DROPS design: Pattern no FA-172
Yarn group A
US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43
Foot length: approx. 22 - 24 - 27 cm / 8¾”-9½”-10½”
Leg length: approx. 20 - 21 - 21 cm / 8"-8 1/4"-8 1/4"

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in color no 100, off white
50 g for all sizes in color no 106, red

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3 mm / US 2or3 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagrams M.1 to M.6. Work the entire pattern in stockinette st.

Row 1 (= RS): Work until 9 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work until 9 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work until 8 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work until 8 sts remain, slip 1 st as if to P, P 1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 15 sts on needle.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 66-66-72 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with red Fabel. K 1 round, then work 4 rounds rib = K 1/P 1. Then work diagram M.1 over all sts.
When diagram M.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work diagram M.2 while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 72 in all sizes on first round in diagram M.2.
When diagram M.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work diagram M.3 while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 66-72-72 on first round in diagram M.3.
When M.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work 1 round with off white over all sts.
Continue to work as follows: Diagram M.4A (= 3 sts), diagram M.4B (= 25-31-31 sts), diagram M.4C (= 3 sts), diagram M.5 (= 35 sts).
NOTE! On round 8 and 16, dec 1 st on each side of diagram M.5 as shown in diagram = 62-68-68 sts.
When diagram M.5 has been worked 1 time vertically, slip 31-37-37 sts (= diagrams M.4A, B and C) on a stitch holder = 31 sts for heel.
Work diagram M.6 over heel sts for 5-5½-6 cm / 2"-2 1/4"-2 3/8", insert a marker, then decrease for heel - see HEEL DECREASE – continue pattern according to diagram M.6.
After heel decrease, knit up 12-13-14 sts on each side of heel (knit up alternately with red and off white to fit diagram M.6) and slip the 31-37-37 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 70-78-80 sts.
Continue the 31-37-37 sts on top of foot in diagram M.4 as before, work sts under foot in diagram M.6. AT THE SAME TIME dec on each side of diagram M.4 (sts on top of foot). K the 2 sts before diagram M.4A tog and K the 2 sts after diagram M.4C twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front), repeat dec every other round a total of 6 times = 58-66-68 sts.
Continue diagrams M.4 and M.6 until piece measures 17-18-21 cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4" from marker on heel (= 5-6-6 cm / 2"-2 3/8"-2 3/8" remain). Continue to work as follows: Diagram M.4A, diagram M.6 over the next 25-31-31 sts, diagram M.4C, diagram M.6 over the next 27-29-31 sts. AT THE SAME TIME dec for toes on each side of diagram M.4A/C.
Dec as follows before diagram M.4A/C:
K the last 2 sts tog.
Dec as follows after diagram M.4A/C: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Repeat dec every other round a total of 6-9-9 times and then every round a total of 4-1-1 times = 18-26-28 sts remain on needle.
On next round, K2 tog around with red = 9-13-14 sts.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off white
symbols = red
symbols = K 2 tog

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-789) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (23)

country flag Labernia Pascale wrote:

J ai fini la 1ère chaussette, mais je ne suis pas satisfaite du talon. En effet, comme indiqué, après les diminutions du talon j ai relevé les mailles en alternant le rouge et le blanc. Les mailles sont lâches alors que j ai bien tendu le fil. Est-ce un problème récurent à ce genre de talon rayé ? Sur vos photos on voit un peu ce problème... merci

22.11.2021 - 19:15:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Labernia, veillez bien à ce que les mailles lisières du talon ne soient pas trop lâche, vous pouvez par ex tricoter 1 m point point mousse de chaque côté du talon (vous pouvez par ex. augmenter ces 2 mailles au 1er du talon et les diminuer au dernier rang pour ne pas perturber le motif) et ensuite relever les mailles dans cette maille point mousse, votre talon peut être ainsi plus net. Votre magasin a peut être même d'autres astuces pour vous. Bon tricot!

23.11.2021 kl. 08:11:

country flag Theresa Suszko wrote:

Thank you for getting back to me on the decrease! I like it to when you go on you tube to help us out on our projects!

05.05.2021 - 02:42:

country flag Theresa Suszko wrote:

I tried the decrease so many times and kept getting holes ? Watched the video and she doesn’t say how to do it so I was wondering how do you do it without getting holes? Please?😎I love making your projects thank you!

