DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g
DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00$. Read more.

Summer Glow

DROPS Jacket with cables and bobbles in “Muskat” or “Safran”. Long or short version. Size S-L.

DROPS 34-5
DROPS Retro 1980-1993

Size: S/M – M/L
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 116-124 cm = 45 3/4”-48 3/4”
Full length: 74-76 cm = 29 1/8”-30”

All measurements in charts are in cm.
Materials: DROPS Muskat from Garnstudio
750-800 g color no 30, yellow

Or use: DROPS Safran from Garnstudio
500-550 g color no 11, strong yellow

Numbers in ( ) refer to Safran
DROPS circular needle and double pointed needles size 3 (3) and 4 (3.5) mm = US 2,5 (2,5) and 6 (4), or size needed to get 20 sts x 26 rows (23 sts x 30 rows) in stockinette st on needle size 4 (3.5) = US 6 (4) = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
DROPS buttons, 6 pcs.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 2.80 $ /50g
DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 2.05 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Pattern: See diagram. The diagram is seen from the RS.

Bobble: Worked from RS. Inc to 4 (5) sts in 1 st, work 3 (5) rows stockinette st back and forth on these sts, on next row K tog all sts.
Moss st: Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*. Row: K over P and P over K. Repeat row 2.

Buttonhole: Bind off 3rd (3rd and 4th) st from mid front and cast on 1 (2) new sts on return row. Make buttonholes when piece measures: 1-1 (1-1), 9.5-10 (9.5-10), 19.5-20 (19.5-20), 29.5-30 (29.5-30), 39.5-40 (39.5-40 and 49-51 (49-51) cm = 3/8”-3/8” (3/8”-3/8”), 3 3/4”-4” (3 3/4”-4”), 7 3/4”-8” (7 3/4”-8”), 11 1/2”-11 3/4” (11 1/2”-11 3/4”), 15 1/2”-15 3/4” (15 1/2”-15 3/4”) and 19 1/4”-20” (19 1/4”-20”).

Short version: Cast on 18 less sts and inc 18 additional sts after the first 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Dec all measurements by 14 cm = 5 1/2”. Finished length = 60-62 (60-62) cm = 23 5/8”-24 3/8” (23 5/8”-24 3/8”). Decease materials by 100 g.

Body piece: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Numbers in ( ) refer to Safran. Cast on 213-222 (249-258) sts on circular needle size 3 (3) mm = US 2,5 (2,5) and work 3 cm = 1 1/8” as follows: * 6 moss sts, 3 stockinette sts *, repeat from *-* with 6 moss sts each side (= front bands, worked in moss st throughout). At the same time after 1 cm = 3/8” make buttonhole – see above. After 3 cm = 1 1/8” change to needle size 4 (3.5) mm = US 6 (4), work 1 row stockinette st, at the same time inc 49-56 (47-56) sts evenly on row = 262-278 (296-314) sts. Insert a marker each side = 70-74 (78-83) sts on each front piece and 122-130 (140-148) sts on back piece. Now work next row as follows from RS: 6 moss sts (front band), 2 stockinette sts, M.3, 56-64 (73-82) stockinette sts, M.1 (= mid back), 57-65 (74-83) stockinette sts, M.2, 2 stockinette sts, 6 moss sts (front band). Continue in pattern like this. Remember your knitting gauge! When piece measures 48-49 (48-49) cm = 19”-19 1/4” (19”-19 1/4”) bind off 4-4 (6-6) sts each side for armhole and complete each piece separately.

Front piece: = 68-72 (75-80) sts. Bind off to shape the armhole at the side on every other row: 1 st 2-4 (2-4) times = 66-68 (73-76) sts. When piece measures 49-51 (49-51) cm = 19 1/4”-20” (19 1/4”-20”) bind off to shape the neckline inside the 6 front band sts at the beg of every row from mid front: 1 st 20-20 (23-24) times, and then on every other row from mid front: 1 st 5-5 (4-4) times. Bind off remaining sts on shoulder when piece measures 74-76 (74-76) cm = 29 1/8”-30” (29 1/8”-30”).

Back piece: = 118-126 (134-142) sts. Bind off for armhole each side as described for front piece = 114-118 (130-134) sts. When piece measures 71-73 (71-73) cm = 28”-28 3/4” (28”-28 3/4”) work 3 rows moss st on the middle 50-50 (56-56) sts and then bind off the middle 38-38 (44-44) sts for neck. Complete each side separately with 6 moss st towards neckline. Bind off as described for front piece.

