Blueberry |
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Set of knitted socks, pants and jacket with round yoke and blackberry pattern for baby and children in DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Baby 21-24 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. PATTERN: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from RS. 1st row = RS. DECREASE TIP: Dec as follows 3 sts before marker: K 2 tog, K 1. Dec as follows after marker: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. BUTTON HOLES: bind off for button holes on right band. 1 button hole = bind off 3rd and 4th st from edge and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts. Bind off for button holes when piece measures: Size 1/3 months: 5, 10, 14, 19 and 23 cm / 2", 4", 5½", 7½" and 9" Size 6/9 months: 5, 10, 15, 20 and 25 cm / 2", 4", 6", 8" and 9¾" Size 12/18 months: 6, 12, 17, 23 and 28 cm / 2⅜", 4¾", 6¾", 9" and 11" Size 2 years: 6, 12, 18, 24 and 30 cm / 2⅜", 4¾", 7", 9½" and 11¾" Size 3/4 years: 6, 13, 20, 27 and 33 cm / 2⅜", 5⅛", 8", 10⅝" and 13" NOTE: Bind off for last button hole when 2 rows in garter st on band remain before neck edge. ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: BODY: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 120-134-150 (164-178) sts (includes 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. Work 4 rows in GARTER ST - see explanation above (1st row = RS). AT THE SAME TIME on last row, inc 18-20-24 (26-28) sts evenly = 138-154-174 (190-206) sts. Then work diagram M.1 with 5 band sts in garter st in each side. Remember BUTTON HOLES on right band - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures approx. 13-14-16 (17-19) cm / 5"-5½"-6¼" (6¾"-7½") - stop after 3rd row in diagram M.1 - work next row as follows from WS: Work 33-37-42 (46-50) sts (= left front piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole, work 56-64-74 (82-90) sts (= back piece), bind off 8 sts for armhole and work 33-37-42 (46-50) sts (= right front piece). Put piece aside and work the sleeves. SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 38-38-40 (42-45) sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. Work 8 rows in garter st (1st row = RS). AT THE SAME TIME on last row, inc 8-8-10 (8-9) sts evenly = 46-46-50 (50-54) sts. Then work diagram M.1 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4-4-5 (6-6) cm / 1½"-1½"-2" (2½"-2½"), inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 3-2-1½ (1½-2) cm / 1⅛"-¾"-½" (½"-¾") a total of 4-6-8 (10-10) times = 54-58-66 (70-74) sts – work the inc sts gradually in diagram M.1, work the sts that do not fit in pattern in garter st. When piece measures approx. 15-15-18 (22-26) cm / 6"-6"-7" (8¾"-10¼") - adjust after 3rd row in diagram M.1 - bind off 5 sts in each side (bind off at beg and end of row) = 44-48-56 (60-64) sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve. YOKE: Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 210-234-270 (294-318) sts. K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 34-37-43 (46-49) sts evenly (do not dec over bands) = 176-197-227 (248-269) sts. K 1 row from WS. Then work in garter st back and forth over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row dec 11-11-12 (12-13) sts evenly (do not dec over bands). Repeat dec every 6th row (from RS) a total of 8-9-10 (11-11) times = 88-98-107 (116-126) sts remain on needle. When piece measures approx. 23-25-28 (30-33) cm / 9"-9¾"-11" (11¾"-13") - adjust so that next row is worked from WS - dec 20-22-23 (24-34) sts evenly = 68-76-84 (92-92) sts remain on needle. NECK EDGE: Work as follows seen from from RS: 5 sts in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 2 and 5 sts in garter st. When neck edge measures 3-3-4 (4-4) cm / 1⅛"-1⅛"-1½" (1½"-1½"), bind off with K over K and P over P. ASSEMBLY: Sew the sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons. ----------------------------------------------------------- PANTS: LEG: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. LOOSELY cast on 56-60-64 (68-72) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with Alpaca. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2. When piece measures 8-8-9 (9-10) cm / 3⅛"-3⅛"-3½" (3½"-4"), switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-10 (12-12) sts evenly = 48-52-54 (56-60) sts. Then work in GARTER ST - see explanation above. When piece measures 9-9-10 (10-11) cm / 3½"-3½"-4" (4"-4½"), inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 4th-6th-7th (10th-13th) round a total of 9 times = 66-70-72 (74-78) sts. Continue in garter st. When piece measures approx. 