DROPS Extra / 0-861

Julius by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS Santa in "BabyMerino".

Tags: christmas, Santa, toys,
DROPS design: Pattern no bm-013
Yarn group A
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Measurements:
Height: approx. 36 cm / 14 1/4''

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g color no 16, red
50 g color no 22, light gray
50 g color no 20, dark gray
Some left-over yarn color no 02, off white
Some left-over yarn color no 21, black

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Accessories: Some poly stuffing for filling

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100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on double pointed needles):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 K rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the next st as follows: Work in front and back loop of same st.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st by K 2 tog.

STRIPES:
Work * 4 rounds light gray, 4 rounds red *, repeat from *-*.
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SANTA:
Worked on double pointed needles. The body, arms and head are worked in one, and the legs and feet are worked in one.

BODY:
Worked in stockinette st in the round on double pointed needles. Worked from the bottom and up to head.
Cast on 40 sts on 4 double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with red.
ROUND 1: * K4 sts, inc 1 st in next st - Read INCREASE TIP above *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 sts (8 sts inc).
ROUND 2: * K5 sts, inc 1 st in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 56 sts.
ROUND 3: * K6 sts, inc 1 st in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 64 sts.
On next round switch to light gray and work STRIPES - see explanation above.
When 5 stripes in light gray have been worked, dec in the piece as follows:
ROUND 1: Switch to red, *K6 sts, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 56 sts (8 sts dec).
ROUND 2-4: K all sts.
ROUND 5: Switch to light gray, K5 sts, K2 tog*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 sts.
ROUND 6-8: K all sts.
ROUND 9: Switch to red, *K4 sts, K2 tog*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 40 sts.
ROUND 10-12: K all sts.
ROUND 13: Switch to light gray, *K3 sts, K2 tog*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 32 sts.
ROUND 14-16: K all sts.
ROUND 17: Switch to red, *K2 sts, K2 tog*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sts.
ROUND 18-20: K all sts.
ROUND 21: Switch to light gray, *K1 st, K2 tog*, repeat from *-* the entire round = 16 sts.
ROUND 22-23: K all sts.
ROUND 24: Bind off the first 2 sts (= armhole), K5 sts, bind off the next 2 sts (= armhole), work the remaining 5 sts = 12 sts remain.
Slip all sts on a stitch holder and put piece aside.

HAND AND ARM:
Worked in one in stockinette st.
The hand is first worked back and forth and then in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 4 sts on 1 double pointed needle with red. On next row inc 1 st in every st = 8 sts.
Then continue to work on 4 double pointed needles in the round as follows: Inc 1 st in every st = 16 sts. Then K all sts for a total of 9 rounds.
On next round, dec as follows: * K2 sts, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 sts.
K all sts for 2 more rounds. On next round switch to light gray and continue with STRIPES.
Continue with stripes until 6 stripes in light gray have been worked - NOTE: Work last round (= 4th round) in light gray as follows: bind off the first 2 sts (= armhole), work the remaining sts on round = 10 sts remain.
Slip all sts on a stitch holder.
Take the cast on yarn tail and pull it through the 4 sts cast on at the edge of hand, tighten tog.
Fill the hand with some poly stuffing and fill the arm with some poly stuffing (until approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' from last round, so that you can bend the arm), put the piece aside.
Knit another hand and arm the same way.

SHOULDER AND HEAD:
Slip sts from stitch holder from body and arms back on needle (bind off against bind off).
Then work the body and arms tog for shoulder with red as follows: K 10 sts from one arm, 6 sts from body, 10 sts from the other arm, 6 sts from body = 32 sts on round. K 1 round. On next round, dec as follows: * K2 sts, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sts (8 sts dec). K another round.
On next round switch to off white (for head) and dec as follows: * K1 st, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 16 sts.
K another round.
Then inc as follows: * K 1 st, inc 1 st in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sts.
Continue to K all sts for 11 more rounds.
Then dec as follows: * K 1 st, dec 1 st *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 16 sts. K all sts for 3 more rounds. Then dec as follows: * K 2 sts, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 sts.
K another round.
Then dec as follows: * K 1 st, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 8 sts, cut the yarn.
Pull yarn tail through the 8 sts, tighten tog.

HAT:
Worked in the round in stockinette st. Cast on 28 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with red.
K all sts for 6 rounds.
Then dec in the piece as follows:
ROUND 1: * K 5 sts, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sts (4 sts dec).
ROUND 2-6: K all sts.
ROUND 7: *K 4 sts, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 20 sts.
ROUND 8-12: K all sts.
ROUND 13: *K 3 sts, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 16 sts.
ROUND 14-18: K all sts.
ROUND 19: *K 2 sts, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 12 sts.
ROUND 20-24: K all sts.
ROUND 25: *K 1 st, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 8 sts.
ROUND 26-28: K all sts.
ROUND 29: K2 tog around = 4 sts, cut the yarn.
Pull yarn tail through the 4 sts, tighten tog.

