DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 3.40 £ /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

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DROPS Buttons
Round (green) No. 611

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Scottish Thistle Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with relief-pattern and V-neck. Sizes XS - XXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 241-5

#scottishthistlecardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern z-986
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

YARN:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-350-400-400-450-450 g colour 9030, pistachio ice cream
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
125-125-150-150-175-175 g colour 47, pistachio ice cream

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 611: 3-4-4-4-4-4 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
NOTE! First row in A.1 is worked from the wrong side.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit together the 4th and 5th stitch from the edge, make 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
Work the buttonholes when the piece measures:
XS: 11, 20 and 29 cm
S: 11, 17, 24 and 30 cm
M: 10, 17, 24 and 31 cm
L: 11, 18, 25 and 32 cm
XL: 11, 19, 26 and 33 cm
XXL: 11, 19, 27 and 34 cm

DECREASE TIP (for V-neck):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease inside the 8 band stitches:
AFTER 8 BAND STITCHES:
Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
BEFORE 8 BAND STITCHES:
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the band, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches into A.1.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth and bottom up until the ribbing is finished, then the pieces are joined and the body is continued back and forth on circular needle from mid front as far as the armholes. The front and back pieces are then finished separately, back and forth on circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle bottom up as far as the sleeve cap, then finished back and forth on circular needle. The piece is sewn together to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 110-118-126-138-154-166 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm, 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side: 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 12 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 26-30-30-36-40-46 stitches evenly spaced = 84-88-96-102-114-120 stitches. Lay the piece to one side.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 60-68-72-76-84-88 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm, 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side: 8 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, knit 2 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 12 cm. AT THE SAME TIME work the first BUTTONHOLE – read description above. Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 13-17-16-17-19-20 stitches evenly spaced (do not decrease over the band) = 47-51-56-59-65-68 stitches. Lay the piece to one side.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 60-68-72-76-84-88 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm, 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side: 2 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 10 stitches left, knit 2 and 8 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 12 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 13-17-16-17-19-20 stitches evenly spaced (do not decrease over the band) = 47-51-56-59-65-68 stitches.

Place all 3 pieces on circular needle size 5 mm and work the body back and forth as follows:

BODY:
= 178-190-208-220-244-256 stitches. Insert 1 marker-thread 47-51-56-59-65-68 stitches in from each side (= sides of body). There are 84-88-96-102-114-120 stitches between the marker-threads on the back piece. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they are used when working the armholes.
Work the first row from the wrong side as follows: 8 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 8 stitches left, 8 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern – remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
When the piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm, work short rows over the bands as described below. AT THE SAME TIME start to decrease for the V-neck. Then cast off for the armholes. Read V-NECK and ARMHOLES before continuing.

V-NECK:
To avoid the bands “bending” where the V-neck begins, work 3 short rows over both bands. This is done at the same time as you begin to decrease for the neck.
* Start from the right side. Work 1 ridge (2 rows of garter stitch) back and forth over the 8 band stitches (the other stitches are not worked; tighten the strand each time you turn), work 1 complete row as before over all stitches, turn, work 1 ridge back and forth over the other band, work a complete row back as before from the wrong side *, work from *-* 2 more times.
AT THE SAME TIME when working the complete row from the right side for the second time, start to decrease for the neck inside the 8 band stitches – always decrease from the right side – read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease for the neck every 4th row 7 times, then every 2nd row 0-2-4-4-5-6 times.

ARMHOLES:
AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm, cast off for the armholes from the wrong side as follows: Work as before until there are 3-3-3-3-8-8 stitches left before the first marker-thread, cast off 6-6-6-6-16-16 stitches for the armhole (= 3-3-3-3-8-8 stitches on each side of the marker-thread), work the back piece until there are 3-3-3-3-8-8 stitches left before the second marker-thread, cast off 6-6-6-6-16-16 stitches for the armhole (= 3-3-3-3-8-8 stitches on each side of the marker-thread), work to the end of the row. The front and back pieces are finished separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Start from the right side and work as before with 8 band stitches in garter stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch by the armhole – continue the decreases for the neck. After all the decreases for the neck and armhole there are 37-39-42-45-45-47 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. On the next row from the wrong side, cast off the first 29-31-34-37-37-39 stitches for the shoulder = 8 band stitches left on the needle. Continue with garter stitch back and forth over these stitches for a further 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm. The neck should be stretched slightly when sewn to the back of the neck. Cast off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Start from the right side and work as before with 8 band stitches in garter stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch by the armhole – continue the decreases for the neck. After all the decreases for the neck and armhole there are 37-39-42-45-45-47 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. On the next row from the right side, cast off the first 29-31-34-37-37-39 stitches for the shoulder = 8 band stitches left on the needle. Continue with garter stitch back and forth over these stitches for a further 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm. The neck should be stretched slightly when sewn to the back of the neck. Cast off.

