DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
100% Alpaca
from 6.45 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.25CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Knitted vest in DROPS Puna. The piece is worked with ribbed edges. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 227-9
DROPS Design: Pattern no pu-054
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-100-110-122-134 cm = 33"-36 1/4"-39 3/8"-43 3/8"-48"-52 3/4"
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 84-92-100-110-122-134 cm = 33"-36 1/4"-39 3/8"-43 3/8"-48"-52 3/4"
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 03, brown

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
20 stitches in width and 26 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Puna
DROPS Puna
100% Alpaca
from 6.45 CAD /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 32.25CAD.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 103 stitches) minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 17) = 5.9.
In this example decrease by knitting together approx. each 5th and 6th stitch. Do not decrease the edge stitches.

DECREASE TIP-2 (armholes):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
Decrease at the beginning of row: Work the first 11 stitches as before, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease at the end of row: Work until there are 13 stitches left, knit 2 together and work to end of row (= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-3 (neck):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
After the neck: Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 2 stitches in stockinette stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
Before the neck: Work until there are 5 stitches left, knit 2 together and work to end of row (= 1 stitch decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in sections, back and forth on the needle and then sewn together. The neck is worked to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 103-113-121-133-149-163 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Puna. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib from the right side as follows:
1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, work A.1 until there are 2 stitches left, work the first stitch in A.1 (so the pattern is symmetrical) and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 5 cm = 2" – adjust so the next row is from the right side.
Knit 1 row where you decrease 17-19-19-21-25-27 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 86-94-102-112-124-136 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7. Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 22-23-24-25-26-27 cm = 8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8", work pattern as follows from the right side:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 12-12-12-14-16-18 stitches, stockinette stitch until there are 13-13-13-15-17-19 stitches left, purl 1, A.1 over the next 11-11-11-13-15-17 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.
When the piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm = 9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4" (the rib on each side measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" – adjust to work next row from the right side), work as follows:
Bind off the first 4-4-4-6-8-10 stitches for the armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows (bind off with knit) = 78-86-94-100-108-116 stitches.
The next row from the right side is worked as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, pattern as before over the next 8 stitches, work stockinette stitch until there are 9 stitches left, pattern over the next 8 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern.
On the next row from the right side, decrease 1 stitch on each side for the armholes – read DECREASE TIP-2!
Decrease like this each row from the right side a total of 1-3-5-6-8-10 times = 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches.
When the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22", bind off the middle 36-36-40-40-44-44 stitches for the neck and each shoulder (= 20-22-22-24-24-26 stitches) is finished separately.
On the next row from the right side, decrease 1 stitch for the neck – read DECREASE TIP-3!
Decrease like this each row from the right side a total of 2 times = 18-20-20-22-22-24 stitches.
Continue with pattern and stockinette stitch until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as for the back piece.
When the piece measures 35-37-37-39-39-41 cm = 13 3/4"-14 1/2"-14 1/2"-15 1/4"-15 1/4"-16 1/8" (there are 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches on the needle), place the middle 18-18-20-20-24-24 stitches on a thread for the neck and each shoulder (= 29-31-32-34-34-36 stitches) is finished separately
On the next row from the right side, decrease 1 stitch for the neck – remember DECREASE TIP-3!
Decrease like this each row from the right side a total of 11-11-12-12-12-12 times = 18-20-20-22-22-24 stitches.
Continue with pattern and stockinette stitch until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge. Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch.

NECK:
Start from the right side at one shoulder seam and knit up 120 to 148 stitches (including the stitches from the thread) inside the 1 edge stitch, with short circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and DROPS Puna. The number of stitches must be divisible by 2; make sure the neck is neither too loose nor too tight. Work A.1 in the round over all stitches for 4½ cm = 1 5/8". Bind off with knit-twisted over knit-twisted and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP.

Diagram

symbols = knit-twisted from right side, purl-twisted from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (63)

country flag Barbro Efraimsson wrote:

Hej, sände en fråga i måndags, men har fortfarande inte fått svar??

21.03.2024 - 10:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Barbro. Se svar nedan. Mvh DROPS Design

22.03.2024 - 07:56

country flag Barbro Efraimsson wrote:

Detta gäller stickad väst- Visit Vienna i Drops Puma. Bakstycke- När arbetet mäter 22-23- osv. stickas mönster. - när det återstår 13-13-osv. maskor på varvet, står att man ska sticka en avig maska?? innan A1. Stämmer detta, tycker det blir konstigt varven därpå? Mvh Barbro

18.03.2024 - 08:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Barbro. Du fortsätter att sticka den maskan avig från rätsidan och rät från avigsidan på varven under också, Det är för att mönstret ska bli likadant på båda sidor. Mvh DROPS Design

22.03.2024 - 07:56

country flag Patricia wrote:

Which type of cast on do you recommend for this sweater?

