DROPS / 140 / 30

Buenos Aires by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress with stripes, zigzag pattern and split in front of neck in ”Fabel”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no FA-198
Yarn group A
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Size: S - M/L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-96-108-120-132 cm / 33"-37 3/4"-42½"-47 1/4"-52"
Full length: 90-92-94-96-98 cm / 35½"-36 1/4"-37"-37 3/4"-38½"

Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
Color no 100, off white:
150-200-200-250-250 g
Color no 905, salt and pepper:
150-200-200-200-250 g
Color no 400, black:
150-150-150-200-200 g
Color no 602, silver fox:
100-150-150-150-200 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/ US 4 - or size needed to get 30 sts with zigzag pattern (= A-3) = width 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C - for edge around the neck.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 1 piece for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagrams A-1 to A-8 for zigzag pattern, diagrams show all rows in pattern from RS. See diagram A-9 for stripes.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
LOOSELY cast on 308-352-396-440-484 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with black (it is important to cast on loosely to avoid a tight cast on edge). P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round.
Insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 154-176-198-220-242 sts (these marks the sides).
Continue with diagram A-1 (= 14-16-18-20-22 repetitions on the round) and stripes according to A-9 until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 20-21-22-23-24 cm / 8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9½", work A-2 one time in the round = 280-320-360-400-440 sts. Continue with A-3.
When piece measures 35-36-37-38-39 cm / 13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14½"-15"-15 1/4", work A-4 one time in the round = 252-288-324-360-396 sts.
Continue with A-5. When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼'', work A-6 one time in the round = 224-256-288-320-352 sts.
Continue with A-7. When piece measures 57-58-59-60-61 cm / 22½"-22 3/4"-23 1/4"-23 5/8"-24", work A-8 one time in the round = 252-288-324-360-396 sts.
Continue with A-5. When piece measures approx. 72-72-73-74-75 cm / 28 3/8"-28 3/8"-28 3/4"-29 1/8"-29½", work next round as follows (make sure this is a round without inc and dec): bind off the first 3-3-4-5-6 sts, work 60-69-77-85-93 sts, insert a marker (marks split mid front), work 60-69-77-85-93 sts, bind off 6-6-8-10-12 sts, work 120-138-154-170-186 sts and bind off the last 3-3-4-5-6 sts, cut the thread. Finish each piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 120-138-154-170-186 sts. Continue with pattern but work the outermost 6-6-14-22-30 sts in each side in stockinette st. At the same time bind off for armholes at beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 0-0-1-2-3 times, 2 sts 0-1-3-4-5 times and 1 st 0-4-5-5-6 times = 120-126-126-132-136 sts.
Continue pattern - there are now 6-0-0-3-5 sts in stockinette st in each side.
When piece measures 87-89-91-93-95 cm / 34 1/4"-35"-35 3/4"-36 5/8"-37 3/8", bind off the middle 34-34-40-40-46 sts for neck. Each shoulder = 43-46-43-46-45 sts, work separately, continue pattern as before but work in addition the 1-1-7-7-4 outermost sts towards neck in stockinette st.
When piece measures 88-90-92-94-96 cm / 34 5/8"-35½"-36 1/4"-37"-37 3/4", work 2 repetitions of A-5 without inc, i.e. dec 4-5-4-5-4 sts on every K row 2 times = 35-36-35-36-37 sts on shoulder. Bind off sts on next row.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 60-69-77-85-93 sts.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue pattern, work the outermost 6-6-14-22-30 sts towards armhole in stockinette st, work the outermost 3 sts towards mid front in pattern but in garter st, i.e. K from WS. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 60-63-63-66-68 sts.
When piece measures 80-81-82-83-84 cm / 31½"-32"-32 1/4"-32 3/4"-33", bind off for neck at beg of every row from WS: 9 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-2-2-3 times and 1 st 3-3-4-4-5 times – work the sts that do not fit the pattern when binding off in stockinette st = 43-46-43-46-45 sts remain on shoulder.
When piece measures 88-90-92-94-96 cm / 34 5/8"-35½"-36 1/4"-37"-37 3/4", work A-5 two more times vertically but without inc just dec, i.e. 4-5-4-5-4 sts less on every K row 2 times = 35-36-35-36-37 sts remain on needle.
On next row from RS, bind off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but bind off for neck at beg of every row from RS. Make sure to finish on the same stripe in A-9 as on left front piece.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
LOOSELY cast on 74-76-80-84-90 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with black. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Continue like this (in stripes according to A-9): 1-2-4-6-0 sts in stockinette st, A-5 4-4-4-4-5 times and 1-2-4-6-0 sts in stockinette st.
When piece measures 15-13-12-12-11 cm / 6"-5 1/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/8", inc 1 st on each side of marker mid under sleeve – work the inc sts in stockinette st. Repeat inc every 3½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm / 1 1/4"-7/8"-3/4"-½"-½" 9-13-16-19-20 more times = 94-104-114-124-132 sts.
When piece measures 49-48-46-45-43 cm / 19 1/4"-19"-18"-17 3/4"-17" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off 8 sts mid under sleeve and work back and forth until finished measurements.
Continue pattern - AT THE SAME TIME bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 1 time and then 2 sts in each side until piece measures 54 cm / 21 1/4", then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side.
Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 55 cm / 21½''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams.
Pick up approx. 80 to 100 sts around the neck on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with black - beg mid front at split. K 1 row from WS, then bind off with K from RS.
Crochet 1 row with black and sc around the neck and split (beg mid back) – at the same time crochet 1 buttonhole loop at the top on right side of split, beg when 1 cm / 3/8'' remains of split, ch 5, then 1 sc at the top of split, work until mid back and cut the thread.

