DROPS / 103 / 1

Silver Haze by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket in ”Eskimo”, "Andes" or ”Nepal” with A-shape and ¾-long or long sleeves. Size S to XXXL

ESKIMO
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL - XXXL

Materials: DROPS Eskimo from Garnstudio
¾-long sleeves:
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g, clr. no. 46, grey.
Long sleeves:
750-800-900-950-1050-1150 g, clr. no. 46, grey.

Or use:
Materials: DROPS Andes from Garnstudio
¾-long sleeves:
700-800-900-900-1000-1100 g, clr. no. 9015, grey.
Long sleeves:
800-900-1000-1000-1100-1200 g, clr. no. 9015, grey.

DROPS pointed needles size 8 mm – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.
DROPS Buffalohorn button no. 536: 3 pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
General comment:
The double moss sts at the front will pull a little when knitting, but will stretch out when the garment is finish.

Knitting tension: 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

Double moss sts:
1st row: * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: P over P and K over K.
3rd row: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*
4th row: K over K and P over P.
Repeat row 1-4.

Rib: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*.

Garter sts: Knit back and forth on all rows.

Button hole: Cast off for button hole at the right front piece. 1 button hole = Cast of the 4th st from the edge, on the returning row cast on a new st at the same place.
Cast off for button hole when the piece measures:
Size S: 33, 40 and 47 cm.
Size M: 35, 42 and 49 cm.
Size L: 37, 44 and 51 cm.
Size XL: 38, 45 and 52 cm.
Size XXL: 38, 46 and 54 cm.
Size XXXL: 38, 47 and 56 cm.


Back piece: Knit back and forth!
Cast on 64-68-72-80-84-88 sts (incl. 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. Knit 2 rows of garter sts, and then 2 rows of Rib with 1 edge st and 2 K sts each side (seen from the RS)– see explanation above. Continue in stocking sts. Remember the knitting tension!
When the piece measures 5 cm cast off 1 st each side on every 3½-3½-4½-4-5-5 cm a total of 8-8-7-8-7-7 times = 48-52-58-64-70-74 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm cast off for armholes each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-3 times and 1 st 1-2-3-3-3-4 times = 40-42-42-44-46-48 sts left.
When the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm cast off the mid 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts for the neck. On the next row cast off 1 more st towards the neck = 13-14-14-14-15-16 sts left for each shoulder.
Cast off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm.

Left front piece: Cast on 39-41-43-49-51-53 sts (incl. 1 edge st at the side) on needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. Knit 2 rows of garter sts and then 2 rows of Rib with 1 edge st and 2 P sts at the side (seen from the RS). Continue in stocking sts and 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts at the mid front in Double moss sts – see explanation above!
When the piece measures 5 cm cast off at the side as done for the back piece = 31-33-36-41-44-46 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm cast off for the armhole at the side as done for the back piece = 27-28-28-31-32-33 sts.
When the piece measures 49-51-53-54-56-58 cm cast off 10 sts at the mid front for the neck. Insert 1 MT (marking thread) after the cast off sts. Then cast off for the neck on every other row: 2 sts 2-2-2-3-3-3 times and 1 st 0-0-0-1-1-1 times = 13-14-14-14-15-16 sts left for the shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm.

Right front piece: Cast on and knit as left front but reverse. In addition remember to cast off for the buttonholes at the front edge – see explanation above.

Sleeve: The numbers before ( )apply for the ¾-long sleeves and the numbers in the ( ) applies for the long sleeves.
Cast on 34-34-34-38-38-38 sts (incl. 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. Knit in double moss sts – see explanation above – with 1 edge st each side. When the piece measures 10 cm continue in stocking sts. At the same time when the piece measures 11 (25) cm inc. 1 st each side on every 9-6-4½-6-4-2½ cm a total off 3-4-5-4-5-7 times = 40-42-44-46-48-52 sts. When the piece measures 34-33-32-31-29-28 (49-48-47-46-44-43) cm cast off for the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 sts 2-3-4-4-6-7 times, continue to cast off 2 sts each side until the piece measures 40 (55) cm, then cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts. The piece measures approx. 42 (57) cm.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams

