DROPS Baby / 10 / 10

DROPS Baby 10-10 by DROPS Design

Bunting bag in Alaska

Tags: bunting bags, hood,
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80

Materials: Garnstudio’s Alaska
500-550-600 g colour no 31, jeans blue
50-50-50 g colour no 45, light olive

Drops circular needle size 7 mm
DROPS wooden button no 511: 5 pcs
DROPS Duffel button, no 520: 1 pc

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100% Wool
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 1.80 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 14 sts x 17 rows on needle size 7 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter sts: Knit all rows
Pattern: See diagram M.1. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.
Buttonhole, bottom edge back piece: Make 5 buttonholes from the RS as follows:
Size 1/3 months: cast off st no 4, 16, 28, 40 and 52
Size 6/9 months: cast off st no 4, 18, 31, 45 and 58
Size 12/18 months: cast off st no 4, 20, 35, 51 and 66
and cast on 1 new st in the same place on the return row.

The bunting bag is knitted in two pieces, front and back, from bottom up and sewn tog at the sides and shoulders afterwards. The hood is knitted separately and sewn on afterwards.

Front piece: Knitted back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 56-62-70 sts on circular needle size 7 mm. Knit 2 rows garter sts and continue in M.1. Remember the knitting tension! When piece measures 42-45-50 cm inc 1 st each side for sleeves on every other row: 3-4-5 times and then 20 sts 1 time = 102-110-120 sts. Continue in M.1 with 14 sts each side in garter sts. When piece measures 52-57-62 cm put half the sts on a thread and finish each side separately.
Left front: = 51-55-60 sts. Cast on 3 new sts towards mid front = 54-58-63 sts. Continue in M.1 with 6 sts towards mid front in garter sts (= front edge). When piece measures 56-61-67 cm knit 4 rows garter sts over 8-9-10 sts towards mid front. Now cast off 6-7-8 sts towards mid front for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 1 st 4-4-4 times. Cast of remaining sts when piece measures 62-67-72 cm.
Right front: Put sts from thread back on needle and knit as left front, but mirrored. At the same time when piece measures approx 55-60-65 cm make a buttonhole on front edge as follows: cast off the 4th st from the edge and cast on a new st in the same place on the return row.

Back piece: Knitted back and forth on circular needle. There’s a 15 cm bottom edge to be folded over front piece and buttoned on. Cast on 56-62-70 sts on circular needle size 7 mm and knit 6 rows garter sts. On the next row make 5 buttonholes – see above – and continue in garter sts until piece measures 15 cm. Insert a marking thread and measure piece from this point onwards. Continue in M.1 over all sts. When piece measures 42-45-50 cm inc for sleeves as described for front piece = 102-110-120 sts Continue in M.1 with 14 sts each side in garter sts. When piece measures 59-64-69 knit 4 rows garter sts over the middle 18-20-22 sts. Now cast off the middle 14-16-18 sts for neck and continue with 2 sts towards neckline in garter sts. Cast of remaining sts when piece measures 62-67-72 cm.
Hood: Knitted from front edge towards the back. Cast on 46-50-54 sts on needle size 7 mm and knit 21-22-23 cm garter sts. Cast off.

Assembly: Sew shoulder, sleeve and side seams. Place the front edges over each other and sew at the bottom. Sew hood tog mid back, fold approx 4 cm at the front towards RS before sewing hood on to bag – sew along neckline and beg and finish half way in on the front edges. Sew on the Duffel button at the top of left front edge and the other 5 buttons approx 5 cm from bottom edge on front piece. Sew buttonhole stitches – for instructions please see School of Handcraft, technique pages – with light olive around sleeve edges and hood front edge. Sew over 2 sts (width) and 4 rows of garter sts (height).

