DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.10£. Read more.

Mossy Mingle Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Paris. The piece is worked bottom up, with lace and relief pattern. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 241-25
DROPS Design: Pattern w-881
Yarn group C or A + A
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

YARN:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-650-700-750-850-900 g colour 69, pistachio

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 611: 6 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.10£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
BUTTONHOLES:
Work the buttonholes on the right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = Knit together the 3rd and 4th stitch from the edge, make 1 yarn over which is knitted on the next row to leave a hole.
Work the buttonholes when the piece measures:
XS: 8, 17, 25, 33, 41 and 49 cm
S: 8, 17, 26, 34, 42 and 50 cm
M: 8, 17, 26, 35, 44 and 52 cm
L: 8, 17, 26, 35, 44 and 53 cm
XL: 8, 17, 26, 35, 45 and 55 cm
XXL: 8, 17, 27, 37, 47 and 57 cm

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follwos: Work until 3 stitches before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately back and forth, bottom up. The piece is sewn together. Stitches are knitted up around each armhole and the sleeves first worked back and forth, then in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. The neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 104-108-116-124-132-140 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Paris. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work from the right side as follows: 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 6 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 17-15-17-19-21-23 stitches evenly spaced = 87-93-99-105-111-117 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work stocking stitch with 1 garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When the piece measures 8-7-7-8-8-8 cm, work as follows from the right side: 1 garter stitch, A.1A, work A.1B until there is 1 stitch left, 1 garter stitch.
When A.1 is finished in height, work as follows: 1 garter stitch, A.2B, A.2C until there is 1 stitch left, 1 garter stitch. (In diagram A.2C work the last stitch in row 7 together with the next stitch). Continue this pattern – AT THE SAME TIME on the last row in A.2 adjust the stitch-number to 86-94-98-106-110-118 stitches. When A.2 is finished in height, work A.3 with 1 garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 24-24-25-26-27-28 cm (finish after a row from the wrong side).
Now work A.2 one more time in the same way – AT THE SAME TIME on the first row adjust the stitch-number to 87-93-99-105-111-117 stitches. Then work A.3 with 1 garter stitch on each side – AT THE SAME TIME on the first row adjust the stitch-number to 86-94-98-106-110-118 stitches.
When the piece measures 37-37-38-39-40-41 cm, cast off 2-4-5-4-5-10 stitches for the armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 82-86-88-98-100-98 stitches. Continue A.3 with 1 garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 38-39-41-42-44-46 cm from the cast-on edge and adjust the stitch-number to 80-88-88-100-100-100 stitches on the last row.
Work as follows from the right side: 1 garter stitch, A.4A over the next 3-1-1-1-1-1 stitches, work A.4B until there are 4-2-2-2-2-2 stitches left, A.4A over the next 3-1-1-1-1-1 stitches and 1 garter stitch.
When A.4 is finished in height, work A.3 with 1 garter stitch on each side to finished length. At the same time, when the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off the middle 24-24-24-26-26-26 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. On the next row cast off 1 stitch from the neck = 27-31-31-36-36-36 stitches on the shoulder. Work until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cast off slightly loosely with knit from the right side. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 57-61-65-69-73-77 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Paris. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work from the right side (from mid-front) as follows: 6 garter stitches (band), * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 3 stitches left, knit 2 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib for 6 cm.
Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 7-8-9-10-11-12 stitches evenly spaced (do not decrease over the band) = 50-53-56-59-62-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm.
Work stocking stitch with 6 band stitches in garter stitch mid-front and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side. When the piece measures 8-7-7-8-8-8 cm, work from the right side as follows: 6 garter stitches, A.1A, work A.1B until there are 1-2-1-2-1-2 stitches left, A.1a over the next 0-1-0-1-0-1 stitch and 1 garter stitch.
When A.1 is finished in height, work as follows: 6 garter stitches, A.2A over the next 3-1-0-1-0-1 stitches, A.2B, work A.2C until there are 4-3-1-3-1-3 stitches left, A.2A over the next 3-2-0-2-0-2 stitches, 1 garter stitch.
