DROPS / 124 / 20

Heart's Desire by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS blanket in ”Delight” and ”Alpaca” with squares in different textured patterns.

Tags: blankets, lace, square,
DROPS design: Pattern no DE-036
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Measure: approx 106 x 132 cm / 41 3/4" x 52".

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
500 g color no 02, plum/beige/heather mix
And use: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250 g color no 3800, old pink
150 g color no 0618m eco light beige
150 g color no 6736m, navy/purple mix

DROPS POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 6 mm / US 10 - or size needed to get 16 sts x 24 rows in pattern with 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
Each square: width approx 23 cm / 9'' x length 24 cm / 9½''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 97.30$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
NEW BALL OF YARN TIP:
To make the color transitions in Delight neat when starting a new ball of yarn it is important to use a ball beg with the same shade as finished the previous ball.

COLORS OF SQUARES:
A = Delight + navy/purple mix Alpaca
B = Delight + light beige Alpaca
C = Delight + old pink Alpaca
See Fig 1 for pattern and color changes.

PATTERN:
Squares worked in 4 different patterns – see below.

M.1 WORKED AS FOLLOWS:
K 5 rows on all sts (first row = RS). Work next row as follows (from WS): K3, P3, K2, P4, K2, P3, K3, P3, K2, P4, K2, P3 and K3. On next row inc 16 sts evenly as follows: * K3, K2 in each of the next 3 sts, K2, K2 in next st, K2, K2 in next st, K2, K2 in each of the next 3 sts *, repeat from *-* one more time, finish with K3 = 53 sts. Continue in M.1 with 3 garter sts each side (first row = WS). On first row after M.1 dec 16 sts evenly as follows: * K3, K2 tog, K2 tog, K2 tog, K2, K2 tog, K2, K2 tog, K2, K2 tog, K2 tog, K2 tog *, repeat from *-* one more time, finish with K3 = 37 sts. K 3 rows.

M.2, M.3 and M.4 WORKED AS FOLLOWS:
K 4 rows on all sts. Continue in M.2, M.3 or M.4 with 3 garter sts each side (first row = RS). After the pattern diagram K 4 rows on all sts.

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BLANKET:
Worked back and forth on needle in 4 lengths, sewn tog afterwards. Each length comprises 5 squares, the squares are worked in 4 different patterns and with 3 different color combinations – see pattern and colors above. See NEW BALL OF YARN TIP!

LENGTH 1:
Cast on 37 sts with 1 strand Delight + 1 strand navy/purple mix Alpaca. Work M.1, see explanation above. Change the Alpaca strand to light beige, work M.2 (see explanation above). Change the Alpaca strand to old pink, work M.3 (see explanation above). Change the Alpaca strand to navy/purple mix, work M.4 (see explanation above). Change the Alpaca strand to light beige, work M.1 (see explanation above). Slip sts on a stitch holder and put piece aside.

LENGTH 2:
Like length 1, but with pattern and color changes as shown in Fig.1 – i.e. beg with old pink Alpaca and M.2.

LENGTH 3:
Like Length 1, but with pattern and color changes as shown in Fig.1 – i.e. beg with light beige Alpaca and M.3.

LENGTH 4:
Like Length 1, but with pattern and color changes as shown in Fig.1 – i.e. beg with navy/purple mix Alpaca and M.4.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the lengths tog edge to edge with Delight and 1 st in each garter st.

FINISHING BORDER:
Work a border along each side of the blanket and sew the borders tog in corners. All borders worked in garter st back and forth on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Delight + old pink Alpaca.
SHORT SIDE, TOP:
Slip all sts from stitch holders at the top for each length on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 = 148 sts. Work garter st back and forth on needle – beg from WS - AT THE SAME TIME on Row 2 inc 1 st each side towards corner by making 1 YO on the inside of first/last st – on next row K YO into back of loop K to avoid a hole. Repeat the inc on every other row until there are 20 rows garter st, bind off LOOSELY from RS.
SHORT SIDE, BOTTOM:
Pick up (from RS) 1 st in each st from cast on row on all lengths = 148 sts. Now continue as described for short side top.
LONG SIDE:
Pick up (from RS) 1 st in every garter ridge along one of the long sides = 150 sts. K 1 row, AT THE SAME TIME inc 30 sts evenly by making 1 YO after every 5th st – on return row work K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. Now continue as described for the short sides.
Repeat along the other long side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew all corners edge to edge with 1 st in each garter st.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 03.05.2013
LONG SIDE:
Pick up (from RS) 1 st in every garter ridge along one of the long sides = 150 sts.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS.
= P from RS, K from WS.
= slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= K2 tog, 1 YO
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
= 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso, 1 YO


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 124-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (131)

Celine 25.09.2020 - 17:41:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas bien M1. Doit -on alterner les rangs 16 augmentation puis 16 diminutions sur l’endroit et l’envers ? Si oui combien de fois ? Le carré doit mesurer combien en hauteur ? Merci

DROPS Design 28.09.2020 kl. 08:00:

Bonjour Celine, Vous tricotez d'abord 5 rangs puis 1 rang sur l'endroit en côtes, 1 rang sur l'envers en augmentant 16 m, tricotez maintenant le diagramme M.1 avec 3 m point mousse de chaque côté, tricotez ensuite 1 rang de diminutions et 3 rangs endroit. Bon tricot!

