DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.55 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.95€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Moonrise Cardigan

Knitted jacket in 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with saddle shoulders, double neck, split in sides and I-cord. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 249-30
DROPS Design: Pattern ks-218
Yarn group A + A + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

YARN:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
225-250-275-300-350-375 g colour 01, off white

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch and 3 strands = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.55 € /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.95€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows, from both the right and wrong side.
1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows.

RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1, work 6 garter stitches.
WRONG SIDE:
Work 6 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1.

LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD:
RIGHT SIDE:
Work 6 garter stitches, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1.
WRONG SIDE:
Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn in front, knit 1, work 6 garter stitches

BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes on the right band from the right side (band = 8 stitches).
ROW 1: Work the first 3 band stitches as before, knit together the 4th and 5th stitch, make 1 yarn over and finish the band as before.
ROW 2: Knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the band measures 9-9-10-8-10-9½ cm. The other buttonholes when the piece measures:
XS: 17½-26-34½-43 cm.
S: 18-27-36-45 cm.
M: 18½-28-37½-47 cm.
L: 16-24-32-40-48 cm.
XL: 18-26-34-42-50 cm.
XXL: 18-26½-35-43½-52 cm.
(= last buttonhole is worked on the first row on the neck).

DECREASE TIP-1 (for saddle shoulders):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
BEFORE MARKER:
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased).
AFTER MARKER:
Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over knitted-together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
BEFORE MARKER:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).
AFTER MARKER:
Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 1 stitch before the marker-thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (2 increased stitches). Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary.
The piece is worked bottom up. The front and back pieces are worked separately as far as the armhole.
The sleeves are worked bottom up as far as the armholes, then placed on the same circular needle as the front and back pieces. The yoke is continued back and forth, decreasing for the saddle shoulders and sleeves. The double neck is worked in rib. The side seams are sewn together to finish.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 62-66-70-78-82-86 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side: Work RIGHT BAND WITH I-CORD – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 and work 4 edge stitches in GARTER STITCHES - read description above.
Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm – remember the BUTTONHOLES - read description above.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side and decrease 17-17-18-22-21-21 stitches evenly spaced – do not decrease over the band or edge stitches = 45-49-52-56-61-65 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch, 4 edge stitches on the side and 8 band stitches mid-front. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
Work until the piece measures 25 cm. On the next row from the wrong side cast off the first 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches for the armhole = 42-46-48-52-56-60 stitches. Work to end of row. Cut the strand. Lay the piece to one side.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 62-66-70-78-82-86 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side: 4 edge stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 10 stitches left, knit 2 and LEFT BAND WITH I-CORD – read description above.
Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side and decrease 17-17-18-22-21-21 stitches evenly spaced – do not decrease over the band or edge stitches = 45-49-52-56-61-65 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch, 4 edge stitches on the side and 8 band stitches mid-front.
Work until the piece measures 25 cm. On the next row from the wrong side cast off the last 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches for the armhole = 42-46-48-52-56-60 stitches. Cut the strand. Lay the piece to one side.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 106-118-126-134-150-162 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side: 4 edge stitches in garter stitch, knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 and 4 edge stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Purl 1 row from the wrong side and decrease 30-34-36-36-42-46 stitches evenly spaced – do not decrease over the edge stitches = 76-84-90-98-108-116 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and 4 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side.
Work until the piece measures 25 cm, with the next row from the right side. Cast off 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches for the armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 70-78-82-90-98-106 stitches. Cut the strand. Lay the piece to one side.

SLEEVES:
The sleeves are worked in the round.
Cast on 56-60-60-64-64-68 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 8 cm. Knit 1 round and decrease 14-16-14-18-16-18 stitches evenly spaced = 42-44-46-46-48-50 stitches.
Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round (= mid-under sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards, it is used when increasing under the sleeves. Change to needle size 5.5 mm and work stocking stitch.
When the sleeve measures 11-10-11-11-12-11 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread – read INCREASE TIP. Repeat this increase every 4½-4-2½-2-1½-1½ cm a total of 6-7-9-12-13-13 times = 54-58-64-70-74-76 stitches.
Work until the sleeve measures 37-36-35-35-34-32 cm. There is approx. 25-27-29-30-32-34 cm to the neckline – try the sleeve on and work to desired length.
Cast off 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches under the sleeve (i.e., 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches on each side of the marker-thread) = 48-52-56-62-64-66 stitches. Cut the strand. Lay the piece to one side.

YOKE:
All pieces are now placed on the same circular needle, stocking stitch is continued with the bands as before and 4 markers are inserted on the first row (between 2 stitches and which are used when working the saddle shoulders). Start from the right side on the right front piece, then work a sleeve, the back piece, the second sleeve and finally the left front piece as follows:
Work 46-48-50-51-52-54 stitches (= right front piece), insert marker-1 here, work 40-48-52-64-72-78 stitches (= sleeve), insert marker-2 here, work 78-82-86-88-90-94 stitches (= back piece), insert marker-3 here, work 40-48-52-64-72-78 stitches (= sleeve), insert marker-4 here, work 46-48-50-51-52-54 stitches (= left front piece) = 250-274-290-318-338-358 stitches.
Allow the 4 markers to follow your work onwards.
Work 1-0-0-1-0-0 cm of stocking stitch back and forth, with 8 band stitches on each side. Now decrease for the sleeves as follows:

SLEEVE DECREASES-1:
Read the next section before continuing! NOTE! Do not work this section in size S, go straight to SLEEVE DECREASES-2.
On the next row from the right side decrease 8 stitches on the sleeves as follows:
Decrease 2 stitches AFTER markers 1 and 3 and decrease 2 stitches BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease only on the sleeves (the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same).
Decrease like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 0-1-2-7-8-9 times = 250-266-274-262-274-286 stitches.

