DROPS / 143 / 13

Tweed on the Town by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with shawl collar in ”Snow”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Tweed on the Town / DROPS 143-13 - Knitted DROPS jacket with shawl collar in ”Snow”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-423
Yarn group E
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-90-98-110-120-134 cm /
33"-35½"-38½"-43½"-47 1/4"-52 3/4"
Full length: 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm /
31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''

Materials: DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
Color no 70t, white/gray: 850-900-1000-1100-1200-1300 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 8 mm / US 11 (80 cm / 32'') - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 7 mm / US 10.75 (80 cm / 32'') - for garter st.

DROPS ANGULAR BUFFEL HORN BUTTON NO 538 (25 mm): 6 pieces for all sizes

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Snow mix DROPS Snow mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Snow print DROPS Snow print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.45$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K sts on all rows. 1 ridge = 2 K rows.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS.
Dec 1 st at beg of row as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st at end of row as follows: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K the next 2 sts tog, 1 edge st in garter st.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1, diagram shows 1 pattern repetition seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Bind off for 6 buttonholes on band on right front piece as follows: Work 4 sts, bind off the next 2 sts, work 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts, bind off the next 2 sts = 2 buttonholes on same row (4 sts remain on band). On next row cast on 2 new sts over the bind off sts.
Bind off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 36, 45, 54 cm / 14¼", 17¾", 21¼"
SIZE M: 38, 47, 56 cm / 15", 18½", 22''
SIZE L: 40, 49, 58 cm / 15¾", 19¼", 22¾"
SIZE XL: 42, 51, 60 cm / 16½", 20", 23 5/8"
SIZE XXL: 44, 53, 62 cm / 17¼", 21", 24 3/8"
SIZE XXXL: 46, 55, 64 cm / 18", 21 5/8", 25¼"
Approx. 1 cm / 3/8'' remains before working in garter st over all sts on band.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
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BACK:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 62-66-70-76-82-90 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with Snow.
Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above - for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8'' (1st row = RS). On next row from RS switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and continue in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. NOTE! All edge sts in the sides are worked in garter st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 12-12-13-13-14-14 cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5½"-5½", dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side - Read DECREASE TIP.
Repeat dec every 7-7½-7½-8-8-8 cm / 2 3/4"-2 7/8"-2 7/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" 6 more times (= 7 dec in total) = 48-52-56-62-68-76 sts.
Continue until piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''. Then bind off for armholes at the beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 0-0-1-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1-1-2-3 times and 1 st 2-3-1-3-3-4 times = 40-42-44-46-48-50 sts.
Continue until piece measures 77-80-83-86-89-92 cm / 30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''. Then bind off the middle 8-8-10-10-12-12 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from neck, bind off 1 st = 15-16-16-17-17-18 sts remain on shoulder.
Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 44-46-47-52-54-58 sts (incl 1 edge st) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75. Work 1st row from RS as follows: K until 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts remain, work A.1 over the remaining sts (= band).
Continue with A.1 over band and in garter st over the other sts for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''.
Then switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, work in stockinette st until 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts remain, continue with A.1 over band. Work in stockinette st with A.1 over band until piece measures 12-12-13-13-14-14 cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5½"-5½".
Then dec 1 st after 1 edge st at beg of row from RS. Repeat dec every 7-7½-7½-8-8-8 cm / 2 3/4"-2 7/8"-2 7/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" 6 more times (= 7 dec in total) = 37-39-40-45-47-51 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm / 21 5/8''-22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½'', work in garter st over the 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts on band until finished measurements.
When piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28'', bind off for armhole at the beg of every row from RS as follows: bind off 3 sts 0-0-1-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1-1-2-3 times and 1 st 2-3-1-3-3-4 times = 33-34-34-37-37-38 sts. Continue until piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''.
On next row from RS bind off the first 15-16-16-17-17-18 sts (= shoulder) = 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts in garter st remain on band.
Continue in garter st over these sts - AT THE SAME TIME work short rows starting from neck (WS) as follows:
* Work 1 ridge over all sts (= 2 rows K).
On next row from WS, K 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts, turn and K back *.
Repeat from *-* until piece measures 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm / 2¾''-2¾''-3 1/8''-3 1/8''-3½''-3½'' from where shoulder was bound off (short side).
Loosely bind off all sts.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work the same way as on left front piece but reversed - AT THE SAME TIME bind off for BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above - on band.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 26-26-30-30-34-34 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Snow. Work A.1 for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm / 2''-2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''. Then work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 9 cm / 3½'', inc 1 st - READ INCREASE TIP - inside 1 edge st in each side.
Repeat inc every 6½-4½-5-4½-5-4 cm / 2½"-1 3/4"-2"-1 3/4"-2"-1½" a total of 6-8-7-8-7-8 times = 38-42-44-46-48-50 sts.
When piece measures 47-46-45-44-43-43 cm / 18½"-18"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17"-17" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap) bind off at beg of every row in each side for sleeve cap as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, and 1 st 3-3-4-5-6-5 times. Then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures approx. 56 cm / 22'', then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 57 cm / 22½''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams and sew in sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st.
Sew bands tog mid back for collar - NOTE! Seam should be at the back so that it is not visible when collar is folded down. Sew collar along neckline in the back of neck. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

POCKET:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 8 mm / US 11 with Snow.
Work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side until piece measures 16-16-16-18-18-18 cm / 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-7"-7"-7".
Then work 2 ridges (= K4 rows) before binding off (piece measures approx. 18-18-18-20-20-20 cm / 7"-7"-7"-8"-8"-8" vertically).
Knit another pocket the same way.
Sew pockets on to front piece, approx. 12-12-12-13-13-13 cm / 4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/8"-5 1/8" from bottom edge and 18-18-19-19-20-20 cm / 7"-7"-7½"-7½"-8"-8" in from mid front.