Collar: Pick up approx. 24 to 28 sts in between the MT at the neck line (i.e do not pick up sts in the outer most 10 sts each side at the mid front). Knit 2 rows of garter sts – on the last row inc. 10 sts evenly distributed = 34-38 sts. Continue in Double moss sts with 1 garter sts each side. At the same time inc. 2 sts each side as follows: To inc. knit 2 sts in the outer most st, then make a yo which should be twisted on the returning row –incorporate new sts into pattern as going along. Inc 2 sts at the beg. of row a total of 6 times each side = 24 extra sts = a total of 58-62 sts. Cast off when the collar measures 12 cm mid back.
Sew the collar tight to the front pieces each side in the outer part of the edge, i.e. new sts are sewn to the 10 cast off sts each side. Sew the arm and the side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on the buttons.

_________________________________________________________________
NEPAL
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL - XXXL
Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio

¾-long sleeves:
600-650-750-800-900-1000 g, clr. 517, medium grey
Long sleeves:
700-750-800-900-1000-1050 g, clr. 517, medium grey.

DROPS pointed needles size 4.5 mm – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.
DROPS Buffalohorn buttons no. 536: 3 pcs.

Knitting tension: 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm

Double moss sts:
1st row: * P2, K2 *, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: P over P and K over K.
3rd row: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*
4th row: K over K and P over P.
Repeat row 1-4.

Rib: * K2, P2 *, repeat from *-*.

Garter sts: Knit back and forth on all rows.

Button hole: Cast off for button hole at the right front piece. 1 button hole = Cast of the 5th and 6th stt from the edge on the returning row cast on 2 new sts at the same place.
Cast off for button hole when the piece measures:
Size S: 33, 40 and 47 cm.
Size M: 35, 42 and 49 cm.
Size L: 37, 44 and 51 cm.
Size XL: 38, 45 and 52 cm.
Size XXL: 38, 46 and 54 cm.
Size XXXL: 38, 47 and 56 cm.

Back piece: Knit back and forth!
Cast on 96-104-112-124-132-136 sts (incl. 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal. Knit 2 rows of garter sts, and then 2 rows of Rib with 1 edge st and 2 K sts each side (seen from the RS)– see explanation above. Continue in stocking sts. Remember the knitting tension!
When the piece measures 5 cm cast off 1 st each side on every 2½-2½-2½-2½-2½-3 cm a total of 11-12-12-13-12-11 times = 74-80-88-98-108-114 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm cast off for armholes each side on every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2-2 times, 2 sts 0-1-2-3-4-5 times and 1 st 3-3-4-3-4-4 times = 62-64-66-68-72-74 sts left.
When the piece measures 51-53-55-57-59-61 cm cast off the mid 20-20-20-24-24-24 sts for the neck. On the next row cast off 1 more st towards the neck = 20-21-22-21-23-24 sts left for each shoulder.
Cast off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm.

Left front piece: Cast on 59-63-67-75-79-81 sts (incl. 1 edge st at the side) on needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal. Knit 2 rows of garter sts and then 2 rows of Rib with 1 edge st and 2 P sts at the side (seen from the RS). Continue in stocking sts and 22-22-22-26-26-26 sts at the mid front in Double moss sts – see explanation above! When the piece measures 5 cm cast off at the side as done for the back piece = 48-51-55-62-67-70 sts.
When the piece measures 35-36-37-38-39-40 cm cast off for the armhole at the side as done for the back piece = 42-43-44-47-49-50 sts.
When the piece measures 49-51-53-54-56-58 cm cast off 16 sts at the mid front for the neck. Insert 1 MT (marking thread) after the cast off sts. Then cast off for the neck on every other row: 2 sts 2-2-2-4-4-4 times and 1 st 2 times = 20-21-22-21-23-24 sts left for the shoulder.
Cast off remaining sts when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm.

