DROPS / 140 / 47

Dora by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS wide jacket with lace pattern and shawl collar in ”Polaris”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no PO-058
Yarn group F
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-94-106-118-128-140 cm /
34½"-37"-41 3/4"-46½"-50½"-55"
Full length: 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm /
23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''

Materials: DROPS POLARIS from Garnstudio
900-1000-1100-1200-1300-1400 g color no 04, medium gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 15 mm/ US 19 - or size needed to get 7 sts x 8 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Polaris uni colour DROPS Polaris uni colour 5.80 $ /100g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 52.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
TIP FOR SWITCHING BALLS:
When switching ball with Polaris, split the old strand in two on the last 15 cm / 6'' – cut off one part, do the same on the new strand. Place the first and last 15 cm / 6'' on top of each other so that the yarn is the normal thickness and continue to work – this is done to make the switching invisible.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
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RIGHT FRONT PIECE + SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on a circular needle to make room for all the sts. READ TIP FOR SWITCHING BALLS!
Cast on 23-24-26-27-29-31 sts on circular needle size 15 mm / US 19 with Polaris. K 3 rows.
Work next row as follows from RS: A.1 (= 12 sts), stockinette st over the last 11-12-14-15-17-19 sts. Continue like this. When piece measures 38-39-40-41-42-43 cm / 15-15¼''-15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17'', cast on 10-10-9-8-7-6 new sts at the end of next row from RS = 33-34-35-35-36-37 sts.
Insert a marker - NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work the new sts in stockinette st except the outermost 2 sts which are K on all rows.
When piece measures approx. 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm / 8 3/4''-9''-9½''-9 3/4''-10 1/4''-10 5/8'' from marker (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), work the first 12 sts as before, then slip these sts on a stitch holder = 21-22-23-23-24-25 sts remain on needle, work the rest of row. Insert another marker (= mid on top of shoulder) – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work 1 row over sts on needle. Slip sts on a stitch holder and put piece aside.

LEFT FRONT PIECE + SLEEVE:
Work as right front piece but reversed - work A.2 instead of A.1. Work the 12 sts in A.2 at the top by shoulder from WS before slipping them on a stitch holder. Work the rest of row, continue with back piece without slipping sts on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
Work 1st row from RS as follows: Work sts from left front piece + sleeve, cast on 9-9-9-11-11-11 new sts (= back of neck) and work right front piece + sleeve on to circular needle = 51-53-55-57-59-61 sts.
Continue back and forth in stockinette st with 2 edge sts in each side which are K on all rows, until piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm / 8 3/4''-9''-9½''-9 3/4''-10 1/4''-10 5/8'' from marker mid on top of shoulder.
On next row bind off the first and last 10-10-9-8-7-6 sts, cut the thread. Work in stockinette st over the remaining 31-33-37-41-45-49 sts.
When piece measures approx. 57-59-61-63-65-67 cm / 22½''-23¼''-24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8'' (make sure that next row is worked from WS), K 3 rows over all sts, then loosely bind off with K from RS.

COLLAR:
Slip the 12 sts from stitch holder on right front piece back on circular needle.
Cast on 1 new st towards the shoulder = 13 sts. Continue as before with 1 edge st in the side which is K on all rows. When collar measures approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm / 2¾''-2¾''-2¾''-3 1/8''- 3 1/8''- 3 1/8'', bind off.
Work the same way over sts from stitch holder on left front piece. Sew collar parts tog edge to edge mid back, and sew collar to back of neck inside edge st.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve and side seam in one, sew tog edge to edge in outermost sts to avoid a chunky seam.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= 1 YO between 2 sts


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 140-47) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (47)

Murielle Kingsbury 05.06.2020 - 06:29:

Apres avoir 27cm du marqueur ...a l'endroit tricoter les 12 ere m .? .end?puis mettre m. en attente..tricoter les m restantes . .. tricoter 1 rang sur les m de l'aiguille (maintenant cote envers???) et les glisser en attente???? j\enchaine . avec le a-2 sur les 12 m envers??? que je remets encore en attente???? je me retrouve avec ma laine au debut des 12m cote endroit....comment je peut continuer avec les m restantes... Comment et OU je commence le dos ????Merci!!!!!!!

DROPS Design 05.06.2020 kl. 07:51:

Bonjour Mme Kingsbury, à 27 cm du marqueur, au début du rang suivant sur l'endroit, vous tricotez les 12 premières mailles et les glissez en attente = les mailles de A.1 (devant droit/manche) ou bien les 12 premières mailles sur l'envers = celles de A.2 (devant gauche/manche). Ces mailles seront ensuite reprises pour le col. Il vous reste maintenant 25 mailles sur l'aiguille, tricotez ces 25 mailles pour terminer le rang. Mettez 1 marqueur sur les mailles pour délimiter la hauteur, tricotez le devant gauche, puis le dos ainsi: les 25 m du devant gauche + montez 11 m + les 25 m du devant droit = 61 m. Bon tricot!