06.03.2024 - 21:56

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patricia, use the technique you like, just make sure your cast on edge is not that tight; we most often use the continental method. Happy knitting!

07.03.2024 - 08:09

country flag María wrote:

¿Sería posible encontrar tallas más grandes? La talla más grande de este patrón no me vale. Gracias!

05.01.2024 - 10:45

DROPS Design answered:

Hola María, en caso de que la talla más grande no te valga tendrías que calcular el patrón tú misma. Puedes leer la siguiente página para más información sobre cómo calcular y adaptar el patrón: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=25&cid=23.

07.01.2024 - 15:18

country flag Petra wrote:

I’d like to Knie the vest “visit Vienna” but I’m using a different wool. I’d like to use a cotton. In my gauge using 20 stitches with a 4.5 needle or a 5.5 needle I am at least 3 stitches too many. Can I easily reduce the Stich amount you have given in the pattern?

16.12.2023 - 23:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Petra, do you have a cotton yarn already chosen? You could use DROPS Muskat as a substitute. If you have worked the gauge with the chosen cotton yarn, you can check on how to calculate the pattern according to your gauge here: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=25&cid=19. Happy knitting!

17.12.2023 - 19:13

country flag Randi Graungaard wrote:

Ska jag ha samma antal maskor om jag vill sticka på runt upp till ärmarna Alltså bakstyckets och framstyckets totala antal - eller bör jag dra bort kantmaskorna? Alltså 238 maskor för storlek L

30.11.2023 - 18:33

country flag PILAR VILLAVERDE wrote:

No entiendo cuando hay que hacer las disminuciones de las sisas

21.11.2023 - 04:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Pilar, las disminuciones para la sisa comienzan cuando la labor mide 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm. Primero cierras 4-4-4-6-8-10 puntos al inicio de la siguiente fila, tanto por el lado derecho como por el lado revés. Después trabajar 2 filas (1 por el lado derecho y 1 por el lado revés) con el patrón establecido en la siguiente fila. En la siguiente fila por el lado derecho, disminuyes 1 punto a cada lado como se explica en TIP-2 PARA LAS DISMINUCIONES (disminuyes 1 punto al inicio y 1 punto al final de la fila). Repetir esta disminución siempre por el lado derecho hasta haber disminuido a cada lado 1-3-5-6-8-10 veces en total (incluyendo la primera vez ahora explicada).

26.11.2023 - 23:18

country flag Yolanda wrote:

Quiero saber como encontrar las medidas en cm de vuestros patrones para saber cual es la talla que tengo que elegir

01.11.2023 - 13:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Yolanda, después de las explicaciones del patrón y los diagramas, puedes encontrar el esquema de medidas, con todas las medidas de la prenda en cm. Para más información puedes leer la siguiente lección: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=24&cid=23.

05.11.2023 - 19:06

country flag Marianne Rasmussen wrote:

Kære Drops! Jeg forstår ikke diagrammet - mangler der ikke noget ? Det er jo bare et blankt diagram med nogle tal i siden - det fremgår da på ingen måde hvornår man strikker drejet ret fra retsidens, drejet vrang fra vrangen eller vrang fra retsiden, ret fra vrangen🤔🤔🤔

29.10.2023 - 10:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marianne. Nei, det mangler ingenting. Målskissen du ser, viser cm målene på vesten. Over målskissen ser du diagrammet (A.1), den viser deg hvordan strukturen i vesten skal strikke. Når du skal strikke A.1, er det forklart i oppskriften. A.1 viser alle pinnene i mønsteret sett fra retten. Usikker på hvordan lese et diagram? Gå til: Tips & Hjælp / DROPS lektioner / Læs en opskrift / Hvordan læses strikkediagrammer. Usikker på hvordan strikke drejet ret fra retsiden og drejet vrang fra vrangen, ta en titt på hjelpevideoene som er linket til oppskriften (nederst, under Behøver du hjælp med opskriften?). mvh DROPS Design

30.10.2023 - 09:42

country flag Mie Henriette Lund Steinhart wrote:

Opskriften siger der skal strikkes i retstrik men på billederne ligner det glatstrik. Kan I bekræfte hvilken en det er?

28.08.2023 - 18:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mie, vesten skal strikkes i glatstrik. Det står når du kommer til det glatstrikkede, i stykket som står beskrevet under Bagstykket :)

08.09.2023 - 15:17