Right front piece: Cast on and knit as left front but reverse. In addition remember to cast off for the buttonholes at the front edge – see explanation above.

Sleeve: The numbers before ( )apply for the ¾-long sleeves and the numbers in the ( ) applies for the long sleeves.
Cast on 50-50-54-54-58-58 sts (incl. 1 edge st each side) on needle size 4.5 mm with Nepal. Knit in double moss sts– see explanation above – with 1 edge st each side. When the piece measures 10 cm continue in stocking sts. At the same time when the piece measures 11 (25) cm inc. 1 st each side on every 5-3-3-2-2-1½ cm a total of 5-7-7-9-9-11 times 60-64-68-72-76-80 sts.
When the piece measures 34-33-32-31-29-28 (49-48-47-46-44-43) cm cast off for the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 time and 1 sts 1-2-3-4-6-7 times, continue to cast off 2 sts each side until the piece measures 41 (56) cm, then cast off 3 sts each side 1 time and cast off remaining sts.
The piece measures approx. 42 (57) cm.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams.

Collar: Pick up approx. 36 to 42 sts in between the MT at the neck line (i.e do not pick up sts in the outer most 16 sts each side at the mid front). Knit 2 rows of garter sts – on the last row inc. 12 sts evenly distributed = 48-54 sts. Continue in Double moss sts with 1 garter sts each side. At the same time inc. 2 sts each side as follows: To inc. knit 2 sts in the outer most st, then make a yo which should be twisted on the returning row –incorporate new sts into pattern as going along. Inc 2 sts at the beg. of row a total of 9 times each side = 36 extra sts = a total of 84-90 sts. Cast off when the collar measures 12 cm mid back.
Sew the collar tight to the front pieces each side in the outer part of the edge, i.e. new sts are sewn to the 16 cast off sts each side. Sew the arm and the side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on the buttons.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 08.10.2007
General comment:
The double moss sts at the front will pull a little when knitting, but will stretch out when the garment is finish.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 103-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (238)

Brodbeck-Berger Christin 11.12.2019 - 09:59:

Die Erklärung zum Kragen irritiert: was heisst „auf beiden Seiten nicht über den 10 Maschen zur vorderen Mitte zu“? WO ist denn die vordereMitte?

DROPS Design 11.12.2019 kl. 12:59:

Liebe Frau Brodbeck-Berger, es handelt sich um die ersten 10 Maschen beim rechten Vorderteil und die letzten 10 Maschen beim linken Vorderteil - von der Vorderseite gesehen. Dh die Maschen werden von der 11. Maschen am rechten Vorderteil bis 10 Maschen Perlmuster bleiben am linken Vorderteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Renee Beerens 22.10.2019 - 21:27:

Hoe moet ik de kraag precies aan de voorpanden naaien? De 10 niet gebruikte steken aan de zijkant meten 10 cm. Als ik de kraag middenachter echter door brei tot 12 cm is de zijkant van de kraag veel langer dan de 10 cm waar deze op zou moeten aansluiten.

DROPS Design 30.10.2019 kl. 12:11:

Dag Renee,

Het is inderdaad wel de bedoeling dat je de kanten van de kraag aan de biezen midden voor naait, dus dan zou ik de kraag iets minder hoog breien, zodat hij mooi aansluit.

Kaisa 03.09.2019 - 12:04:

Hi! Is the yarn used in the photos on this page Eskimo or one of the alternative yarn options? Also, which colour is used? Thanks!

DROPS Design 03.09.2019 kl. 14:49:

Dear Kaisa, the jacket in the picture has been worked with Eskimo colour no 46 (see Materials list under the header). Happy knitting!

Terry Harley 26.08.2019 - 17:37:

What is the difference between the Eskimo, Nepal, and Andes patterns? I'm so confused.