Murielle Kingsbury 28.05.2020 - 23:33:

Bonjour, sur le video qui accompagne le modele 140-47 nous tricotons 4 m de bordure au point mousse de chaque côté et avons déjà tricoté 2 fois le diagramme en hauteur. vous commencez le diagramme a-1 avec 2m end sur le video.. Mais quand on debute le modele avec 3 rangs end...,,,je me retrouve au début du 4e rang avec des mailles env.....???? je commence le diagramme A-1 avec 2 m envers ou 2 m endroit??????? Un gros merci a l'avance pour les info grandement toujours appréciées!

DROPS Design 29.05.2020 kl. 08:18:

Bonjour Mme Kingsbury, le 1er rang de A.1 (= sur l'endroit) commence par 2 m end, 2 m env puis 1 jeté, 1 m end, glissez ensuite 1 m à l'end, 1 m end, passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée, 3 m end et 2 m env. Comme le montre la vidéo également, après les 4 premières mailles au point mousse (= à l'endroit). Bon tricot!

رياضيات المتوسط 27.11.2019 - 14:21:

Merci pour les explications, elles sont trés éfficaces

Regnier 16.11.2019 - 10:22:

Bonjour J aime la torsade de votre modèle Dora mais je n arrive pas à bien visualiser sa réalisation sur la vidéo Auriez vous une explication écrite ? Je ne comprends pas comment réaliser les mailles que vous semblez tourner ! Merci pour votre réponse Cordialement Catherine Regnier

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 08:58:

Bonjour Mme Regnier, vous trouverez ici la vidéo pour le point ajouré A.1 et là, la vidéo du point ajouré A.2. Bon tricot!

Doris 17.02.2018 - 17:21:

Kann ich die Jacke auch mit Drops Cloud stricken?

DROPS Design 19.02.2018 kl. 09:23:

Liebe Doris, 1 Faden F (= Polaris) = 2 Fäden E (= Cloud, Eskimo, Andes), so können Sie auch mit 2 Fäden Cloud stricken, wenn Sie doch einige haben, bei uns wird diese Wolle nicht mehr verfügbar. Sie können auch mit 4 Fäden Air stricken - hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternative. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Carol 05.10.2016 - 04:51:

What number yarn is this is it knitted worsted 100%acrylic

DROPS Design 05.10.2016 kl. 08:54:

Dear Carole, please find all relevant informations about the yarn on its shadecard - for any further individual help, you are welcome to contact your DROPS store. Happy knnitting!

HELENE CHARDON 21.02.2015 - 12:12:

Bonjour, Je suis en train de tricoter le modèle en question. Comme il m'a fallu quasiment 300 grammes pour faire un devant, je suppose que je n'aurai pas assez des 900 grammes préconisés pour la taille S. Je tricote pourtant "serré". Il va me falloir trouver, acheter et transporter 3 pelotes complémentaires du même bain. Dur-dur ! De plus, il semble y avoir une erreur dans l'explication du devant droit : Le motif sur 12 mailles se fait en début de rang et non en fin.

DROPS Design 23.02.2015 kl. 11:11:

Bonjour Mme Chardon, pensez à toujours bien vérifier votre tension, vous devez avoir 7 m x 8 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm. Pour le devant droit, on commence bien par le motif, soit vu sur l'endroit: A.1 et jersey sur les 11 dernières m (en taille S). Bon tricot!

Bernardi 16.02.2015 - 20:29:

Bonsoir, pour le modèle en taille M il faut 1kg200 de laine voire 1kg300. Sur les tricots en grosse laine, votre grammage est souvent insuffisant.

DROPS Design 17.02.2015 kl. 15:39:

Bonjour Mme Bernardi, aviez-vous bien la bonne tension et conservé cette même tension pendant toute la réalisation soit 7 m x 8 rangs jersey = 10 x 10 cm ? Merci. Bon tricot!

Claire Thomas 08.11.2014 - 15:44:

Hi, I'm just wondering what size xxxl would be in normal UK women's dress sizes? I want to make for a friend who is a UK dress size 30 and wondered if xxxl would fit, thanks

DROPS Design 10.11.2014 kl. 09:09:

Dear Mrs Thomas, you will find at the end of the pattern a measurement chart with all measures taken flat from side to side, compare these to a similar garment she likes the shape to find out the matching size. Happy knitting!

Antje Schupp 31.05.2014 - 22:28:

Maschenprobe stimmt. Ich stricke Grüße M, ein Vorderteil hat jetzt über 30 cm. Das ist viel zu groß. Maschenzahl stimmt, alles richtig. Ich kann ziemlich gut stricken. Wenn ich glatt rechts weglasse, ist der STreifen Muster in Relation sehr breit. Was tun?

DROPS Design 03.06.2014 kl. 22:17:

Liebe Frau Schupp, die Vorderteile sind so berechnet, dass sie sich überlappen, daher die größere Breite. Die Zopfmusterbereiche sind als Blenden konzipiert, die in den Kragen übergehen. Auf dem Bild ist die Jacke offen und locker getragen. Wenn Sie Maschen an den Vorderteilen weglassen, haben Sie hinterher nicht mehr genügend für das Rückenteil.

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