DROPS Baby / 10 / 12

Jayden by DROPS Design

Norwegian style jumper, trousers, hat and socks in BabyMerino

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 -24 months – 2 - 3/4 years
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 - 86/92 – 98/104

Materials: DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
100-100-100-150-150 g colour no 33, electric blue
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 32, turquoise
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 02, off-white
Trousers:
150-150- 200- 200-200 g colour no 32, turquoise
Hat:
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 33, electric blue
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 32, turquoise
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 02, off-white
Socks:
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 02, off-white
The whole set:
150-150-150-200-200 g colour no 33, electric blue
200-200-250-250-250 g colour no 32, turquoise
50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 02, off-white

DROPS pointed needles size 2.5 and 3 mm + size 2 mm for socks
DROPS wooden buttons no 503 off-white, 2 pcs (for jumper)
Elastic for trousers approx 50-60 cm

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 25 sts x 33 rows on needle size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.
Rib: *K1/P1*, repeat from *-*.
Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.

JUMPER:

Front piece: Cast on 64-72-80-90-98 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm with electric blue and knit 2 cm Rib. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking sts. Remember the knitting tension. When piece measures 15-16-20-23-25 cm cast off for armhole each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3-3-4-5-5 times = 48-56-62-70-78 sts. At the same time when piece measures 15-17-21-25-28 cm knit M.1 – make sure to place a horizontal repeat mid front. When piece measures 23-25-28-32-35 cm cast off the middle 14-16-16-18-20 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 3-3-5-5-5 times = 10-13-14-17-20 sts left on each shoulder. Continue as follows:
Right shoulder (when worn): Cast off all sts after M.1, piece measures approx 27-29-33-37-40 cm.
Left shoulder: After M.1 change to needle size 2.5 mm and knit 2 cm Rib in electric blue. At the same time after 0.5 cm make 1 buttonhole mid shoulder (cast off 2 sts and cast on 2 new sts on return row). Cast off in Rib after 2 cm.
Back piece: Cast on and knit as front piece. Dec for armhole as described for front piece and continue until piece measures 25-27-31-35-38 cm. Cast off the middle 24-26-30-32-34 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 1 st 2-2-2-2-2 times = 10-13-14-17-20 sts left on each shoulder.
Continue as follows:
Right shoulder (when worn): Cast off all sts after M.1, piece measures approx 27-29-33-37-40 cm.
Left shoulder: After M.1 change to needle size 2.5 mm and knit 2 cm Rib in blue. Cast off in Rib.

Sleeve: Cast on 46-48-50-52-52 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm with electric blue and knit 2 cm Rib with 1 edge st each side in garter sts. Change to needle size 3 mm and continue in stocking sts. When piece measures 4 cm inc 1 st each side on every 7-7-9-9-7 row a total of 6-7-6-7-10 times = 58-62-62-66-72 sts. When sleeve measures 18-20-22-25-29 cm knit M.2. At the same time when piece measures 18-20-22-24-28 dec for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time and 2 sts until M.2 is finished. Cast off after M.2, piece measures 23-25-27-30-34 cm.

Assembly: Sew right shoulder seam.
Neck: Pick up approx 90 to 100 sts round the neck on needle size 2.5 mm with electric blue and knit Rib. After 0.5 cm make 1 buttonhole in line with the other on shoulder. The neck is to be folded double towards WS so make another buttonhole after 4.5 cm. Cast off when neck measures 5 cm.
Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams. Fold neck double towards WS and attach. Sew on buttons.

TROUSERS:

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needle size 2.5 mm in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm.

The trousers are knitted from bottom up.
Right leg: Cast on 64-70-72-74-76 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm with turquoise and knit garter sts back and forth on needle. When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st inside the edge st each side on every 2-4-2-2-2 cm a total of 7-4-8-11-12 times = 78-78-88-96-100 sts. When piece measures 22-24-27-31-34 cm cast off 4 sts each side = 70-70-80-88-92 sts. Now inc on one side of piece (= mid back) inside edge st on every other row: 1 st 7-7-7-7-7 times and dec on the other side (= mid front) inside edge st on every other row: 1 st 4-2-9-12-15 times – dec by K2 tog. When piece measures 42-46-51-56-60 cm dec 13-13-13-15-16 sts evenly from the RS = 60-62-65-68-68 sts. Knit 2 cm in garter sts and then 2 cm in stocking sts. Cast off.

