DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
DROPS Baby 13-9
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 –3/4 years)

Finished measurements:
Bust: 50-56-62 (68-74) cm / 19¾"-22"-24⅜" (26¾"-29⅛")
Full length: 27-29-33 (37-40) cm / 10⅝"-11⅜"-13" (14½"-15¾")

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
Jacket: color no 6205, light blue
200-200-250 (250-300) g
(= 4-4-5 (5-6) skeins)

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8
DROPS wooden button no 501: 2 pcs

Socks: 100g (2 skeins) all sizes color no 6205, light blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GAUGE:
Jacket: 17 sts x 34 rows with 2 strands of Alpaca on needle size 5 mm / US 8 in garter sts = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
Socks: 17 sts x 22 rows with 2 strands of Alpaca on needle size 5 mm / US 8 in rib = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4"

Garter sts: Knit all rows

Increasing tips (applies to neck): Inc by making a yo within 2 edge sts. On next row knit into back of yo to avoid making a hole.

Decreasing tips (applies to neckline): Dec within 2 edge sts as follows:
From the right side: After 2 edge sts: K2 tog. Before 2 edge sts: K2 tog into back of st
From the wrong side: After 2 edge sts: K2 tog into back of st. Before 2 edge sts: K2 tog

Buttonhole: Make buttonholes on right front band from the wrong side when piece measures approx 6-7-8 (9-10) cm / 2⅜"-2¾"-3⅛" (3½"-4") from marker. Buttonhole: K4, K2 tog, make a yo, K 5-5-6 (7-8), K2 tog, make a yo and knit remaining sts. Knit yo’s on next row.

JACKET: Knitted from side to side, starting with right sleeve.

Right sleeve: With 2 strands Alpaca and needle size 5 mm / US 8 loosely cast on 26-28-28 (30-30) sts (= right sleeve cuff) . Work in garter sts.
When piece measures 5 cm / 2" on next row inc 1 st each side, repeat inc on every 2 cm / ¾" a total of 6-6-8 (9-10) times = 38-40-44 (48-52) sts.
When piece measures 17-18-20 (24-28) cm / 6¾"-7"-7½" (9½"-11") (sleeve is now finished), loosely cast on 27-29-34 (39-42) sts at the beginning and end of row for front and back pieces = 92-98-112 (126-136) sts.
Continue back and forth in garter st until piece measures 9-10-11 (12-13) cm / 3½"-4"-4⅜" (4¾"-5⅛") from where it was cast on for front and back pieces (piece measures a total of 26-28-31 (36-41) cm / 10¼"-11"-12¼" (14¼"-16⅛") from sleeve edge).
Work next row as follows starting from RS: Knit the first 45-49-56 (63-68) sts (= front piece), put the remaining 46-49-56 (63-68) sts on a stitch holder (= back piece).
Insert a marker and from now on measure piece from here.
Turn the piece and bind off the first 8-8-8 (9-9) sts for neck.
Now continue dec towards neckline – see Decreasing tips above:
Dec 1 st on every row 0-0-4 (6-6) times, then 1 st on every other row 14-15-15 (16-17) times = 24-26-29 (32-36) sts left on row – remember buttonhole, see explanation above. After the last dec, knit 1 more row and than bind off.

Back piece: Put the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from stitch holder back on needle and work garter sts until piece measures 7-8-9 (10-11) cm / 2¾"-3⅛"-3½" (4"-4⅜") from the marker at neckline. Put the piece aside and knit left front.

Left front piece: Loosely cast on 24-26-29 (32-36) with 2 strands Alpaca on needle size 5 mm / US 8. Knit garter sts, at the same time inc for neckline at left side of piece (seen from the right side) – see Increasing tips.
Inc 1 st on every other row 14-15-15 (16-17) times and then 1 st on every row 0-0-4 (6-6) times. Now cast on 8-8-8 (9-9) sts at the end of row at the same side as the inc were made = 46-49-56 (63-68) sts.
Put the 46-49-56 (63-68) sts from back piece on needle = 92-98-112 (126-136) sts on row. Insert a new marker and from now on measure piece from here. Continue until piece measures 9-10-11 (12-13) cm / 3½"-4"-4⅜" (4¾"-5⅛") form the marker. Loosely cast of 27-29-34 (39-42) sts in the beginning of next 2 rows = 38-40-44 (48-52) sts left on row for left sleeve.

