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Cold Steel by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with round yoke sleeves and multi coloured pattern in ”Karisma”. Size S - XXXL

Keywords: bottom up, colorwork, long sleeves, nordic, round neck, round yoke, sweater

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DROPS 116-43
DROPS design: Pattern no U-577.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm / 31½''-34 5/8''-37¾''-41¾''-46½''-51''
Full length: 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm / 26¾''-27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''

Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 21, medium gray
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 01, off-white
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 44, light gray
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color no 53, charcoal gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4 mm/ US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 3.5 mm/US 4 – for rib.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 3.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3. Diagram shows the pattern from RS. The entire pattern is worked in stockinette st.

KNITTING TIP:
Should you want less pattern and a shorter yoke, finish M.3 earlier (before arrow indicating your size). Move directly to instructions for NECK. Please note the sts count might deviate slightly.

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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 230-250-270-300-330-360 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with medium gray. K 1 round and continue in rib, K2/ P3. When piece measures 7 cm / 2¾'' P 1 round, change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 46-50-54-60-66-72 sts evenly = 184-200-216-240-264-288 sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 92-100-108-120-132-144 sts (= the sides). Continue in the round in stockinette st. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'' dec 1 st each side of both markers (= 4 dec), and repeat the dec on every 11-11-11-12-12-12 cm / 4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4" a total of 4 times = 168-184-200-224-248-272 sts. When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17 1/4"-17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼'' work 1 vertical repeat of M.1 on all sts. Work next round with light gray, AT THE SAME TIME bind off 8 sts each side (= 4 sts each side of marker) for armhole = 152-168-184-208-232-256 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 60-65-65-70-70-75 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with medium gray. K 1 round and continue in rib K2/ P3. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' P 1 round, change to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-15-13-16-14-17 sts evenly = 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round. When piece measures 5 cm / 2'' inc 1 st each side of marker, and repeat on every 2.5-2.5-2-2-1.5-1.5 cm / 7/8''-7/8''-3/4''-3/4''-½''-½'' a total of 14-15-16-17-18-19 times = 76-80-84-88-92-96 sts. When sleeve measures 40-40-39-39-38-38 cm / 15 3/4"-15 3/4"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-15"-15" (less for the larger sizes because of wider shoulder) work 1 vertical repeat of M.1 on all sts. Work next round with light gray, AT THE SAME TIME bind off 4 sts each side of marker = 68-72-76-80-84-88 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where bind off for armhole = 288-312-336-368-400-432 sts. Work 1 round off-white, AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-12-12-8-16-24 sts evenly = 276-300-324-360-384-408 sts. Continue in M.2 (23-25-27-30-32-34 repeats). Continue in M.2 (23-25-27-30-32-34 repeats).
After M.2 there are 184-200-216-240-256-272 sts on needle. Continue in M.3, finish by arrow for your size, - see KNITTING TIP AT THE SAME TIME by each star dec evenly on row as follows: First star: 28-32-24-28-24-24 sts, second star: 32-32-28-28-24-28 sts, third star: 32-36-28-32-24-28 sts, fourth star: 0-0-28-32-28-28 sts, fifth star: 0-0-0-0-28-28 sts. After M.3 there are 92-100-108-120-128-136 sts left on needle.

NECK:
Work 1 round with charcoal gray, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-8-16-18-22 sts evenly = 88-96-100-104-110-114 sts. Now work shortened rows mid back, back and forth on needle. K all rows. Insert a marker mid front. Work round to marker, then continue on 59-64-67-69-73-76 sts from marker, turn piece and work 30-32-34-34-36-38 sts on return row. Turn piece, work 45-48-51-51-54-57 sts, turn piece and work 60-64-68-68-72-76 sts on return row. Turn piece and work all sts to mid front. Now K 1 round on all sts, P 1 round and bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew openings under sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 11.03.2010
PATTERN: See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3 -----------------
YOKE: Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where bound off for armhole = 288-312-336-368-400-432 sts. Work 1 round off-white, AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-12-12-8-16-24 sts evenly = 276-300-324-360-384-408 sts. Continue in M.2 (23-25-27-30-32-34 repeats).
After M.2 there are 184-200-216-240-256-272 sts on needle. Continue in M.3, finish by arrow for your size, AT THE SAME TIME by each star dec evenly on row as follows: First star: 28-32-24-28-24-24 sts, second star: 32-32-28-28-24-28 sts, third star: 32-36-28-32-24-28 sts, fourth star: 0-0-28-32-28-28 sts, fifth star: 0-0-0-0-28-28 sts. After M.3 there are 92-100-108-120-128-136 sts left on needle.
New charts have been published.
Updated online: 11.12.2018
Correction - KNITTING TIP: KNITTING TIP:
Should you want less pattern and a shorter yoke, finish M.3 earlier (before arrow indicating your size). Move directly to instructions for NECK. Please note the sts count might deviate slightly.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = off-white
symbols = medium gray
symbols = light gray
symbols = charcoal gray
symbols = K2 tog
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 116-43) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Verena wrote:

Ist das ein Unisexmodell? Ich möchte meinem Sohn einen Pullover dieser Art stricken.

