Julien by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with v-neck and cables in ”Fabel”. Size 3 - 12 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no FA-005-bn
Yarn group A
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 64-70-74-78-84 cm / 25"-27½"-29"-30 3/4"-33"
Full length: 40-43-46-49-52 cm / 15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4"-20½"

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
200-200-250-300-350 g color no 103, gray blue
50 g for all sizes in color no 107, blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 2.5 mm/US 1or2 - or size needed to get 26 sts x 34 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 – all rows in diagram shows pattern from RS, 1 repetition = 24 sts in width.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to armholes and neck):
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st + 3 sts in stockinette st at the armhole, and inside 1 st in garter st at the neck. All dec are done from RS as follows:
Dec AFTER 4/1 st: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec BEFORE 4/1 st: K 2 tog.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to neck edge):
Dec on each side of the 2 K sts mid front of neck as follows: Work until 1 st remains before the 2 K sts, K 2 tog, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 212-224-240-252-268 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with blue. K 1 round, continue in rib = K 2/P 2 for 2 rounds. Switch to gray blue and continue rib until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''.
Work next round as follows (insert a marker at beg of round):

SIZE 3/4 YEARS:
** K 2, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 6 times, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 4, K 2 tog, K 14, K 2 tog, K 4, repeat from [-] 1 time, K 2 tog, repeat from **-** a total of 5 times, * K 8, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 8 times, K 8 = 186 sts.

SIZE 5/6 YEARS:
** K 4, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 4 times, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 4, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog, K 6, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog, K 4, repeat from [-] 1 time, K 2 tog, repeat from **-** a total of 3 times, * K 7, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* a total of 10 times, K 8 = 198 sts.

SIZE 7/8 YEARS:
** K 2, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 2 times, K 2, K 2 tog, K 2, K 2 tog, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 4, (K 2 tog, K 3), repeat from (-) a total of 6 times, then from [-] 1 time, K 2 tog, K 2, K 2 tog, repeat from **-** a total of 2 times, * K 10, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times, K 4 = 210 sts.

SIZE 9/10 YEARS:
** K 4, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 4 times, K 4, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 4, (K 2 tog, K 6), repeat from (-) a total of 3 times, K 2 tog, K 4, repeat from [-] 1 time, repeat from **-** a total of 4 times, K 2, * K 2 tog, K 6 *, repeat from *-* a total of 14 times = 222 sts.

SIZE 11/12 YEARS:
** K 2, K 2 tog, K 4, K 2 tog **, repeat from **-** a total of 3 times, K 2, [K 6, K 2 tog, K 10, K 2 tog, K 6], K 2, (K 2 tog, K 4), repeat from (-) a total of 6 times, repeat from [-] 1 time, repeat from **-** a total of 3 times, K 8, * K 2 tog, K 7 *, repeat from *-* a total of 12 times = 234 sts.


ALL SIZES:
There are now 186-198-210-222-234 sts on needle. Work next round as follows: K 18-20-22-24-26, diagram M.1 (= 24 sts), K 24-26-28-30-32, diagram M.1 (= 24 sts) and K 96-104-112-120-128.
Continue the pattern like this until piece measures 27-29-31-33-35 cm / 10½"-11½"-12 1/4"-13"-13 3/4".
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Work next round as follows: bind off the first 6 sts for armhole, work as before over the next 96-102-108-114-120 sts (= front piece), bind off 6 sts for armhole, work in stockinette st over the last 78-84-90-96-102 sts (= back piece). Finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 78-84-90-96-102 sts. Work in stockinette st back and forth with 1 edge st in each side in GARTER ST – see explanation above! AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS, dec 1 st in each side inside 4 sts - SEE DECREASE TIP 1! Repeat dec every other row a total of 7-8-9-10-11 times = 64-68-72-76-80 sts remain on needle.
When piece measures 39-42-45-48-51 cm / 15 1/4"-16½"-17 3/4"-19"-20", bind off the middle 22-24-26-28-30 sts for neck and finish each shoulder (= 21-22-23-24-25 sts) separately.
Bind off when piece measures 40-43-46-49-52 cm / 15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4"-20½".