Left sleeve: Continue in garter sts. When piece measures 2-3-1 (3-3) cm / ¾"-1⅛"-⅜" (1⅛"-1⅛") dec 1 st each side (K first an last 2 sts tog) on every 2 cm / ¾" a total of 6-6-8 (9-11) times = 26-28-28 (30-30) sts.
Bind off loosely when sleeve measures 17-18-20 (24-28) cm / 6¾"-7"-7½" (9½"-11") (piece measures approx 59-64-71 (82-93) cm / 23¼"-25¼"-28" (32¼"-36⅝") from sleeve edge to sleeve edge).

Assembly: Fold piece double at shoulders and sew sleeve and side seams each side in outer loops of sts. Sew on buttons.
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SOCKS:
Foot length: approx 10-11-12 (14-15) cm / 4"-4⅜"-4¾" (5½"-6")

Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

Cast on 28-32-36 (40-44) sts with 2 strands of Alpaca and double pointed needles size 5 mm/US 8.
Work 6-6-7 (8-8) cm / 2⅜"-2⅜"-2¾" (3⅛"-3⅛") rib.
Now work 1 round, shifting the rib 1 st to the left as follows: over (K2, P2) it will be (P1, K2, P1).
Then *work 3 rounds with K over K and P over P, on 4th round shift the rib 1 st to the left*, repeat from *-* until piece measures 25-26-27 (29-30) cm / 9¾"-10¼"-10⅝" (11⅜"-11¾").
On next round P tog all the purled sts 2 and 2 around.
Then work 2 rounds with K over K and P over P, then work 1 round where all knitted sts K tog 2 and 2.
Work 2 rounds with K over K and P over P and then K2 tog around = 7-8-9 (10-11) sts.
Cut the yarn and pull through the remaining sts and fasten.
The sock measures approx 28-29-30 (32-33) cm / 11"-11⅜"-11¾" (12½"-13").

SOFT TOYS: see pattern baby 13-8
BLANKET: see pattern baby 13-19

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Mab wrote:

Je ne comprends pas bien dans les explication manche droite 1) les explications pour les diminutions, un rang c'est une côte point mousse ? = 2 rang point mousse ? sinon quand on fait tous les rangs ça fait bizarre 2) je ne comprend pas où faire les boutonnières ? coté encolure ou on fait les diminutions ou de l'autre coté ?c'est quoi où le long de la bordure ? merci pour votre aide

09.01.2021 - 21:42

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mab, 1 rang = 1 rang tricoté sur toutes les mailles sur l'aiguille, vous allez diminuer pour l'encolure du devant soit en début de rang sur l'envers soit en fin de rang sur l'endroit (4 ou 6 fois selon la taille) tous les rangs, autrement dit les diminutions doivent être tricotées côté mailles en attente pour le dos. Quand vous diminuez tous les 2 rangs, faites ces diminutions sur l'endroit (sur l'envers, tricotez les mailles simplement à l'endroit). Bon tricot!

11.01.2021 - 08:45

country flag Carola wrote:

Jag förstår inte vänster framstycke. Om jag sätter tillbaka maskorna från bakstycket får jag garnnystanet mitt i arbetet?

10.07.2020 - 23:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Carola. Når du har økt til omslaget/halsringningen i venstre side og har lagt opp 8-8-8 (9-9) masker på slutten av pinnen (du har nå garnnøstet på slutten av disse nye maskene) så kan du enten klippe tråden, sette maskene fra bakstykket inn på samme pinne og når du starter å strikke bruker du nøstet fra bakstykket (om du fremdeles har nøstet der) eller så kan du strikke maskene på bakstykket istedenfor bare sette de på samme pinne som venstre forstykket. God Fornøyelse!

