DROPS / 131 / 51

Simply Red by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS bolero with ¾ sleeves in “Alpaca”, “Vivaldi” and “Glitter”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-576
Yarn group A and C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm / 31½''-34 5/8''-37¾''-41¾''-46½''-51''
Full length: 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm / 13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17 ¼''

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
Color no 3620, red: 150-200-200-200-250-250 g
And use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
Color no 31, red: 100-100-100-150-150-150 g
And use: DROPS GLITTER from Garnstudio
Color no 08, red: 10-10-10-10-10-10 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand Alpaca, 1 strand Vivaldi and 1 strand Glitter = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Vivaldi DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives

60% Cupro, 40% Metal
from 2.50 $ /10g
DROPS Glitter colours DROPS Glitter colours 4.05 $ /10g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Glitter gold & silver DROPS Glitter gold & silver 2.50 $ /10g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
SEED ST:
1st row: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: K over P and P over K. Repeat 2nd row.

INCREASE TIP 1 (applies to body):
Inc 1 st on each side of markers as follows: Work 2 sts in 1 st on each side of marker.

INCREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeve):
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted (i.e. K or P in the back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.
NOTE: Work the new sts in seed st.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 98-108-124-138-158-176 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 1 strand Alpaca, 1 strand Vivaldi and 1 strand Glitter. Work in seed st - see explanation above (1st row = RS). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 5-5-6-6-7-7 cm / 2''-2''-2 3/8''-2 3/8''-2 3/4''-2 3/4'', insert 2 markers in the piece; 20-22-26-29-34-38 sts (= front piece) in from each side (back piece = 58-64-72-80-90-100 sts). Move the markers upwards when working. On next row, inc 1 st on each side of each markers - Read INCREASE TIP 1 above = 4 new sts. Repeat inc every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' a total of 5 times in all sizes = 118-128-144-158-178-196 sts. Continue until piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm / 7½''-8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½'', divide the piece at the markers and finish each part separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 68-74-82-90-100-110 sts. Now bind off for armholes in beg of every row each side as follows: 3 sts 0-1-1-2-3-4 times, 2 sts 2-1-2-2-4-4 times and 1 st 2-3-4-4-1-2 times = 56-58-60-62-64-66 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm / 12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''. Now bind off for shoulder and neck as follows: bind off the first 6 sts on row, work 14-14-15-15-16-16 sts, bind off the next (= middle) 16-18-18-20-20-22 sts for neck, work the rest of row. Now finish each shoulder separately. Bind off the first 6 sts on next row from WS = 14-14-15-15-16-16 sts remain. On next row from RS (i.e from neck) bind off 1 st. Bind off the first 6 sts on next row from WS = 7-7-8-8-9-9 sts remain. Loosely bind off all sts on next row from RS, piece now measures approx. 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm / 13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17 ¼''. Work the other shoulder the same way but reversed.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 25-27-31-34-39-43 sts. Bind off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 19-19-20-20-21-21 sts remain for shoulder. Continue until piece measures 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm / 12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½'', bind off for shoulder as follows: bind off on every row from shoulder 6 sts 2 times, bind off the remaining 7-7-8-8-9-9 sts on next row.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth with 1 strand Alpaca, 1 strand Vivaldi and 1 strand Glitter on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8. Cast on 36-38-40-42-44-46 sts (includes 2 edge sts), and work in seed st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side - Read INCREASE TIP 2 = 2 new sts on needle. Repeat inc every 3½-3½-3-2½-2-2 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 7-7-8-9-10-10 times = 50-52-56-60-64-66 sts. When piece measures 32-33-32-32-32-32 cm / 12½"-13"-12½"-12½"-12½"-12½", bind off for sleeve cap in beg of every row each side as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1-1-2-2 times, and 1 st in each side until piece measures 40-41-41-41-42-42 cm / 15 3/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/8"-16 1/8"-16½"-16½". Now bind off in beg of every row each side: 2 sts 2 times and 3 sts 1 time. Loosely bind off all sts on next row from RS (piece now measures approx. 43-44-44-44-45-45 cm / 17"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"). Work another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew sleeves tog inside 1 edge st and sew in sleeves.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 131-51) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (45)

Alexandra 01.11.2019 - 18:09:

Ich verstehe die Anleitung für das Abketten für den Armausschnitt am Rückenteil nicht. Wenn ich den Text "0-1-1-2-3-4 Mal 3 M" so verstehe, dass ich in R1 0 M abkette, R2 1X3 M, R3 1X3 M auf jeder Seite, dann komme ich auf rechts 79 M abketten und links auch 79 M abketten. Da aber die Arbeit nur 110 M hat, ist das ja nicht möglich. Mit ist klar, dass ich den Text nicht richtig interpretiere, aber wie ist er richtig zu interpretieren? Könnt ihr mir da bitte weiter helfen?

