100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 238-9
DROPS Design: Pattern w-901
Yarn group C or A + A

Height (without strap): approx. 21 cm = 8¼".
Width: approx. 21 cm = 8¼".
Length of strap: approx. 50 cm = 19¾".

DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100 g 17, off white
50 g 30, jeans blue
50 g 29, ice blue
50 g 67, wheat
50 g 68, almond
50 g 44, brown


14 double crochets in width and 8.5 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller hook size.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.60 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



See diagram A.1.

CAST ON + ROUND 1: color jeans blue
ROUND 2: color ice blue
ROUND 3: color off white
ROUND 4: color wheat
ROUND 5: color almond
ROUND 6: color brown
ROUND 7: color off white
ROWS OF SINGLE CROCHETS worked back and forth along 3 sides of the squares: color off white

Changing colors will be neatest if you work the last slip stitch on the round with the new color.

If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 single/double/single-double crochet is wide.




2 similar squares are worked – see SQUARES below. An edge is worked on one square before the squares are crocheted together. Finally, a border is crocheted around the top of the bag and the strap is worked to finish.

Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 5 MM = US H/8 and DROPS Paris color jeans blue. Form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch worked.
Work A.1 - read PATTERN, COLORS and COLOR-CHANGE. When A.1 is finished, cut and fasten the strands. Crochet another square the same way.

Use color off white and start in one of the corners on one of the squares and crochet like this:
ROW 1: Join yarn with 1 slip stitch in the middle chain stitch of the corner, work 1 chain stitch (replaces the first single crochet) and work 1 single crochet in the next chain stitch in the corner (= 2 single crochets in the corner), then work 1 single crochet in each double crochet and 1 single crochet in each chain stitch until you have crocheted single crochets along 3 sides of the bag, and finish with 1 single crochet in each of the first 2 chain stitches in the last corner. Turn piece.
ROW 2: Work 1 chain stitch (replaces first single crochet), work 1 single crochet in each single crochet along the row. Turn piece.
Repeat 2nd row until a total of 7 rows with single crochets has been worked, don't cut the yarn, squares are now crocheted together from the wrong side. Crochet 1 chain stitch to turn with.

Lay the squares together, right side to right side. Work now the squares together by crocheting the 3 sides with single crochets from the last square together with the first square. Working through both squares, crochet 1 single crochet in each single crochet/stitch.
The squares are now crocheted each other. Cut and fasten the thread. Crochet now a round of double crochets along the opening of bag as follows:

Using color off white and fasten the thread with 1 slip stitch around of the rows of single crochets on the top side of the bag. Crochet 3 chain stitches, then 1 double crochet in each row of single crochets on the side of the bag, 1 double crochet in each 1 double crochet and in each chain stitch along the squares, continue in the round like this and finish with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten the strand.
The bag measures approx. 21 x 21 cm = 8¼" x 8¼".

Using color off white, work a cord of chain stitches approx. 110 cm = 43⅜". Cut the strand. Work 3 such cords.
Tie the 3 cords together at one end and plait the cords tightly together = approx. 100 cm = 39⅜" in length when finished. Tie a knot in the other end.
Thread the plait through the double crochets on each side of the bag and tie the ends of the plait together.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = Start here – this chain-stitch ring is described in the text. Continue with the symbol above the point on the circle and work to the left
symbols = 1 CHAIN STITCH – read description in text
symbols = 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain-stitch ring/chain-space
symbols = 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round, cut strand, next row starts in corner of square by arrow
symbols = Start here, this row is worked from the wrong side
symbols = 1 single crochet in stitch below, work in front loop of stitch
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Nele wrote:

Welche Größe (in cm) ist hat die Häkelnadel Nr. 5? Ich hab schon überall geguckt aber keine Größenangabe gefunden. LG

17.03.2024 - 13:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Neue, unsere Häkelnadel sind 15 cm lang (siehe hier z.B. und hier braucht man eine Häkelnadel 5 mm. Viel Spaß beim Häkeln!

18.03.2024 - 09:21

country flag Amy wrote:

Thank you for sharing this pattern. I basically already knew how to make this bag but wanted to see how you made the sides and strap. Thank you for making the directions free and easy to access. The yarn you have linked is beautiful and I will be placing an order.

17.02.2024 - 23:42

country flag Vera Volckaert wrote:

Hei kjære Drops folk. Jeg er ferdig med crossbody-vesken, bare handtakene. Jeg skjønner ikke helt hvordan jeg skal feste dem til posen. Jeg forstår ikke den siste setningen i forklaringen. Hvilken side av posen skal jeg tre fletten gjennom? Masse biff? Da er ikke fletten min long nok? Pussstrenging, bind fletten sammen. Er ikke det alt for tykt? Du har sikkert all knyttet en knute i begge ender av fletten. Tusen takk for svar og et veldig fint mønster. Hilsen fra Belgia! Vera

30.07.2023 - 12:07

country flag Wibecke wrote:

Hej Jag undrar på kanten som ska virkas runt, stämmer det att det är på bara den ena rutan? Blir det inte svårt att virka ihop dem på ett snyggt sätt?

28.07.2023 - 10:22

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Wibecke Når du skal hekle kanten på vesken er rutene allerede heklet sammen, les Sammenhekling. Kanten som skal hekles rundt er den på toppen av vesken / rundt åpningen, Den starter med 3 luftmasker om en av fasmaskeradene i siden av vesken. Deretter hekles det 1 stav om hver rad i siden av vesken og hekle 1 stav i hver stav og 1 stav i hver luftmaske langs rutene. Hekle slik omgangen rundt, og avslutt med 1 kjedemaske i den 3.luftmasken fra begynnelsen av omgangen. mvh DROPS Design

28.07.2023 - 13:49

country flag Minna Peltonen wrote:

Moi kysyisin 3 kysymystä liittyen tohon laukuun. Kysymys 1: Voiko tohon käyttää 4 väriä (sellain ett siihen ruutuun tulee 2 kierrosta per väri). Kysymys 2: Voiko ne ruudut tehdä isompana esim. 8 kierrosta? Kysymys 3: Voiko sen hihnan tehdä tukevammaksi (sellain ett tekee sen ketjusilmukka ketjuun noita kiinteitä silmukoita ennenkun kiinnittää sen laukkuun)?

21.06.2023 - 14:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hei, kyllä, voit virkata laukun 4 värillä (2 kerrosta per väri). Voit myös halutessasi tehdä ruudut isommiksi ja virkata niihin 8 kerrosta, tai enemmän. Halutessasi voit myös virkata hihnan ympäri yhden kerroksen kiinteitä silmukoita tai rapuvirkkausta.

22.06.2023 - 17:32

country flag Rita wrote:

Day trip

22.01.2023 - 09:41

country flag Anja wrote:


17.01.2023 - 21:32