Jaqueline by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-675
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-92-102-110-122-134 cm / 33"-36 1/4"-40"-43½"-48"-52 3/4"
Full length: 76-80-84-86-89-91 cm / 30"-31½"-33"-34"-35"-35 3/4"

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
Color no 52, dark mustard:
700-750-850-900-1000-1100 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm/ US 7 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 6 rows in pattern A.4 = 10 cm / 4'' in width
(1 repetition A.1 measures 3½ cm / 1 1/4'' in width,
1 repetition A.2 measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' in width,
1 repetition A.3 measures 2½ cm / 7/8'' in width,
1 repetition A.1/A.2/A.3 measures approx. 2½ cm / 7/8'' vertically).

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS, NO 522 (20 mm): 6 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
SC ROW:
Beg every sc row with 1 ch (not counted as 1st sc), work 1 sc in every st the entire row, turn.

PATTERN A.1 (divisible by 6 + 1):
ROW 1 (= RS): Ch 4 (= 1 tr) in 1st sc, continue as follows – also see 1st row in diagram A.1: * ch 2, 1 bobble with 5 tr, ch 2, 1 tr in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= WS): ch 1, 3 sc in 1st ch-space, 1 sc in next bobble, 2 sc in next ch-space, continue as follows – also see 2nd row in diagram A.1: * 1 sc in next tr, 2 sc in next ch-space, 1 sc in next bobble, 2 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row, finish with 1 sc more in last ch-space on row (= same no of sc as before).

PATTERN A.2 (divisible by 5 + 1):
ROW 1 (= RS): Ch 4 (= 1 tr) in 1st sc, continue as follows – also see 1st row in diagram A.2: * ch 2, work 1 bobble with 4 tr, ch 2, 1 tr in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row, turn.
ROW 2 (= WS): ch 1, 3 sc in 1st ch-space, skip 1st bobble, 2 sc in next ch-space, continue as follows – also see 2nd row in diagram A.2: * 1 sc in next tr, 2 sc in next ch-space, skip next bobble, 2 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row, finish row with 1 sc more last ch-space on row (= same no of sc as before).

PATTERN A.3 (divisible by 4 + 1):
ROW 1 (= RS): Ch 4 (= 1 tr) in 1st sc, continue as follows – also see 1st row in diagram A.3: * ch 1, work 1 bobble with 3 tr, ch 1, 1 tr in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire row, turn.
ROW 2 (= WS): ch 1, 2 sc in 1st ch-space, 1 sc in next bobble, 1 sc in next ch-space, continue as follows – also see 2nd row in diagram A.3: * 1 sc in next tr, 1 sc in next ch-space, 1 sc in next bobble, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row, finish with 1 sc more in last ch-space on row (= same no of sc as before).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in the same st.

DC ROW:
Work all dc rows from RS. Beg every dc row with 3 ch (= 1st dc), skip 1st sc from previous row, work 1 dc in every sc the entire row, turn.

PATTERN A.4:
ROW 1 (= RS): Work 1 dc row.
ROW 2 (= WS): Work 1 sc row.

DECREASE TIP - DC:
Crochet 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc in sc below but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 dc in next sc but on last pull through, pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 dc dec.
Dec 3 dc at the beg or end of row by working the first 6 or last 6 dc tog 2 by 2.
Dec 2 dc at the beg or end of row by working the first 4 or last 4 dc tog 2 by 2.
Dec 1 dc at the beg or end of row by working the first 2 or last 2 dc tog.

DECREASE TIP - SC:
Insert hook in st below and pull thread through, insert hook in next st and pull thread through, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 loops on hook = 1 st dec.

WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last sc on round do not finish with 1 sl st but continue on to next round with 1 sc in first sc on previous round.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth from mid front.
Ch 188-200-218-242-266-290 LOOSELY with Karisma on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7, turn and work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in every ch the entire row = 187-199-217-241-265-289 sc, turn piece (1st row = WS). Work 4 SC ROWS - read explanation above = a total of 5 sc rows, piece measures approx. 2½ cm / 7/8''.
Then work PATTERN A.1 - read explanation above = 31-33-36-40-44-48 repetitions + 1 tr. When 2ND ROW has been worked, there are 187-199-217-241-265-289 sc on row. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Work A.1 a total of 6-6-7-7-8-8 times vertically - but work last sc row from WS as follows: ch 1, 3 sc in 1st ch-space, skip 1st bobble, 2 sc in next ch-space, * 1 sc in next tr, 2 sc in next ch-space, skip next bobble, 2 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row but finish with 3 sc in last ch-space = 156-166-181-201-221-241 sc, turn.
Then work PATTERN A.2 - read explanation above. When 2ND ROW has been worked, there are 156-166-181-201-221-241 sc on row. Work A.2 a total of 6 times vertically - but work last sc row from WS as follows: ch 1, 2 sc in 1st ch-space, 1 sc in next bobble, 1 sc in next ch-space, * 1 sc in next tr, 1 sc in next ch-space, 1 sc in next bobble, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row, but finish with 2 sc in last ch-space = 125-133-145-161-177-193 sc.
Then work PATTERN A.3 - read explanation above. When 2ND ROW has been worked, there are 125-133-145-161-177-193 sc on row. Work A.3 a total of 6 times vertically - but on last sc row from WS inc 10-12-14-16-18-20 sc evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 135-145-159-177-195-213 sc, piece now measures approx. 48-48-50½-50½-53-53 cm / 19"-19"-20"-20"-21"-21".
Continue to work PATTERN A.4 1 time - read explanation above - AT THE SAME TIME on sc row from WS inc 9-11-13-11-13-15 sts evenly = 144-156-172-188-208-228 sc. Work A.4 a total of 6-7-7-8-8-9 times vertically (last row = sc row from WS), piece now measures approx. 58-60-62-63-66-68 cm / 22 3/4"-23½"-24½"-24 3/4"-26"-26 3/4".
Do not cut the thread. Insert 1 marker 36-39-43-47-52-57 sc in from each side on last sc row (= 72-78-86-94-104-114 sc between markers on back piece).

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 36-39-43-47-52-57 sc. Continue with A.4 - AT THE SAME TIME dec for armholes on next row from RS as follows: Work dc until 3 sc remain before marker = 33-36-40-44-49-54 dc, turn (= skip 3 sts before marker) and work 1 sc row from WS.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 2 SECTIONS BEFORE CONTINUING.
Then dec for armhole at the end of every row from RS - READ DECREASE TIP - dc - as follows: Dec 3 dc 0-0-1-1-1-2 times, 2 dc 1-1-1-3-4-5 times, and 1 dc 1-3-3-2-3-1 time.
AT THE SAME TIME when A.4 has been worked a total of 5-6-6-6-6-6 times vertically (counted from marker in last sc row before armhole dec), dec for neck on next dc row from RS as follows: Cut the thread, ch 3 (= 1 dc) in the 7th-7th-8th-8th-9th-9th sc from mid front (= skip 6-6-7-7-8-8 dc from mid front), work dc - AT THE SAME TIME continue armhole dec at the end of row if it is not done, turn and work 1 sc row from WS.
Then dec at beg of every row from RS as follows: Dec 2 dc 2 times and 1 dc 2 times. When all dec are done, 18-19-19-20-21-23 sts remain for shoulder.
Work A.4 a total of 11-12-13-13-14-14 times vertically (counted from marker in last sc row before armhole dec), piece measures approx. 76-80-84-86-89-91 cm / 30"-31½"-33"-34"-35"-35 3/4" (finish with 1 sc row), cut and fasten the thread.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 36-39-43-47-52-57 sc. Continue with A.4 - AT THE SAME TIME dec for armholes on next row from RS as follows: Skip the first 3 sc from marker in the side, work 3 ch (= 1 dc) in next sc (= 4th sc from marker), work dc the entire row = 33-36-40-44-49-54 dc, turn and work 1 sc row from WS.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 2 SECTIONS BEFORE CONTINUING.
Then dec for armhole at beg of every row from RS as follows: Dec 3 dc 0-0-1-1-1-2 times, 2 dc 1-1-1-3-4-5 times, and 1 dc 1-3-3-2-3-1 time. AT THE SAME TIME when A.4 has been worked a total of 5-6-6-6-6-6 times vertically (counted from marker in last sc row before armhole dec), dec for neck on next dc row from RS as follows: Continue with armhole dec at beg of row if it is not done, work dc until 6-6-7-7-8-8 dc remain from mid front, turn and work 1 sc row from WS.
Then dec at end of every row from RS as follows: Dec 2 dc 2 times and 1 dc 2 times. When all dec are done, 18-19-19-20-21-23 sts remain for shoulder.
Work A.4 a total of 11-12-13-13-14-14 times vertically (counted from marker in last sc row before armhole dec), piece measures approx. 76-80-84-85-89-91 cm / 30"-31½"-33"-34"-35"-35 3/4" (finish with 1 sc row), cut and fasten the thread.