Left leg: Like right leg, but mirrored.

Assembly: Fold right leg double and sew inner leg seam within 1 edge st – Note! On the lower 4 cm (turn-up) sew with seam on the right side so that it doesn’t show when you turn it. Sew left leg in the same way. Sew together the trousers front and back within 1 edge st and sew the opening between the legs. Fold the top edge double towards the WS and sew – leave a little opening for the elastic band.

HAT:
To fit head circumference: 42-44-46-48-50 cm

Knitting tension: 25 sts x 33 rows on needle size 3 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.
Rib: *K1/P1*, repeat from *-*.
Pattern: See diagram M.2. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side. English Translations for the wording in the diagrams are given at the bottom of this pattern, and they are given in the vertical order in which they appear in the diagram.

Cast on 90-98-102-106-110 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 2.5 mm with electric blue and knit 2 cm Rib with 1 edge st each side in garter st. Change to needle size 3 mm and knit M.2. After M.2 finish the hat in blue. Cast off when piece measures 16-17-18-19-20 cm. Sew seam mid back. Sew tog at the top and make 3 pompons with a diameter of approx 5 cm in electric blue and turquoise and attach to each corner.


SOCKS:
To fit foot length: 10-11-12-14-15 cm

Knitting tension: 28 sts x 38 rows on needle size 2 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.
Rib: *K1/P1*, repeat from *-*.

Cast on 44-46-48-50-52 sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm and knit 5-5-6-7-7 cm Rib. Continue in stocking sts and knit heel as follows: 3-3.5-4-4-4.5 cm in stocking sts back and forth over 22 sts mid back. Now dec for heel as follows:
1st row (RS): Knit 12 sts, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn.
2nd row: slip 1 st as if to P, P4, P2 tog, P1, turn.
3rd row: slip 1 st as if to K, K5, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn.
4th row: slip 1 st as if to P, P6, P2 tog, P1, turn.
5th row: slip 1 st as if to K, K7, K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn.
6th row: slip 1 st as if to P, P8, P2 tog, P1, turn.
7th row: slip 1 st as if to K, K8, K2 tog, P1, turn.
8th row: slip 1 st as if to P, P10, P2 tog, P1, turn.
9th row: K2 tog, K10, K2 tog into back of st = 12 sts on needle (= total 34-36-38-40-42 sts).
Now pick up 8 sts on each side of the heel = 50-52-54-56-58 sts and dec 1 st on each side of the upper 20-22-24-26-28 sts on every other row a total of 7 times = 36-38-40-42-44 sts. When foot measures 8-9-11-12-13 cm (from the start of the heel dec) insert a marking thread each side and dec 1 st on each side of both threads on every round (4 dec per round) a total of 8-8-8-9-9 times. Cut the thread and pull through remaining sts. Sew tight.

Diagram

= jeans blue
= turquoise
= off-white



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 10-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (10)

Dorrit Evensen 21.08.2020 - 11:16:

Jeg strikker settet baby 10-12. Jeg skjønner ikke monteringen av lua. Syr baksiden sammen, men hva med resten? Det skal være 3 tupper på toppen. Hvordan blir det gjort. Har jo ikke et bilde som man kan se. Strikker i baby merino. Er egentlig en rutinert strikker, men dette forstår jeg ikke. Med vanlig hilsen Dorrit Evensen

DROPS Design 24.08.2020 kl. 12:59:

Hei Dorrit. Vi har dessverre ikke et bedre bildet av luen, men når du har sydd sammen midt bak, mål omkretsen og del den på 3. Sett et merke for hver tredjedel og legg kantene på hver side av merkene mot hverandre = 3 deler (1 merke på "toppen" og 2 sider mot hverandre = 1 del). Sy hver av de 3 delene sammen slik at det blir 3 like deler og at de møtes i midten. God Fornøyelse!

