DROPS / 119 / 1

Fly Away by DROPS Design

Long DROPS jacket with short sleeves knitted from side to side in Alpaca and Vivaldi or Brushed Alpaca Silk. Size S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no Z-490
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
NOTE: Because of the knitting direction and the elasticity of the yarn the jacket will be approx 3-5 cm / 1"-2" longer than measurements in chart when worn.

Materials: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
color no 2917, turquoise: 250-300-300-350-400-400 g
And use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
color no 22, light turquoise: 200-200-200-250-250-300 g
Or: DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200-200-200-250-250-300 g colour no 15, light sea green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 6 mm/US 10 – or size needed to get 15 sts x 20 rows in stockinette st with 1 thread of each quality = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 5 mm/US 8 – for garter st.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
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DROPS Vivaldi DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
Discontinued
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in order to fit in all sts. Beg mid front on left front piece and knit towards the side, bind off for armhole and continue to mid back and bind off. Work right front piece in the same way but mirrored and sew tog the 2 pieces mid back. Work the sleeves separately and set in.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
LOOSELY cast on 113-117-121-126-130-135 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Alpaca and Vivaldi or Brushed Alpaca SIlk (= 2 threads). Work 4 rows GARTER ST - see above (first row = RS). Change to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 and continue in stockinette st with 2 garter sts each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures approx 46-51-56-63-70-80 cm / 18"-20"-22"-24 3/4"-27½"-31½" - make sure that next row is from RS – slip 44-45-46-51-52-54 sts on left side of piece (as seen from RS) on a stitch holder.
Work 4-4-4-8-8-8 rows stockinette st with 2 garter sts each side (= 2-2-2-4-4-4 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-1½"-1½"-1½") on the remaining 69-72-75-75-78-81 sts on needle. Now slip these sts on a stitch holder.
Slip the 44-45-46-51-52-54 sts from the first stitch holder back on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 and work armhole as follows from RS:
Size S + M + L: bind off the first 29-30-31 sts at beg of row, work remaining 15 sts on needle as before. Insert a marker in the outermost st on right side of piece (as seen from RS – this marks where sleeve cap is sewn to armhole). Turn piece, work the 15 sts on needle as before and then cast on 29-30-31 sts at the end of row.
Size XL + XXL + XXXL: bind off the first 16-17-18 sts at beg of row, work remaining 35-35-36 sts on needle as before, turn piece. Work the 35-35-36 sts on needle as before, turn piece. Bind off the first 17-17-18 sts at beg of row and work remaining 18 sts as before. Insert a marker in the outermost st on right side of piece (as seen from RS – this marks where sleeve cap is sewn to armhole). Turn piece, work the 18 sts as before, cast on 17-17-18 new sts at the end of row, turn piece. Work the 35-35-36 sts on needle as before, turn piece. Work the 35-35-36 sts on needle as before and cast on 16-17-18 new sts at the end of row.
ALL SIZES: Now slip the 69-72-75-75-78-81 sts from stitch holder back on needle and continue in stockinette st with 2 garter sts each side on all 113-117-121-126-130-135 sts again. When piece measures 61-67-73-82-90-101 cm / 24"-26 3/8"-28 3/4"-32 1/4"-35½"-39 3/4" (measured on left side of piece as seen from RS, piece measures approx 62-68-74-84-92-103 cm / 24 3/8"-26 3/4"-29 1/8"-33"-36 1/4"-40½" on right side) work shortened rows to create extra width mid back as follows (beg from WS = from neckline): Work the first 30-33-36-41-45-48 sts on needle and then slip these sts on a stitch holder, work the remaining sts on needle, turn piece and work return row, * work the first 11-8-7-7-6-5 sts on needle, slip these sts on the same stitch holder and work remaining sts on needle, turn piece and work return row *, repeat from *-* a total of 7-9-11-11-13-15 times. Turn piece, work the remaining 6-12-8-8-7-12 sts. Now slip the 107-105-113-118-123-123 sts from stitch holder back on needle and work 2 rows garter st on all sts, bind off LOOSELY = mid back. Piece measures approx 62-68-74-83-91-102 cm / 24 3/8"-26 3/4"-29 1/8"-32 3/4"-35 3/4"-40" on left side of piece (as seen from RS) and 72-80-88-98-108-121 cm / 28 3/8"-31½"-34 5/8"-38½"-42½"-47½" on right side of piece – measured in the knitting direction.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work like left front piece, but mirrored, i.e. make all measurements on right side of piece - as seen from RS. When working the 4-4-4-8-8-8 rows under sleeve, adjust so that first row is worked from WS (and not RS) and slip the outermost 44-45-46-51-52-54 sts on left side of piece as seen from WS (and not RS) on a stitch holder. Work armhole as described for left front piece, but from WS (and not RS). Beg working shortened rows mid back from RS (and not WS).