On the next-to-last row in A.2 adjust the stitch-number to 51-55-55-59-63-67 stitches.
When A.2 is finished in height, work A.3 with 6 garter stitches mid-front and 1 garter stitch towards the side until the piece measures 24-24-25-26-27-28 cm – match the length to the back piece. Work A.2 one more time in the same way – AT THE SAME TIME on the first row adjust the stitch-number to 50-53-56-59-62-65 stitches.
Continue with A.3, 6 garter stitches mid-front and 1 garter stitch towards the side – AT THE SAME TIME on the first row adjust the stitch-number to 51-55-55-59-63-67 stitches. When the piece measures 37-37-38-39-40-41 cm, cast off 2-4-5-4-5-10 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the side = 49-51-50-55-58-57 stitches. Continue A.3 with 6 garter stitches mid-front and 1 garter stitch towards the side until the piece measures 38-39-41-42-44-46 cm from the cast-on edge – match the height to the back piece.
Work the next row from the right side as follows: 6 garter stitches, A.4A over the next 3-5-3-1-1-2 stitches, work A.4B until there are 3-5-4-1-2-2 stitches left, A.4A over the next 2-4-3-0-1-1 stitches, 1 garter stitch. On the next-to-last row in A.4 adjust the stitch-number to 49-51-51-57-57-57 stitches.
When A.4 is finished in height, work A.3 with 6 garter-stitches mid-front and 1 garter stitch towards the side to finished length. When the piece measures 48-50-52-53-55-57 cm, place the 11-11-11-12-13-13 outermost stitches towards mid-front on a thread for the neck; to avoid cutting the strand, work these stitches first. Continue the pattern and cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 4-3-3-2-2-2 times and 1 stitch 0-0-0-2-1-1 times = 27-31-31-36-36-36 stitches on the shoulder. Work until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cast off slightly loosely with knit from the right side.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 57-61-65-69-73-77 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Paris. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work from the right side (from the side) as follows: 1 garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, knit 2 and 6 garter stitches (band). Continue this rib for 6 cm.
Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 7-8-9-10-11-12 stitches evenly spaced (do not decrease over the bands) = 50-53-56-59-62-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 mm.
Work stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side and 6 band stitches in garter stitch. When the piece measures 8-7-7-8-8-8 cm, work from the right side as follows: 1 garter stitch, A.1A over the next 0-1-0-1-0-1 stitch, work A.1B until there are 7 stitches left, A.1a and 6 garter stitches.
When A.1 is finished in height, work A.2 as follows: 1 garter stitch, A.2A over the next 3-2-0-2-0-2 stitches, work A.2C until there are 10-8-7-8-7-8 stitches left, A.2B, A.2A over the next 3-1-0-1-0-1 stitches, 6 garter stitches.
On the next-to-last row in A.2 adjust the stitch-number to 51-55-55-59-63-67 stitches.
When A.2 is finished in height, work A.3 (starting with the last 2 stitches in diagram so you end up with knit by the band), with 1 garter stitch towards the side and 6 garter stitches towards mid-front until the piece measures 24-24-25-26-27-28 cm. Work A.2 one more time in the same way – AT THE SAME TIME on the first row adjust the stitch-number to 50-53-56-59-62-65 stitches.
Continue with A.3, 6 garter stitches mid-front and 1 garter stitch towards the side – AT THE SAME TIME on the first row adjust the stitch-number to 51-55-55-59-63-67 stitches. When the piece measures 37-37-38-39-40-41 cm, cast off 2-4-5-4-5-10 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the side = 49-51-50-55-58-57 stitches. Continue A.3 with 1 garter stitch towards the side and 6 garter stitches mid-front until the piece measures 38-39-41-42-44-46 cm from the cast-on edge – match the height to the back piece.
Work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 garter stitch, A.4A over the next 2-4-3-0-1-1 stitches, work A.4B until there are 9-11-9-7-7-8 stitches left, A.4A over the next 3-5-3-1-1-2 stitches, 6 garter stitches. On the next-to-last row in A.4 adjust the stitch-number to 49-51-51-57-57-57 stitches.
When A.4 is finished in height, work A.3 with 1 garter stitch towards the side and 6 garter-stitches mid-front to finished length. When the piece measures 48-50-52-53-55-57 cm, place the 11-11-11-12-13-13 outermost stitches towards mid-front on a thread for the neck; to avoid cutting the strand, work these stitches first. Continue the pattern and cast off at the beginning of each row from the neck as follows: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 4-3-3-2-2-2 times and 1 stitch 0-0-0-2-1-1 times = 27-31-31-36-36-36 stitches on the shoulder. Work until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Cast off slightly loosely with knit from the right side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

SLEEVES:
Use circular needle size 5 mm and knit up from the right side 61-65-68-71-75-78 stitches inside the 1 edge stitch around the armhole (do not knit up stitches in the cast-off stitches under the sleeve). Insert 1 marker in the middle of the row – the sleeve is measured from here. Work stocking stitch back and forth for 2-2-4-2-4-5 cm.
Join the sleeve together and continue in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round and allow it to follow your work onwards. Start at the marker-thread and work stocking stitch. When the sleeve measures 6-6-8-6-8-8 cm from the marker on top of the sleeve, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3½-3-3-2½-2½ cm a total of 8-9-10-11-12-13 times = 45-47-48-49-51-52 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-39-40-38-39-40 cm from the marker. Knit 1 round and increase 7-9-8-11-13-12 stitches evenly spaced = 52-56-56-60-64-64 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 8 cm. Cast off slightly loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 47-47-48-46-47-48 cm.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the bottom of the armholes together – see sketch. Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch – start at the armhole and sew as far as the rib at the bottom, leaving a split in the sides.

NECK:
Knit up from the right side 78 to 86 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the threads) with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Paris. The stitch-number should be divisible by 4+2. Work as follows from mid-front: 6 garter stitches, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, knit 2, 6 garter stitches. Continue this rib for 6 cm. Cast off slightly loosely.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is purled on the next row (hole)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
symbols = Sew sleeve cap to armhole: Sew b to B
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 241-25

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Silvia wrote:

Buongiorno, sto facendo il dietro e sono confusa fra A2B e A2C, sono un totale di 7 maglie per riga. Quando arrivo alla riga 7 faccio un gettato, poi una maglia accavallata e poi devo fare 3 o 4 maglie diritte prima della prossima gettata? Se devo mantenere 7 maglie per riga dovrei farne 3, è giusto? Grazie

18.10.2023 - 21:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Silvia, nel diagramma A.2C deve lavorare l'ultima maglia del ferro 7 insieme alla maglia successiva. Buon lavoro!

29.10.2023 - 23:18

country flag Elena wrote:

Good time of the day! Half-way through this beautiful knit. Could you please kindly confirm if the back should be 7 stitches narrower than the front with overlapped bands ? Like, size XS is 50 st wide after the rib decrease for both left and front pieces, and the back piece is 87 st wide. My maths are (50+50)-6 =94 st in total for the buttoned up front. Am I making an error it should be this way? Thank you in advance!

14.10.2023 - 16:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Elena, Yes, your maths is correct. The shape of the jacket means that the difference in stitch number on the front and back pieces will not be visible in the finished garment. The stitch numbers are important for the pattern on each piece. Happy knitting!

