Candy Girl by DROPS Design

Knitted hat and neck warmer in 1 strand DROPS Big Fabel or 2 strands DROPS Fabel

Tags: hats, headwear, sets,
DROPS design: Pattern no bf-006-bn
Yarn group C
Size: 3/5 - 6/9 - 10/12 years
To fit head circumference:
48/50 - 50/52 - 52/54 cm /
19"/19¾" - 19¾"/20½" - 20½"/21¼"

DROPS BIG FABEL from Garnstudio
200 g for all sizes in color no 900, pink/yellow/green
Or use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes in colour no 911, fun lilac

Size: 3/5 - 6/9 - 10/12 years

DROPS BIG FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in color no 109, dark pink

Or use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 109, dark pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread Big Fabel or 2 threads Fabel= 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') and DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 - for garter st and rib

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K sts on all rows. 1 ridge = 2 K rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles):
1 ridge = 2 rounds: * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

Worked top down in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 6-6-8 sts and distribute them on 3 double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 thread Big Fabel or 2 threads Fabel, let the tail be approx. 10 cm / 4'' for assembly. K 2 sts in every st the entire round = 12-12-16 sts.
Distribute sts on 4 double pointed needles. K 1 round, insert 6-6-8 markers in the piece, 2 sts apart.
Then work in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round inc by K 2 sts in same st in the first st after every marker (= 6-6-8 sts inc).
Repeat inc every 2nd-2nd-3rd round 9-10-8 more times = 72-78-88 sts (= 12-13-11 sts between every marker).
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work in stockinette st until piece measures 10.5-11-11.5 cm / 4 1/4"-4 3/8"-4½" from last inc. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and K1 round, P1 round, K1 round, P1 round (i.e 2 ridges).
On next round K and at the same time bind off the first 21-23-24 sts (= mid front of hat). Continue in garter st back and forth over the remaining 51-55-64 sts.
On next row (= WS) K tog the first 2 sts and K tog the last 2 sts = 49-53-62 sts. K2 rows.
Work next row as follows: K 16-17-21 sts and slip these sts on a stitch holder for ear flap, bind off the next 17-19-20 sts (= mid back) and work the remaining 16-17-21 sts (= ear flap). Insert a marker.
Then work in garter st back and forth until ear flap measures approx. 2-2-2 1/2 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-1" from marker. Dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side by K 2 tog, repeat every 4th row 2-2-2 more times and then every other row a total of 3-3-4 times = 4-5-5 sts remain, ear flap measures approx. 7-7-8 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3".
Fasten off. Work the other ear flap the same way. Use a needle and baste the thread at the top of hat up and down through the opening, tighten tog and fasten.

Make 1 braid at the bottom of each ear flap. 1 braid = cut 12 threads Big Fabel or 24 threads Fabel of approx. 50 cm / 20''. Thread the strands half way through bottom part of ear flap so that they are double.
Divide the strands into 3 bundles of 8 threads Big Fabel or 16 Fabel and braid them loosely tog, tie a strand around the end at the bottom of braid. Repeat on the other ear flap.

Make 1 pompom of approx. 8 cm / 3'' in diameter. Sew the pompom on the top of the hat.

Cast on at the bottom of front piece, work piece and then bind off at the bottom of back piece, the collar is worked at the end.

Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 38-41-44 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Big Fabel. K 4 rows (i.e 2 ridges). Continue in stockinette st with 2 sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 7-9-10 cm / 2 3/4"-3½"-4", bind off the middle 12-15-16 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately.
Shoulder: = 13-13-14 sts.
Continue in stockinette st with 2 sts in garter st towards the shoulder - AT THE SAME TIME bind off at beg of every row from neck as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 6-6-7 sts remain on shoulder.
When piece measures 11-13-15 cm / 4½"-5"-6", insert a marker (= mid on top of shoulder) - now measures piece from here. On next row cast on 2 new sts towards the neck, then slip sts on a stitch holder.
Work the other shoulder the same way.

Slip sts from one shoulder back on needle, cast on 22-25-26 new sts and slip sts from the other shoulder back on needle = 38-41-44 sts.
Continue in stockinette st with 2 sts in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 10-12-14 cm / 4"-4 3/4"-5½", K 4 rows (i.e 2 ridges) over all sts before binding off.

Pick up approx. 56-70 sts around the neck on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. P 1 round.
Then K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 68-76-80 sts. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 until neck measures 7-8-9 cm / 2 3/4"-3"-3½". Loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 23-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (7)

Rosaria Napolitano 30.09.2019 - 11:33:

Mi piacerebbe tanto fare questo cappellino coni paraorecchi ma non so usare i ferri circolari (è il motivo per cui non faccio i vostri modelli ai ferri). E' possibile avere spiegazione per ferri tradizionali? Grazie

DROPS Design 30.09.2019 kl. 15:39:

Buongiorno Rosaria. Purtroppo in questa sede non riusciamo a soddisfare richieste così personalizzate. In base alla sua esperienza, potrebbe provare a lavorare il cappello avanti e indietro con una cucitura sul dietro. Può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia che sarà in grado di assisterla al meglio. Buon lavoro!

Deborah Naugler 09.02.2017 - 12:52:

What is the weight of Big Label, i.e. worsted, bulky? also what would the gauge be for Candy Girl Drops design hat?

DROPS Design 09.02.2017 kl. 13:20:

Dear Mrs Naughler, Big Fabel was an 10 ply/aran -see here, you'll find gauge and needle size to this pattern under tab "Materials", as well as yarn amount. Happy knitting!

Mimi 31.10.2016 - 02:15:

Est-ce que je peux faire le col avec l'aiguille circulaire. merci et bonne soirée

DROPS Design 31.10.2016 kl. 11:40:

Bonjour Mimi, vous pouvez tout à fait le tricoter sur aiguille circulaire, si elle est à la bonne taille (circonférence) ou bien avec une plus longue, vous pouvez utiliser la technique du magic loop, cf vidéo ci-dessous. Bon tricot!

Sonja 19.12.2015 - 09:35:

Det står 3 ggr på vart 4e v.

Lone Bjørnsen 19.12.2015 - 08:09:

"16-17-21 m (= øreklap). Sæt 1 mærke. Fortsæt i retstrik frem og tilbage til øreklappen måler ca 2-2-21/2 cm fra mærket. Tag 1 m ind indenfor 1 kant-m i hver side ved at strikke 2 m ret sammen, gentag på hver 4.p 2-2-2 gange til og videre på hver 2.p totalt 3-3-4 gange = 4-5-5 m tilbage...." Der er en fejl i overståede teks, da der er 6-7-7 m tilbage. Først taget ind 2gange på hver 4.p derefter 3-4 gange på hver 2. p = 10 -12 mindre masker.. Hilsen Lone

DROPS Design 25.01.2016 kl. 13:40:

Hej Lone, Nej du starter med 3 gange (du ser at der står 2 gange "til"). Det vil sige at du starter med 16m tager 2m ind 3 gange på hver 4.p = 6indtagninger og så 2x3 ind på hver 2.p = 6indt = 4 m tilbage. God fornøjelse!

Bridget 26.05.2014 - 00:48:

This is a lovely pattern. I have just bought LOTS of Big Fabel and can't wait to get started on this and other patterns. Thank you very much. Bridget

TRENCART 21.05.2014 - 14:07:

Merci pour ce très joli modèle, facile à réaliser en plus. Par contre revoir peut être vos taillants, ma fille de 3 ans a un tour de tête de 51,2 cm.

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