SLEEVE DECREASES -2:
On the next row from the right side, decrease 4 stitches on the sleeves as follows.
Decrease 1 stitch AFTER markers 1 and 3 and decrease 1 stitch BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – read DECREASE TIP-2. Only decrease on the sleeves (the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same).
Decrease like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 13-15-15-10-12-13 times = 198-206-214-222-226-234 stitches (there are 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches left on each sleeve).
The piece measures approx. 14-16-17-18-20-22 cm from where the pieces were joined. Now work the saddle shoulders.

SADDLE SHOULDERS-1:
On the next row from the right side decrease 8 stitches as follows:
Decrease 2 stitches BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and decrease 2 stitches AFTER markers 2 and 4 – remember DECREASE TIP-1. Only decrease on the front and back pieces (the number of stitches on the sleeves remains the same).
Decrease like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 4-4-5-5-5-5 times = 166-174-174-182-186-194 stitches, with the last row worked from the wrong side. The piece measures approx. 44-46-47-48-50-52 cm from the cast-on edge.
Cut the strand, place the 8 band stitches on each side on separate threads = 150-158-158-166-170-178 stitches.
Now begin to decrease for the neckline, AT THE SAME TIME continue decreasing for the saddle shoulders. Read NECKLINE DECREASES and SADDLE SHOULDERS-2 before continuing!

NECKLINE DECREASES:
Start from the right side and cast off at the beginning of each row as follows: 8-10-10-11-12-14 stitches 1 time, 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 3 times on each side.

SADDLE SHOULDERS -2:
Continue decreasing 8 stitches for the saddle shoulders every 2nd row 7-7-7-7-7-7 more times (a total of 11-11-12-12-12-12 times), with the next row from the wrong side.

AFTER LAST DECREASE:
There are 62-66-66-72-74-78 stitches (14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches on each sleeve, zero stitches on the front pieces and 34-38-38-40-42-46 stitches on the back piece). The yoke measures approx. 25-27-29-30-32-34 cm from where the pieces were joined and the jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder. Cut the strand and continue from the right side on the right band.
Work RIGHT BAND over the 8 band stitches from the first thread, knit up 16-18-18-19-20-22 stitches along the right neckline, knit to end of row, knit up 16-18-18-19-20-22 stitches along the left neckline, work LEFT BAND over the 8 band stitches from the second thread = 110-118-118-126-130-138 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands as before) and decrease 0-4-4-4-4-8 stitches evenly over the purled stitches = 110-114-114-122-126-130 stitches.

DOUBLE NECK:
Use circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib from the right side as follows:
8 band stitches as before, rib (knit 2, purl 2) until there are 10 stitches left, knit 2 and 8 band stitches as before.
Continue this rib back and forth for 5 cm.
At the beginning of the next 2 rows, cast off the outermost 7 stitches on each side. Continue the rib with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the neck measures 10 cm, cast off a little loosely. Fold the neck double to the inside and fasten down. Sew the openings on the bands with small stitches.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the side seams, starting by the armhole and sewing in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat. Leave a split at the bottom on each side of desired length (you will have 8 garter stitches down each side seam). Sew together the openings under each sleeve. Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Yvonne Klok wrote:

Ik wil het vest met met garen fabel breien, hoeveel garen heb ik dan nodig? Moet het dan ook met 3 draden worden gebreid?

22.05.2024 - 11:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Yvonne,

Ja, je kunt dan inderdaad met 3 draden fabel breien. De hoeveelheden zullen wel anders zijn. Je moet kijken naar de totale looplengte voor Kid Silk en deze delen door de looplengte van 1 bol fabel, om de hoeveelheid bollen te berekenen.

Verder hebben we een artikel op de site staan waarin uitgelegd is hoe je garen kunt vervangen met een ander garen en hoe je dit uitrekent. Zie hier.

24.05.2024 - 06:58

country flag Torgunn Hannevold wrote:

Vil strikke en jakke i droppes air,en enkel jakke med raglandfelling

29.04.2024 - 14:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Torgunn, Hvis du søker på "Drops Air, jakke, raglan" under Gratis oppskrifter, får du en liste over våre oppskrifter. God fornøyelse!

30.04.2024 - 06:37

country flag Valérie wrote:

Bonjour combien me faut de laine pour le tricoter en daisy + kid silk? merci pour la réponse

10.03.2024 - 19:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, calculez le métrage total nécessaire pour votre taille et divisez-le en 3, le tiers de ce métrage correspond à la quantité kid-Silk (= à rediviser par le métrage d'une pelote Kid-Silk pour avoir le nombre de pelotes), et divisez le métrage restant (les 2/3) par le métrage d'une pelote Daisy. Pensez ensuite à bien vérifier et à bien conserver la bonne tension. Bon tricot!

11.03.2024 - 09:39

country flag Samia Shafqaat wrote:

Cloud cardigan

20.01.2024 - 08:37

country flag Marlies Van Dijk wrote:

Lekker fluffy

18.01.2024 - 21:51

country flag Karin wrote:

White summer

18.01.2024 - 21:15

country flag Michèle wrote:

Nuage coton

18.01.2024 - 16:21