DROPS / 96 / 9

DROPS 96-9 by DROPS Design

DROPS Dress with long or short sleeves in cable pattern in Alpaca

  • DROPS 96-9 - DROPS Dress with long or short sleeves in cable pattern in Alpaca
Size: S – M – L – XL – XXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-84-92-104-114 cm = 31 1/2”-33”-36 1/4”-36 1/4”-41”-45”
Full length: 77-80-83-86-89 cm = 30 3/8”-31 1/2”-32 3/4”-33 7/8”-35”

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
Short sleeves:
450-500-550-600-650 g color no 501, light grey
Long sleeves:
600-650-700-800-850 g color no 501, light grey

DROPS circular and double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9 – or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting gauge

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Alpaca
from 5.30 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 5.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 5.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 47.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting Gauge: 16 stitches x 20 rows on needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 and double thread in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”

Pattern: see diagram M.1. The diagram is seen from the right side.

Decreasing tips (applies to sides): Dec on both sides of the marking threads at the sides (start 3 sts before the marking thread): P2 tog, P2 (the marking thread is between these 2 sts), P2 into back of st.

Knitting tips: If you prefer not to have bobbles on the back piece replace 1 bobble with P1.

DRESS
Read the entire pattern before you begin! The dress is knitted round on circular needles, the rounds starting at the side.
Cast on 152-168-180-208-220 sts on circular needle size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 2 threads Alpaca. Insert a marking thread each side (= 76-84-90-104-110 sts between marking threads). Knit Rib as follows:
Size S + L + XL: K1, P4, *K3, P4*, repeat from *-* until there is1 st left before 1st marking thread, K1. Knit the same way towards 2nd marking thread.
Size M: P2, *K3, P4*, repeat from *-* until there are 5 sts left before 1st marking thread, K3, P2. Knit the same way towards 2nd marking thread.
Size XXL: P1, *K3, P4*, repeat from *-* until there are 4 sts left before 1st marking thread, K3, P1. Knit the same way towards 2nd marking thread.
Continue until piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Now knit 1 round, purl 1 round whilst inc 7-7-9-9-11 sts evenly over the middle 44 sts at front and back = 166-182-198-226-242 sts, knit 1 round.
Continue as follows:
Size S: P5, K3, P4, K3, M.1 (= 53 sts), K3, P4, K3, P10, K3, P4, K3, M.1 (= 53 sts), K3, P4, K3, P5. Continue pattern like this.
Size M: P9, K3, P4, K3, M.1 (= 53 sts), K3, P4, K3, P18, K3, P4, K3, M.1 (= 53 sts), K3, P4, K3, P9. Continue pattern like this.
Size L: P12, K3, P4, K3, P1, M.1 (= 53 sts), P1, K3, P4, K3, P24, K3, P4, K3, P1, M.1 (= 53 sts), P1, K3, P4, K3, P12. Continue pattern like this.
Size XL: P12, K3, P4, K3, P4, K3, P1, M.1 (= 53 sts), P1, K3, P4, K3, P4, K3, P24, K3, P4, K3, P4, K3, P1, M.1 (= 53 sts), P1, K3, P4, K3, P4, K3, P12. Continue pattern like this.
Size XXL: P15, K3, P4, K3, P4, K3, P2, M.1 (= 53 sts), P2, K3, P4, K3, P4, K3, P30, K3, P4, K3, P4, K3, P2, M.1 (= 53 sts), P2, K3, P4, K3, P4, K3, P15. Continue pattern like this.
At the same time all sizes: When piece measures 8-8-7-7-7 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/8”-2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 3/4” dec 1 st on both sides of each marking thread on every 8-5.5-5-4-4 cm = 3 1/8”-2 1/8”-2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2” a total of 5-7-8-10-10 times = 146-154-166-186-202 sts – read decreasing tips. Continue in M.1 as before, knit all other sts K over K and P over P. When piece measures 59-61-63-65-67 cm = 23 1/4”-24”-24 3/4”-25 1/2”-26 3/8” knit next round as follows:
Bind off 3-3-3-6-6 sts for armhole, knit the next 67-71-77-81-89 sts, bind off 6-6-6-12-12 sts for armhole, knit the next 67-71-77-81-89 sts and bind off remaining 3-3-3-6-6 sts. Now finish each piece separately.

