DROPS Baby / 10 / 17

DROPS Baby 10-17 by DROPS Design

Jacket, hat and socks with borders in Alpaca

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months – 2 -3/4 years
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 - 86/92 – 98/104

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio

Jacket and hat:
100-100-100-150-150 g colour no 5575, navy blue
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 7238, dark olive
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 7815, green/ turquoise
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 6790, dark blue
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 3900, tomato
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 100, off-white

Socks:
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 7238, dark olive


DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 2.5 and 3 mm

DROPS Smily buttons no 554, 6 pcs for jacket

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 24 sts x 32 rows on needle size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.

Pattern: See diagrams M.1-M.2. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

JACKET:
Back and front piece: The jacket is knitted back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 119-135-151-167-183 sts (includes 1 edge st each side towards mid front) on needle size 2.5 mm with navy blue. Knit 6 rows garter sts, change to circular needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking sts. Remember the knitting tension!
When piece measures 10-11-14-15-18 cm knit M.1. At the same time when piece measures 16-17-20-23-25 cm knit next row as follows: 28-32-35-39-43 sts (= front piece), cast off 4-4-6-6-6 sts for armhole, 55-63-69-77-85 sts (= back piece), cast off 4-4-6-6-6 sts for armhole, 28-32-35-39-43 sts (= front piece).
Now complete each piece separately.

Right front: = 28-32-35-39-43 sts. Cast off for sleeve cap on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1-1-2 times and 1 st 2-3-4-5-5 times = 24-27-29-32-34 sts. After M.1 finish the piece in navy blue. When piece measures 23-25-28-32-35 cm cast off 6-7-7-8-9 sts mid front for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 2-2-2-2-2 times and 1 st 3-3-5-5-5 times = 11-13-13-15-16 sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 27-29-33-37-40 cm.

Left front: = 28-32-35-39-43 sts. Continue as for right front, but mirrored.

Back: = 55-63-69-77-85 sts. Cast off for sleeve cap each side as described for front piece = 47-53-57-63-67 sts. When piece measures 25-27-31-35-38 cm cast off the middle 21-23-27-29-31 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on every other row 2 times = 11-13-13-15-16 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 27-29-33-37-40 cm.

Sleeves: Cast on 36-38-40-42-44 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with navy blue and knit 6 rounds garter sts. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit M.2. After M.2 finish the sleeve in navy blue. At the same time when piece measures 4 cm inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 6-8-9-11-12 times on every 7-6-6-5-6 round = 48-54-58-64-58 sts. When piece measures 17-20-21-25-28 cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm and finish the sleeve back and forth on needles. Dec for sleeve cap each aide on every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1-1-1 times, 2 sts 2-2-3-4-4 times, 1 st 2-2-1-1-1 times and 2 sts each side until piece measures 22-25-27-31-35 cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.
Front edges: Pick up approx 60 to 90 sts along left front edge on needle size 2.5 mm navy blue. P 1 row from RS and continue in Rib (= *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*). When Rib measures 2 cm cast off. Repeat along right front edge, but after 0.5 cm make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed on row, the bottom one approx 1.5 cm from the edge and the top one approx 4 cm from the top edge (there will also be a buttonhole on neckline). 1 buttonhole = cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on the return row.
Neckline: Pick up approx 71 to 91 sts (divisible by 2+1) round the neck (incl front edges) on needle size 2.5 mm with navy blue. P 1 row from RS and continue in Rib. At the same time on the first row in Rib make 1 buttonhole in line with the others on right front edge. Cast off when Rib measures 1.5 cm.
Set in sleeves. Sew on buttons.
Edges: Sew buttonhole stitches along bottom edges and round sleeve edges. Use olive and sew over 2 sts in the width and 4 rows in the height.

__________________________________________________________________

HAT:
DROPS double pointed needles size 3 mm.
To fit head circumference: 41-44-46-48-50 cm

Pattern: See diagram M.3. The entire pattern is knitted in stocking sts.

The hat is knitted in M.3. Begin with ear flaps, knitted back and forth on double pointed needles. Cast on 4 sts on needle size 3 mm with navy blue and knit M.3.
At the same time inc 1 st each side on every other row a total of 8-9-10-11-12 times = 20-22-24-26-28 sts. Now inc 2 sts on the right side of piece (towards forehead) on every other row a total of 2-2-3-3-3 times = 24-26-30-32-34 sts. Remember the knitting tension. Piece now measures approx 6.5-7-8-8.5-9.5 cm. Put piece aside and knit another ear flap with inc the opposite side.

Put earflaps on double pointed needles as follows:
Cast on 22-24-24-24-26 sts between the ear flaps at the front and 16-18-18-18-20 sts between ear flaps at the back = 86-94-102-108-114 sts.
Measure piece from this point onwards. Continue in pattern.
When piece measures 7-8-9-10-11 cm dec 20-20-22-26-30 sts evenly on round = 66-74-80-82-84 sts.
Knit 2 cm and then dec 16-18-22-22-22 sts evenly on round = 50-56-58-60-62 sts.
Knit 2 cm and then dec 14-20-22-14-16 sts = 36-36-36-46-46 sts.
Knit 2 cm and then dec 18-18-18-10-10 sts = 18-18-18-36-36 sts.
Knit 1 cm and then dec 9-9-9-18-18 sts evenly = 9-9-9-18-18 sts. Continue as follows:
3 smaller sizes: knit 3 cm, cut the thread and pull through remaining sts.
2 larger sizes: knit 1 cm and knit all sts tog 2 by 2 = 9-9 sts.
Knit 3 cm, cut the thread and pull through remaining sts.
Hat measures (from bottom of ear flap) approx 23.5-25-27-29.5-31.5 cm.