BACK PIECE:
= 78-82-90-96-98-104 stitches. Continue the pattern with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm, cast off the middle 18-18-20-20-22-24 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Work as before and cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 29-31-34-37-37-39 stitches on the shoulder. Cast off when the piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 60-64-64-68-68-72 stitches with double pointed needles size 4 mm, 1 strand DROPS Alpaca and 1 strand DROPS Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 12 cm.
Knit 1 round and decrease 14-16-14-16-14-18 stitches evenly spaced = 46-48-50-52-54-54 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round = mid-under sleeve. Allow the thread to follow you work onwards; it is used when increasing under the sleeve. In addition insert 1 marker between the 2 middle stitches on top of the sleeve. Count out from the marker where the pattern starts under the sleeve. The marker should match the middle stitch in A.1.
Work A.1 in the round until the sleeve measures 14-14-14-14-15-15 cm. Increase 2 stitches under the sleeve – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4½-4½-4-3½-2½-2½ cm a total of 8-8-9-10-11-12 times = 62-64-68-71-75-78 stitches. When the sleeve measures 50-49-48-47-44-43 cm, work the sleeve cap back and forth (from the thread under the sleeve). Cast off when the sleeve measures 52-51-50-49-49-48 cm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the cast-off edge. Sew the neck together mid-back and sew the neck to the neck-line. Sew the sleeve caps to the armhole, then sew the split to the bottom of the armhole – see sketch.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= sleeve cap sewn to armhole: Sew a to A and b to B

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
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Comments / Questions (8)

Stella wrote:

Goodevening. I have confused with this paragraphe in the sleeve. When the sleeve measures 50-49-48-47-44-43 cm, work the sleeve cap back and forth (from the thread under the sleeve). Means knitting all the stitches back and forth until 50cm (medium) ;

26.03.2024 - 12:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Stella, it means you should continue with the pattern, but knit it back and forth, so you can form the sleeve cap. Happy Knitting!

26.03.2024 - 22:07

Karine wrote:

Bonjour Est il possible de le faire en un seul bloc, (dos, devant droit et devant gauche), dans ce cas la suffit-il d'additionner tout simplement toutes les mailles ? Merci

07.06.2023 - 10:40

Bonjour Karine, en fait on tricote d'abord chaque partie (dos et chaque devant) séparément à cause des fentes des côtés, et ensuite on les tricote ensemble jusqu'aux emmanchures. Si vous ne voulez pas les fentes des côtés , vous devrez ajuster le nombre de mailles de chaque partie avant de les assembler. Bon tricot!

07.06.2023 - 14:35

Claudia wrote:

Buongiorno, sto facendo questo modello per mia figlia. Taglia m.Sono alle maniche, a 48 cm e sto lavorando con i circolari magic loop . Cosa vuol dire che devo procedere in piano per arrotondamento delle maniche.non ho proprio idea di come fare gli ultimi due centimetri. Grazie

18.03.2023 - 11:02

Buongiorno Claudia, in quel punto le maniche vanno lavorate in piano, non in tondo. Buon lavoro!

18.03.2023 - 15:02

Inge wrote:

Hallo,ich stricke die Jacke in Größe M. Oben beim Hinweis zu den Knopflöchern steht für M: bei 10, 17, 24...cm arbeiten. In der weiteren Beschreibung erfolgt das erste Knopfloch aber nach der Zusammenführung der Teile (also nach einem Bündchen von 12 cm). So sieht es auch auf dem Foto aus. Liebe Grüße!

07.03.2023 - 21:06

Liebe Inge, das erste Knopfloch muss nach 10 cm in M gestrickt werden, dh gleichzeitig wenn man das Rippenmuster strickt, das Rippenmuster stricken Sie bis die Arbeit aber 12 cm misst, dh 2 cm nach dem 1. Knopfloch. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.03.2023 - 09:35

Tina Myhlenfordth Laursen wrote:

Er der ikke en fejl i opskriften ? Ved ryggen - str. XL - står der slå 154 masker op, man skal tage 40 masker UD = 114 masker... så enten er der skrevet forkert og man skal i stedet tage IND eller også skal man enden med 194 masker ? ELLER jeg har helt misforstået et eller andet ? :-)

07.03.2023 - 12:53

Hej Tina. Ja det har dessvärre blivit ett fel där , det ska stå "tage ind". Tack för info, detta är nu rättat. Mvh DROPS Design

07.03.2023 - 13:47

Jenn wrote:

Why did you stop at a XXL and not at a XXXL ?

09.02.2023 - 15:48

Dear Jenn, we are trying to have size for everyone, so some of our patterns are from XS to XXL and some other from S to XXXL - you will find all our jackets in XXXL here. Happy knitting!

10.02.2023 - 14:39

Véronique wrote:

Belle couleur mais largeur des manches pas à mon goût .

18.01.2023 - 19:51

Noelle wrote: