DROPS / 134 / 17

Mist by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket in stockinette st with cables and round yoke in ”Andes” or “Eskimo”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no EE-367
Yarn group E
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 76-84-94-102-116-124 cm / 30"-33"-37"-40"-45 3/4"-48 3/4"
Full length: 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''

Materials: DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
Color no 8465, medium gray: 500-600-600-700-700-800 g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 10 mm / US 15 - or size needed to get 9 sts x 12 rows in stockinette st with Andes = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS METAL BUTTON #542: 7 pcs in all sizes.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 7.85 $ /100g
DROPS Andes uni colour DROPS Andes uni colour 7.85 $ /100g
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DROPS Andes mix DROPS Andes mix 8.25 $ /100g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

DECREASE TIP 1:
All dec are done from RS.
Dec as follows before 4 sts in the side: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, K tog the next 2 sts.
Dec as follows after 4 sts in the side: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

DECREASE TIP 2:
Dec 1 st on each side of marker as follows:
Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, (marker), K tog the next 2 sts.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of YO instead of front) to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 (the diagram shows the pattern from RS)
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 78-86-94-102-114-122 sts (includes 3 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 10 mm / US 15 with Andes. Work 1st row (= from RS) as follows: 3 band sts in garter st - See explanation above - work diagram M.1 (= 7 sts), * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 10 sts remain on needle, work diagram M.1 and finish with 3 band sts in garter st. NOTE: Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements.
Work like this for 4 rows, work next row (= RS) as follows: 3 band sts, work diagram M.1, work in stockinette st until 10 sts remain on needle, work diagram M.1, finish with 3 band sts. Continue in stockinette st with diagram M.1 and 3 band sts in each side. Insert 4 markers in the piece as follows: Work 19-21-23-25-28-30 sts, 1 marker, work 4 sts, 1 marker, work 32-36-40-44-50-54 sts, 1 marker, work 4 sts, 1 marker, work remaining sts (= 4 sts between each marker in each side). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' from cast on edge, dec 1 st on each side of 4 sts in each side - see decrease tip 1 above. Repeat dec when piece measures 20 cm / 8'' = 70-78-86-94-106-114 sts.
Continue in stockinette st with diagram M.1 and 3 band sts in each side.
When piece measures 31-32-32-33-33-34 cm / 12 1/4"-12½"-12½"-13"-13"-13 3/8", inc 1 st on each side of 4 sts in the sides - Read increase tip above = 74-82-90-98-110-118 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm / 16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18''-18½''. Work next row from WS as follows: Work 18-20-22-24-27-29 sts, bind off the next 4 sts, work 30-34-38-42-48-52 sts, bind off the next 4 sts and work the last 18-20-22-24-27-29 sts. Put piece aside = 66-74-82-90-102-110 sts remain on needle.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 22-22-22-26-26-26 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 10 mm / US 15. Work 1st row (= RS) in rib as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this until rib measures approx. 4 cm / 1½''. Now continue in stockinette st with 1 edge st in each side - At the same time on 1st row from RS, adjust no of sts to 22-23-23-25-27-27.
When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st in each side inside 1 edge st. Repeat inc every 6-6-5-5-5-4 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2"-2"-2"-1½" a total of 6-6-7-7-7-8 times = 34-35-37-39-41-43 sts.
When piece measures approx. 43-42-42-41-40-40 cm / 17"-16½"-16½"-16 1/8"-15 3/4"-15 3/4" (NOTE! Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulder width) bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows = 28-29-31-33-35-37 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeves tog inside 1 edge st.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 122-132-144-156-172-184 sts. Insert 1 marker after 19-17-16-18-18-20 sts, then insert another 7-7-7-8-8-8 markers with 12-14-16-15-17-18 sts between each = 19-17-16-18-18-20 sts remain after last marker (= 8-8-8-9-9-9 markers). Now measure the piece from here. Continue in stockinette st with diagram M.1 and 3 band sts in each side as before. When piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'', dec 1 st on each side of every marker (= 16-16-16-18-18-18 sts dec) - Read decrease tip 2. Repeat dec every 4½-5-5-5½-4½-4½ cm / 1 3/4"-2"-2"-2 1/4"-1 3/4"-1 3/4" a total of 4-4-4-4-5-5 times = 58-68-80-84-82-94 sts.
Continue to work until piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm / 7''-7½''-8''-8¼''-8 ¾''-9''. NOTE: Adjust so that last row is the 4th row in diagram M.1.
Continue to work an elevation in the neck with short rows as follows:
1st row (= RS): 3 band sts, work 1st row in diagram M.1, work in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-18-30-30-28-36 sts evenly (do not dec over diagram M.1 and band sts), work 1st row in diagram M.1 and finish with 3 band sts = 46-50-50-54-54-58 sts, turn piece.
2nd row (= WS): 3 band sts, work 2nd row in diagram M.1, work in P sts - but turn piece when 10 sts remain on needle.
3rd row: Tighten the yarn and K from RS until 10 sts remain in the other side. Turn piece and tighten yarn .
4th row: P 1 row from WS until 10 sts remain towards mid front, work 2nd row in diagram M.1 over the next 7 sts and finish with 3 band sts.
Work next row (= from RS) as follows: 3 band sts, diagram M.1, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 10 sts remain, work diagram M.1 and finish with 3 band sts. Continue like this until rib measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'', then loosely bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.
Sew 7 buttons evenly distributed on left front band, use the holes between sts on right front band as button holes.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.05.2013
New yarn amount:
Materials: DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
Color no 8465, medium gray: 500-600-600-700-700-800 g

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2, psso the 2 K sts
= st that does not count on this row

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 134-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (68)

Claudia 05.02.2020 - 13:53:

Salve, ho realizzato questo modello con il filato andes, secondo le vostre indicazioni e nella mia taglia. finito il lavoro era bellissimo e vestiva molto bene, dopo averlo lavato a mano in acqua fredda e asciugato steso su una superficie piana, il cardigan ha perso la sua forma e si è allungato tantissimo, come faccio a fargli riprendere la sua forma? grazie mille

Claudia 29.01.2020 - 08:30:

Buongiorno, avrei una domanda, è possibile lavorare le maniche in tondo. sto realizzando questo modello e vorrei evitare le cuciture sotto le maniche. Se sì, procedo con avviare lo stesso numero di maglie della taglia scelta e le lavoro in tondo? Grazie mille!