DROPS Design 27.08.2019 kl. 09:03:

Dear Mrs Harley, the yarns are different thicknesses - the jacket worked in Eskimo or Andes is worked with a tension of 11 sts x 15 rows = 10 x10 cm while the jacket worked with Nepal is worked with a tension of 17 sts x 22 rows = 10 x 10 cm. Happy knitting!

Sue Garner 27.06.2019 - 16:51:

Got to trying to sew the shoulder seams and there is no way front and back will fit. The armhole and top of arm don't fit together either. I knit a lot and am really frustrated with the outcome , it's a pattern I really like, but despite trying to follow it , I have ended up with something I am going to have to create my own pattern to join parts together or pull it all down. Have you done any corrections to the pattern since December last year ? This is from a very frustrated knitter.

DROPS Design 28.06.2019 kl. 06:23:

Dear Mrs Garner, there are no new corrections to this very popular pattern - make sure you have the right measurements on both armholes and sleeve cap, lay the sleeve over armhole pinning if if required before sewing, it should fit. For any further individual assistance please show your work to your store (even per mail), they could be able to find if there is anything wrong. Happy knitting!

Katherine 10.04.2019 - 19:00:

Hola tengo problemas para continuar con el cuello. No entiendo cómo debo distribuir equitativamente los 10 ptos que aumento cuando hago las última vta de pto musgo. Después dice que continúe con el pto de arroz y tengo que aumentar 2 ptos a cada lado pero no se si ese aumento lo hago en la mismas fila. Muchas gracias por la ayuda y estoy disfrutando con el patrón.

Marja Stravers 18.03.2019 - 19:33:

Ik ben dit vest aan het breien voor maat L Nu wordt bij het rugpand voor de mouwmindering 1x3, 3x2 en 4x1 steek minderen opgegeven. Maar het bovenste deel is dan nog maar ongeveer 33 cm breed. Dat is toch teveel minderen? Het is echt te smal, ook voor de maat in de tekening die uit komt op 38 cm. De rest van de maten klopt.

DROPS Design 21.03.2019 kl. 17:04:

Dag Marja,

Voor de armsgaten kant je in totaal 8 steken af aan beide kanten, dus in totaal 16 steken. Dan heb je 42 steken over en dit zou bij de juiste stekenverhouding op ongeveer 38 cm breed komen. Misschien even het totaal aantal steken nakijken en controleren of de stekenverhouding klopt voor Eskimo. Als je met Nepal breit, neem dan het patroon voor Nepal dat eronder staat, hiervoor is het aantal steken aangepast.

Adriana Akkermans 31.01.2019 - 22:18:

Ik wil dit vest gaan breien met Eskimo nld 7 omdat ik erg los brei: ik heb dan 8 st. = 10 cm. Als ik 56 steken zou opzetten voor de achterkant, kom ik aan de juiste breedte. Mijn vraag is: is dit vest nietv heel erg breed aan de onderkant

DROPS Design 03.02.2019 kl. 11:36:

Dag Adriana,

Onderaan het patroon staat de tekening van het vest met de maten erbij. Dit zijn vrij normale afmetingen. Als je 8 steken hebt op 10 cm. Dan deel je het aantal op te zetten steken door 11 en dat getal doe je weer keer 8.

Kathy 21.01.2019 - 02:05:

Hola, no entiendo bien la explicación para hacer la espalda: [Tejer 2 vtas pt musgo, y luego 2 vtas pt resorte con 1 pt de orillo y 2 d a cada lado (visto por el LD)]. Hecho esto una veces continuó con el pto resorte todo el tiempo o pto musgo y luego resorte, y que quiere decir 2 d a cada lado. Muchas gracias antemano y me encanta lo que hacéis

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 20:44:

Hola Kathy. Primero se trabajan 2 filas en punto musgo. Las 2 filas con punto elástico (2 derechos/2 reveses) se trabajan como sigue: 1 punto orillo, 2 puntos de derecho,*2 reveses, 2 derechos*, repetir de *a* hasta el final de la fila, 1 punto orillo.

Valerie Wiebe 15.01.2019 - 14:31:

Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. Love the cardi.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 103-1

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.