DROPS / 98 / 37

DROPS 98-37 by DROPS Design

DROPS Cape, wrist warmers and hat with cable pattern in Snow

CAPE:
Size: S/M – L – XL/XXL
Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
400-450-500 g color no 01, off-white

DROPS circular needle size 9 mm / US 13 (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') or size needed to obtain the correct gauge.
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WRIST WARMERS:
Size: S/M (L/XL)
Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
100 (150) g color no 01, off-white

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 9 mm / US 13 or size needed to obtain the correct gauge.
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HAT:
Size: one-size
Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
150 g color no 01, off-white

DROPS double pointed needles size 9 mm / US 13 or size needed to obtain the correct gauge.


Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Snow uni colour DROPS Snow uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CAPE:

Knitting gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows on needle size 9 mm / US 13 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Pattern: See diagram M.1 The diagram is showing all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

Garter sts (round on circular needle): knit 1 round, purl 1 round. Repeat these 2 rounds.

Lace border:
1st row: K2, 2 yo, K2
2nd row: K2 sts in first st, K2, P1 (in second yo), K2
3rd row: K7
4th row: bind off 3 sts, K4.

The cape is worked in the round on circular needle from the bottom edge towards the top. Cast on 156-164-172 sts on circular needle size 9 mm / US 13 with Snow.
K 1 round, P 1 round and K 2 rounds, P 1 round and K 1 round.
Continue as follows:
Size S/M: *diagram M.1 (= 34 sts), P5, repeat from *-*.
Size L: *diagram M.1 (= 34 sts), P7*, repeat from *-*.
Size XL/XXL: *diagram M.1 (= 34 sts), P9*, repeat from *-*.
When piece measures 17-19-19 cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-7½" beg dec for shoulder/neck.
Insert a marker at the beg of round and measure from this point onwards.
On 1st round: Dec 2 sts by in each bobble section by K tog the first 2 and the last 2 P sts = 148-156-164 sts.
On 2nd round: dec 1 st in each 3K section by K tog the first 2 sts = 136-144-152 sts.
Now dec as follows:

Size S/M:
3rd round: 2 sts in each bobble section (dec as before) = 128 sts.
4th, 6th, 8th and 10th round: 1 st in each P section with 6P (P tog the first 2 sts).
5th, 7th, 9th, 11th and 13th round: 1 st in each P section with 5P (P tog the first 2 sts). On the 13th round K tog the last P st with next st.
(No dec on the 12th round)
After all dec are complete = 76 sts left on round.

Size L:
3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th 12th and 13th round: 1 st in each P section with 7P (P tog the first 2 sts). On the 13th round K tog the last P st with next st.
4th, 6th, 8th and 10th round: 1 st in each P section with 6P (P tog the first 2 sts).
After all dec are complete = 84 sts left on round.

Size XL/XXL:
3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 11th, 12t, 13th , 14th and 15th round: 1 st in each P section with 9P (P tog the first 2 sts). On the 15th round K tog the last P st with next st.
4th, 6th, 8th and 10th round: 1 st in each P section with 6P (P tog the first 2 sts).
After all dec are complete = 84 sts left on round.

All sizes:
On next round dec by K tog sts 2 by 2 in sections with K4 = 68-76-76 sts.
When piece measures approx 38-40-42 cm / 15"-15 3/4"-16½"– stop after 1 round with bobbles in M.1 – dec 2 sts in each cable as follows: K2 tog, K2, slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso = 60-68-68 sts.
Work 4 rounds in garter sts and bind off loosely.

Lace border:
Cast on 4 sts on needle size 9 mm / US 13 with Snow and work lace border – see above. Bind off when border measures 150-158-166 cm / 59"-62"- measured on the shorter side. Sew border tog to form a ring and sew to bottom edge with the “spikes” pointing downwards.
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WRIST WARMERS:

Knitting gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows on needle size 9 mm / US 13 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Pattern: See diagram M.2 The diagram is seen from the right side.

Lace border:
1st row: K2, 2 yo, K2
2nd row: K2 sts in first st, K2, P1 (in second yo), K2
3rd row: K7
4th row: bind off 3 sts, K4.

Knitted back and forth on needle.
Cast on 20 (24) sts (includes 1 edge st each side, worked in garter sts throughout) on needle size 9 mm / US 13 with Snow.
K3 rows (1st row = RS) and P 3 rows.
Work next row as follows from the RS:
Size S/M: 1 edge st, 6 sts in reverse stockinette sts (P on RS, K on WS), diagram M.2 (= 6 sts), 6 sts in reverse stockinette sts and 1 edge st.
Size L/XL: 1 edge st, 8 sts in reverse stockinette sts (P on RS, K on WS), diagram M.2 (= 6 sts), 8 sts in reverse stockinette sts and 1 edge st.

When piece measures approx 23 (25) cm / 9" (9 3/4") inc 1 st in the 3rd and 5th P st in both P sections = 24 (28) sts – adjust to after 2 or 4 rows after a cable.
K2 rows and bind off loosely from the WS.
Piece measures approx 25 (27) cm / 9 3/4" (10½").

Assembly: Make 2 lace borders, each 18 (22) cm / 7" (8 3/4") long measured on the shorter side (see explanation above).
Sew border tog to form a ring and sew to the bottom edge of wrist warmer.
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HAT:

Knitting gauge: 10 sts x 14 rows on needle size 9 mm / US 13 in stockinette sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Pattern: See diagram M.3 The diagram is showing all rows in patterns seen from the right side.