03.05.2021 - 23:51:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Theresa, there isn't anything special about the decreases, K / P 1, and PSSO, but you do have to make sure to pull the yarn thight before and after turning the piece. If you still getting holes, you can try to pull up the thread befre the next stitch, put it on the needle twisted and knit together with the decreased stitches. Happy Knitting,

04.05.2021 kl. 04:05:

country flag Joanna wrote:

Thank you for your reply. I managed in the end to print the whole pattern. At first I found the pattern by putting the number in the search box, the pattern came up but wouldn’t print properly. So I searched for it by looking at every sock pattern you have, I eventually found it and it printed everything ok. Thank you again for your help.

02.10.2018 - 22:48:

country flag Joanna wrote:

Hello, I have tried to print the pattern but it has not included the diagram (chart). What am I doing wrong? It has everything else even the yarn prices which I don’t need printing. Please can you help.Thankyou

01.10.2018 - 20:39:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Joanna, we successfully could print this pattern including diagrams. Make sure you haven't selected a number of pages so that they will be all printed. Try to clean the browser's cache and try again. Should you still have worries to print whole pattern, please let us know which browser you are using. Happy knitting!

02.10.2018 kl. 09:33:

country flag Jannie wrote:

Er det en fejl eller. Sidder nu med 58m, og skal fortsætte med mønster således: m4a,m6 over de næste 25m og m4c,m6 over de næste 27m ? det tilsammen giver kun 52m, diff på 6m, hvad med dem ?

01.12.2016 - 14:04:

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jannie. M.4A og C er begge 3 masker: 3+25(=M.6)+3+27(=M.6) = 58 m i alt

01.12.2016 kl. 15:58:

country flag Laurie Flom wrote:

I just purchased Dale of Norway Heilo yarn (22 sts = 10 cm on US 3 or 4) and just started knitting the DROPS extra 0-789 socks. However, casting on 66 for a medium-sized woman's foot and then increasing to 72 sts make this sock huge! Comparing this to several other sock patterns I have, 72 sts (even 66) seems like way too many. Help?

05.03.2016 - 18:12:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Flom, This pattern has been written for DROPS Fabel with a tension of 24 sts x 32 rows, remember to check your tension - to get the best results we can only highly recommand to use original yarn. Happy knitting!

07.03.2016 kl. 10:52:

country flag Lea wrote:

Ich verstehe leider nicht, wie man M6 stricken muss, wenn es nicht rund gestrickt wird. Ich stecke fest bei der Anweisung "M6 über die Fersenmaschen stricken". Hier muss ich doch, um Vorder- und rückreihe zu stricken jeweils die Arbeit wenden und die Rückreihe folglich links stricken, oder? Ich verstehe nicht, wie man mit zwei Fäden links strickt, so dass es trotzdem auf der Vorderseite der Arbeit glatt rechts erscheint. Danke für Ihre Hilfe!

07.10.2014 - 12:18:

DROPS Design answered:

Ja genau, Sie stricken die Rück-R links. Dabei behalten Sie den Faden, den Sie gerade nicht benötigen und daher mitführen müssen, VOR der Arbeit, also auf genau derselben Seite wie vorher auch, dann bleibt die Arbeit ja auf der Vorderseite "fadenfrei". Im "Fair-Isle"-Video unter "Videos" oben im Kopf neben dem Foto können Sie sich das auch noch mal anschauen.

07.10.2014 kl. 14:06:

country flag Rijgwaart wrote:

Patroon 0-789 staat na mindering van78 st naar 66 dan breien tot lengte van18 cm dan minderen voor de tenen maar dan zijn er nog maar totaal 60 st over waar moeten die dan gemindert worden of is dit een druk fout

16.12.2012 - 15:03:

DROPS Design answered:

Waar komen de 60 st vandaan? Je had 78 st, mindert 6 keer 2 st (= 12) volgens de beschrijving en hebt dan 66 st op de nld. Dan brei je door tot een lengte van 18 cm vanaf de hiel. Je breit dan door volgens M.4A/C en M6 en mindert nu voor de tenen zoals beschreven.

19.12.2012 kl. 13:11:

Kathryn Golec wrote:

How do i find the size ie s m l. i am size 16 english so which size from s-xxxl would be the one i needed? love the wool cant wait to start clicking thankyou.

14.01.2012 - 11:51:

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