FRONT PIECE:
= 96-102-108-114-120 sts. Continue pattern back and forth on needle and bind off for armholes as on back piece. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 30-32-34-36-38 cm / 11 3/4"-12½"-13 3/8"-14 1/4"-15", slip the middle 6 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each side separately. Slip the sts in one side on to a stitch holder. Continue bind off for armholes – AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS dec 1 st towards the neck inside 1 st - SEE DECREASE TIP 1. Repeat dec every other row a total of 8-9-10-11-12 times.
After all bind off for armholes and dec for neck, 30-31-32-33-34 sts remain on shoulder. Continue pattern with 1 st in garter st in each side.
When piece measures approx. 39½-42½-45½-48½-51½ cm / 15½"-16 3/4"-17 3/4"-19"-20 1/4" (adjust so that next row is from RS), dec 2 sts over each of the small cables and 5 sts over the large cable in the middle by K tog sts 2 by 2 = 21-22-23-24-25 sts remain on shoulder. On next row, bind off the remaining sts. Piece measures approx. 40-43-46-49-52 cm / 15 3/4"-17"-18"-19 1/4"-20½".
Slip the stitches on the stitch holder back on needle and work as first side but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 48-52-52-56-56 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with blue. K 1 round, then work 1 round rib = K 2/P 2. Switch to gray blue. Continue rib until it measures 4 cm / 1½''.
Continue in stockinette st – AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round, dec 4 sts evenly = 44-48-48-52-52 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve).
When piece measures 6-6-6-7-7 cm / 2½"-2½"-2½"-2 3/4"-2 3/4", inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 2½ cm / 7/8" a total of 9-10-12-12-14 times = 62-68-72-76-80 sts. When piece measures 30-34-37-40-43 cm / 11 3/4"-13 3/8"-14½"-15 3/4"-17", bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve and work back and forth until finished measurements.
Continue to bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2-3-5-7-8 times, then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 34-39-43-47-51 cm / 13 1/4"-15 1/4"-17"-18½"-20". Now bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side, then bind off the remaining sts.
Sleeve measures approx. 35-40-44-48-52 cm / 13 3/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4"-19"-20½".

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

NECK:
Pick up 128-136-144-152-160 sts (divisible by 4, including sts on stitch holder at the front) inside 1 edge st around the neck on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with gray blue. (NOTE: If too few or too many sts have been picked up, inc or dec evenly on 1st round.) Work rib = K 2/P 2 – adjust so that 2 K sts are mid front. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd round, dec 1 st on each side of the 2 K sts mid front – SEE DECREASE TIP 2. Repeat dec every round until finished measurements.
When neck edge measures 2 cm / 3/4'', switch to blue. Work 2 more rounds in rib, then bind off with K over K and P over P.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 2, K 2 from cable needle

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 22-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

MARTINE PITSCHON 26.01.2020 - 19:04:

Bonsoir, je tricote la 1ère manche (1ère taille) : à 30 cm, rab. 6 mailles au milieu ... 3 fois 2m et 2 fois 1m. Rab. ensuite 2m de ch côté jusqu'à ce que le manche mesure 34 cm (?) : soit 4cm d'EMM. ? puis rab 1 fois 3 m de ch côté et rab les m. restantes. la manche mesure environ 35 cm ??? je ne comprends pas ces explications qui ne correspondent pas au schéma : 13 cm de hauteur d'EMM. Pouvez-vous m'expliquer !? Un grand merci

DROPS Design 27.01.2020 kl. 09:48:

Bonjour Mme Pitschon, la manche mesure bien 35 cm dans la 1ère taille comme le montre le schéma, et la tête de manche mesure 5 cm. La hauteur d'emmanchure = les 13 cm correspondent à la hauteur entre les mailles rabattues pour l'emmanchure dos/devant et l'épaule. Si vos mesures sont justes, vous aurez suffisamment de largeur de manche pour les assembler le long des emmanchures. Bon tricot!

Martha Christiansen 16.01.2019 - 22:50:

Jeg har strikket en sweater i drops big merino, med bærestykke/hestemønster mm. altid vasket efter vaskeanvisningen, samme maskine, samme vaskemiddel. Ved sidste vask filtede grundfarven lys rosa i bærestykket, totalt!! De andre farver i mønstret gjorde ikke, HVAD skyldes dette, meget meget mærkeligt og kedeligt.

DROPS Design 23.01.2019 kl. 09:51:

Hei Martha. Det var trist å høre, og veldig beklagelig. Big Merino er superwashbehandlet og skal derfor ikke toves i vask, så her er det en svikt i garnet. Ta kontakt med butikken du handlet garnet hos, og de vil hjelpe deg der. Hvis du fortsatt har merkelappen med batch-nummeret til fargen så er det veldig fint om du også kan ta denne med til butikken. Igjen, beklager så mye for dette.

