Visit Vienna by DROPS Design

Knitted vest in DROPS Puna. The piece is worked with ribbed edges. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no pu-054
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-100-110-122-134 cm = 33"-36 1/4"-39 3/8"-43 3/8"-48"-52 3/4"
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-100-110-122-134 cm = 33"-36 1/4"-39 3/8"-43 3/8"-48"-52 3/4"
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 03, brown

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Alpaca
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Puna natural DROPS Puna natural 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Puna natural mix DROPS Puna natural mix 4.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Puna uni colour DROPS Puna uni colour 4.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 103 stitches) minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 17) = 5.9.
In this example decrease by knitting together approx. each 5th and 6th stitch. Do not decrease the edge stitches.

DECREASE TIP-2 (armholes):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease at the beginning of row: Work the first 11 stitches as before, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease at the end of row: Work until there are 13 stitches left, knit 2 together and work to end of row (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-3 (neck):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
After the neck: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Before the neck: Work until there are 5 stitches left, knit 2 together and work to end of row (= 1 stitch decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST ¬– SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in sections, back and forth on the needle and then sewn together. The neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 103-113-121-133-149-163 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Puna. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1 (so the pattern is symmetrical) and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 5 cm = 2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side.
Knit 1 row where you decrease 17-19-19-21-25-27 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 86-94-102-112-124-136 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm = 8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8", work pattern as follows from the right side:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 12-12-12-14-16-18 stitches, stockinette stitch until there are 13-13-13-15-17-19 stitches left, purl 1, A.1 over the next 11-11-11-13-15-17 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm = 9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4" (the rib on each side measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" – adjust to work next row from the right side), work as follows:
Bind off the first 4-4-4-6-8-10 stitches for the armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows (bind off with knit) = 78-86-94-100-108-116 stitches.
The next row from the right side is worked as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, pattern as before over the next 8 stitches, work stockinette stitch until there are 9 stitches left, pattern over the next 8 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.
On the next row from the right side, decrease 1 stitch on each side for the armholes – read DECREASE TIP-2!
Decrease like this each row from the right side a total of 1-3-5-6-8-10 times = 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches.
When the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22", bind off the middle 36-36-40-40-44-44 stitches for the neck and each shoulder (= 20-22-22-24-24-26 stitches) is finished separately.
On the next row from the right side, decrease 1 stitch for the neck – read DECREASE TIP-3!
Decrease like this each row from the right side a total of 2 times = 18-20-20-22-22-24 stitches.
Continue with pattern and stockinette stitch until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as for the back piece.
When the piece measures 35-37-37-39-39-41 cm = 13 3/4"-14 1/2"-14 1/2"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-16 1/8" (there are 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches on the needle), place the middle 18-18-20-20-24-24 stitches on a thread for the neck and each shoulder (= 29-31-32-34-34-36 stitches) is finished separately
On the next row from the right side, decrease 1 stitch for the neck – remember DECREASE TIP-3!
Decrease like this each row from the right side a total of 11-11-12-12-12-12 times = 18-20-20-22-22-24 stitches.
Continue with pattern and stockinette stitch until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge. Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch.

NECK:
Start from the right side at one shoulder seam and knit up 120 to 148 stitches (including the stitches from the thread) inside the 1 edge stitch, with short circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Puna. The number of stitches must be divisible by 2; make sure the neck is neither too loose nor too tight. Work A.1 in the round over all stitches for 4½ cm = 1 5/8". Bind off with knit-twisted over knit-twisted and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit-twisted from right side, purl-twisted from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 227-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Joanne S Frediani wrote:

When knitting the gauge swatch, which size needle is supposed to be used to obtain the 10 X 10 cm piece?

03.08.2022 - 04:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Joanne, you should use needle 4,5 mm (US 7) for your gauge swatch. Please note that needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size. Happy knitting!

03.08.2022 kl. 08:48

country flag Marie-Claire wrote:

Bonjour, Que signifie: appartient au groupe de fil B? Ce pull sans manche est très joli, aussi je cherche où au Québec je peux acheter cette laine. La couleur est très belle. Félicitation et merci encore pour tous vos beaux patrons gratuits.

