Little Fern by DROPS Design

Set of pants and jacket in garter stitch in DROPS Alpaca. Sizes baby and children from 1 month to 4 years.

DROPS Baby 14-27
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 – 3/4 years)
Width at chest: 46-52-60 (64-70) cm / 18-20½-23 5/8 (25 1/4-27½) inch
Full length: 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10 5/8-11 3/8-13 (14½-15 3/4)

Full length: 36-42-46 (52-58) cm / 14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-22 3/4")

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio

Jacket: 100-100-100 (150-150) g color no 7300, lime
50-100-100 (100-100) g color no 7120, light mint
DROPS wooden button, no 503, 3 pcs

Trousers: 150-150-200 (200-250) g color no 7120, light mint
Approx 50-60 cm / 19½-23½ inch elastic for waist

DROPS pointed needle size 2.5 mm / US 1


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 4.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Knitting gauge: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5 mm / US 1 in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Garter sts: Knit all rows

Knitting tips: Every time you turn the piece, slip 1 st after turning and tighten thread before continuing. Do this to avoid holes in transitions.

Start on left front, knit towards the sleeve, the back, the other sleeve and finish with right front.
Loosely cast on 70-76-86 (96-104) sts with light mint on needle size 2.5/US 1 and knit 10 rows garter sts (= front band, 1st row = right side). Continue as follows – read Knitting tips: *2 rows garter sts over the first 46-50-57 (65-70) sts with lime (i.e. knit from right side over the first 46-50-57 (65-70) sts, turn the piece and knit back), 2 rows garter sts over the first 64-70-80 (90-98) sts with lime, 2 rows garter sts over all 70-76-86 (96-104) sts with light mint*, repeat from *-* until piece measures 16-18-19 (20.5-22) cm / 6 1/4"-7"-7½" (8 1/8"-8 3/4") from cast-on row (measured where widest).
Now put the outermost 41-45-52 (60-65) sts towards lower edge on a thread (= side) and cast on 36-42-46 (60-70) new sts on beginning of row for sleeve, before continuing as follows:
*2 rows garter sts over the first 41-47-51 (65-75) sts with lime, 2 rows garter sts over the first 59-67-74 (90-103) sts with lime, 2 rows garter sts over all 65-73-80 (96-109) sts with light mint. When piece measures 16-17-18 (18-20) cm / 6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7" (7"-8") from sts cast on for sleeve (measured where widest), bind off the outermost 36-42-46 (60-70) sts towards lower edge of sleeve. Put the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from thread back on needle and insert a marker in piece. Now knit from *-* as described for front piece.
When piece measures 28-31-35 (37-40) cm / 11"-12 1/4"-13 3/4" (14½"-15 3/4") from marker (measured where widest), put the outermost 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from lower edge on a thread (= side).
Cast on 36-42-46 (60-70) new sts for sleeve and knit as before from *-* as described for the other sleeve until you have knitted as many rows as on the other sleeve.
Bind off the outermost 36-42-46 (60-70) sts towards lower edge of sleeve and put the 41-45-52 (60-65) sts from thread back on needle and continue as before until you have knitted as many rows as on the other front piece. Change to light mint and knit front band as follows: Knit 4 rows garter sts over all sts, on next row make 3 button holes as follows from the right side (i.e. from lower edge towards the top): knit 43-47-55 (63-67) garter sts, yo, K2 tog, knit 10-11-12 (13-15) garter sts, yo, K2 tog, knit 10-11-12 (13-15) sts, yo, K2 tog and finish with K1. Turn and knit garter sts over all sts.
Now knit 4 rows garter sts over all sts and bind off loosely.

Sew the openings under the arms.
Neck: Pick up 1 st in every other row round the neck using needle size 2.5/US 1 and light mint = approx 88-95-102 (106-113) sts. Knit 3 rows garter sts (1st row = wrong side), at the same time, adjusting number of sts evenly on first row to 62-64-66 (70-72).
Bind off in rib, K1, P1.
Sew on buttons.