Jeanett 31.08.2020 - 11:35:

Hvad gør man på bagsiden med tråde fra mønster? eks.i M2 mønstret er der langt fra højre side af hjertet til venstre side - har man bare tråden 'hængende' på bagsiden?

DROPS Design 02.09.2020 kl. 14:56:

Hej Jeanett, du strikker alle masker og pinde i mønsteret ifølge diagrammet, så du vil ikke få nogle løse tråde. God fornøjelse!

Wigdis Gros 27.07.2020 - 14:02:

Hei. Jeg har strikket ca 25 stk av dette pleddet, i alle variasjoner farger, og gitt det til venner og kjente. Hyggelig arbeide og glade mottakere.

Herdis Lindbom 04.07.2020 - 12:14:

Jeg ville bestille garn til dette teppet på nettbutikken deres. Men når det gjelder blå mix garnet, så må det være oppgitt feil garnnummer i oppskrifta. På nettbutikken kommer det nemlig opp en burgunderfarge istedet. Kan jeg få hjelp til å bestille korrekt? Ønsker fargetonene som er avbildet.

DROPS Design 06.07.2020 kl. 12:01:

Hei Herdis. Her har fargen 6736m burgunder hatt et navneskifte. Tidligere het fargen 6736m blå mix, men burgunder stemmer bedre med hvilken farge det er. Det er iallefall farge nr 6736m som er brukt i teppet og som du ser avbildet. mvh DROPS design

Ines Heistermann 11.05.2020 - 14:32:

Schema M1 besteht aus 47 Maschen..der Anfang der beschrieben wird aus 37 Maschen..was stimmt nun?

DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 16:41:

Liebe Frau Heistermann, stricken Sie M.1 wie beschrieben unter M.1 wie folgt: - es wird Maschen zugenommen (= 53 M) und wieder abgenommen (= 37 M). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Inger Johanne Aubert 09.05.2020 - 21:00:

Jeg har strikket dette pleddet, veldig fornøyd. Nå vil jeg strikke ett til, men i en annen fargekombinasjon . Har dere forslag om fargesammensetning . Tenker turkis. Delight 09 pluss hvilke tre andre farger?

DROPS Design 11.05.2020 kl. 12:35:

Hei Inger. Så hyggelig å høre at du var fornøyd med det første teppet, og ja det er meget flott. Ang. farger er det veldig personlig. Jeg vil anbefale deg å se på andre tepper vi har, bruk vår søkemotor, skriv teppe + enter, så kan du velge farge. Da får du div tepper i f.eks turkis. God Fornøyelse!

Britt Yman 29.01.2020 - 13:48:

Hej. I diagramförklaringen är strecket för am lutat åt ett håll medan det lutar åt andra hållet i diagrammen. Varför?

DROPS Design 30.01.2020 kl. 13:47:

Hej. Det är bara att fel symbol har kommit in i den förklaringen, men vi menar samma sak även om strecket lutar åt andra hållet. Lycka till!

Claire 17.01.2020 - 09:12:

Bonjour. Je souhaite faire ce modèle mais avec un seul fil. Lequel puis-je utiliser et en quelle quantité ? Merci.

DROPS Design 17.01.2020 kl. 09:15:

Bonjour Claire, vous pouvez remplacer les 2 fils du groupe A tricotés ensemble (Delight et Alpaca) par 1 fil du groupe C - Vous trouverez plus d'infos sur les alternatives ici. Bon tricot!

Nancy 24.12.2019 - 03:39:

Bonjour, je rencontre un problème au rang 43, à la fin du rang j'ai quelque maille de trop. Merci

DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 10:43:

Bonjour Nancy, il est difficile de pouvoir vous dire à quel niveau vient l'erreur, essayez de bien vérifier vos mailles par rapport au diagramme que vous tricotez (s'il s'agit de M.2 ou M.4, vérifiez bien que vous avez bien augmenté 1 m (= 1 jeté) pour chaque diminution pour que le nombre de maille reste toujours le même. Bon tricot!

Inga Beck 27.10.2019 - 13:44:

Það vantar inn í ísl leiðbeiningar. "Prjónið M2 samkvæmt leiðbeiningum að ofan" en það eru engar. Sbr við enska þar sem leiðb fyrir M2-M4

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