Front piece: = 67-71-77-81-89 sts. Dec for armhole each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-2-2-2-3 times and 1 st 1-1-3-2-3 times = 61-61-63-63-65 sts. When piece measures 71-74-76-79-82 cm = 28”-29 1/8”-30”-31”-32 1/4” – make sure to knit 1 or 3 rows after a twist on the cable center front – dec 2 sts in each cable mid front as follows: K2 tog, K2, K2 tog into back of st (knit remaining sts K over K and P over P). On next row bind off the middle 15-15-17-17-19 sts for neck. Dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 17 sts left on each shoulder. Continue until piece measures 77-80-83-86-89 cm = 30 3/8”-31 1/2”-32 3/4”-33 7/8”-35” and bind off.

Back piece: = 67-71-77-81-89 sts. Bind off for armhole as described for front piece = 61-61-63-63-65 sts. When piece measures 75-78-81-84-87 cm = 29 1/2”-30 3/4”-32”-33”-34 1/4” dec 2 sts in each cable mid back as described for front piece. On next row bind off the middle 21-21-23-23-25 sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline: 1 st 1 time = 17 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 77-80-83-86-89 cm = 30 3/8”-31 1/2”-32 3/4”-33 7/8”-35”.

Short sleeves: The sleeves are knitted round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 45-49-53-56-62 sts on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 2 threads Alpaca. Insert a marking thread at beginning of round and knit Rib as follows:
Size S: *K3, P4*, repeat from *-* and finish with K3.
Size M + XL: P2, *K3, P4*, repeat from *-* and finish with K3 and P2.
Size L: *P4, K3*, repeat from *-* and finish with P4.
Size XXL: P5, *K3, P4*, repeat from *-* and finish with K3, P5.
When piece measures 5-5-6-6-7 cm = 2”-2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2 3/4” bind off 6-6-6-12-12 sts mid under arm (i.e. 3-3-3-6-6 sts on each side of marking thread). Now dec for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 2 sts 2-3-3-3-3 times, 1 st 2-2-2-2-3 times and 2 sts each side until sleeve measures 13-13-15-17-19 cm = 5 1/8”-5 1/8”-6”-6 3/4”-7 1/2”. Now dec 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts when sleeve measures approx 14-14-16-18-20 cm = 5 1/2”-5 1/2”-6 1/4”-7”-8”.

Long sleeves: The sleeves are knitted round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 37-39-39-42-42 sts on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 2 threads Alpaca. Insert a marking thread at beginning of round and knit Rib as follows:
Size S: P3, *K3, P4*, repeat from *-* and finish with K3, P4.
Size M + L*P4, K3*, repeat from *-* and finish with P4.
Size XL + XXL: P2, *K3, P4*, repeat from *-* and finish with K3, P2.
Continue in Rib until piece measures 10 cm = 4”. Now inc 2 sts mid under arm (i.e. 1 st on each side of the marking thread) on every 12-9-6-6-4 cm = 4 3/4”-3 1/2”-2 3/8”-2 3/8”-1 1/2” a total of 4-5-7-7-10 times = 45-49-53-56-62 sts. Incorporate the new sts in the Rib as you go along, after all inc are complete there will be: Size S: K6, Size M: P4, Size L: P8, Size XL: P4 and Size XXL P10 mid under arm. The marking thread will be in the middle of these sts. When piece measures 49-50-50-49-48 cm = 19 1/4”-19 3/4”-19 3/4”-19 1/4”-19” dec 6-6-6-12-12 mid under arm (i.e. 3-3-3-6-6 sts on each side of the marking thread) and dec for sleeve cap each side on every other row as follows: 2 sts 2-3-3-3-3 times, 1 st 2-2-2-2-3 times and 2 sts each side until sleeve measures 57-58-59-60-60 cm = 22 1/2”-22 3/4”-23 1/4”-23 5/8”-23 5/8”. Now dec 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts when sleeve measures approx 58-59-60-61-61 cm = 22 3/4”-23 1/4”-23 5/8”-24”-24”.

