DROPS / 117 / 13

Alaskan Beauty by DROPS Design

DROPS tunic in ”Alaska” with raglan sleeves and cable pattern on yoke. Size S to XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no X-347

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-102-110-120-130 cm / 34 5/8''-37 3/4''-40''-43 3/8''-47 1/4''-51''
Full length: 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm / 30''-30¾''-31½''-32¼''-33''-33 7/8''

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
750-850-900-1000-1100-1200 g color no 53, dark pink mix

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 5.5 mm/US 9 – or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''. When working cables on yoke height of approx 22 rows = 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 4.5 mm/US 7 – for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 2.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.75$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2 – see diagram for your size. Pattern in diagram is seen from RS.

Body piece and sleeves are worked from WS, they are then turned inside out before being slipped on the same circular needle for yoke.

BODY PIECE: Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 224-240-256-272-296-320 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Alaska. Work rib = P2/K6. When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'' dec all K6 to K5 – dec by K tog the first 2 sts in each K-section = 196-210-224-238-259-280 sts.
When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'' dec all K5 to K4 – dec by K tog the last 2 sts in each K-section = 168-180-192-204-222-240 sts. When piece measures 18 cm / 7'' change to circular needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 and continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 20-20-20-20-22-24 sts evenly = 148-160-172-184-200-216 sts. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Insert a marker each side = 74-80-86-92-100-108 sts between markers on front piece and back piece. When piece measures 20-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8''-8¼''-8¾''-9''-9½''-9¾'' dec 1 st on each side of each marker by K2 tog, and repeat the dec on every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' a total of 7 times = 120-132-144-156-172-188 sts. When piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45-46 cm / 16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''-18'' inc 1 st on each side of each marker. Repeat the inc on every 3 cm / 1 1/8'' a total of 5 times = 140-152-164-176-192-208 sts. When piece measures 56-58-59-60-61-62 cm / 22"-22 3/4"-23 1/4"-23 5/8"-24"-24 3/8" bind off 6 sts each side for armhole (i.e. 3 sts on each side of marker) = 128-140-152-164-180-196 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE: Cast on 56-56-56-64-64-64 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Alaska. Work rib = P2/K6. When piece measures 5 cm / 2'' dec all K6 to K5 – dec by K tog the first 2 sts in each K-section = 49-49-49-56-56-56 sts. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'' dec all K5 to K4 – dec by K tog the last 2 sts in each K-section = 42-42-42-48-48-48 sts. When piece measures 15 cm / 6'' change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm / US 9 and continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 2-1-0-3-2-1 sts evenly = 40-41-42-45-46-47 sts. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. When piece measures 17 cm / 6 3/4'' inc 1 st each side of marker, and repeat the inc on every 5-3.5-3-2.5-2.5-2 cm / 2"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4" a total of 6-8-10-11-12-13 times = 52-57-62-67-70-73 sts. When piece measures 45-46-46-46-46-46 cm / 17 3/4"-18"-18"-18"-18"-18" bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve = 46-51-56-61-64-67 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE: Turn body piece and sleeves inside out, i.e. with WS on the outside. Now slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where bind off for armholes = 220-242-264-286-308-330 sts. Insert a marker 1-9-17-3-10-17 sts in on one of the sleeves (i.e. there are 1-9-17-3-10-17 sts, 1 marker and then 45-42-39-58-54-50 sts on this sleeve) – Round now beg by marker – important as this will place a cable mid front! P 0-0-1-0-1-2 rounds and now work next round as follows: * P1, inc 1 st in next st and K both sts, P8, inc 1 st in each of the next 2 sts and K all 4 sts, P8, inc 1 st in next st and K both sts, P1 *, repeat from *-* (= a total of 10-11-12-13-14-15 times) = 260-286-312-338-364-390 sts. Now continue in M.1 – see diagram for your size. After M.1 there are 80-88-96-104-112-120 sts on round. Continue in M.2 (= neck) for 12 cm / 4¾'', and bind off with K over K and P over P.

ASSEMBLY: Sew openings under arms.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 06.01.2010
chart symbols has been edited


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K
= P
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P2, K2 from cable needle.
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, P2 from cable needle.
= slip 2 sts on cable needle behind piece, K2, K2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle.
= P2 tog

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 117-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (48)

Danielle Minville 12.05.2020 - 01:32:

Erreur majeure dans le diagramme.

DROPS Design 12.05.2020 kl. 10:06:

Bonjour Mme Minville, pouvez-vous nous en dire plus sur l'erreur en question? Quelle taille tricotez-vous (quel diagramme), quel rang et quelle erreur? Ce modèle a déjà été réalisé tellement de fois avec succès, et nous n'avons pas eu de retour, s'il y a une erreur, nous devrons la corriger, merci. Bon tricot!

Veerle 13.12.2019 - 09:16:

Hallo, ik heb nog geen antwoord gekregen op mijn vraag van 5/12/2019. Alvast bedankt!

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 15:53:

Dag Veerle,

Je vraag stond bij de algemene opmerkingen, vandaar dat hij over het hoofd was gezien, maar hij is inmiddels beantwoord.