Right leg:
Cast on 52-60-64 (70-74) sts (incl 1 edge st each side) using needle size 2.5/US 1 and light mint and knit garter sts. Insert a marker when piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' (= turn-up) and measure piece from here.
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' inc 1 st each side on every 1.5-2-2.5 (3-4) cm / ½"-3/4"-1" a total of 8 times = 68-76-80 (86-90) sts.
When piece measures 18-21-24 (29-34) cm / 7"-8 1/4"-9½" (11 3/8"-13 3/8"), bind off 2 sts each side. Now dec 1 st on one side of piece (= towards mid front) on every other row a total of 2-4-6 (10-12) times = 62-68-70 (72-74) sts.
Continue in garter sts until piece measures 36-42-46 (52-58) cm / 14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-22 3/4") from marker. Now knit 2 cm / 3/4'' stockinette sts and bind off loosely.

Left leg:
As right leg, but mirrored.

Fold right leg double and sew inner leg seam within 1 edge st – note! On the lower 4 cm / 1½'' (turn-up) sew with seam on the right side so that it doesn’t show when you turn it. Sew left leg in the same way. Sew together the trousers front and back within 1 edge st and sew the opening between the legs. Turn the 2 cm / 3/4'' stockinette sts at the top against the wrong side and sew with small, neat sts – leave a little opening for the elastic band. Turn the turn-ups.

SOFT TOY: see baby pattern no 14-30

BLANKET: see baby pattern no 14-12


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 14-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (65)

country flag Kerstin wrote:

Hej! Tröjan Little Fern är klar och nu fattas bara halskanten. Kan inte förstå beskrivningen: \\\\\\\"sticka upp \\\\\\\" Menar man \\\\\\\"ta upp\\\\\\\" 1m i vartannat v runt halsen? Jag stickar i strl 6/9 mån. Nu har jag 90m i halsringningen. Då kan jag ju omöjligt få 95 m om jag skall ta upp 1 m i vartannat v. Jag förstår ingenting. Tacksam för hjälp!

03.08.2022 - 18:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Kerstin, ja du strikker 95 masker op rundt i halsen. Se gerne vores video hvordan man strikker op :)

05.08.2022 kl. 14:20

country flag Monica Ferrone wrote:

Por favor hay videos de tejido, quiero aprender pero es dificil para mi con utilizando solo lectura, con videos es mucho mas facil. Desde ya muchas gracias y espero sepan comprender, me encantan sus tejidos. felicitaciones. saludos desde argentina

18.05.2022 - 08:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Monica, puedes encontrar todos los vídeos relevantes para realizar esta labor debajo de las instrucciones del patrón y los diagramas.

22.05.2022 kl. 22:57

country flag Elise Rikkers wrote:

Ik heb een vraag over het patroon voor 2 jaar. De mouwinzet/wijdte mouw bij de oksel is veel te nauw. Ik heb de mouw zelf breder gebreid, dus geen 18 cm maar 20 cm maar dit lost het probleem niet op, hij blijft te nauw. De mouw is goed maar de inzet niet. Kan ik dit oplossen? of moet ik alles uithalen en minder steken dan 60 op de pas (zijkant) laten (waardoor de mouw lager begint). Ik hoop dat mijn vraag duidelijk is. Ik zou erg geholpen zijn met een reactie.

19.04.2022 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Elise,

Wat vervelend dat het te krap is. Om meer ruimte bij de oksel te maken, moet je inderdaad minder steken op een hulpdraad zetten. Op deze manier heb je meer steken aan de kant van de pas en wordt het armsgat groter. Het aantal op te zetten steken voor de mouw verminder je dan ook met het aantal steken dat je minder op de hulpdraad hebt gezet. Dus als je bijvoorbeeld 55 steken op een hulpdraad zet in plaats van de aangegeven 60 steken, dan zet je ook 5 steken minder op voor de mouw.