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 41-43-44-47-50-53 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Alpaca and Vivaldi (= 2 threads). Work 4 rows garter st, change to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 and work stockinette st. When piece measure 5 cm/2" dec 1 st at beg of following 2 rows, repeat dec at 10 cm/4", and then dec 1 st at the beg of every row a total of 4-4-5-6-7-8 times each side.
Bind off 4 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows and then bind off remaining sts.
Sleeve measures approx 15-15-16-17-18-19 cm / 6''-6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew jacket tog mid back inside bind off rows. Set in sleeves - NOTE: Sew sleeve cap to marker on shoulder and set in sleeve each side along the armhole marked by stars in diagram (no seam mid under sleeve, i.e. leave open where the 4-4-4-8-8-8 rows were knitted).

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 17.02.2010
SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 41-43-44-47-50-53 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Alpaca and Vivaldi (= 2 threads). Work 4 rows garter st, change to circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 and work stockinette st. When piece measure 5 cm/2" dec 1 st at beg of following 2 rows, repeat dec at 10 cm/4", and then dec 1 st at the beg of every row a total of 4-4-5-6-7-8 times each side.
Bind off 4 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows and then bind off remaining sts.
Sleeve measures approx 15-15-16-17-18-19 cm / 6''-6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knitting direction
= mid front
= sew sleeve to here
= mid back

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 119-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (167)

Maryel Campos Cardoso 23.04.2019 - 20:08:

Solo comentar que me encanta mucho todo lo que veo de su página aunque no entiendo muchas cosas o no sé descifrarlas me encanta todo porque tejer 🧶 es una de las cosas que más me gusta y lo disfruto mucho

Maurisa Solomon 21.12.2018 - 02:04:

Do you have a guide for the small and medium sizes for pattern 119-1? I would appreciate knowing before I make a commitment. Thank you.

DROPS Design 21.12.2018 kl. 08:08:

Dear Mrs Solomon, you will find a measurement chart at the bottom of the pattern with all measurements for each size taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

Camilla Jansson 09.09.2017 - 21:23:

Hej. Har stickat 56cm för storlek L sedan 4 varv på drygt hälften medan nästan hälften vilat på garn. Har sedan bytt så de första som har 2cm extra i höjd sitter på garn och de som vilade sitter nu på sticka igen. Garnet befinner sig i mitten på stycket vid brytpunkten. Allt sett från rätsidan. Skall jag öppna ett nytt nystan? Alternativt klippa av och skarva på senare? Eller fortsätter jag bara med samma nystan trots 2 cm/4varv höjdskillnad????

DROPS Design 19.09.2017 kl. 16:05:

Hej Camilla, du måste klippa tråden och/eller börja på ett nytt nystan. Det nya nystanet kommer du att kunna fortsätta med när du har alla m tillbaka på stickan. Lycka till!

Marilyn 04.08.2017 - 01:11:

I cannot find the gauge for pattern 119-1. What is the gauge? Thank you

DROPS Design 04.08.2017 kl. 08:49:

Dear Marilyn, you will find gauge under tab "Materials". Happy knitting!

Debbie 13.04.2017 - 04:02:

Love this pattern but I'm confused on creating the sleeve opening. Do you need to pick up new yarn to bind off and then work the sleeve opening? Working yarn is on the far right side of the stitches on the stitch holder. Can you clarify? Thank you?

DROPS Design 13.04.2017 kl. 20:45:

Dear Debbie, first you put stitches at the end of a row (without knitting them, so you have the yarn at the turning point. From then, you knit an even number of rows , so you will have the yarn back at the turning point again. Now put the stitches you just worked with on a stitch holder and continue with the other side,with the same yarn that is (roughly) at the middle of the piece (no need to cut it, just continue), and cast of the given number of stitches. I hope this helps. Happy knitting!

Esther Kirsch 01.07.2016 - 22:15:

I want to buy your circular needles in US 8 and 10, but it does not tell me the length of the needle. To do my pattern I need 33". How do I buy this Thank you

Anna 02.07.2016 kl. 17:15:

Pattern does tell: 80 cm = 32 inches.

Esther 01.07.2016 - 04:43:

I mean Fly Away pattern # Z490

Esther 01.07.2016 - 04:40:

Hi, I wanted to do Drops pattern 119-1 Fly Away using Drops Baby Alpaca Silk. I asked you if this was ok and you answered me saying "yes" but you would have to double the yarn. Well, I did a Gauge and it did not work. So I tried 3 strands and that works. I am upset because what you told me was wrong. Now I do not want to have to order another 10 skeins . I already hv 20 skeins. This is costing me more than I anticipated. How can you help

DROPS Design 01.07.2016 kl. 17:51:

Dear Esther, you can use Baby Alpaca Silk as an alternative to Alpaca (= yarn group A), but then you have to use either Brushed Alpaca Silk instead of Vivaldi (group C) or 2 strands group A = 2 strands Baby Alpaca Silk, so that you will have to work with 3 strands Baby Alpaca Silk (= 3 strands group A) instead of 1 strand group A + 2 strands group C - read more here. Happy knitting!

Esther Kirsch 10.06.2016 - 01:25:

Thank you

Esther Kirsch 08.06.2016 - 01:59:

Thank you

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