DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar

Snow Ring Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with double neck, round yoke, stripes and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 252-35

#snowringcardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern ai-492
Yarn group C + C or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 03, pearl grey
50-50-50-50-100-100 g colour 01, off white
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-125-125-125-150-150 g colour 35, pearl grey
25-25-25-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 502: 5-6-6-6-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality, using needle size 8 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.90 £ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows (from both the right and wrong side).
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.

BANDS WITH I-CORD
BEGINNING OF ROW:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1, work 5 garter stitches.
END OF ROW:
Work until there are 7 stitches left on the row, work 5 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
Work in the same way from both the right and wrong side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes on the right band (when garment is worn) from the right side.
ROW 1 (right side): Work until there are 5 stitches left on the row, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work the band as before. Knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neck is finished. Then work the 4-5-5-5-6-6 other buttonholes with 10-8½-9-9-8-8 cm between each one. The bottom buttonhole is worked in the transition between the stocking stitch and rib.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show the pattern from the right side.

STRIPES:
Change colour after working the 7 band stitches to avoid loose strands at the front of the jacket.
Work with 1 strand DROPS Air and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk as follows:
2-2-2-2-2-2 cm with colour off white.
6-6-6-7-7-7 cm with colour pearl grey.
Repeat these stripes as far as the rib, then finish with 1 strand Air colour pearl grey and 1 strand Brushed Alpaca Silk colour pearl grey.

I-CORD:
FIRST 2 STITCHES:
Worked on all rows: Slip 1 stitch purl-wise, with strand in front, knit 1.
LAST 2 STITCHES:
Worked on all rows: Work until there are 2 stitches left on the row, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with strand in front, knit 1.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row/round to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows:
Work until there are 4 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker-thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The double neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. When the yoke is finished, it is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth, while the sleeves wait. The body is finally divided for the split in each side and the pieces finished separately back and forth.
The sleeves are worked in the round.
The neck is folded to the inside and sewn down.
If there is a «0» in your chosen size, skip the information and go straight to the next instruction.

NECK:
Cast on 73-75-79-83-85-89 stitches with circular needle size 8 mm and 1 strand DROPS Air colour pearl grey and 1 strand DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk colour pearl grey (= 2 strands). Change to circular needle size 5 mm (casting on with a larger needle size makes the cast-on edge elastic).
Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side:
Work 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, work rib (knit 1, purl 1) until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib for 5 cm (= approx. the height of the neck when folded double).
Cast on 6 band stitches at the end of the next 2 rows = 85-87-91-95-97-101 stitches; the outermost 7 stitches are now worked according to BANDS WITH I-CORD, read description above. Work until the neck measures 11 cm – finishing with a row from the wrong side.
Insert a marker, inside one of the bands mid-front; the piece is now measured from here.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 8 mm and work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work the band as before, stocking stitch until there are 7 stitches left, work the band as before – remember the BUTTONHOLES, read description above = 85-87-91-95-97-101 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and the bands as before. Remember to maintain the knitting tension. Work until the yoke measures 2-2-3-2-2-2 cm from the marker.
Continue as described below, with all increases worked from the right side – read PATTERN above.
A.1:
Work the band, knit 3-1-6-5-3-2, work A.1, 22-24-22-24-26-28 times (with 9-7-12-11-9-8 stitches left on the row), knit 2-0-5-4-2-1 and work the band = 107-111-113-119-123-129 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and bands until the yoke measures 7-7-7-7-7-8 cm from the marker. AT THE SAME TIME when the yoke measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm from the marker begin working the STRIPES - read description above.
A.2:
Work the band, knit 3-1-6-5-3-2, work A.2, 22-24-22-24-26-28 times (with 9-7-12-11-9-8 stitches left on the row), knit 2-0-5-4-2-1 and work the band = 129-135-135-143-149-157 stitches
Continue with stocking stitch and bands until the yoke measures 12-12-11-12-12-14 cm from the marker.
A.3:
Work the band, knit 3-1-6-5-3-2, work A.3, 22-24-22-24-26-28 times (with 9-7-12-11-9-8 stitches left on the row), knit 2-0-5-4-2-1, work the band = 151-159-157-167-175-185 stitches
Continue with stocking stitch and bands until the yoke measures 17-17-15-17-17-20 cm from the marker.
A.4:
Work the band, knit 3-1-6-5-3-2, work A.4, 22-24-22-24-26-28 times (with 9-7-12-11-9-8 stitches left on the row), knit 2-0-5-4-2-1, work the band = 173-183-179-191-201-213 stitches.
When A.4 is finished, the yoke measures approx. 18-18-16-18-18-21 cm from the marker.
In sizes S and M, the increases are finished. In the other sizes increase one more time as described below.
Continue with stocking stitch and bands until the yoke measures 18-18-19-22-22-26 cm from the marker.
Work as follows from the right side: Work the band, knit 159-169-6-5-3-2, work A.5, 0-0-22-24-26-28 times (with 7-7-12-11-9-8 stitches left on the row), knit 0-0-5-4-2-1 and work the band = 173-183-201-215-227-241 stitches
Continue with stocking stitch, stripes and bands. When the yoke measures 20-21-23-24-26-28 cm from the marker mid-front, divide for the body and sleeves.