BACK PIECE:
= 72-78-86-94-104-114 sc. Continue with A.4 - AT THE SAME TIME dec for armholes on next row from RS as follows: Skip 3 sc from marker on right side of piece, work 3 ch in next sc (= 1st dc in 4th sc from marker), 1 dc in every sc until 3 sc remain from next marker = 66-72-80-88-98-108 dc, turn (= skip 3 sc in each side) and work 1 sc row from WS.
Then dec for armhole at beg and end of every row from RS as follows: Dec 3 dc 0-0-1-1-1-2 times, 2 dc 1-1-1-3-4-5 times, and 1 dc 1-3-3-2-3-1 time = 60-62-64-66-70-74 sts remain. Work A.4 a total of 9-10-11-11-12-12 times vertically (counted from marker in last sc row before armhole dec).

RIGHT SHOULDER:
From RS work 19-20-20-21-22-24 dc, turn and work 19-20-20-21-22-24 sc from WS, turn. On next row from RS, dec 1 dc at the end of row for neck = 18-19-19-20-21-23 dc remain for shoulder. Work 1 sc row from WS = a total of 11-12-13-13-14-14 repetitions A.4 vertically (counted from marker in last sc row before armhole dec), cut and fasten the thread, piece measures approx. 76-80-84-85-89-91 cm / 30"-31½"-33"-34"-35"-35 3/4".

LEFT SHOULDER:
Now work from RS, beg from neck as follows: Count 19-20-20-21-22-24 sts in from left side and beg with 3 ch in this sc. Then work 1 dc in each of the 18-19-19-20-21-23 dc the entire row. (I.e. do not work over the middle 22-22-24-24-26-26 sts = neck.) Turn and work 1 sc in every dc, turn. On next row (= dc), dec 1 dc at the beg of row for neck = 18-19-19-20-21-23 dc. Work 1 row with sc, cut and fasten the thread, piece measures approx. 76-80-84-85-89-91 cm / 30"-31½"-33"-34"-35"-35 3/4".

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth.
Ch 37-37-42-42-47-47 LOOSELY with Karisma on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7, turn and work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in every ch the entire row = 36-36-41-41-46-46 sc, turn (1st row = WS). Work 4 more sc rows = a total of 5 sc rows, piece measures approx. 2½ cm / 7/8''.
Then work PATTERN A.2 = 7-7-8-8-9-9 repetitions + 1 tr. When 2ND ROW has been worked, there are 36-36-41-41-46-46 sc on row.
Work A.2 a total of 3 times vertically - but on last sc row from WS inc 0-4-2-4-6-8 sc evenly = 36-40-43-45-52-54 sc (piece now measures approx. 10 cm / 4''). Then work A.4 until finished measurements - AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 dc in the outermost sc in each side on 1st dc row - READ INCREASE TIP = 2 dc inc. Repeat inc in each side on every other dc row (i.e. every 4th row) 8-8-8-8-7-7 more times = 54-58-61-63-68-70 sts (= 9-9-9-9-8-8 times). Continue until A.4 has been worked a total of 21-21-20-20-19-19 times vertically (last row = sc row from WS), piece measures approx. 45-45-43½-43½-42-42 cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17"-17"-16½"-16½" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders). Then dec for sleeve cap on next dc row from RS as follows: Sl sts until 4th sc, ch 3 in same sc (= 1st dc), 1 dc in every sc until 3 sc remain on row = 48-52-55-57-62-64 dc, turn and work 1 sc row from WS. Continue dec for sleeve cap in each side on every row from RS as follows: Dec 3 dc 1-2-2-2-2-2 times, 2 dc 2-2-2-3-4-4 times, 1 dc 1-0-1-1-1-1 time, 2 dc 2-2-2-1-1-1 time. On next row from RS, dec 3 dc in each side of piece = 18-18-19-21-22-24 sts remain. On next row from WS, dec 3 sc in each side of piece - READ DECREASE TIP - SC = 12-12-13-15-16-18 sc remain, cut and fasten the thread. The piece now measures approx. 57 cm / 22½'' in all sizes.
Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams in outermost sts with fine stitches. Sew in sleeves, sew sleeve seams tog.