13.07.2020 - 10:18

country flag Roos wrote:

Ik snap deze omschrijving niet: “Kant vervolgens aan de halskant af als volgt: -zie de tips voor het minderen: In elke nld: 0-0-4 (6-6) x 1 st, en dan in elke 2e nld: 14-15-15 (16-17) x 1 st = 24-26-29 (32-36) st op de nld” Ik gebruik de maat 12-18 maanden. Kunt u dit per naald uitleggen?

06.12.2018 - 13:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Roos,

Omdat je maat 12/18 mnd breit, neem je steeds het derde getal in de reeks, dus als er staat 0-0-4 (6-6) x 1 st, minder je 4 keer een steek. In elke naald dus 1 steek en dat doe je 4 keer. Daarna doe je de minderingen om de naald 15 keer.

09.12.2018 - 17:12

country flag Delphine Dandois wrote:

Bonjour, Faut il tricoter avec deux fils en même temps car j'ai à peine fini la première manche et il ne me reste plus que deux pelotes. Je fais le modèle 3/4 ans et j'ai pris 6 pelotes en tout. Faut-il doubler le nombre pour tricoter avec deux fils en même temps? Merci d'avance

14.05.2016 - 15:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Dandois, la veste se tricote entièrement avec 2 fils Alpaca, sur la base de 17 m x 34 rangs point mousse = 10 x 10 cm. Pensez à bien vérifier votre échantillon. Bon tricot!

17.05.2016 - 09:17

country flag Melanie wrote:

Hallo, Kunnen jullie antwoord geven op mijn vorige vraag, ik zo helaas niet verder :-). Hartelijk dank.

13.03.2014 - 09:36

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Melanie. Ik antwoord zo snel dat ik kan, maar in drukke periodes kan je langer wachttijd verwachten. Kan je niet wachten, dan mag je altijd ook bij je DROPS winkel vragen of in een ander handwerkforum ;-)

13.03.2014 - 12:44

country flag Melanie wrote:

Hallo! In het patroon dat ik aan het breien ben staat dat ik zowel aan het begin als aan het einde van de naald steken op de naald erbij moet zetten. In deze video staat geloof ik alleen het begin van de naald, hoe doe je dit aan de andere kant van het werk?

11.03.2014 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Melanie. Naald 1: zet de st op en brei de nld uit. Keer het werk en zet de st op aan het begin van de tweede naald. Gaat het om meerderen van 1 st aan beide kanten, kan je ook 1 omslag maken of 1 st ophalen van de vorige nld aan beide zijkanten net na de eerste / laatste st op de nld.

13.03.2014 - 17:12

country flag Melanie wrote:

Hallo, In het patroon moet ik bij de mouw aan weerskanten 1 steek meerderen op elke 2 cm aan weerskanten. Bedoelen jullie aan weerskanten van elke naald of aan weerskanten van het werk, dus 1 steek meerderen op elke naald?

09.03.2014 - 21:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Melanie. Je moet meerderen aan beide kanten van het werk. Je kan het op beide manieren doen; aan het begin van elke nld - of aan het begin en einde van de nld.

10.03.2014 - 12:40

country flag Savigny wrote:

Quelques erreurs que j'ai relevé dans ce modèle: -il n'y a pas les explications pour les augmentations -les diminutions côté encolure: marqué (X)fois tous les 2 rangs puis (X)fois tous les rangs. je pense que c'est l'inverse. d’abord tous les rangs et ensuite tous les 2 rangs (sinon ça ne marche pas) -manche gauche au début c'est marqué augmenter 1m. ... c'est diminuer! malgré tout ça reste un modèle très joli!

03.02.2014 - 18:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Savigny, ces erreurs ont été corrigées, merci. Bon tricot!

04.02.2014 - 09:48

Lena wrote:

Lätt att sticka, bekväm att bära, skön att se på!

14.03.2006 - 20:47

country flag Gry Holte wrote:

Prakrisk jakke og enkel

14.03.2006 - 11:38