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 16:02:

Liebe Alexandra, in der 1. Größe ketten Sie bei der 1. Reihe 2 Maschen ab, dh direkt mit den 1. Abkette anfangen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Anne Christine Bang 01.04.2019 - 20:26:

Hei. Jeg har begynt å strikke denne jakken. På bildet ser det ut som det er en felling på forstykket opp mot halsdelen. Jeg finner ikke dette igjen på mønsteret. Heller ikke på diagrammet/ det tegnete mønsteret. Jeg vil gjerne ha jakken slik som den er vist på bildet. Er det noe jeg har oversett på mønsteret. Hvis ikke kan dere fortelle meg hvordan/ hvor ofte jeg skal felle av på forstykket slik at jeg får genseren slik som avbildet.

DROPS Design 08.04.2019 kl. 13:40:

Hei Anne Christine. jakken på bildet er strikket etter oppsrkiften: Det er ingen annen felling enn den mot ermhullet. Kanskje den virker smalere øverst fordi modellen er bredere over skuldrene enn rundt livet og at jakken derfor ser ut som den smalner oppover mot skulderne. Men den gjør altså ikke det. God fornøyeløse

Utente 30.04.2018 - 16:54:

Quando nelle maniche (taglia M) dice di intrecciare tutte le maglie alla fine del lavoro all'incirca quante maglie devono essere rimaste?

Elisa 24.02.2018 - 23:07:

Scusatemi ancora, quindi quando invece c'è scritto "intrecciare per lo scalfo ogni due ferri" cosa si intende? Grazie mille ancora

DROPS Design 25.02.2018 kl. 00:59:

Buongiorno Elisa. Ogni due ferri significa che intreccia un ferro sì e uno no. Buon lavoro!

Elisa 24.02.2018 - 13:07:

Scusate le molte domande, Ma quando per i pezzi davanti dice "intrecciare ad ogni ferro dal lato della spalla" cosa si intende? Come faccio a intrecciare ad ogni ferro dallo stesso lato nell'andata e nel ritorno? Non è ogni 2 ferri? Grazie

DROPS Design 24.02.2018 kl. 19:18:

Bionasera Elisa, da una parte intreccia all'inizio del ferro e quando gira il lavoro intreccerà all'inizio del ferro. Buon lavoro!

Elisa 23.02.2018 - 14:53:

È possibile lavorare le maniche in tondo (non avanti e indietro sui ferri)? Grazie

DROPS Design 23.02.2018 kl. 15:57:

Buongiorno Elisa, sì, può lavorarle in tondo. Buon lavoro!

Luisa 12.01.2018 - 23:02:

Buona sera, Quando intreccio per gli scalfi, all'inizio del ferro intreccio normalmente andando avanti come nel video, ma alla fine del ferro come devo fare? Grazie

DROPS Design 13.01.2018 kl. 06:57:

Buongiorno Luisa. Per il secondo scalfo, intreccia le maglie all'inizio del ferro successivo, quindi sul rovescio del lavoro e poi prosegue lavorando le maglie sul ferro. Buon lavoro!

Sarah 01.03.2017 - 16:32:

Ich bin jetzt soweit, dass ich oben am Rücken die Abnahmen für Schulter und Halsausschnitt stricken soll. Ich bin verwundert, dass ich nur am anfang 6 Maschen abketten soll dann 14 Maschen stricke, 16 abkette und den Rest normal stricke. Müsste ich nicht am Ende noch mal 6 Maschen an der Schulter abnehmen damit es symmetrisch wird?

DROPS Design 01.03.2017 kl. 17:26:

Liebe Sarah, am Ende der nächste Hin-Reihe sollen Sie 6 M (Schulter) abketten, dann 14 M stricken (Schulter), 16 M abketten (= Halsausschnitt), dann bis zur Ende der Reihe stricken. Am Anfang nächster Reihe (= Rückreihe), sollen Sie dann die ersten 6 M für Schulter abketten = 14 M bleiben wie beim 1. Schulter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Karine 07.12.2016 - 10:51:

Bonjour, J'aurais voulu faire ce modèle, hors la laine Drops Vivaldi est épuisée. Puis la remplacée par Drops kid-silk rouge ? Si oui combien de pelotes 3 ou 4 ? Par avance merci pour vos conseils. Cordialement

DROPS Design 07.12.2016 kl. 11:54:

Bonjour Karine, vous pouvez effectivement remplacer Vivaldi par 2 fils Kid-Silk ou bien 1 fil Brushed Alpaca Silk. Retrouvez ici comment calculer le métrage nécessaire. Bon tricot!

Martine 22.02.2015 - 14:32:

Hei, jeg har strikket denne en gang tidligere i sort med både Alpaca- og Vivaldi-garn, nå ønsker jeg å strikke den på nytt i marineblått, men jeg finner ingen gode alternativer til Vivaldi-garnet i marineblått. Vil denne boleroen bli god og varm, men samtidig litt pyntet om jeg kun bruker Alpaca-garnet? Kan alternativet da være og bruke Glitter-tråd i stedet? Takk for svar.

DROPS Design 05.03.2015 kl. 14:49:

Hej Martine. Og Kid Silk kan du ikke bruge sammen? Du kan altid strikke en pröve med Alpaca + Glitter og se om du kan lide strukturen med den rette strikkefasthed. God fornöjelse.

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