Sew in sleeves and sew on 1 button on left side at the top of split.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 19.05.2014
under ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= inc by K 2 sts in this st
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= K 2 tog
= silver fox
= black
= salt and pepper
= off white


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 140-30) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (36)

Rochat Andréa 03.11.2018 - 01:55:

Bonjour, j'ai commencé le modèle 140-30 et ai terminé le diagramme A-1. Je vais débuter le diagramme A-2 mais je ne comprends pas la 2ème ligne. Pouvez-vous m'aider afin que je puisse continuer ma robe ! D'avance, je vous en remercie ! Salutations !

DROPS Design 05.11.2018 kl. 08:36:

Bonjour Mme Rochat, le diagramme A.2 permet de diminuer le nombre de mailles à intervalles réguliers, au 1er tour, tricotez: 9 m end, vous diminuez 2 fois 1 m (comme avant dans A.1) et terminez par 9 m end = 20 m. Au 2ème tour de A.2, tricotez ces 20 m à l'endroit (= vous avez diminué 2 m dans chaque A.2 tout le tour). Tricotez ensuite A.3 jusqu'à la hauteur indiquée. Bon tricot!

Trine R 08.03.2017 - 20:25:

Som en bruger tidligere skriver, er jeg nu i samme båd. Strikker nu prøve på pind 2.5 og har 24 m på 10 cm i bredden v. diagram A-3. Kan det virkelig være rigtigt?

DROPS Design 09.03.2017 kl. 13:57:

Hej Trine. Jeg ved ikke hvordan du maaler, men jeg har lige testet og jeg sidder med 30 m i bredden paa pinde 3 mm, saa det burde vaere muligt. Pröv eventuelt at vaske din pröve og maal fladt.

Kim 26.12.2016 - 16:31:

Hallo. Ik ben begonnen met het afzonderlijk breien met het linkervoorpand. Na 6 naalden het patroon gevolgd te hebben, en afgekant bij het armsgat, kom ik middenvoor steken tekort. Kunt u het patroon nog wat verduidelijken? Bedankt.

DROPS Design 30.12.2016 kl. 12:46:

Hoi Kim. Je hebt 69 st en kant af aan de zijkant (alleen aan de zijkant) zoals op het achterpand: 1 keer 2 st en 4 keer 1 = 6 st minder. Daarna moet je afkanten voor de hals: 1 keer 9 st, 1 keer 3 st, 1 keer 2 st en 3 keer 1 st: 17 st minder. Dus dan heb je 46 st over voor de schouder.

Kim 02.11.2016 - 19:35:

Inmiddels heb ik het patroon onder de knie. Echter, nog een andere vraag: ik brei de jurk op een rondbreinaald. Is het de bedoeling dat ik, wanneer ik begin met patroon A1, overga op tricotstreek?

DROPS Design 03.11.2016 kl. 16:15:

Hoi Kim. Ja, r aan de goede kant/av aan de verkeerde kant is tricotst - brei je in de rondte, dan is het elke nld r breien.

Kim 28.10.2016 - 22:35:

Geweldig leuk jurkje! Fanatiek begonnen, maar.. na de eerste keer patroon A1 gevolgd te hebben, hou ik na de 16x (maat M/L) nu voor de vierde keer wéér 4 steken over. Tel ik nu steeds verkeerd of doe ik iets structureel fout? Misschien dat enige verduidelijking kan helpen?

DROPS Design 01.11.2016 kl. 10:30:

Hoi Kim. Kan het zijn dat je verkeerd meerdert/mindert zodat je st overhoudt. Je moet het aantal st gelijk houden, je meerdert aan het begin en aan het eind van de 16 st (de kruisjes) door 2 st in 1 st te breien, maar je mindert in het midden ook weer 2 st. Ik zou een markeerder zetten bij elke herhaling, zodat je direct kan tellen hoeveel st je hebt en snel een mogelijke fout terugvinden.

Lis Fredborg 10.09.2015 - 09:33:

Jeg vil lave kjolen 20cm kortere end modellen. Skal jeg forkorte den den indenfor de første 45cm

DROPS Design 16.09.2015 kl. 11:38:

Hej Lis, Ja, det ville jeg göre. Om muligt, pröv den paa undervejs, saa du er sikker paa laengden. God fornöjelse

Mette Jacobsen 17.05.2015 - 13:21:

Jeg skal helt ned på pind nr. 2,5 for at strikkefastheden passer nogenlunde. Det har jeg aldrig været udsat for før. Bliver striberne så ikke for smalle, til at det bliver pænt?

DROPS Design 18.05.2015 kl. 09:13:

Hej Mette, har du målt din strikkefasthed i siksak mønster? Hvis du overholder strikkefastheden så bliver striberne som på billedet. God fornøjelse!

Jozefien De Bruijn 15.12.2014 - 22:10:

Welk soort meerdering werd er gebruikt? Twee steken uit een steek blijkt na 30 naalden erg slordig. Op de foto is het mooi regelmatig. Maar hoe doe ik dat?

DROPS Design 16.12.2014 kl. 16:34:

Hoi Jozefien. In dit patroon meerder je door 2 st in één st te breien. Kijk ook hier:

Lone Højberg 16.05.2014 - 13:32:

Der står ikke noget om at sy skuldersømmen sammen, men jeg går ud fra, at man skal gøre det, før man strikker kanten rundt i halsen. Eller hvad?

DROPS Design 16.05.2014 kl. 13:53:

Hej Lone. Ja, det skal du göre. Vi skal faa det tilföjet i teksten. Tak for din kommentar.

Ulla 09.05.2014 - 17:07:

92 cm är hela längden!

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