Martha Christiansen 16.01.2019 - 22:39:

Jeg har strikket Julien model nr FA-005-bn i str 12. Jeg anvendte jeres omregner til garn af mærket Drops baby merino. Den anbefalede 10 nøgler. Jeg er nu færdig, og har blot lige startes på nr 7 nøgle. Strikkefastheden er tilpasset garnets vejledning. ---- Jeg synes godt nok det er en dårlig omregning...…….. man er ikke altid interesseret i for meget garn.

Barbara 22.05.2018 - 20:18:

Ich kenne mich bei der Anleitung nicht recht aus und zwar steht da für Vo/Rüteil erst 2 Abnahmen 6 x (3-4Jahre) danach kommt eine spitze Klammer mit Abnahmen, wie stricke ich denn jetzt genau, erst die Abnahmen 6 x danach die spitze Klammer? Komme nicht auf die 186 M. Danke, Barbara

DROPS Design 23.05.2018 kl. 08:56:

Liebe Barbara, so werden Sie stricken: 2 re., 2 re. Zusammen = 4 M x 6 (= über 24 M), dann stricken Sie: [6 re., 2 re. zusammen, 10 re., 2 re. zusammen, 6 re.], dann stricken Sie 4 re., 2 re. zusammen, 14 re., 2 re. zusammen, 4 re., dann wiederholen Sie wieder von [-] 1 Mal wiederholen (= 6 re., 2 re. zusammen, 10 re., 2 re. zusammen, 6 re) , Dann 2 re. Zusammen. Jetzt (2 re., 2 re. Zusammen) x 5 Mal (= über die nächsten 20 M), * 8 re., 2 re. zusammen *, von *-* 8 Mal wiederholen, 8 re. = 186 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Lenoir 30.08.2017 - 15:02:

Est ce normal que le devant soit plus large que le dos? C'est la première fois que je trouve un modèle avec un dos et un devant différent Merci d'avance pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 30.08.2017 kl. 16:47:

Bonjour Mme Lenoir, le dos et le devant ont la même largeur, en revanche, le dos se tricote en jersey et le devant avec des torsades, d'où la différence du nombre de mailles pour les 2 pièces. Bon tricot!

Sissel 28.06.2016 - 20:44:

Jeg tenker at Julian-genseren kunne bli neste prosjekt, men jeg må ha str 4-5 år. Hvordan skal jeg legge en økn på ca 10 masker på bolen, i og med at antall masker på for- og bakstykke er litt forskjellig? Hvor mange masker tror dere jeg burde legge opp til ermene?

DROPS Design 29.06.2016 kl. 12:44:

Hej Sissel. Vi har desvaerre ikke mulighed for at hjaelpe dig med at tilpasse de gratis mönstre efter eget önske. Men som regel kan du klare dig langt ved brug af strikkefastheden. Du ved hvor stor tröjen skal vaere (bredde / höjde / omkreds erme) og du ved hvor mange m/p du har per 10 x 10 cm. Husk din strikkepröve naar du tilpasser. Held og lykke.

Laetitia 27.05.2016 - 14:15:

Bonjour, J ai un soucis pour tricoter ce modèle avec un dos et un devant ( je n ai pas les aiguilles doubles dans cette taille). Je veux le tricoter en taille 110/116. La partie qui me pose problème est celle après les 4cm de côtes 2/2. Soit c est un motif fantaisie qu il faut faire soit des diminutions en tout cas je ne vois pas comment faire pour répartir ce schema sur un dos et un devant J espère que vous pourrez m aider Merci!

DROPS Design 27.05.2016 kl. 14:50:

Bonjour Laëtitia, après les 4 cm de côtes, on fait un tour avec les diminutions indiquées - puis on va continuer en point fantaisie sur le devant (torsades) soit 20 m end, M.1 (= 24 m), 20 m end, M1 (= 24 m) et 104 m pour la fin du devant + le dos. Regardez ici pour adapter sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!

Kelly 11.11.2015 - 00:43:

Yes, you are correct. Thank you so much!

Kelly 09.11.2015 - 23:09:

The pattern will say for example, "Work next round as follows: K 18-20-22-24-26 (tel: 18-20-22-24-26)".

DROPS Design 10.11.2015 kl. 09:44:

Dear Kelly, you may have to check the settings of your browser, it looks like it is understood by your browser as a telephone number. Happy knitting!

Kelly 08.11.2015 - 21:05:

Hello there, my question is what does this mean? (tel:24-26-28-30-32) The "tel" part is stumping me. I have not seen this before. Thanks!

DROPS Design 09.11.2015 kl. 11:03:

Dear Kelly, sorry, I cannot find any "tel: 26-26-28-30-32" in any of the English patterns, could you tell me more? thank you!

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