06.12.2020 - 07:56

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Verena, hier lesen Sie, wie man eine Damengröße in eine Herrengröße umrechnet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.12.2020 kl. 08:18

country flag Joke wrote:

Waarom wordt de mouw gebreid op breinaalden zonder knop en niet op een rondbreinaald? Heeft dit te maken met het tussen voegen van de mouw in het voorpand?

05.12.2020 - 20:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Joke,

Je zou de mouwen ook met een rondbreinaald kunnen breien, voor het patroon maakt dat niks uit, maar omdat je minder steken op de naald hebt (vergeleken met het lijf) kan het handiger zijn om met naalden zonder knop te breien.

06.12.2020 kl. 13:38

country flag Rosemarie wrote:

Die erste Abnahme beidseits der markierungsfäden, sind das 8 cm mit Bündchen, oder ab Bündchen 8 cm?

09.07.2019 - 17:20

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rosemarie, die 8 cm werden von der Anschlagskante gemessen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

10.07.2019 kl. 09:01

country flag Anette Jensen wrote:

Hej med jer. Jeg er ved at strikke denne smukke bluse, og er nået til M3. Jeg forstår ikke at på modellen på billederne er der lukket af længe før man skal ifølge opskriften. Modellen er lukket af ved 1. stjerne. Hvordan i alverden hænger det sammen, både med længden og med indtagninger ved stjernerne ?? Det forstår jeg slet ikke !! Mvh Anette

30.10.2018 - 09:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anette, målene stemmer hvis du holder samme strikkefasthed som vi har brugt i opskriften. Det er 21 m på 10 cm i bredden men ikke mindst 28 pinde på 10 cm i højden. God fornøjelse!

01.11.2018 kl. 15:40

country flag Heckmann wrote:

Bonjour , j'ai tricoté ce modèle au féminin pour une amie = très bien . J'aimerais savoir s'il est fiable de suivre les mêmes explications ( en nombre de mailles à monter et diminutions ) pour un homme taille 4 (en qualité Karisma ) car les encolures des pulls norvégiens proposés ne me conviennent pas . Avec tous mes remerciements Cordialement

04.03.2015 - 09:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Heckmann, vous pouvez adapter ce modèle pour une version "homme", traditionnellement, les modèles homme n'ont pas de diminutions sur les côtés (forme trapèze), vous pouvez donc ajuster en fonction d'un pull similaire en vous basant sur les mesures indiquées dans le schéma du bas de la page. Votre magasin DROPS pourra vous conseiller. Bon tricot!

04.03.2015 kl. 09:46

country flag Klara B wrote:

Det ser ut til at bilde ikke samsvarer helt med oppskriften.På bildet kommer halsen rett før 2.stjerne i M.3. I oppskriften står det også at halsen skal strikkes i natur, på bildet er den koksgrå. Er det jeg som har sett veldig feil eller er det noe i oppskriften som ikke stemmer?

15.07.2014 - 18:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Klara. Jeg tror du har ret og det er en skrivefejl. Jeg ville også strikke forhøyningen bag i koksgrå. Jeg skal melde det hos vores Design Team og de vil se på det efter sommerferien.

16.07.2014 kl. 17:30

country flag Anncathrin Hedman wrote:

Undrar över oket i mönster 116-43. Oklart hur minskningen ska ske "stickas och minskas efter M2"? Alltså efter första minskning på 12 maskor.

15.08.2013 - 19:59

DROPS Design answered:

Du ser tydligt i diagram M.2 de svarta markeringar som betyder 2 r tillsammans. På varv 22+23+24+25 minskar du 1 m varje gång du stickar diagrammet varvet runt. Lycka till!

22.08.2013 kl. 09:42

Manor Orna wrote:

Hi, I am knitting this pattern in a Large size. I have reached M3 second star. I have 192 sts on needle and I have to dec. 28 sts. 192 sts does not devide to 28 as you wrote. I dont understand hoe to dec. 28 sts. evently. Can you help me please? thank you Orna

08.12.2012 - 13:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Orna, there is no need to exactly divide to 28: it doesn’t matter if there is one stitch more or less between the decreases – important is, that the decreases are evenly (not all at one point) throughout the round . Happy knitting!

09.12.2012 kl. 08:39

country flag DROPS wrote:

Piirros M.2 neulotaan kokonaan loppuun. Kaarrokkeen alussa lukee, että työhön tulee 23-25-27-30-32-34 mallikertaa, eli kerrokseen tulee 23-25-27... jne. 12 s:n mallikertaa (esim. koko s: 23 x 12 = kerroksen 276 s).

12.01.2011 - 11:05

country flag Laura wrote:

Neulotaanko ruutupiirros m2 kokonaan vai mitä ihmettä? entä mitä tarkoittaa että sitä nulottaisiinkin vain 25 mallikertaa ??,on kyllä epäselvä ohje kertakaikkisesti. mallista otettu kuvakaan ei täsmää mihinkään koko(s,m,jne.)-ohjeeseen. eli siis neulonko m2 ruutupiirroksesta 25 kierrosta koossa m ja siirryn m3:seen vai kuuluuko neuloa m2 kokonaan ylös asti??

09.01.2011 - 08:49

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© 1982-2023 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.