Veerle 05.12.2019 - 20:43:

In het patroon staat bij de PAS in maat Medium: Zet nu de mouwen op dezelfde rondbreinld als het lijf waar afgekant is voor de armsgaten = 242 st. Plaats een markeerdraad na 9 st op een van de mouwen (dus er zijn 9 st, 1 markeerdraad en dan 42 st op deze mouw) – De nld begint vanaf nu bij deze markeerdraad.\r\nMijn vraag is nu: begint de naald dan links of rechts van deze markeerdraad, brei ik eerst 9 steken van de mouw en dan de rest of brei ik eerst 42 steken en dan de rest?

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 15:51:

Dag Veerle,

De naald begint na de 9 steken, dus je begint de naald bij de markeerderaaad en je breit 42 steken van de mouw, dan het pand, dan de andere mouw, dan het andere pand en tot slot de laatste 9 steken van de eerste mouw.

Veerle 04.08.2019 - 22:14:

Ik zou deze jurk willen breien in het kleur dat op de foto staat, donkerroze. Dit is volgens de uitleg :Drops Alaska donkerroze mix kleur 53, maar deze kleur bestaat niet in mix, enkel in unicolour. Welk garen moet ik dan bestellen? Alvast bedankt voor uw antwoord!

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 15:47:

Dag Veerle,

Dit kleurnummer bestaat nog wel, maar heeft alleen een andere naam gekregen: robijnrood. De kleur zelf is verder niet anders.

Alys35 23.01.2019 - 17:05:

Merci pour votre réponse. Mais je me suis sans doute mal expliquée...J'ai bien compris qu'on tricote sur l'endroit pour plus de facilité, et qu'on retourne sur l'envers ensuite SI on veut un pull en jersey envers. Mais moi je voudrais réaliser ce pull en jersey endroit. Ma question porte sur la réalisation de l'empiècement dans ce cas: dois-je le faire selon la grille donnée ( torsades endroit sur fond de jersey envers), ou vaudrait-il mieux intervertir, si c'est faisable?

DROPS Design 24.01.2019 kl. 09:03:

Bonjour Alys35, les torsades se font généralement sur fond jersey envers, vous pouvez essayer un échantillon du motif sur fond jersey endroit pour voir si le rendu vous plairait - tricotez par ex 1 ou 2 fois M.1 en largeur (avec 1/2 m point mousse de chaque côté par ex). Bon tricot!

Alys35 23.01.2019 - 14:40:

Bonjour, Je souhaite tricoter ce modèle sans le retourner, c'est à dire en le laissant sur le jersey endroit. Comment réaliser le diagramme de torsades? Tel que prévu? Ou dois-je intervertir malle endroit/ maille envers dans la grille et dans les instructions? Je n'arrive pas à me représenter la chose... Merci pour votre réponse.

DROPS Design 23.01.2019 kl. 16:06:

Bonjour Alys35, on tricote le début en jersey endroit pour qu'il soit plus facile de tricoter (on tricote en général plus facilement des mailles endroit que des mailles envers), mais vous pouvez le tricoter en jersey envers dès le début, ainsi, vous n'aurez pas à retourner les pièces sur l'endroit avant l'empiècement. Bon tricot!

Martha 17.02.2018 - 18:12:

Es ist nicht nur ein aussergewöhnlich schönes Modell, es ist auch sehr, sehr angenehm zu tragen. Ich habe es in den Grössen XXXL, M und S gestrickt und wir sind mit allen Ergebnissen super happy.

Hilda 16.02.2018 - 21:55:

Ik ben boos.Brei deze jurk en ben bezig met bol 10 en weer een knoop dus in elke bol 1.Brei altijd met drops nog nooit meegemaakt.Wat gaat U hieraan doen.Het is gekocht bij breiparadijs. hilda

DROPS Design 20.02.2018 kl. 16:57:

Hallo Hilde, Dat is heel vervelend. Voor alle klachten over het garen en eventuele terugvorderingen kun je terecht bij het verkooppunt. Het verkooppunt kan de klacht dan weer doorsturen naar ons.

MARIA DANIELSSON 23.01.2016 - 12:52:

Två viktiga kommentarer till dig som vill sticka denna klänning: 1. Det rekommenderade garnet är väldigt stickigt. Välj ett mjukare garn. 2. Mönstret stämmer inte med bilden. På de mindre storlekarna saknas den tredje och minsta medaljongen. Jag fick dra upp och lägga till denna med hjälp av mönstret för de större storlekarna. Dock innehållet det mönstret en extra flätning som ej finns på fotot, och den uteslöt jag.

Griet De Backer 20.01.2016 - 20:08:

Vraag: ik wil deze jurk bij mijn favorieten zetten maar ben vergeten hoe dat moet. Waar op de site staat de uitleg?

DROPS Design 21.01.2016 kl. 13:35:

Hoi Griet. Klik op het hartje boven rechts op de foto en typ uw mailadres. U kunt dan het patroon terugvinden door uw mailadres in te voeren onder "Mijn favorieten"

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