This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 31.10.2012
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
...Continue until piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''.
On next row from RS bind off the first 15-16-16-17-17-18 sts (= shoulder) = 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts in garter st remain on band.
Continue in garter st over these sts - AT THE SAME TIME work short rows starting from neck (WS) as follows:
* Work 1 ridge over all sts (= 2 rows K).
On next row from WS, K 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts, turn and K back *.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 143-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (67)

country flag Anna 15.04.2021 - 14:50:

Buongiorno, bello il modello. lo vorrei però realizzare con le tasche laterali interne e non esterne. Come posso fare? Potreste indicarmi dove posso trovare le istruzioni? Grazie mille

user icon DROPS Design 15.04.2021 kl. 19:20:

Buonasera Anna, per un'assistenza così personalizzata può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

country flag Virginie 28.02.2021 - 12:00:

Bonjour , pour le col châle, devant droit , les rangs raccourcis doivent ils être opposés c’est à dire inversés par rapport au devant gauche. J ai dû mal à visualiser comment faire . Je suis bloquée.

user icon DROPS Design 01.03.2021 kl. 09:29:

Bonjour Virginie, pour le devant gauche, vous avez commencé les rangs raccourcis sur l'envers (ainsi vous avez davantage de rangs côté extérieur du col que côté épaule = partie qui sera cousue le long de l'encolure dos. Pour le devant droit, commencez les rangs raccourcis sur l'endroit ainsi, vous aurez davantage de rangs côté extérieur et moins côté épaule. Bon tricot!

country flag Monica 07.01.2021 - 21:04:

Gentilissimi, innanzi tutto complimenti per i modelli sempre molto belli e per l'opportunità che date a tutte noi di avere le spiegazioni gratuitamente. Sto confezionando il davanti sinistro ma non riesco a capire come devo fare l'allungo del collo a scialle, non mi tornano i conti delle maglie. Se il bordo è di 18 maglie perché dopo la costa legaccio ne devo lavorare solo 14? Le altre 4 che fine fanno? Grazie Monica

user icon DROPS Design 07.01.2021 kl. 21:39:

Buonasera Monica, una volta intrecciate le maglie per la spalla si prosegue la lavorazione a ferri accorciati, cioè solo su una parte delle maglie del ferro, come indicato nel lavoro; le altre maglie semplicemente non vengono lavorate. Buon lavoro!

country flag Nicoletta 25.10.2020 - 22:13:

Salve, nella descrizione del davanti sinistro non riesco a capire come dividere le maglie, la spiegazione dice di lavorare a legaccio finché non rimangono 18 maglie, quindi lavorate il diagramma A1 che però è divisibile per 4...Grazie mille per i vostri preziosi consigli

user icon DROPS Design 27.10.2020 kl. 13:43:

Buongiorno Nicoletta. E' sufficiente che lavori le ultime due maglie come indicato per le prime due maglie del diagramma A1. Buon lavoro!

country flag Ines 16.08.2020 - 15:50:

Ich finde das Diagramm A1 nicht auf der Seite. Können Sie mir das bitte schicken?

user icon DROPS Design 16.08.2020 kl. 16:17:

Liebe Ines. Das Diagramm A.1 befindet sich rechts von der Jackenzeichnung.

country flag Nancy A Keller 18.02.2020 - 17:16:

When doing the collar, the short rows, says 9 cm or 3.5 in. Where to measure? Inside collar next to neck? Or??

user icon DROPS Design 19.02.2020 kl. 08:38:

Dear Mrs Keller, measure from the cast off stitches for shoulder, this should be the shortest measurement (the longest one is outside), this part will be then sewn along neck on back piece. Happy knitting!

country flag Nancy A Keller 29.01.2020 - 19:28:

What is the A1 stitch please? Is it knit 2 pearl 2, and on next row Pearl 2, knit2?

user icon DROPS Design 30.01.2020 kl. 09:15:

Dear Mrs Keller, on row 1 work K2/P2. On row 2, work K over K and P over P. On row 3, work P2/K2. On row 4 work K over K and P over P. Repeat these 4 rows. Happy knitting!

country flag Paqui 02.01.2020 - 00:15:

Se puede hacer ese patrón en 2 agujas en vez de aguja circular? Gracias

user icon DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 09:46:

Hola Paqui! Si, mira una de nos lecciones AQUI. Buen trabajo!

country flag Anita Famaey 14.09.2019 - 07:44:

Als ik het zo lees zou een vest van maat large ongeveer 160 cm rondom breed zijn klopt dit nu ? of zie ik het verkeerd , ik twijfel namelijk aan mijn maat

user icon DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 08:22:

Dag Anita,

Maat L is steeds het 3e getal vanaf links, dus het vest is 62 breed aan de onderkant en in omtrek 124 cm. (160 is de omtrek voor de grootste maat, maat XXXL) De borstwijdte in maat L is (49 x 2 =) 98

Als je twijfelt welke maat je moet kiezen, kun je een vergelijkbaar kledingstuk nemen die goed past en de maten daarvan opnemen.

country flag Karen 17.08.2019 - 06:17:

Wow! Thank you very much! I did a sample and worked it out how to do the collar section at top of front and your explanation works out much easier that pattern instruction. Thank you very much.

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