Diagram

= K
= P

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 10-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Johanna 27.10.2018 - 19:31:

Bij vraag behoort de Nederlandse vlag

Johanna Baas-Boelman 27.10.2018 - 19:29:

Nog 1 vraagje voor hoeveel naalden staat 1 blokje omdat 1ry blokjes en dan 5 ryen leeg

Johanna Baas-Boelman 25.10.2018 - 09:12:

Bedankt voor het antwoord op mijn vraag dan begin ik maar opnieuw gr gr Johanna

Johanna Baasboelman 21.10.2018 - 12:11:

Het kruisje in het tel patroon moet dat tricot zijn of averechts een hoeveel naalden zijn het gewoon 2of 4

DROPS Design 24.10.2018 kl. 21:27:

Dag Johanna,

Het kruisje is averecht op de goede kant en recht op de verkeerde kant. Doordat je de volgende naald recht op de goede kant breit en de naald daarna weer averecht op de goede kant, ontstaan er 2 ribbels.

Agnete Bønnerup 29.08.2016 - 09:02:

Hej! Skal man bruge en 60 cm eller 80 cm lang 7.0mm rundpind?

DROPS Design 29.08.2016 kl. 11:24:

Hej Agnete. Standard ville jeg gaa ud fra en 80 cm. Du kan altid arbejde med magic loop om du har for lidt masker til at passe paa pinden:

Anna 02.04.2015 - 05:26:

Hi, I love this pattern. I'm a new knitter, only have done 2 projects so far. That being said. I was looking to try and make a sleeping bag sac for a baby when I came a crossed this bunting. So I'm trying to use this pattern but want to use zipper instead of button holes, and take out the hood. How would I do this without messing up the awesome pattern? Thank you in advance.

DROPS Design 02.04.2015 kl. 09:55:

Dear Anna, you can take help from any other pattern with a zipper - for any individual assistance to a pattern, you are welcome to contact your DROPS store, they will give you tips & advices even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

AmyS 19.01.2014 - 19:20:

I'm interested in BabyDrops 10-10. In the directions it mentions "see Diagram M.1" in several places. I'm not finding what "M.1" means? I don't see it associated with the diagram. Also, there's for instance, for the front piece, Knit 2 rows garter sts and continue in chart M.1. Then again, continue in diagram M.1 with 14 sts. Please help me understand this. I'm in the US and m1 here means to make one with a loop or picking up a mid-ssection thread.

DROPS Design 20.01.2014 kl. 09:20:

Dear AmyS, M.1 is the diagram of the pattern you will find at the end of the written pattern. In the diagram, 1 square = 1 st x 1 row. Diagram shows pattern from RS. Happy knitting!

Hernandez 25.05.2013 - 17:38:

Bonjour!je ne comprends pas pourquoi il faut tricoter avec des aiguilles circulaires cordialement

DROPS Design 27.05.2013 kl. 08:57:

Bonjour Mme Hernandez, on tricote ici en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles (102 à 120 m cf taille). Bon tricot!

Renée 21.03.2013 - 09:59:

Ouvrage terminé. Merci pour votre éclairage, malgré des décennies de pratique en tricot, les explications les plus simples peuvent plonger dans le brouillard, merci encore de votre gentillesse.

Renée 24.01.2013 - 19:42:

Bonsoir Je ne comprends pas du tout le fait des 4 rgs mousse et 8 mailles coté encolure merci de bien vouloir m'aider :-) encolure devant : À 56-61-67 cm de hauteur totale, tricoter 4 rangs au point mousse sur les 8-9-10 m côté encolure puis rabattre pour l'encolure tous les 2 rangs : 1 fois 6-7-8 m puis 4 fois 1 m.

DROPS Design 24.01.2013 kl. 21:02:

Bonjour Renée, à 56-61 cm (cf taille), vous tricotez les 8 m côté encolure au point mousse pendant 4 rangs, et les autres mailles comme avant. Vous rabattez ensuite côté encolure tous les 2 rangs (= tous les rangs qui commencent côté encolure): 1 fois 6-7-8 m (cf taille) et 4 fois 1 m. Bon tricot !

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