DROPS Baby / 19 / 8

Sweet Buttercup by DROPS Design

Set of crochet jacket with raglan, and hat with fan pattern for baby and children in DROPS BabyMerino

DROPS design: Pattern no BM-010-by-BM-011-by
---------------------------------------------------------
JACKET:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 46-52-58 (64-70) cm / 18"-20½"-22 3/4" (25 1/4"-27½")
Full length: 26-28-31 (33-36) cm / 10 1/4"-11"-12 1/4" (13"-14 1/4")

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
150-150-150 (150-200) g color no 02, off-white

DROPS HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 20 dc x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTON no 521: 5-5-5 (6-6) pcs.
---------------------------------------------------------
HAT:
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2/4) years
Head circumference:
40/42 - 44/46 - 46/48 (48/52) cm / 16"-17 3/4"-18½" (20")

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes color no 02, off-white

DROPS HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 1 fan = width 3 cm / 1 1/8''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:

CROCHET INFO (applies to yoke and sleeves):
Replace first dc on row with ch 3 and finish each row with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.

INCREASING TIP-1 (applies to raglan):
Inc for raglan on each side of all 4 markers.
INC 4 DC BY EACH MARKER AS FOLLOWS:
Beg inc in 3rd dc before marker and work 2 dc in this dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc (marker sits between these 2 dc), 2 dc in next dc and 2 dc in next dc (= 16 dc inc on row).
INC 2 DC BY EACH MARKER AS FOLLOWS:
Beg inc in 2nd dc before marker and work 2 dc in this dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc (marker sits between these 2 dc), 2 dc in next dc (= 8 dc inc on row).

INCREASING TIP-2:
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in 1 dc.

DECREASING TIP (applies to sleeve):
Dec 1 dc at beg of row by replacing 1 dc with 1 sl st. Dec 1 dc at the end of row by turning piece when 1 dc remain on row and work return row as before with 1 dc in each dc.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = replace 3rd dc from mid front with ch 1. On next row crochet 1 dc in this ch. Make buttonholes when piece approx measures:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 2, 7, 12, 17 og 22 cm/3/4",2 3/4",4 3/4",6 3/4" and 8 3/4".
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 2, 8, 13, 19 og 24 cm/3/4",3 1/8",5 1/8",7½" and 9½".
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 2, 8, 14, 20 og 26 cm/3/4",3 1/8",5½",8" and 10 1/4".
SIZE 2 YEARS: 2, 7, 12, 17, 22 og 27 cm/3/4",2 3/4",4 3/4",6 3/4",8 3/4" and 10 5/8"
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 2, 8, 13, 19, 24 og 30 cm/3/4",3 1/8",5 1/8",7½",9½" and 11 3/4".
----------------------------------------------------------

JACKET:
Crochet in dc from shoulders towards bottom edge. Beg with yoke, then crochet sleeves from the top towards sleeve edges, and then body piece, back and forth from mid front in fan patterns.

YOKE:
Ch 66-71-71 (76-76) LOOSE with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and Baby Merino.
ROW 1 (= WS): Crochet 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, *skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of following 3 ch*, repeat *-* until 2-3-3 (4-4) ch remains, skip 1 ch and then 1 dc in each of 1-2-2 (3-3) last ch = 48-52-52 (56-56) dc on row (includes 4 dc each side towards mid front for front band), turn piece.
Now insert 4 markers in piece as follows (from RS):
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: marker A between 11th and 12 dc, marker B between 17th and 18th dc, marker C between 31st and 32nd dc, and marker D between 37th and 38th dc.
SIZE 6/9 + 12/18 MONTHS: marker A between 12th and 13th dc, marker B between 18th and 19th dc, marker C between 34th and 35th dc, and marker D between 40th and 41st dc.
SIZE 2 + 3/4 YEARS: marker A between 13th and 14th dc, marker B between 19th and 20th dc, marker C between 37th and 38th dc, and marker D between 43rd and 44th dc.
Let the markers follow the piece as you go along.
Now continue as follows - See CROCHET INFO AND REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
Crochet 1 dc in each dc, AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 4 dc for raglan by each marker – See INCREASING TIP-1! Repeat the inc on every row a total of 4-5-7 (8-10) times – remember BUTTONHOLES on right front band. Now inc 2 dc by each marker on every row a total of 6-6-5 (5-4) times = 160-180-204 (224-248) dc on row. There are now 11-12-13 (14-15) rows on piece and piece measures approx 11-12-13 (14-15) cm / 4 3/8''-4¾''-5 1/8'' (5½''-6'') from shoulder (piece will measure approx 9-10-11 (12-13) cm / 3½"-4"-4 3/8" (4 3/4"-5 1/8") from neckline). Cut the thread.