16.10.2023 - 08:51

country flag Dolores wrote:

Mod. 241-25. Delantero derecho. Cuando la labor mida 50 cm se “colocan 11 puntos más externos hacia centro delantero en gancho auxiliar” luego cerrar 3 puntos 1 vez, 2 puntos 3 veces y 1 punto= 31 puntos hombro. (51+11-3-2-2-2-1=52). No entiendo toda esta explicación para que salgan 31 puntos y cómo se tejen los 11 puntos, no hay vídeo de la explicación. Gracias

06.07.2023 - 00:39

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Dolores, los 11 puntos más externos en el centro del delantero están incluidos en los 51. Estos 11 puntos del centro del delantero se trabajan e inmediatamente se deslizan y dejan en espera en un gancho auxiliar o hilo; puedes ver el vídeo en el siguiente enlace: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=301&lang=en. Por lo tanto, tendremos 40 puntos en la aguja. Después de esto, cerramos 1 punto 1 vez y 2 puntos 3 veces (1 punto sería 0 veces, por lo que lo puedes ignorar). Así te quedan 31 puntos para el hombro.

10.07.2023 - 15:25

country flag Joan Roberts wrote:

Thank you for your response to my question about row7 A2B & A2C chart but it still did not come out right for me. I had a very experienced knitter try it and she thought the stitch count was off. Was the garment test knitted ? Thank you.

09.06.2023 - 22:40

country flag Joan Roberts wrote:

I am making Mossy Mingle cardigan and am confused by A2C row seven. I am making size M. You knit A2B ( y/o sl1,k1, PSSO ) So you end up with the y/o and 1 stitch ? Then it says to work the last stitch in row 7 together with the next stitch. I am confused how to do that. Can you help please.

01.06.2023 - 15:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Roberts, on this row, work A.2B as follows: 1 yarn over (= this is now the stitch of A.2B), knit together the next stitch (the one from A.2B) + the first stitch in A.2C (= this is now the new first stitch of A.2C, and repeat for next repeat: at th end ofA.2, make 1 yarn over (= new last stitch of A.2C), knit the last stitch A.2c together with the first stitch next A.2C (= new first stitch next A.2C) and so on. Happy knitting!

01.06.2023 - 16:48

country flag Joan Rberts wrote:

I am making the Mossy Mingle Cardigan and about to start the A4 section of the right front in size M. I have 50 stitches but when you start the first row of that section doing 6 garter, 3 A4A, and three repeats of A4B, A4A again you end up with an extra stitch ?

20.05.2023 - 19:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Joan, you work three repeats of A.4B and 1 more stitch, which is worked as the first stitch in A.4B. Then, you will have 4 stitches left, which are worked as explained in the pattern. Happy knitting!

21.05.2023 - 19:08

country flag Joan Rberts wrote:

I am making the Mossy Mingle Cardigan and about to start the A4 section of the right front in size M. I have 50 stitches but when you start the first row of that section doing 6 garter, 3 A4A, and three repeats of A4B, A4A again you end up with an extra stitch ?

20.05.2023 - 18:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Joan, you work three repeats of A.4B and 1 more stitch, which is worked as the first stitch in A.4B. Then, you will have 4 stitches left, which are worked as explained in the pattern. Happy knitting!

21.05.2023 - 19:08

country flag Joan Roberts wrote:

My question is about the A.1B chart, do you yarn over and knit one stitch ? Thanks

15.05.2023 - 23:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Roberts, when working A.1, you first start working the stitch in A.1A, then repeat the 2 stitches A.1B (= yarn over, knit 2 together) until 1 stitch remain. Happy knitting!

16.05.2023 - 09:06

country flag Μαρία Παπαδοπούλου wrote:

You are very helpful. Thank you for your prompt answer.

02.05.2023 - 18:09

country flag Μαρία Παπαδοπούλου wrote:

Good morning. I am to decrease the 5 stitches for the armhole and my working length is 46cm and not 38cm as the pattern writes. I have done exactly what you write. Why is this? I don't know if Ishould continue. Let me know please. Thank you.

02.05.2023 - 10:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Παπαδοπούλου , in size L you should cast off when piece measures 38 cm, this means you shape armhole (front/back piece) before the end of diagram A.3. And you continue working A.3 to the end over the remaining stitches until piece measures 41 cm then work A.4. Hope it can help. Happy knitting!

02.05.2023 - 14:48