. 13:56:

Hej Aina, nej det betyder ikke noget, om du har 3 eller 4 masker mellem udtagningerne her, eller i overgangen mellem diagrammerne, et af stederne vil du altid få 4 masker (istedet for 3) imellem. Du er naturligvis velkommen til at selv flytte dem :) God fornøjelse!

Dea 16.02.2018 - 14:34:

Grazie, ora mi dice di lavorare avanti e indietro trasferendo 4 m sul fermamaglie ad ogni ferro (ferri accorciati). Devo farlo fin dal primo ferro a diritto?

DROPS Design 16.02.2018 kl. 17:43:

Buonasera Dea. Sì, inizia a trasferire le 4 maglie già dal primo ferro. Buon lavoro!

Dea 15.02.2018 - 17:35:

Devo lavorare dove dice "tenere sui ferri le maglie tra il 2° e il 4° segno, 125 m e mettere le altre in attesa"...devo usare un filo nuovo?

DROPS Design 15.02.2018 kl. 21:44:

Buonasera Dea, meglio usare un nuovo filo per lavorare su quelle maglie. Buon lavoro!

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