COLLAR:
Work from RS approx. 80 - 100 sc along the entire neck edge (beg at the top of right front piece). Then work 1 sc row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 80-82-84-88-92-94 sc. Work 4 more sc rows = a total of 6 sc rows. On next row inc 3 sc evenly on row = 83-85-87-91-95-97 sc. Continue with sc rows until a total of 11 sc rows have been worked. On next sc row, inc 3-6-4-5-6-4 sc evenly = 86-91-91-96-101-101 sc. Then work A.2 (= 17-18-18-19-20-20 repetitions + 1 tr) 1 time vertically. Work 2 more sc rows, cut and fasten the thread, collar measures approx. 9 cm / 3½''.

FRONT BAND:
Work from RS approx. 130 - 150 sc along the entire edge mid front on right front piece (incl short side of collar). Then work 1 sc row from WS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 128-134-138-140-144-148 sc. On next row from RS work as follows: Work sc until 80-84-84-84-88-90 sc remain on row, * ch 2, skip 2 sc, work 13-14-16-17-17-18 sc *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, ch 2, skip 2 sc, work 12 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, work the last 2 sc on row = 4 buttonholes, turn. Then work 2 more sc rows (work 2 sc in every ch-space), cut and fasten the thread = 5 sc rows in total.
Work band the same way mid front along left front piece but without buttonholes.
Sew on 4 buttons on to left band.

FLAP:
Worked in the round. Ch 19 LOOSELY with Karisma on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7, turn and work 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in every ch until 1 ch remains on row, work 3 sc in last ch, turn piece and continue to work 1 sc in every ch on the other side of ch row - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE!
On next round work 1 sc in every sc but in each short side inc 1 sc (by working 2 sc in same sc) in each of the middle 3 sc (= 3 inc sts in each short side). Continue in the round with inc in each short side the same way until flap measures approx. 14-14-15-15-16-16 cm / 5½"-5½"-6"-6"-6 1/4"-6 1/4" in width, work 1 sl st in next sc, cut and fasten the thread.
Place flap in the middle of back piece where pattern A.3 goes over to A.4. Sew on 1 button on each side through both layers.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 bobble with 5 tr: Work 1 tr in next sc - but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 4 sc the same way, pull thread through all 6 sts on hook.
symbols = 1 bobble with 4 tr: Work 1 tr in next sc - but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 3 sc the same way, pull thread through all 5 sts on hook.
symbols = 1 bobble with 3 tr: Work 1 tr in next sc - but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 tr in each of the next 2 sc the same way, pull thread through all 4 sts on hook.
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = 1 sc
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1ST ROW in patterns
symbols = 2ND ROW in patterns
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 143-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Comments / Questions (101)

country flag Delyen De La Cruz Velita wrote:

Buenas tardes, me gustaría saber cuántas vuelta hago con los cinco puntos altos en la misma, delos cuatro pa en la misma cadena y de los 3 pa en la misma, etc del abrigo color mostaza se le gradecer eternamente gracias x por su atención.

15.08.2021 - 23:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Delyen, el tamaño de las motas (A.1, A.2, A.3) depende de la talla. El número de repeticiones en la fila y el número de filas depende de la talla, por lo que sin saber la talla no podemos concretarlo. Por ejemplo, A.1 (la mota de 5 pa) para la talla S se repite 5 veces en vertical., e.t.c.

16.08.2021 kl. 18:43

country flag Delyen wrote:

Hola buenas tardes me gustaría que nos brinde en video el tutorial ya que me es difícil entender soy principiante, del abro color moztasa

15.08.2021 - 23:37

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Delyen, no hacemos vídeos personalizados, pero puedes encontrar bajo el patrón aquellos vídeos que puedan servirte de ayuda para realizar la labor.

16.08.2021 kl. 18:37

country flag Soco Martinez wrote:

Hola buenas noches soy nueva y todavia no entiendo muy bien los patrones me gustaria mas un tutorial, esta precioso el sueter mostaza o especificar un poco mas como se hacen los puntos del saco parte alta y baja y son piezas separadas gracias

08.02.2021 - 01:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Soco! La chaqueta se trabaja de abajo hacia arriba empezando por el CUERPO hasta las sisas, luego trabajará diferentes piezas por separado. Luego, las mangas se trabajarán y coserán. Terminar con cuello, bandas y solapa. Buen trabajo!

11.02.2021 kl. 08:08

country flag Anika wrote:

Hello! I'm working on this pattern and I have two questions about the right front instructions. 1. When it says to decrease 3dc 0 times, does that mean I work one row of dc with a decrease? 2. For the neck shaping, it says to chain 3 in the 7th sc from center front, but it's not clear to me what center front is referring to. Thank you!