SLEEVE:
Now measure piece from here! Crochet 1 dc in each dc back and forth on the 34-38-44 (48-54) dc between marker A and B. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm / 1 1/8'' dec 1 dc each side – See DECREASING TIP. Repeat the dec each side on every 3-4-2 (2-2) cm / 1 1/8"-1½"-3/4" (3/4"-3/4") a total of 3-3-6 (7-10) times = 28-32-32 (34-34) dc. Continue with 1 dc in each dc.
When sleeve measures 12-14-15 (20-24) cm / 4 3/4"-5½"-6" (8"-9½") crochet cuff with Fan Pattern as follows:
ROW 1: * ch 2, skip approx 1 to 3 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* so that you end up with 11-11-11 (13-13) ch-loops.
ROW 2: Crochet sl sts to the middle of first ch-loop, ch 3, * 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc in next ch-loop, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-*, turn piece.
ROW 3: ch 3, * 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc in the middle of the dc-group (i.e. in ch-loop at the top of fan), 1 dc in dc from previous row *, repeat from *-*, turn piece.
Repeat row 3 one more time, cut the thread and crochet the other sleeve in the same way between marker C and D.

BODY PIECE:
Continue in Fan Pattern back and forth from mid front as follows:
ROW 1: crochet 1 dc in each of the 25-28-31 (34-37) dc on left front piece to marker A, AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-4-5 (5-6) dc evenly (do not inc on front band) – See INCREASING TIP-2 = 29-32-36 (39-43) dc, crochet 1 dc in each of the 42-48-54 (60-66) dc on back piece from marker B to marker C, AT THE SAME TIME inc 8-8-10 (10-12) dc evenly = 50-56-64 (70-78) dc and crochet 1 dc in each of the 25-28-31 (34-37) dc on right front piece from marker D, AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-4-5 (5-6) dc evenly = 29-32-36 (39-43) dc = 108-120-136 (148-164) dc in total on row, turn piece.

ROW 2: ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc (= front band), ch 3, skip 2 dc, * 1 sc in next dc, ch 3, skip approx 2 dc (skip 3 dc occasionally) *, repeat from *-* so that you end up with 30-34-38 (42-46) ch-loops and 6 or 7 dc remain on row, ch 3 and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 4 dc (= front band). There are now 31-35-39 (43-47) ch-loops with 4 dc each side for front band, turn piece.

ROW 3: ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, skip first ch-loop, * 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc in next ch-loop, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* until 2 ch-loops remain, crochet 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc in next ch-loop and finish with 1 dc in each of the 4 dc on front band = 15-17-19 (21-23) fans with 4 dc each side towards mid front for front bands, turn piece.

ROW 4: ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 dc, * 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc in the middle of the next dc-group (i.e. in ch-loop at the top of fan), 1 dc in dc from previous row *, repeat from *-* until 1 dc-group remain, 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc in the middle of this dc-group and finish with 1 dc in each of the 4 dc on front band, turn piece.
Repeat row 4 until piece measures approx 21-23-24 (26-28) cm / 8 1/4"-9"-9½" (10 1/4"-11").

CROCHET NEXT ROW AS FOLLOWS:
ch 4, 1 tr in each of the next 3 dc, * 4 tr + ch 2 + 4 tr in the middle of next dc-group, 1 tr in dc from previous row *, repeat from *-* until 1 dc-group remain, 4 tr + ch 2 + 4 tr in the middle of this dc-group and finish with 1 tr in each of the 4 dc on front band, turn piece.
Repeat this row until piece measures approx 26-28-31 (33-36) cm / 10 1/4"-11"-12 1/4" (13"-14 1/4") from shoulder. Cut and fasten threads.

CROCHET BORDER:
Crochet a border with hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and Baby Merino round opening of jacket as follows – beg at bottom of right front piece, round neckline on front and back pieces, and down along left front piece: 1 sc in first st, * ch 3, skip approx 1 cm / 3/8'', 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-*.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams and cuffs tog, edge to edge with neat sts. Sew on buttons.

---------------------------------------------------------

HAT:

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc on row with ch 1 and finish each round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
---------------------------------------------------------

Hat crochet from the top down.

With hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 and Baby Merino ch 4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: 6 sc in ring – See CROCHET INFO.
ROUND 2-4: 1 sc in each sc = 6 sc.
ROUND 5: 2 sc in each sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 6: 2 sc in each sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 7: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 36 sc.
ROUND 8: * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 48 sc.
ROUND 9: * 1 sc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 60 sc.
ROUND 10: ch 3, * skip 2 sc (skip 1 sc instead at regular intervals a total of 6-12-18 (24) times), 1 sc in next sc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* so that you end up with 22-24-26 (28) ch-loops, finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
ROUND 11: Crochet sl sts to the middle of the first ch-loop, ch 1, * 2 dc + ch 1 + 2 dc in next ch-loop, 1 sc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 dc + ch 1 + 2 dc in the last ch-loop and 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 11-12-13 (14) fans.
ROUND 12-15: ch 3, * 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc in the middle of next dc-group (i.e. in ch at the top of fan), 1 dc in sc/dc from previous round *, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc in the middle of the last dc-group and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 16: ch 3, * 3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc in the middle of next dc-group, 1 dc in dc from previous round *, repeat from *-* and finish with 3 dc + ch 2 + 3 dc in the middle of the last dc-group and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 17: ch 3, * 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc in the middle of next dc-group, 1 dc in dc from previous round *, repeat from *-* and finish with 4 dc + ch 2 + 4 dc in the middle of the last dc-group and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of previous round.
Repeat ROUND 17 until hat measures approx 10-11-12 (13) cm / 4"-4 3/8"-4 3/4" (5 1/8") from the top of head.
CROCHET NEXT ROUND AS FOLLOWS:
ch 4, * 4 tr + ch 2 + 4 tr in the middle of next dc-group, 1 tr in dc from previous round *, repeat from *-* and finish with 4 tr + ch 2 + 4 tr in the middle of the last dc-group and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round.
Repeat this round until hat measures approx 14-15-16 (18) cm / 5½"-6"-6 1/4" (7") from the top of head. Cut and fasten thread.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 10.08.2010
Make buttonholes when piece approx measures:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 2, 7, 12, 17 og 22 cm/3/4",2 3/4",4 3/4",6 3/4" and 8 3/4".
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 2, 8, 13, 19 og 24 cm/3/4",3 1/8",5 1/8",7½" and 9½".
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 2, 8, 14, 20 og 26 cm/3/4",3 1/8",5½",8" and 10 1/4".
SIZE 2 YEARS: 2, 7, 12, 17, 22 og 27 cm/3/4",2 3/4",4 3/4",6 3/4",8 3/4" and 10 5/8"
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 2, 8, 13, 19, 24 og 30 cm/3/4",3 1/8",5 1/8",7½",9½" and 11 3/4".
Updated online: 12.08.2010
Hat: ...ROUND 10: ch 3, * skip 2 sc (skip 1 sc instead of 2 sc at regular intervals a total of 6-12-18 (24) times), 1 sc in next sc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* so that you end up with 22-24-26 (28) ch-loops, finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 19-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (33)

Fernanda 10.11.2019 - 12:27:

Buongiorno Non ho capito Bisogna lavorare le maniche a parte e poi unire e lavorare insieme il dritto e il rovescio non capisco bene grazie

DROPS Design 10.11.2019 kl. 17:43:

Buonasera Fernanda, deve lavorare lo sprone, poi passare a lavorare una manica alla volta e poi lavorare il davanti e il dietro. Buon lavoro!

Fernanda 08.11.2019 - 20:13:

I segna punti portandoli su ad ogni giro vanno rimessi alla stessa altezza Grazie

DROPS Design 09.11.2019 kl. 11:26:

Buongiorno Fernanda, i segnapunti vanno semplicemente spostati durante la lavorazione, sono sempre nello stesso punto. Buon lavoro!

JMFS 22.10.2019 - 02:08:

I'm done with the yoke and the sleeves! Now to begin the body. I think I understand it - we're going to crochet from the right front to the left front, crocheting the armholes closed, and then seam the sleeves after. Is that correct? Or is the left front to the right front? I confuse myself by thinking about it. :D This is the 2nd raglan pattern I've done and it's different than the first, but equally fun!

DROPS Design 22.10.2019 kl. 10:55:

Dear JMFS, first row on body will be worked from RS over the left front piece, over stitches on back piece and over stitches on right front piece = stitches between markers as described (increasing evenly). From WS you will then work from the right front piece towards the left front piece. Working the first row will "close" the armholes, then when body is finished you will sew the sleeve and close the hole under armhole. Happy crocheting!

Susanne Mikkelsen 21.09.2019 - 17:38:

Min datter på 15 år (str xs/s) er også mega vild med denne cardigan, er det muligt at scalere den op, så man kunne hækle den i hendes str. ?

DROPS Design 25.09.2019 kl. 08:19:

Hej Susanne, jeg er sikker på at du finder den her: jakker - damer - hæklet God fornøjelse!

