DROPS / 112 / 29

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Knitted DROPS jacket with pattern and raglan sleeve in ”Classic Alpaca” or "Puna". Size S - XXXL.

Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS CLASSIC ALPACA from Garnstudio
800-900-1000-1100-1200-1300 g colour no 100, off-white

or use:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio
700-750-850-900-1000-1100 g colour no 01, off-white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) size 4 mm – or size needed to get 23 sts x 28 rows in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 511: 6-6-7-7-7-7 pcs.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

PATTERN: See diagram M.1. Diagram shows the pattern from the RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = cast off 4th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Make buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S: 12, 21, 30, 40, 50 and 60 cm.
SIZE M: 12, 22, 32, 42, 52 and 62 cm.
SIZE L: 10, 19, 28, 37, 46, 55 and 64 cm.
SIZE XL: 10, 20, 30, 39, 48, 57 and 66 cm.
SIZE XXL: 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 59 and 68 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 and 70 cm.

RAGLAN: If your knitting tension is too tight the raglan will be too short and the armhole too small. You may compensate for this by working an extra row without dec at regular intervals between rows with dec.

DECREASING TIP (applies to raglan):
Dec as follows from RS: beg 2 sts before marker, K2 tog, marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.
Dec as follows from WS: beg 2 sts before marker, P2 tog into back of loop, marker, P2 tog.
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BODY PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 217-241-257-281-305-337 sts (includes 8 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Classic Alpaca or Puna. P 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 8 garter sts (front band), * rib, K1/P3 *, repeat from *-* on the next 200-224-240-264-288-320 sts and finish with K1 and 8 garter sts (front band). GARTER ST – see above. When piece measures 10 cm continue as follows from RS: 8 garter sts, M.1 on the next 200-224-240-264-288-320 sts and finish with K1 and 8 garter sts. NOTE: 1 K st in M.1 sits over 1 K st from rib. Continue in pattern like this. Remember BUTTONHOLE – see above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Insert 2 markers in piece, 1 marker 58-64-68-74-80-88 sts in from the right side of piece and 1 marker 59-65-69-75-81-89 sts in from the left side (back piece = 100-112-120-132-144-160 sts). When piece measures 52-53-54-55-56-57 cm cast off 8 sts each side for armhole (= 4 sts on each side of marker) = 201-225-241-265-289-321 sts. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 52-56-56-60-60-64 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with Classic Alpaca or Puna. Work rib, K1/P3, for 6 cm and continue in M.1. NOTE: 1 K st in M.1 sits over 1 K st from rib. Insert a marker at beg of round (mid under arm). When piece measures 8 cm inc 1 st on each side of marker on every 3.5-3.5-3-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 12-12-14-14-18-18 times = 76-80-84-88-96-100 sts. Incorporate inc sts in M.1 as you go along. When piece measures 51-51-51-50-50-50 cm (less for the larger sizes because of wider shoulders) cast off 4 sts on each side of marker = 68-72-76-80-88-92 sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armhole = 337-369-393-425-465-505 sts. Insert a marker in all transitions between sleeves and body piece (= 4 markers). Continue in M.1 AT THE SAME TIME dec for RAGLAN – see above. NOTE! Make the first 2 dec on body piece only, not on the sleeves. Dec on every other row 17-17-19-19-19-19 times and then on every row 10-12-12-14-18-20 times. NOTE: On rows with no dec K 1 st on each side of marker from RS. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm slip 11-13-17-19-25 sts each side on stitch holders towards mid front for neck. Cast off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row: 2 sts 8 times. When all dec are complete there are 83-91-95-103-107-119 sts left on row.

HOOD:
Pick up 20-24-26-30-32-38 sts on each front piece (incl sts on stitch holders) from RS on needle size 4 mm = 123-139-147-163-171-195 sts. K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME dec 14-26-34-46-54-74 sts evenly = 109-113-113-117-117-121 sts. Continue as follows from RS: 8 garter sts, M.1 on the next 92-96-96-100-100-104 sts, finish with K1 and 8 garter sts. Cast off when hood measures 36-36-37-37-38-38 cm.

ASSEMBLY: Sew openings under arms. Sew on buttons. Fold hood double and sew tog at the top from the RS.

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= K from WS, P from RS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 112-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (34)

Miriam Alimonos 10.03.2020 - 14:31:

I can’t figure out the proper way to do the decreases on the neckline and segue to the hood.Is it possible that I am supposed to put the neckline stitches back on the main needle before decreasing? It certainly makes sense but it isn’t written that way. If I do the decreases before putting those stitches back on the needle, when I go to put then back on there is an odd gap. Bind of on live stitches while 17 sts on are on each holder, then join? Makes no sense. Do you have a video?