25.01.2021 - 22:46

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Anika, When it says increase x 0, it means that in your size you do not need to increase. The centre front is the edge of the front piece, so the 7th sc from the centre front is the 7th sc from the band-edge. Happy crocheting!

26.01.2021 kl. 07:33

country flag Klaartje wrote:

Ik zie in de opmerkingen en vragen dat er wordt verwezen naar het telpatroon. Waar kan ik dat vinden?

24.10.2020 - 14:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Klaartje,

Het telpatroon staat helemaal onderaan de beschrijving en dan onder de matentekening (beetje verstopt onder de mouw :))

25.10.2020 kl. 19:09

country flag Jessica wrote:

Hola , quisiera saber como identificar las tallas por ejemplo la s

30.07.2020 - 19:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Jessica. Debido a que el tallaje es diferente en cada país, para elegir la talla correcta, utiliza como referencia las medidas de la prenda que tienes bajo del patrón. Cuando tengas duda entre dos tallas, siempre recomendamos elegir la talla más grande.

02.08.2020 kl. 20:25

country flag Andra Visan wrote:

Hello! I have finished the body of the jacket and I am somehow struggling with the rest of the pattern. The left piece, right piece, back piece, right shoulder, left shoulder and the sleeves are worked separately and afterwords we assemble them together? Because I thought each section would start with a chain. Thank you!

27.06.2020 - 09:19

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Visan, after body you finish each front piece and back piece separately and you will sew then shoulder together. Work now A.4 and replace the first stitch at the beg of each row with 1 ch (= if dc row (Uk-English)/sc row (US-English) or 3 chains (= if tr row (UK-English)/dc row (US-English) depending on the row worked. Happy crocheting!

29.06.2020 kl. 07:54

country flag Veronique wrote:

Bonjour, j'aimerais faire cette veste mais plutôt pour l'été, donc peut-être avec du coton ou un mélange. Que me conseillez-vous ? Merci

28.03.2020 - 22:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véronique, vous pouvez utiliser une autre qualité du groupe B - vous trouverez plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici, utilisez notre convertisseur sur le modèle pour connaître la quantité dans la nouvelle qualité choisie. N'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS, même par mail ou téléphone - pour toute assistance au choix du nouveau fil. Bon crochet!

30.03.2020 kl. 10:09

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Hallo. Ich komme leider am Vorderteil schon nicht weiter. Muss ich jede Hinrunde (bei Gr. S) 1x2 Stb. und 1x1 Stb. abnehmen in einer Runde? Irgendwie verstehe ich das nicht. Dann hab ich nach 11x MusterA4 aber keine 18 Maschen mehr. Es kommen ja noch die Abnahmen für den Halsausschnitt dazu. Ich glaube ich steh auf dem Schlauch....

07.01.2019 - 16:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Yvonne, in der Größe S beginnt der rechte Vorderteil mit 36 M - 3 M = 33 Stb. Dann werden für das Armloch 2 Stb x 1 + 1 Stb x 1 abgenommen = 30 Stb. Dann werden 6 Stb abgenommen/übersprungen = 24 Stb und für den Hals: 2 Stb x 2 + 1 Stb x 2 = 18 Stb bleiben. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

08.01.2019 kl. 08:34

country flag Joanna wrote:

Dzień dobry, bardo chciałabym zrobić ten sweter, ale nie wszystko jest dla mnie jasne. We wzorze powołujecie się na schemat A.4, niestety nie widzę go nigdzie. Jak powinien wyglądać fragment ściegu fantazyjnego. Na dolny rysunku jest pokaane kilka "pęczków" słupków A.1, A.2 i A.3, ale czy tznaczy, że w takiej kolejności powinny być przerabiane? Czy słowo"raport" w tekście jest równoznaczne z "pęczkiem słupków"? pozdrawiam, Joanna

18.04.2018 - 16:40

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Joanno! Schemat A.4 jest wyjaśniony w objaśnieniach (na górze), tj. RZĄD 1 (= na prawej stronie robótki): przerobić 1 rząd słupków. RZĄD 2 (= na lewej stronie robótki): przerobić 1 rząd oczek ścisłych. 1 raport A.1= 1 powtórzenie schematu A.1. Ściegi fantazyjne wg schematów A.1, A.2 i A.3 są przerabiane zgodnie z opisem (kolejność taka jak w objaśnieniach). Miłej pracy!

18.04.2018 kl. 18:22

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