Sleeves: Cast on 45-45 (54-54) sts on double pointed needle size 3 (3) mm = US 2,5 (2,5) and work 3 cm = 1 1/8” as follows: 6 moss sts, 3 stockinette sts. Change to needle size 4 (3.5) mm = US 6 (4) and continue in M.1 mid upper sleeve with stockinette st either side, at the same time inc 16-16 (11-11) sts evenly on first round = 61-61 (65-65) sts. At the same time inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 25-27 (30-33) times on every 4th round for size S/M in Muskat and Safran, and on * every 3rd and 4th * round alternately for size M/L in Muskat and Safran = 111-115 (125-131) sts – work inc sts in stockinette st. When piece measures 45-45 (45-45) cm = 17 3/4”-17 3/4” (17 3/4”-17 3/4”) bind off 8 (8) sts mid under arm and complete piece back and forth on needle. Bind off each side to shape the sleeve cap on every other row: 5 sts 4 (5) times, bind off remaining sts. Sleeve measures approx 49-49 (49-49) cm = 19 1/4”-19 1/4” (19 1/4”-19 1/4”).

Assembly: Join shoulders. Set in sleeves and sew on buttons.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K2 tog, 1 YO
symbols = 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K3 from cable needle
symbols = bobble, see above
symbols = K
symbols = P
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (6)

country flag Clarinda Bankras wrote:

Welke knopen heeft u gebruikt en kan ik deze ook via drops kopen. Al vast bedankt.

18.09.2023 - 13:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Clarinda,

Deze knopen zitten helaas niet meer bij ons in het assortiment.

18.09.2023 - 20:19

country flag Manon wrote:

Bonjour, Quand je commence à tricoter mon 1er rang avec le diagramme, je me retrouve avec 2 mailles en trop, j'ai bien suivi les instructions et lu carrément le diagramme mais je retrouve toujours 2 mailles en trop. Je précise que je tricoté la plus petite taille entre les (..) Merci

25.08.2022 - 17:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Manon, autrement dit, vous avez 296 m que vous allez tricoter ainsi: 6 m bordure devant, 2 m jersey, 41 m de M.3, 73 m jersey, 51 m de M.1, 74 m jersey, 41 m de M.2, 2 m jersey et 6 m de bordure devant soit: 6+2+41+73+51+74+41+2+6=296 mailles. Bon tricot!

26.08.2022 - 08:53

country flag Gudrun wrote:

Beim Summer Glow:wird für das rechte Vorderteil M2 und beim linken Vorderteil M 3 gestrickt ? Und wie stricke ich die Rückreihen . Maschen wie die erscheinen oder Strickschrift von links nach rechts ?

02.08.2022 - 12:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gudrun, ja genau, und beim Rückenteil stricken Sie M.1 und dazwischen sind es 56-64 (73-82) M. glatt rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.08.2022 - 13:04

country flag Chantal P wrote:

Je vous remercie de m'envoyer ce tuto en français.

10.01.2021 - 15:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Chantal, tous nos modèles sont disponibles en français, cliquez simplement sur la flèche du menu déroulant sous la photo pour modifier la langue des explications. Bon tricot!

11.01.2021 - 09:36

country flag Feige Ulrike wrote:

Hallo, Ich habe eine Frage zu der Strickschrift. Ist es richtig das in der Strickschrift nur die Hinrunden zu sehen sind? Die Rückrunden werden so gestrickt wie sie erscheinen oder? Danke! LG Feige

01.03.2018 - 11:10

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Feige, die Diagramme zeigen alle Reihen/Runden wie sie von der Vorderseite erscheinen, dh 1 Kästchen = 1 M x 1 R. Lesen Sie die Hinreihen von rechts nach links und die Rückreihen von links nach rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.03.2018 - 11:40

country flag Feige Ulrike wrote:

Hallo Kann es sein das in der Reihe mit den Lochmuster da wo die zwei Maschen zusammengestrickt werden müssen noch ein Umschlag hin gehört. Mir fehlt doch sonst immer eine Masche und ein Loch gibt es auch nicht. Danke! LG Feige

02.02.2018 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Feige, es stimmt, es müstte: "2 M re zs, 1 Umschlag" sein, danke für den Hinweis, die Anleitung wird korrigiert, . Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.02.2018 - 08:23