DIVIDE FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
Work the next row as follows: Work 32-33-36-38-41-44 stitches as before (= front piece), place the next 30-32-36-38-39-40 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-10-8-10-12-12 stitches (= in side mid-under the sleeve), work 49-53-57-63-67-73 stitches (= back piece), place the next 30-32-36-38-39-40 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-10-8-10-12-12 stitches (= in side mid-under the sleeve), work the last 32-33-36-38-41-44 stitches as before (= front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately.

BODY:
= 129-139-145-159-173-185 stitches. Insert 1 marker-thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-10-8-10-12-12 cast-on stitches under each sleeve. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when working the split in each side.
Continue back and forth with stocking stitch, stripes and bands as before until the piece measures 41-43-45-46-48-50 cm from the marker mid-front and the next row to be worked from the wrong side:
Work as before to 2 stitches before the first marker-thread, place the next 2 stitches on a cable needle behind the piece, purl the next 2 stitches, place the marker-thread on the needle, purl the 2 stitches from the cable needle, work to 2 stitches before the second marker-thread, place the next 2 stitches on a cable needle in front of the piece, purl the next 2 stitches, place the marker-thread on the needle, purl the 2 stitches from the cable needle, work to end of row.
Now divide for the split in each side, dividing at each marker-thread; place the back-piece and the right front piece on stitch holders and work the left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 36-38-40-43-47-50 stitches. On the next row (= right side) start working rib, AT THE SAME TIME increase 16-18-20-21-23-24 stitches evenly on this row (do not increase across the band) – read INCREASE TIP = 52-56-60-64-70-74 stitches, working as follows:
Change to circular needle size 5 mm and work the band as before, work rib (knit 1, purl 1 – remember to increase) until there are 5 stitches left, knit 1 and work 2 GARTER STITCHES – read description above, finish with 2 stitches in I-CORD – read description above.
When the rib measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm cast off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl.
The jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the marker mid-front and 53-55-57-59-61-63 cm from top of shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 36-38-40-43-47-50 stitches. On the next row (= right side) start working rib, AT THE SAME TIME increase 16-18-20-21-23-24 stitches evenly on this row (do not increase across the band) = 52-56-60-64-70-74 stitches, working as follows:
Change to circular needle size 5 mm and work 2 stitches in I-CORD, 2 garter stitches, work rib (knit 1, purl 1 – remember to increase) until there are 8 stitches left, knit 1 and work the band as before.
When the rib measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm cast off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl.

BACK PIECE:
= 57-63-65-73-79-85 stitches. Start from the right side and work rib. AT THE SAME TIME, increase 34-36-40-42-46-48 stitches evenly on the first row = 91-99-105-115-125-133 stitches, working as follows:
Change to circular needle size 5 mm, work 2 stitches in I-cord, 2 garter stitches, work rib (knit 1, purl 1 – remember to increase), until there are 5 stitches left, knit 1, work 2 garter stitches and 2 stitches in I-cord.
When the rib measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm, cast off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl.
The jumper measures 49-51-53-55-57-59 cm from the marker and approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the top of the shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Place the 30-32-36-38-39-40 sleeve-stitches from one thread on circular needle size 8 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-10-8-10-12-12 cast-on stitches under the sleeve = 38-42-44-48-51-52 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread in the middle of the 8-10-8-10-12-12 new stitches under the sleeve – start at the marker-thread.
Work stocking stitch and continue the stripes in the round – AT THE SAME TIME, when the sleeve measures 4-2-2-2-3-2 cm from the division, decrease under the sleeve as follows– read DECREASE TIP: Decrease 2 stitches every 10-6-5-4-3-3 cm a total of 4-6-7-8-9-9 times = 30-30-30-32-32-34 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-36-34-33-31-30 cm from the division.
Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1). AT THE SAME TIME, increase 18-18-18-18-19-20 stitches evenly on the first round = 48-48-48-50-52-54 stitches.
When the rib measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm cast off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-41-39-38 cm from the division.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important the seam is elastic.
Sew together the openings on the bands mid-front with small stitches. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is purled twisted on the next row to avoid a hole
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (1)

country flag Trudi Griffith wrote:

Your patterns are beautiful and your yarn is so soft and exquisite to knit.

24.10.2024 - 21:31