Monika Funaro 04.02.2020 - 22:10:

Samtidigt när ärmen mäter 18-20-22-24-28 cm avm det för ärmkulle i varje sida på vartannat v: 3 m 1-1-1-1-1 gång, sedan 2 m i varje sida till M.2 är färdig. Efter M.2 maskas det av, arb mäter 23-25-27-30-34 cm. Förstår inte instruktionen, vet ej hur man maskar av 3 maskor på slutet av stickan på rätsidan.

DROPS Design 07.02.2020 kl. 09:56:

Hej När vi skriver att man ska avmaska 3 m i varje sida så är det lättaste att avmaska 3 m först i början av varvet och sedan sticka varvet ut, vända arbetet och avmaska de första 3 maskorna på varvet. Lycka till!

Malstig 30.08.2016 - 11:49:

Det hade varit bra om det framgick att mönstret stickas både från rätan och avigan. Se till att en rapport kommer mitt fram.....ja, men då jag stickar till en 2-åring så ska mönstret fördelas över 70 maskor! 35 x 2 = 70 och då fattas det en maska för att hitta mitten. Det borde framkomma att man måste öka en maska. Det här är inget arbete för de som inte stickat så mycket. Var finns bild på mössan??

Vibeke Nielsen 14.08.2016 - 21:24:

Der står, at rapporten skal placeres mit på arbejdet på forstykket. Er det midten af rapporten eller en på hver side af midten. Og så står der noget med håndskrift, som jeg har svært ved at tyde/forstå?

DROPS Design 07.09.2016 kl. 14:32:

Hej Vibeke. Se her hvordan du placerer et diagram paa midten. Jeg tror det er en fejl med den haandskrift, jeg har bedt om at faa det fjernet.

Valérie 26.12.2015 - 23:16:

Bonjour, Je suis à la partie col : et là je ne comprend pas (relever autour de l'encolure 90 à 100 mailles) faut il compter aussi les 4 cm rajoutés à l'épaule gauche. Je vous remercie de me répondre. Valérie PERIE

DROPS Design 02.01.2016 kl. 13:52:

Bonjour Valérie, tout à fait, vous relevez les mailles tout autour de l'encolure, y compris les long des bordures de l'épaule - n'oubliez pas d'ouvrir la boutonnière en double pour l'ourlet. Bon tricot!

Siri Wilbur 07.02.2015 - 04:35:

Finally I realize that the M.2 for the sleeve does. Not mean make two stitches! But how can the sleeve measure 29cm and then 28cm before instructions to decrease it? Can you change the diagram labels to A and B? Or am I wrong? Thanks! Siri

DROPS Design 07.02.2015 kl. 09:26:

Dear Mrs Wilbur, in the 2 largest size, you will start to bind off for sleeve cap before working M.2, ie you bind off each side for sleeve cap when piece measures 28 cm (largest size), and work M.2 when sleeve measures 29 cm. Continue casting off each side and bind off all sts after M2, sleeve should measure 34 cm. Happy knitting!

Anita 15.11.2014 - 07:29:

There is an error in the patter M2. On the second row the pattern does not match the second row of M1. Why does the sleeve head come out smaller than the armhole?

DROPS Design 15.11.2014 kl. 09:58:

Dear Anita, when working M2, mark the last st you worked on first row, then start from this st on next row and read diagram from left to right (see also here). Sleeve cap is 5-6 cm high and should fit the armholes. Happy knitting!

Lora Parnell 06.06.2014 - 05:29:

Please clarify sleeve decrease. Do you also decrease the 2 st for 1 time or continue to decrease 2 st. every other row throughout the m2 until finished.

DROPS Design 06.06.2014 kl. 09:32:

Dear Mrs Parnel, you cast off for sleeve cap 3 sts 1 time at the beg of every row each side, then 2 sts at the beg of every row each side until M2 is finished. Happy knitting!

Marianne 04.10.2007 - 17:24:

Hej! Lite oklart hur man stickar byxan - ska hela byxan vara i rätstickning eller är det slätstickning efter 4 cm? Marianne

Marianne 04.10.2007 - 17:23:

Håller på och stickar byxorna men blir konfyst. Ska man byta till slätstickning efter 4 cm eller ska man fortsätta med rätstickning? När jag försöker titta på bilden i förstoring ser det ut som byxan är i slätstickning, men det är väldigt otydligt. Tacksam för svar. Hälsningar Marianne

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