DROPS Design 10.03.2020 kl. 16:24:

Dear Mrs Alimonos, when piece measures 65 cm (3rd size), work the first 17 sts on the RS row and slip them on a thread, work remaining sts as before (with raglan dec) until 17 sts remain, slip these 17 sts on a thread (= there is now 17 sts on 2 threads on each side of piece), turn and work WS row. Turn and bind off 2 sts at the beginning of next 16 rows (= 2 sts 8 times on each side). Remember to continue raglan decreases. When working hood, you will take back the sts on threads and pick up sts along the cast off sts for neck. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

Tanja Meyer 05.02.2020 - 10:42:

Ich hatte Maschen Probe gestrickt sieht komisch gibt es dazu irgend ein Video wie man es strickt

DROPS Design 05.02.2020 kl. 14:24:

Liebe Frau Meyer, prüfen Sie mal Ihre Maschenanzahl. Es wird viel einfacher für Sie, direkte Hilfe von Ihrem DROPS Laden zu bekommen, gerne hilft man Ihnen dort gerne weiter, auch telefonisch oder per Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Tanja Meyer 04.02.2020 - 16:30:

Geht nicht falsch beschrieben Habe es gestrickt Sieht Mist aus

Tanja Meyer 04.02.2020 - 13:14:

Die Anleitung stimmt nicht habe es so gestrickt wie es da steht m1 von rechts am Ende sind 2 rechte übrig dann links nach rechts m1 stimmt auch nicht bitte um Korrektur

DROPS Design 04.02.2020 kl. 15:42:

Liebe Frau Meyer, Diagram M.1 stimmt schon ich habe gerade eine Maschenprobe gestrickt und Muster sieht schön aus. Bei den Hinreihen stricken Sie (= Reihe 1 und 3): *2 Maschen rechts, 1 Masche links, 1 Maschen rechts*, bei den Rückreihen stricken Sie (= Reihe 2 und 4): *3 Maschen rechts, 1 Masche links), So wird es gearbeitet. Vergessen Sie nicht die Krausrechte Maschen beidseitig, und am Ende den Hinreihen stricken Sie 1 Masche glatt rechts (genauso wie die 1. Masche in M.1 damit das Muster symetrisch wird). Versuchen Sie es vielleicht mit einer Maschenprobe mit weniger Maschen (= 2 x M.1 + 1 Masche + 2 Randmaschen beidseitig). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Tanja Meyer 04.02.2020 - 11:31:

Geht nicht auf wie stricke ich das auf der rückreihe

DROPS Design 04.02.2020 kl. 12:42:

Liebe Frau Meyer, hier lesen Sie wie man Diagramme strickt. Bei den Rückreihen stricken Sie Diagramm links nach rechts, dh 1 M links (wie die 1. Masche inM.1), dann *3 Maschen rechts, 1 Masche links*, von *bis * wiederholen (= 2. und 4. Reihe). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Tanja Meyer 04.02.2020 - 09:11:

Wie sollte das Muster gestrickt werden nach dem Bündchen von 10cm verstehe es nicht ganz Stricke größe s

DROPS Design 04.02.2020 kl. 11:27:

Liebe Frau Meyer, nach 10 cm stricken Sie: 8 M krausrippe, die nächsten 200 Maschen stricken Sie wie im M.1 (= wiederholen Sie 50 Mal die 4 Maschen von M.1), 1 Masche glatt rechts (= wie die 1. Masche in M.1), 8 M Krausrippe. hier lesen Sie mehr über Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marion Rozenhart 10.10.2019 - 21:10:

Goededag, ik begrijp niet helemaal hoeveel er in de pas geminderd dient te worden. Er staat: LET OP! Maak de eerste 2 minderingen alleen op het lijf, niet op de mouwen. Hoeveel steken worden hier geminderd ? En behoren deze tot de 'minderingen om de naald' of staat dat er los van. Ik kom in geen geval uit op het totaal aantal overgebleven steken in het patroon.

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 18:44:

Dag Marion,

In de naalden dat je alleen op het lijf mindert en niet op de mouwen, worden er in totaal op 1 naald 4 steken geminderd. Als je op zowel de mouwen als het lijf mindert, minder je 8 steken op een naald. Je mindert dus eerst 17-17-19-19-19-19 keer om de naald, waarbij je dus voor elke maat de eerste 2 keer dat je een mindernaald hebt, alleen op het lijf mindert.

Henrion Sandra 17.12.2018 - 15:14:

Bonjour qqn pourrait me le traduire en français ? Les traductions automatiques ne sont pas top. Merci

DROPS Design 18.12.2018 kl. 09:08:

Bonjour Mme Henrion, tous nos modèles sont traduits en français, cliquez sur le menu déroulant sous la photo pour modifier la langue affichée et choisissez "français". Bon tricot!

Agnola 05.08.2018 - 21:14:

Comment imprimer ce modèle ? Merci d'avance cordialement

DROPS Design 06.08.2018 kl. 09:55:

Bonjour Mme Agnola, cliquez sur l'icône de l'imprimante/Explications pour lancer l'impression. Bon tricot!

Eleonora 10.02.2018 - 08:38:

Buongiorno, sto lavorando questo bel modello, ma arrivata alle diminuizioni dello sprone non riesco a capire la NOTA: Sui f senza diminuzioni diminuire 1 m a ogni lato del segnapunti dal diritto del lavoro. Ma sto già facendo le dimunuizioni indicate: Diminuire a f alterni 17-17-19-19-19-19 e mi capitano già sul dritto. Se poteste aiutarmi, grazie

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