20.04.2022 kl. 10:40

country flag Mickan wrote:

Hej , jag har löst min fråga så den behöver ni inte svara på. Men jag undrar om det finns någon video på hur man syr sömmen under ärmarna kant i kant med små fina stygn, jag antar att den ska bli nätt och inte så klumpig.

04.03.2021 - 16:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mickan, Ja vi har flere monteringsvideoer, vælg den som passer dig bedst montering sy ihop

05.03.2021 kl. 09:03

country flag Lisbet Sortkjær wrote:

I opskriften står at man skal bruge garn nr. 7300 Lime og nr. 7120 Lys mint, men de farver kan jeg ikke se findes i farvekortene for Drops Alpaca

30.12.2020 - 22:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Lisbet, de er desværre udgået, men vi har mange nye farver - se her: Alpaca Farvekort

07.01.2021 kl. 14:10

country flag Kim wrote:

My first time knitting newborn sweater. I’m confused about taking the stitches off the thread and knitting the other front panel? It seems like that should be the neck? There are only 41 stitches on the thread on that side? I don’t know what I did wrong?🤷🏽‍♀️

14.08.2020 - 05:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kim, first row from RS is worked from the bottom edge of the jacket towards the neck, this means, the short rows are started from RS = there are more rows towards the bottom of the jacket - you then slip the first 41 sts at the beg of the next row from RS = the stitches for the side (will be worked later) and cast on 32 sts for the sleeve. Work the sleeve, then cast off the 32 sts and work the 41 sts back for back piece. Happy knitting!

14.08.2020 kl. 07:33

country flag Nunzia wrote:

J'ai un problème (malgré l'astuce tricot) , il se forme un trou en tournant l'ouvrage même en glissant la 1 ère maille et en tirant le fil ...ça ne marche pas ! Y a t-il une autre technique pour éviter cela ? Merci

23.03.2020 - 17:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nunzia, retrouvez l'astuce tricot ici en vidéo ou bien essayez la méthode des mailles enveloppées. Bon tricot!

24.03.2020 kl. 09:37

country flag Isa wrote:

Peut- on faire ce modèle avec une seule couleur ? Si oui ,les explications sont elles les mêmes ? Merci

14.03.2020 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isa, tout à fait, toutefois, veillez à bien tricoter le même nombre de rangs, quand on dit de tricoter 2 rangs en vert gris clair par ex, pensez à bien les tricoter dans votre couleur de fond sinon le modèle sera beaucoup trop court. Bon tricot!

16.03.2020 kl. 09:50

country flag Nina wrote:

Hej! Ska det verkligen vara 100 gram av lime och 50 gram av ljusmint i minsta storleken? Det ser ju ut som det är mer ljusmint i tröjan, kanter osv. Borde vara 100 gram a det snarare. Vet ni hur mycket garn det går åt om man använder bara en färg? Mvh Nina

11.01.2020 - 22:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Det finns dessvärre inga uppgifter om garnåtgången om den stickas enfärgad. Vi har inte fått några kommentarer om att garnet inte skulle räcka så det bör stämma (det är 2 varv lime och 1 varv mint på stor del av tröjan) Lycka till!

29.01.2020 kl. 11:18

country flag Carina Eurell wrote:

Förstår inte riktigt när ARB mäter 16cm ska jag då sätta maskorna på den smalaste sidan på en tråd eller den bredast sidan hoppas ni förstår hur jag menar

02.11.2019 - 14:05

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Carina. Du setter 41-45-52 (60-65) masker mot nederkant (der det er bredest/nederst på jakken) på 1 tråd. Deretter legger du opp 36-42-46 (60-70) nye masker på begynnelsen av pinnen (øverst) til erme før det fortsettes (nå strikkes første erme). God Fornøyelse!

04.11.2019 kl. 11:32

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