Garter sts (round on double pointed needles): knit 1 round, purl 1 round. Repeat these 2 rounds.

Knitted in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 52 sts on needle size 9 mm / US 13 in Snow.
K2 rounds, next round K and at the same time inc 20 sts evenly = 72 sts.
Continue as follows: *P4, diagram M.3 (= 8 sts)*, repeat from *-*.
When piece measures 22 cm / 8 3/4'' – stop 2 or 4 rounds after a cable – K2 tog around = 36 sts.
Repeat the dec on next round = 18 sts.
Cut the yarn and pull end through remaining sts and fasten.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= Knit
= Purl
= Bobble: K1, I yo, K1, I yo, K1 in the same st (= 5 sts). Turn. Work 4 rows stockinette sts over these 5 sts. Now lift 2nd st on right needle over first st, 3rd st over first st, 4th st over first st and 5th st over first st = 1 st left.
= Put 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
= Put 4 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K4, K4 from cable needle.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 98-37) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Laura 05.04.2019 - 10:58:

Scusate la mia ignoranza, taglia s/m il 12 giro che non trovo menzionato lo lavoro senza diminuzioni?

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 12:05:

Buongiorno Laura. Sì esatto, nessuna diminuzione al giro 12 della taglia s/m. Buon lavoro!

Laura 04.04.2019 - 14:51:

Buon giorno, taglia s/m al 4 rigo delle diminuzioni le sezioni di sei maglie al rovescio sono anche quelle facenti parte la treccia? Quindi devo diminuire anche subito dopo la treccia? Grazie

DROPS Design 04.04.2019 kl. 16:45:

Buongiorno Laura. Deve diminuire nelle sezioni con originariamente 6 m rovescio, quindi sia prima che dopo la treccia. Il testo è datato e le traduzioni nelle diverse lingue sono leggermente diverse tra loro. Potrebbe essere che per ottenere un risultato migliore debba diminuire nella prima sezione all'inizio della sezione stessa, e nella seconda alla fine. Buon lavoro!

Laura 04.04.2019 - 11:19:

Bonjour pour là taille s/m je voudrai savoir les diminutions du 3rang et dans quelle section?Merci

DROPS Design 04.04.2019 kl. 11:41:

Bonjour Laura, on diminue dans les sections avec nopes seulement (= dans M.1) = on diminue 8 mailles au total (2 m dans chaque section avec nopes), la correction a été faite. Bon tricot!

Laura 04.04.2019 - 09:59:

Buon giorno, piccolo dubbio nelle diminuzioni. Allora nel primo ferro delle diminuzioni devo effettuarle nella sezione del bubbole ma anche nel terzo ferro?

DROPS Design 04.04.2019 kl. 11:46:

Buongiorno Laura. A seconda della taglia diminuisce: per la taglia S/M nella sezione delle noccioline (come fatto in precedenza), per la taglia L, nella sezione con 7 m rovescio; nella taglia più grande, nella sezione con 9 m rovescio. Buon lavoro!

Roxane 18.09.2014 - 16:14:

Bonjour. Voila c'est la 1ere fois que je vais tricoter avec des aiguille circulaire et j'ai une petite question. quand je vais commencé mon 1er rang du diagramme je vais tricoter 4m env puis 8 m end, mais au tour suivant je tricote comment ? Je tricote les mailles comme elle se présentent ou je fait le 2eme rang du diagramme ? Désolé si ma question parait bete. Merci d'avance de votre réponse. Cordialement, Roxane.

DROPS Design 19.09.2014 kl. 09:00:

Bonjour Roxane, en tricotant en rond, vous tricotez ici sur l'endroit - ainsi, à chaque tour, vous allez tricoter les mailles comme elles doivent se présenter sur l'endroit, c'est-à-dire toujours dans M1 (rang 1) 3 m end, 7 m env, 3 m end, 6 m env, 6 m end, 6 m env, 3 m end). Pensez à regarder sous l'onglet "vidéos" pour y découvrir en visuel comment tricoter en rond. Bon tricot!

Drops Design France 26.01.2012 - 10:50:

Tout à fait Sophie, merci, les explications ont été corrigées.

Sophie 26.01.2012 - 10:41:

Mitaine : pour taille L/XL 8 mailles jersey et non 6 après la maille lisière (après les 6 premiers rangs).

Drops Design France 05.01.2009 - 09:23:

Les explications ont été corrigées. Merci pour votre aide Florence et n'hésitez pas à nous informer si vous voyez d'autres erreurs.

Florence 02.01.2009 - 15:43:

Pour la pélerine: Attention à la traduction en français de la partie "A 17-19-19 cm de hauteur totale": les diminutions du 1er tour se font uniquement sur les mailles envers qui entourent la boule et non dans toutes les sections mailles envers... Les erreurs de traduction en français abondent pour beaucoup de modèles! dommage pour ceux qui ne parlent pas anglais...

DROPS / Lena 20.11.2007 - 17:18:

I stl Small/Medium lägger du upp 156 maskor och stickar *M.1(=34m), 5am* 164 maskor gäller för storlek Large, mitten storleken, och då stickar man * M.1 (= 34 m), 7 am *.

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