FOOT AND LEG:
Work from bottom (sole) up. The sole is first worked back and forth in garter st - Read explanation above, then the foot is worked in the round in garter st and the leg in the round in stockinette st.
Cast on 4 sts with red.
Work next row as follows: K 1, inc 1 st in each of the next 2 sts, K 1 = 6 sts (2 sts inc).
* K 1 row, on next row inc 1 st in the 2nd st and in the next to last st on row * = 8 sts.
Repeat from *-* 1 more time = 10 sts.
Continue in garter st back and forth until piece measures approx. 3½ cm / 1 1/4''.
On next row, dec as follows: K2 tog in each side = 8 sts.
K 1 row, on next row K2 tog in each side = 6 sts.
K 1 row, on next row K2 tog in each side while AT THE SAME TIME binding off, cut the yarn.
Then pick up new sts as follows: Beg in the middle of bind off edge (= back part of foot), pick up 40 sts around the entire sole.
Then work in the round as follows:
ROUND 1 (and then every uneven numbered round): P all sts.
ROUND 2: K 16, K2 tog, K 4, K2 tog, K 16 = 38 sts.
ROUND 4: K 15, K2 tog, K 4, K2 tog, K 15 = 36 sts.
ROUND 6: K 14, K2 tog, K 4, K2 tog, K 14 = 34 sts.
ROUND 8: K 13, K2 tog, K 4, K2 tog, K 13 = 32 sts.
ROUND 10: K 12, dec 4 sts (i.e. work the next 8 sts tog 2 by 2), K 12 = 28 sts.
ROUND 12: K 10, dec 4 sts, K 10 = 24 sts.
ROUND 14: K 4, dec 8 sts, K 4 = 16 sts.
On next round switch to dark gray and K all sts.
Then K until foot and leg measures approx. 13 cm / 5'' vertically.
Fill the piece with some poly stuffing (until approx. 1 cm / ½'' from bind off edge remain, so that you can bend the leg).
Knit another foot and leg the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Make 1 pompom with a diameter of approx. 1½ cm / ½'' with 1 strand off white and 1 strand light gray, fasten it on the hat and fasten the hat at the top of head.
Embroider eyes on the head with black.
Fill the body with some poly stuffing.
Sew tog the cast on edge on body.
Place the bind off edge on the legs flat and sew them under the body.

SCARF:
Work a scarf back and forth as follows:
Cast on 6 sts with red, work in garter st until scarf measures approx. 26 cm / 10 1/4'' (or desired length), bind off.
Tie the scarf around the neck.




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-861) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (12)

Toril Thoresen 10.12.2016 - 20:58:

Kroppen får ved økning 50, 60 og 70 masker. Det er vel feil at det blir 48, 56 og 64?

DROPS Design 12.12.2016 kl. 15:09:

Hej Toril. Nej, du har f.eks. 48 m og skal strikke: 5 m, øk 1 m i neste m. Dvs, du strikker 6 m og öker til 7 i hver. 48/6 er 8 gange og 8 gange 7 m er 56 m. Det samme gaelder for naeste omg osv.

Ingrid Rörig 25.10.2016 - 18:14:

Hallo, ist es richtig, dass der erste rote Streifen incl. Anschlag für der Körper nur 3 Reihen umfasst? Das Grundmuster für Streifen umfasst doch 4 Reihen. MfG I. Rörig

DROPS Design 26.10.2016 kl. 08:50:

Liebe Frau Rörig, also für den Körper beginnen Sie die Streifen mit der 4. Runde, dh Anschlagskante + die 3 erste Runde sind mit Rot gestrickt.

Katri Ahonen 16.12.2015 - 22:45:

Julius tontun ohjeessa on käden kohdalla virhe. Ohjeessa kehotetaan :" Katkaise lanka, vedä se loppujen silmukoiden läpi, kiristä aukko umpeen ja päättele langanpää." Näin ei voi tehdä .

Mari 23.12.2013 - 22:35:

Hei Holder på å strikke denne, men kroppen blir bare halvparten av lengda i forhold til illustrasjonsbildet! Har lest igjennom flere ganger, men ender opp med bare 4 grå striper i genseren. Han blir søt alikevell, men den gode magen var noe av det jeg likte med nissen. Tenkte jeg skulle si ifra (og ønske dere god jul i samme slengen :) )

Roberta 22.12.2013 - 17:49:

Salve ho realizzato il modello ma credo ci sia un errore nel passaggio per la testa non è scritto che bisogna rovesciare il corpo e quindi lavorare tutti i ferri a rovescio. Io sono riuscita a farlo solo così.

DROPS Design 27.12.2013 kl. 11:07:

Buongiorno Roberta, le istruzioni del modello sono corrette, il corpo non va rovesciato, ma vanno semplicemente riprese le maglie: probabilmente c'è stato qualche problema durante questo passaggio. Buon lavoro!

Wagner, Johanna 29.11.2013 - 13:39:

Der Kleine gefällt mir sehr gut. Leider kann ich die Anleitung nicht ausdrucken. Was mache ich falsch?

DROPS Design 01.12.2013 kl. 09:48:

Liebe Johanna, gehen Sie auf den Button "DRUCKEN: ANLEITUNG" und dann in der rechten oberen Ecke nochmals auf "Anleitung drucken".

Lucie 26.09.2013 - 14:58:

Pro Janu Nemcakovou: *-* znamená, že se postup mezi hvězdičkami, který byl obvykle popsán v předchozí větě, opakuje (např. * 2hladce, 2 obrace*, *-* opakujeme 3krát znamená, že budete plést 2hl,2obr,2hl,2obr,2hl,2obr)

Jana Nemcakova 26.09.2013 - 10:46:

Dobry den. Mohli by jste mi vyscetlit ci znamema tohleto : *-*? Jsem zacatecnice a vubec tomu nerozumim. Dekuji Vam za odpoved. S pozdravem Jana

Vera 14.12.2012 - 19:47:

Thank you for your reply! I mean that the pattern says to join in the round for the "yoke", bind off facing bind off. But then you'll end up with holes in the armpit :) Did I miss something? I've just sewn the holes closed now. Love the pattern!

Vera 14.12.2012 - 13:19:

In the english version, the instructions for finishing the armpit are missing

DROPS Design 14.12.2012 kl. 14:11:

Dear Vera, the arms will be joined with the rest of the body under shoulders and head. Happy knitting !

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