DROPS Design 29.01.2020 kl. 17:07:

Buongiorno Claudia. Può lavorare le maniche in tondo, avviando 2 maglie in meno (sono le maglie vivagno che servono per la cucitura). Il numero delle maglie quando lavora a coste deve essere divisibile per 4. Buon lavoro!

Kateřina Lofítková 02.12.2019 - 09:20:

Dobrý den, opravdu je k velikosti "S" potřeba jen 400 g příze? Zdá se mi to málo a cena, za kolik lze model pořídit počítá s vyšší gramáží. Děkuji

DROPS Design 02.12.2019 kl. 17:52:

Dobry den Katerina! K velikosti "S" potřeba jen 500 g příze. Happy knitting!

Maria 25.09.2019 - 18:58:

Dzień dobry! Czy rękawy zszywa się przed dołączeniem ich do robótki czy po, kiedy sweter jest już gotowy?

DROPS Design 25.09.2019 kl. 20:27:

Witaj Mario! Rękawy zszywamy przed dołączeniem ich do reszty robótki. Miłej pracy!

CARMEN SÁNCHEZ 17.09.2019 - 11:46:

Me podrían mandar este patrón para dos agujas?Gracias

DROPS Design 18.09.2019 kl. 20:26:

Hola Carmen,. No enviamos patrones personalizados.

CARMEN SÁNCHEZ 17.09.2019 - 11:45:

Buenos días,\r\nNo sé si se usa mayoritariamente las agujas circulares, en España apenas se usa, de hecho no conozco a nadie.\r\nHaría más modelos pero por desgracia todos los patrones son para agujas circulares, me pregunto si no podrían hacer alguno con las agujas de toda la vida. Algunos se pueden adaptar más o menos, pero por ejemplo este modelo, que me gustaría realizar, no puedo convertirlo para hacerlo a dos agujas.

DROPS Design 18.09.2019 kl. 20:24:

Hola Carmen. La aguja circular ( que es cada vez más popular entre tejedoras) permite trabajar con un mayor número de puntos y de este modo podemos trabajar las prendas sin costuras, con el canesú redondo etc. Los puntos se pueden trabajar de la misma manera (por el método inglés) que con las agujas rectas si no sabes el método continental, que es más cómodo para la aguja circular. Sin embargo, hay varios modelos que son imposibles de adaptar a agujas rectas. Este es uno de ellos.

Bernie35 10.05.2019 - 17:10:

Bonjour, je viens de commencer ce modèle Vous expliquez d'utiliser les trous de la bordure comme boutonnières, soit les trous au niveau des jetés sur la torsade, donc à 7 points du bord ? cela représente environ 7.5 cm, ça me paraît beaucoup. Or la photo montre boutons et boutonnières sur la bordure en point mousse. Est-ce que j'ai raté quelque chose ?

DROPS Design 13.05.2019 kl. 08:33:

Bonjour Bernie35, les boutons vont se boutonner entre les mailles de la bordure du devant = les 3 m point mousse cf 2ème photo - les mailles sont suffisamment souples pour les attacher et les boutons tiendront ainsi très bien. Bon tricot!

Birgit Toelle 23.04.2019 - 15:19:

Vielen Dank hatte es auch schon begriffen. Wohl ein kleiner Denkfehler bei mir😉

Birgit Tölle 23.04.2019 - 06:14:

Die 4 Markierungen: 19Maschen zählen ab der 11. Masche? Und wenn ich in einer Reihe nach 10 cm auf beiden Seiten der 4 Seitenmaschen je 1 Masche abnehme dann sind das ja schon 70 M. Wenn ich das nach 20 cm wiederhole habe ich ja nur noch 62 M. Das verstehe ich nicht . Und wieso „Seiten,aschen“?

DROPS Design 23.04.2019 kl. 14:53:

Liebe Frau Tölle, so sollen Sie die Markierer haben: 19 M, 1 Markierer, 4 M, 1 Markierer, 32 M, 1 Markierer, 4 M, 1 Markierer, 19 M = 19+4+32+4+19= 78 M. Es wird dann nur 2 M auf beiden Seiten abgenommen: 1 M vor dem ersten und 3. Markierer + 1 M nach dem 2. und 4. Markierer. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Guusje 16.01.2019 - 20:53:

Hallo, ik wil dit prachtige patroon graag omrekenen naar mijn steekverhouding. Kunt u vertellen hoeveel centimeter het achterpand en de voorpanden bij elkaar zijn voor maat xl? Dan kan ik uitrekenen hoeveel steken ik moet opzetten. Alvast bedankt!

DROPS Design 17.01.2019 kl. 09:36:

Dag Guusje,

Onderaan het patroon staat een tekening met maten, daar kun je zien wat de afmetingen in jouw maat zijn. Houd er rekening mee dat er nog een overslag op het voorpand komt vanwege de knoopsluiting.

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