Assembly:
Pick up approx 70-90 sts on needle size 3 mm with navy blue round the front bottom edge – beg mid right ear flap and finish mid left ear flap. Knit 6 rows garter sts, at the same time inc 1 st inside edge st each side on every other row. Cast off. Pick up approx 60 to 80 sts round back bottom edge on needle size 3 mm with dark grey/blue and knit 6 rows garter sts, inc by ear flaps as described for front edge. Sew tog edges under ear flaps. Sew buttonhole sts round front and back edges with olive over 2 sts in the width and 4 rows in the height. Make 2 small pompongs in navy blue and attach to each ear flap.
___________________________________________________________________

SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 -12/18 months – 2 years
Foot length: 10-11-12-14 cm

DROPS double pointed needles size 2 and 2.5 mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 35 rows on needle size 2.5 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm

Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*

Moss stitch:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from * - *.
Row 2: * P over P and P over K *.
Repeat the 2 rows.

Cast on 58-60-62-64 sts on needle size 2 mm with olive Alpaca. Knit Rib. When piece measures 4-5-5-5 cm K tog 3 sts mid back, knit 4 rounds in Rib and K tog 3 sts mid back = 54-56-58-60 sts. When piece measures 10-11-12-13 cm change to needles size 2.5 mm and continue in stocking sts, at the same time dec to 46-50-50-54 sts. After 2 rounds knit next round as follows: *K 2 tog, yo*, repeat from *-*. Knit 1 round in stocking sts and now knit the middle 10-12-12-14 sts (= upper foot) in moss sts – put remaining 36-38-38-40 sts on a thread. After 4-5-5.5-7 cm pick up 10-12-14-16 sts on each side of upper piece and put sts from thread back on needles = 66-74-78-86 sts. Knit 1.5-2-2.5-3 cm in moss sts over all sts and P 1 round. Now cast off all sts of both sides of the middle 10-12-12-14 sts and continue over these in moss sts for sole. Cast off when sole measures 9-10-11-13 cm. Sew the sole to the sock. Crochet a chain in ch measuring approx 30-35 cm and pull through the row of holes.

Diagram

= navy blue
= dark blue
= dark olive
= green/turquoise
= off-white
= tomato


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 10-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Uschi 07.12.2019 - 19:58:

Hallo, welche Socken bzw. Puschen sind auf dem Foto zu sehen? :)

DROPS Design 09.12.2019 kl. 08:50:

Liebe Uschi, die Anleitung für diese Socken finden Sie auf diese Seite, nach der Jacke und der Mütze. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Annelie 25.01.2015 - 20:20:

Hej! Jag håller på med koftan och ska precis göra första armen. Är det meningen att de ska stickas runt på strumpstickor eller fram och tillbaka? Det står att man ska sticka rätstickning de första 6 varven.

DROPS Design 29.01.2015 kl. 15:18:

Hej Annelie, Ärmen stickar du runt på strumpstickor! Lycka till !

Sarah 14.12.2012 - 16:51:

Hallo. Ik heb een vraag over de volgende zin: 'Kant daarbij af voor het armsgat aan de zijkant 2 st x 1-1-1-1-2 en 1 st x 2-3-4-5-5 in elke 2e nld = 24-27-29-32-34 st.' (bij de voorpanden) niet. Als ik de grootste maat brei, betekent dat in de 2 naald 3 st, 2 naalden verder weer 3, dan 1, en nog twee keer 1? Alvast bedankt, ook voor de mooie patronen!

DROPS Design 15.12.2012 kl. 17:21:

Voor de grootste maat moet je dan afkanten: 2 keer 2 st en 5 keer 1 st aan beide kanten. Er zijn 5 maten en u breit de grootste maat - laatste getallen. De kleinste maat (1/3 mnd) is dan de eerste getallen (= 1 keer 2 st en 2 keer 1 st).

Drops Design 17.05.2010 - 21:18:

Renate, there has been some sentences missing in the English translation, we have now added them, so please print the pattern again. Thank you so much for letting us know!

Renata 14.05.2010 - 20:32:

I am working on the hat. I have 50 stitches. Then the pattern says "Knit 1 cm and dec 9-9-9-18-18 sts evenly = 9-9-9-18" I had 50 stitches, I decreased 9 stitches, that should equal 41 stitches not 9 stitches. Am I supposed to knit 3 more cm and then pull the thread through 41 stitches or keep decreasing 9 stitches every 1 cm for 3 cm and then pull the thread through the remaining 14 stitches? How should I be left with 9 stitches? Thank you, Renata

DROPS Design 16.12.2008 - 16:58:

After hat is knitted there shall be an edge in garter around the bottom edge. Could be done on double pointed needles or described first along front edge and then along back edge on straight needles. After this edge is knitted you embroider the button stitches along the edge. There are not mentioned any buttons.

Mary 14.12.2008 - 23:04:

Im finishing hat. Totally confused on asembly and where to do the 6 row knit/ inside the hat or on the edge and on pic I dont see a button etc...plz help , thnks Mary

DROPS Design 19.11.2008 - 06:03:

You are working the sleeve in the round, so you can't inc each side, so when the patter says mid under arm, it means you inc on the inside of the sleeve - mid under.

Mary 19.11.2008 - 05:33:

Hello Im working on this pattern. I am doing sleeve and dont understand the part saying 'inc mid' ... Im thinking it is just an increase but is it in the middle of the row or on the sides? Thnks ! Mary

Mary 16.10.2008 - 17:39:

Hi, Im just starting on this. Im not used to the pattern terms...any help? plz ? thank you , Mary

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