03.06.2022 - 00:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Claire, nos fils à tricoter sont classés selon leur épaisseur par groupes, DROPS Puna appartient au groupe B. Découvrez ici la liste des magasins pour le Canada - contactez Nordic Yarn pour la liste des magasins au Canada. Bon tricot!

03.06.2022 kl. 07:20

country flag Gerda Jersombeck wrote:

Hallo,ich nochmal. Die Halsblende wird doch in Rippen gestrickt ? Gerda

01.06.2022 - 16:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gerda, ja genau - siehe vorrige Antwort. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.06.2022 kl. 17:00

country flag Gerda Jersombeck wrote:

Hallo, das mit der Halsblende verstehe ich nicht. Wenn ich in Runden stricke, gibt es weder Hinreihen noch Rückreihen. Also wie soll ich dann mit den verschränkten Maschen verfahren ? Danke und liebe Grüße Gerda

01.06.2022 - 16:21

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gerda, stimmt! So lesen Sie A.1 jede Runde rechts nach links, dh Bündchen stricken Sie *1 Masche rechts verschränkt, 1 Masche links*, und von *-* wiederholen Sie die ganze Runde (A.1 gilt auch für Rückenteil und Vorderteil, da haben Sie in Reihen gestrickt). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

01.06.2022 kl. 17:00

country flag JulieT wrote:

I am knitting size L. For the Back where you start knitting the A.1 pattern under armholes it says ...work stocking stitch until there are 13 stitches left, purl 1, A.1 over the next 11 stitches... Do I purl 1 and then follow the A.1 pattern exactly ie purl again to start the A1 pattern (so 2 purls) or do I purl 1 and start the pattern with KTBL (twisted knit)? Also coming back I assume that after the first 13 stitches you knit 1, not purl 1?

04.04.2022 - 00:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Julie, After the edge stitch for the armhole in garter stitch you continue the pattern A.1 so it matches the rest of the body (so not necessarily from the beginning). When you work back you follow the instructions for the stitches when they are worked from the wrong side. Happy knitting!

04.04.2022 kl. 06:59

country flag Gun Dahlgren wrote:

Vriden rätmaska från rätsidan? Vriden avigmaska från avigsidan? Hur gör man?

31.03.2022 - 18:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gun. Ta en titt på denne video, den kan hjelpe: Hur man stickar en resår med 1 vridet rät och en avig - fram och tillbaka mvh DROPS Design

04.04.2022 kl. 14:01

country flag Sarah wrote:

Hallo, warum wird die Nadeldtärke nach dem Bund gewechselt? Ist es auch möglich die gleiche Nadel für das ganze Projekt zu verwenden, und wie würde ich dann weiter stricken? Einfach gleiche Maschenzahl oder muss ich noch dazunehmen?

01.03.2022 - 17:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sarah, Bündchen sind immer mit kleineren Nadeln und auch mehr Maschen als mit den grösseren Nadeln gestrickt. Leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen, am besten wenden Sie sich bitte an Ihrem Wollgeschäft oder an einem Strickforum, dort bekommen Sie persönnliche Hilfe; danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.03.2022 kl. 09:22

country flag Diana Young wrote:

Can I use Drops Alpaca instead of Drops Puna

18.02.2022 - 13:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Young, not really since Alpaca belongs yarn group A and Puna yarn group B - you can use our yarn converter to see alternatives or browse our vests worked with a yarn group A - where you can use Alpaca. Happy knitting!

18.02.2022 kl. 14:30

country flag Michelle Forbes wrote:

Thank you so much for your help and speedy response.

14.02.2022 - 11:15

country flag Michelle Forbes wrote:

The neck instructions read cast off 40 (XL)) middle stitches, then later , when picking up stitches for neckband , refer to stitches " included on the thread" . Does this mean the 40 neck stitches are actually put on spare yarn, and picked up as part of the 120 _ 148? The pattern makes no other mention of stitches on the thread.

13.02.2022 - 15:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Michelle, the 20 stitches from the thread are from the front. The neck stitches in the back are picked up over the cast off stitches. Happy knitting!

13.02.2022 kl. 19:41

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