16-19-22 (27-33) cm / 6¼"-7½"-8¾" (10½"-13") (make sure all inc are finished), divide at inside of leg and finish the piece back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip the legs on the same circular needle). Cast on 1 new st in each side for seam = 68-72-74 (76-80) sts. When piece measures 18-21-24 (29-35) cm / 7"-8¼"-9½" (11⅜"-13¾"), bind off 3 sts in each side = 62-66-68 (70-74) sts. Put piece aside and knit another leg the same way. PANTS: Slip both legs on the same circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 = 124-132-136 (140-148) sts. Insert a marker mid front. Work in garter st in the round on needle – AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st on each side of marker mid front – READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec on every other round a total of 6-6-6 (4-4) times = 112-120-124 (132-140) sts. When piece measures 29-35-38 (43-50) cm / 11½"-13¾"-15" (17"-19¾"), K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 24-24-24 (28-28) sts evenly = 136-144-148 (160-168) sts. Switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 and work rib = K 2/P 2 for 7-7-8 (9-9) cm / 2¾"-2¾"-3⅛" (3½"-3½"). LOOSELY bind off with K over K and P over P. Pants measures approx. 36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 14¼"-16½"-18" (20½"-23¼"). ASSEMBLY: Sew tog the opening between the legs. ------------------------------------------------------- SOCKS: PATTERN: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagrams show the pattern from RS. SOCK: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 40-44-44 (48-48) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Alpaca. K 1 round, then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 6-7-7 (8-8) cm / 2⅜"-2¾"-2¾" (3⅛"-3⅛"). K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly = 36-40-40 (44-44) sts. Keep the middle 12 sts at the front of sock (= upper piece) on needle, slip the remaining 24-28-28 (32-32) sts on a stitch holder. Work diagram M.1 back and forth over the 12 sts on upper piece for approx. 3-3½-4 (5-6) cm / 1⅛"-1¼"-1½" (2"-2⅜") – stop after one full repetition of diagram M.1 vertically. Cut the yarn. Keep the 12 sts on needle, knit up 8-10-10 (12-16) sts along one side of upper piece, slip the 24-28-28 (32-32) sts from stitch holder back on needle and knit up 8-10-10 (12-16) sts along the other side over upper piece = 52-60-60 (68-76) sts – NOTE: This is done without working the sts. Start round mid back and work diagram M.2 in the round over all sts for approx. 1½-2-2½ (3-3½) cm / ½"-¾"-⅞" (1⅛"-1¼") – finish either after 1st or 3rd row in diagram M.2. P 1 round and then bind off all sts except the 12 sts on upper piece. Work diagram M.1 back and forth for sole over these sts for approx. 9-10-11 (13-15) cm / 3½"-4"-4⅜" (5⅛"-6") – stop after one full repetition of diagram. Bind off and sew sole to sock - sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (68)
Manoa wrote:
Bonjour, Je viens de commencer le gilet et j'ai une question sur le diagramme : que signifie la mention "1 rapport" qui figure sur M1 et sur M2, svp ? Merci à vous. Manoa
22.11.2015 - 22:36DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Manoa, 1 rapport signifie 1 motif à répéter. Bon tricot!
23.11.2015 - 11:08Adela wrote:
Continuo: no se realizar esa parte de la pechera, organizar las secciones equitativamente etc,,etc,Por favor ¿cómo se hace? Abrazo Adela
28.09.2015 - 15:55DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela. Para calcular la frecuencia de las disminuciones, usar el número total de pts en la fila, menos los pts de la cenefa (por ej. 210 - 10 = 200 pts) y dividirlo entre el número de disminuciones a ser hechas (por ej. 34) = 5,8. Es decir, en este ejemplo, tejer juntos de derecho aprox. cada 5º y 6º pts.
29.09.2015 - 11:53Adela wrote:
..." AL MISMO TIEMPO, en la 1ª vta, dism 11-11-12 (12-13) pts Repetir la dism en cada 6ª vta (por el LD) un total de 8-9-10 (11-11) veces = 88-98-107 (116-126) pts restantes en la ag. Cuando la pieza mida aprox 23-25-28 (30-33) cm – ajustar para que la vta sig sea tejida por el LR – dism 20-22-23 (24-34) pts distribuidos equitativamente = 68-76-84 (92-92) pts restantes en la ag".T 4 con 269 pts en agja
28.09.2015 - 15:50DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela. Para calcular la frecuencia de las disminuciones, usar el número total de pts en la fila, menos los pts de la cenefa (por ej. 210 - 10 = 200 pts) y dividirlo entre el número de disminuciones a ser hechas (por ej. 34) = 5,8. Es decir, en este ejemplo, tejer juntos de derecho aprox. cada 5º y 6º pts.
29.09.2015 - 11:52Adela wrote:
Es decir: tejida la cenefa como dice el patrón (trabajada junto al cuerpo) .. ..queda tirante y mas o menos 1.5cm desnivelada con el resto de la prenda ," mas corta". ¿ cómo corrijo esto ?Adela Gracias,un abrazo
09.09.2015 - 11:38DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela. La diferencia entre la cenefa y el resto de la prenda seguramente es por no mantener la misma tensión del tejido ( la cenefa seguramente está trabajada más prieto que el resto de la prenda). Puedes probar a trabajar filas acortadas en la cenefa, es decir trabajar sólo los pts de la cenefa, girar, trabajar la vta en los pts de la cenefa, girar, trabajar otra vez los pts de la cenefa y continuar con toda la fila. En la cenefa del lado contrario trabajar de la misma manera. Las filas acortadas se repiten por ejemplo cada 3 cm. En todos casos, para esta prenda, manteniendo la tensión del tejido indicada se pude trabajar perfectamente siguiendo el patrón.
15.09.2015 - 08:57Adela wrote:
Cómo tejo el pto de orillo en cenefas, para que no queden (1,5cm mas cortas que el resto del cuerpo.?. Gracias ,un abrazo Adela
08.09.2015 - 16:00DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela. El pt orillo se trabaja en pt musgo. (siempre de derecho).
17.09.2015 - 22:37Adela wrote:
Me gustaría hacerle un orillo al borde(borde de ojales y botones) de 5 pts en musgo,he probado algunos pero dejan el borde mas corto que el resto de la prenda.Dime por favor que técnica empleo.Un abrazo
31.08.2015 - 20:49DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela. ¿Puedes concretar tu pregunta? Esta prenda lleva una cenefa de 5 pts en pt musgo y se trabaja junto con el cuerpo.
08.09.2015 - 11:35Adela wrote:
Me gusta mucho estoy terminando el tercero.El de T2 lo hice con 19cm de altura hasta la sisa y resultó corto(19cm para T 4) por que es así?por lo que a este lo haré con 24cm. Te felicito y agradezco tu amabilidad adela
12.04.2015 - 16:51Adela Nassif wrote:
Veo un error(tal vez me equivoque) en los largos de saco(dice19cm) y de manga (dice26cm)hasta la sisa, en el talle Nº4; Me parecen escasos. Podrias decirme ,si es así,cuales son las medidas correctas? Otro tema :aumentar (por ej) cada 6Vueltas es: si disminuyo la 1º vez LD,cuándo la prox vez?sobre la 6º v. o en la 7º v. del LR ?Por ultimo ,las dism en el canesú :que método de dism,se aplica para que queden bien? Graaaacias...
03.04.2015 - 15:15DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela, las medidas del diagrama son correctas. El tema de las disminuciones, la primera es por el LD en la 1ª fila de pt musgo, después dice cada 6ª fila a partir de ésta, es decir, sería la 7ª fila de pt musgo (LD), después la 13...y por último las disminuciones se hacen mediante 2 pjd.
05.04.2015 - 11:14Adela Nassif wrote:
El largo de 19cm desde el comienzo hasta comenzar la sisa es muy corto para los 4 años, Por favor aclarame esto.El canesu incide ...de qué manera en el largo total?Si hay un método para que el borde en p. musgo( prendedura del saquito)no quede mas corto que el resto o mas tirante ,explicalo. Sos una genia. Abrazo Gracias
02.04.2015 - 22:07DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela, el largo es en principio normal. Si te parece corto puedes aumentarlo ya que se trabaja recto. El canesú no lo varíes, son 14 cm y es suficiente para esa edad. Para que el borde quede más igualado hay que trabajar el primer/último pt de derecho.
04.04.2015 - 21:25Adela Nassif wrote:
Para que sea 47cm segun esquema T4,que medidas se suman en la manga? porqu 26cm +14cm de hombro no dan 47cmcomo total de hombro mas largo de manga.O acaso los 6cm del comienzo se suman a los 26cm hasta la sisa? gracias
16.03.2015 - 12:32DROPS Design answered:
Hola Adela. La manga hasta el canesú mide 26 cm, la manga entera 14 + 26 = 40 cm; 47 cm mide la mitad de la chaqueta con la manga ( fijate en la marca desde el centro del delantero) 7 cm (la mitad del escote desde el centro) + 14 del canesú + 26 de la manga = 47 cm
20.03.2015 - 10:50