Assembly: Join shoulders and sew in sleeves inside 1 edge st.
Neck: Pick up approx 63 – 77 sts (divisible by 7) round the neck on double pointed needles size 5.5 mm = US 9 with 2 threads Alpaca. Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and continue n Rib *K3, P4* - make sure there is either K3 or P4 mid front. When neck measures 8 cm = 3 1/8” bind off in Rib.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = Bobble: Work 5 sts in the same st as follows: K1, yo, K1, yo, K1, turn the piece, knit 4 rows stocking sts on these 5 sts. Now lift 2nd st on right needle over 1st st, 3rd st over 1st st, 4th st over 1st st and 5th st over 1st st = 1 st left.
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K3, P1 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P1, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 96-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (54)

country flag Milsa 05.07.2018 - 17:34:

En Talla L Dice montar 180 puntos, luego de terminar el punto elástico y después de 3 cm indica aumentar para dicha talla 9 puntos, indica como resultado ¿198 ptos? , hay error de tipeo? puesto que 180 + 9=189 cierto?

user icon DROPS Design 08.07.2018 kl. 17:35:

Hola Milsa. No hay error. Son 9 puntos repartidos sobre los 44 puntos centrales del delantero y 9 puntos repartidos sobre los 44 puntos centrales de la espalda = un total de 18 puntos más 180 = 198 puntos.

country flag Milsa 01.07.2018 - 20:27:

Cuando dice: "1d, 4r, * 3d, 4r *, repetir de *a* hasta tener 1 pt restante antes del 1er MP, 1d. Tejer de la misma manera hacia el 2º MP", al terminar ésta línea da la impresión que falta o sobra 1 pto, porque no resulta exacto el patrón en elástico Podría verificar por favor?

user icon DROPS Design 08.07.2018 kl. 18:24:

Hola Milsa. El patrón es correcto. El delantero (entre el marcapuntos 1 y el marcapuntos 2) se trabaja como sigue: 1d., 4 r., repetir *3d., 4 r.* un total de 12 veces y 1 derecho = 90 puntos ( la mitad de la labor). La espalda se trabaja de la misma manera.

country flag Helene Tind 03.01.2018 - 10:40:

Kald den "dream bobbel"

country flag Florwena 10.10.2016 - 10:09:

Nach 3 cm 1 R. re. 1 R. li. und 1 R. re. Auf der linken Seite über den mittleren 44 M. am Vord- und Rückenteil je 7-7-9-9-11 M. aufnehmen = 166-182-198-226-242 m. Wie ist das gemeint? Auf welcher linken Seite soll ich zunehmen?

user icon DROPS Design 10.10.2016 kl. 10:17:

Liebe Frau Florwena, diese Aufnahmen solle bei der R. li. gestrickt, dh, nach 3 cm 1 R. re, 1 R. li. mit gleichmässig verteilt Aufnahme, und 1. R. re. stricken.

country flag DROPS Design NL 30.01.2009 - 10:38:

Beste Elly. De mouw wordt in het rond gebreid. U meerdert in het midden van de ondermouw (dwz, aan weerskanten van de eerste st op de nld). Brei deze nieuwe st gaandeweg mee in de boordsteek, zodat deze passen met de boordsteek op de panden. Dwz, op maat S: 6 r, Maat M, 4 av enz. Gr. Tine

country flag Elly 29.01.2009 - 15:47:

Alinea "Lange mouwen":....Brei de nieuwe st mee....voltooid zijn:Maat S:6 r .... op het midden ondermouw..... ". Kunt U svp nader toelichten hoe ik dit moet lezen?

country flag Drops Design 20.01.2009 - 08:05:

Ja du strikker die 4 siste omg over fletten mens du starter med resten av mønstertet om igjen.

country flag Elin 19.01.2009 - 18:05:

Skjønner ikke helt m1 på denne kjolen?Hvordan skal man strikke de 4 siste omg på den? Skal de strikkes? Synes mønstret er utydelig der.

country flag yaguel 12.10.2006 - 21:18:

Marion, d'après le peu que j'ai compris, la robe se tricote en circulaire. Au bout de 3 cm, selon les tailles choisies, il faut tricoter, pour la taille S(par exemple) : P5, K3, P4, K3, M.1. D'après le diagramme, en bas du patron, le diagramme fait 53 mailles. Donc, je comprends : 5 mailles envers, 3 mailles endroit, 4 mailles envers, 3 mailles endroit, et le diagramme M1 qui représente 53 mailles. Mais mon anglais est approximatif, peut-être me trompé-je !

Marion 12.10.2006 - 17:10:

Actually I think I get it ! LOL Yaquel si je le reussis je pourrai te le traduire en francais.

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