Anna 06.08.2019 - 09:12:

Buon giorno Non ho capito dove mettere i segni x gli aumenti sto facendo la prima misura grazie

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 09:17:

Buongiorno Anna. Per la taglia 1/3 mesi deve inserire un segno tra la 11a e la 12a maglia alta, un segno tra la 17a e la 18a m.a (contate sempre dall’inizio della riga), un segno tra la 31a e la 32a m.a, e l’ultimo segno tra la 37a e la 38a m.a. Buon lavoro!

Ellen 22.07.2019 - 14:01:

Ik ben het babyvestje aan het haken maar ik snap echt niks van het hele patroon. Kunnen jullie het misschien beter uitleggen dat ik het wel snapt. Het is ook voor het eerst dat ik een kledingstuk maakt. Ik hoor het graag van jullie. Ik vind het zo'n leuk vestje. Maar zo gaat het niet lukken en ik ga het voor een baby van 6 tot 9 maand haken. Met vriendelijke groeten van Ellen Burggraaf

DROPS Design 23.07.2019 kl. 12:21:

Dag Ellen,

We doen ons best om de patronen zo duidelijk mogelijk te beschrijven. Als je een specifieke vraag hebt over waar je tegenaan loopt in het patroon dan kunnen we je beter helpen.

Lees het patroon eerst even goed door, maak een proeflapje en pas evt. de naalddikte aan zodat de stekenverhouding klopt, Bekijk evt. de video's die je aan de linkerkant van het patroon vindt en kijk evt. ook bij de veelgestelde vragen die in de tab naast de opmerkingen staan. Of kijk bij tips en hulp op de site.

Louise 12.11.2018 - 23:25:

Hej. Jeg er ved at lave viftemønstret nederst på ærmet i størrelse 1-3 m., men jeg kan ikke forstå forklaringen. Kan I prøve at forklare række 2 og 3 lidt mere præcist? Hilsen Louise

DROPS Design 16.11.2018 kl. 15:30:

Hej Louise, har du kigget på vores video som viser hvordan man hækler viftemønster? Jeg er sikker på at du vil forstå teknikken når du har set den, og så er det bare at følge forklaringen på række 2 og 3 - God fornøjelse!

How to crochet a simple fan pattern from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Stephanie 21.10.2018 - 20:22:

Hej, Jeg har brugt dette mønster til dåbskjole istedet for en cardigan, men dette har jo så resulteret i at kjolen går ret op og ned - ved I hvordan jeg kan lave udtagninger i i mønsteret så jeg får noget bredde og fylde istedet for? Ved selvfølgelig godt at jeg skal pille det hele (viftemønsteret) op, for at lave udtagningerne.. Men hvordan laver man dem? Jeg forstår det virkelig ikke... Håber I kan hjælpe..

DROPS Design 23.10.2018 kl. 16:12:

Hej Stephanie, du skulle evt kunne prøve at hækle hver 2. st gruppe med 5 dbl-st (istedet for 4 dbl-st) men du er da nok nødt til at prøve dig lidt frem. Og så efter nogle cm kan du hækle de andre dbl-st med 5 i gruppen istedet for 4. God fornøjelse!

Emma 01.10.2018 - 22:54:

Hej, vad menas med att det ska minskas med x antal cm på ärmen? Går det att förklaras på annat vis?

DROPS Design 02.10.2018 kl. 08:19:

Hei Emma. Det betyr at du gjør den første fellingen når arbeidet måler 3 cm (det felles 1 stav i hver side). Du skal felle på samme måte hver 3.-4.-2. (2.-2.) cm målt fra forrige felling) til du har felt totalt 3-3-6 (7-10) ganger - inkludert den første fellingen. God fornøyesle.

Ingrid 27.09.2018 - 10:37:

Hallo, irgendwie muss ich einen Gedankenfehler haben, ich komme bei der Passe nach der Aufnahme nicht auf die angegebene Maschenzahl, ich habe viel weniger. Wenn ich oben die Anleitung durchlese und die Maschen addiere komme ich auch nicht auf die angebenen 160 Stäbchen, wo könnte mein Fehler liegen? vielen dank schon mal .

DROPS Design 27.09.2018 kl. 15:58:

Liebe Ingrid, in der 1. Größe haben Sie 48 M, dann werden (4 Stb x 4 Markierungen x 4 Mal insgesamt = 64 Zunahmen) und (2 Stb x 4 Markierungen x 6 Mal insgesamt = 48 Zunahmen): 48 + 64 +48= 160 Stb. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 19-8

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

From the #dropsfan gallery

Sweet Buttercup

JMFS, United States

Sweet Buttercup

Cupcake and Tea, Sweden