Mariposa by DROPS Design

Knitted top in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with garter stitch, lace pattern and short puffed sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no e-318
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 76-82-90-100-110-120 cm = 29 1/2"-32 1/4"-35 1/2"-39 3/8"-43 3/8"-47 1/4"
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 18, off white

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4”.
24 stitches in width and 48 rows in height with garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32” for garter stitch.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches to be increased over (e.g. 44 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 2) = 22.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 22nd stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there is 1 stitch left before A.1, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, work A.1, knit 1, 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased).
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.1 as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before A.1, knit 2 together, work A.1, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. The front and back pieces are worked separately until the garter stitch sections are finished. Then they are joined and the body is continued in the round. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 94-94-100-100-106-106 stitches with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and Safran. Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Insert 1 marker in the 23rd-23rd-25th-25th-27th-27th stitch in from each side (= 48-48-50-50-52-52 stitches between marker-stitches).
Work GARTER STITCH back and forth – read description above, at the same time on the first row, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker-stitches (= 4 stitches increased on the row) – increase by making 1 yarn over. On the next row, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 14-17-17-19-19-21 times = 150-162-168-176-182-190 stitches. Knit 1 row back from the wrong side after the last increase. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
The piece now measures 6-7-7-8-8-9 cm = 2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2". The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Loosely bind off the first 37-40-42-44-46-48 stitches (= shoulder), knit 76-82-84-88-90-94 (the first of these stitches is already on the right needle) and increase 0-0-0-2-4-8 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP-1, loosely bind off the last 37-40-42-44-46-48 stitches (= shoulder). Cut the strand.
Now work garter stitch back and forth over the 76-82-84-90-94-102 stitches, at the same time as you cast on stitches for the armholes at the end of each row as follows:
Cast on 1-1-1-1-2-2 stitches 4 times on each side = 84-90-92-98-110-118 stitches.
Cut the strand and lay the piece to one side.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 70-70-76-76-82-82 stitches with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and Safran. Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Insert 1 marker in the 11th-11th-13th-13th-15th-15th stitch in from each side (= 48-48-50-50-52-52 stitches between marker-stitches).
Work garter stitch back and forth, at the same time on the first row, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker-stitches (= 4 stitches increased on the row) – increase by making 1 yarn over. On the next row, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Increase like this every 2nd row a total of 14-17-17-19-19-21 times = 126-138-144-152-158-166 stitches. Knit 1 row back from the wrong side after the last increase.
The piece measures approx. 6-7-7-8-8-9 cm = 2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2". The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Loosely bind off the first 25-28-30-32-34-36 stitches (= shoulder), knit 76-82-84-88-90-94 (the first of these stitches is already on the right needle) and increase 0-0-0-2-4-8 stitches evenly over these stitches, loosely bind off the last 25-28-30-32-34-36 (= shoulder). Cut the strand.
Continue with garter stitch back and forth over the 76-82-84-90-94-102 stitches for 5 cm = 2".
Cast on stitches for the armholes at the end of each row as follows:
Cast on 1-1-1-1-2-2 stitches 4 times = 84-90-92-98-110-118 stitches. Insert 1 marker mid-back (= 42-45-46-49-55-59 stitches on each side).

BODY:
Now the 2 pieces are joined together, working from the right side. Start mid-back with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work as follows:
Work the first 42-45-46-49-55-59 stitches, cast on 7-9-17-21-21-25 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the 84-90-92-98-110-118 stitches from the front piece onto the needle, cast on 7-9-17-21-21-25 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the last 42-45-46-49-55-59 stitches on the back piece. There are 182-198-218-238-262-286 stitches on the round. Work stockinette stitch in the round and working A.1 over the 7 stitches mid-under both sleeves.
When the piece measures 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/2" from the armholes, decrease 1 stitch on each side of A.1 in both sides – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½ cm = 1” a total of 6 times = 158-174-194-214-238-262 stitches. When the piece measures 18 cm = 7", increase 1 stitch on both sides of A.1 – read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 2 cm = 3/4" a total of 6 times = 182-198-218-238-262-286 stitches. When the piece measures approx. 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm = 12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8"-13 3/4"-14 1/4" – adjust so you finish after a complete repeat of A.1 in height, change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work 2 cm = 3/4" with GARTER STITCH in the round – read description above. Then bind off loosely with knit – read BINDING-OFF TIP. The top measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 33-33-37-37-40-40 stitches with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and Safran.
Knit 1 row. Then work the next row from the wrong side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl until there is 1 stitch left on the row, at the same time as you increase 24-24-26-26-29-29 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP-1, and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 57-57-63-63-69-69 stitches.
Now work pattern and increase as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.2 over the next 3 stitches, A.3 over the next 48-48-54-54-60-60 stitches (= 8-8-9-9-10-10 repeats of 6 stitches), A.4 over the next 4 stitches and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern back and forth – each time the diagrams are completed, you have increased 12 stitches and there is room for 2 more repeats of A.3 between A.2 and A.4.

When you have worked the diagrams 6-6-6-6½-6½-6½ times in height there are 129-129-135-141-147-147 stitches on the needle. The sleeve measures approx. 15-15-15-16-16-16 cm = 6"-6"-6"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4" from the cast-on edge. The next row from the right side is worked as follows: Knit all stitches and cast on 7-9-17-21-21-25 stitches at the end of the row = 136-138-152-162-168-172 stitches. Now continue in the round and work 2 ridges. Bind off – remember BINDING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures 16-16-16-17-17-17 cm = 6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4"-6 3/4".
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Fit the sleeve evenly into the armhole, with the cast-on edge (33-33-37-37-40-40 stitches) covering 7-7-8-8-9-9 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2" on each side of the shoulder seam. Fit the rest of the sleeve around the armhole – Sew inside the cast-on edge on the sleeve and the bind-off edge on the body.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn twisted over to avoid a hole
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 222-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (52)

country flag Minna wrote:

Hei, voinko lähettää teille kuvan/kuvia työstä? En ole varma teinkö virheen kun etu- ja takakappale yhdistettiin ja koossa L piti lisätä yht. 34 silmukkaa. Silmämääräisesti näyttää siltä että lopussa tulee ongelma kun olkasaumat yhdistetään eikä käsi mahdu läpi. En uskalla jatkaa nyt työtä jos hihansuut ovat väärin tehdyt.

18.06.2022 - 06:19

country flag Pernille Richards wrote:

Hi, I am doing 222-20 in large and have just reached the shaping the shoulder part. Please can you clarify if I have misunderstood the pattern please. 100 to start, then 4 increases after placing stich markers, then 17x 4=68,. In total 172, yet the pattern says 168. Is the first row included in the 17 repeats? Obviously I now have 4 stichees too many for the shoulder cast off instructions. Thanks for your clarification.

29.05.2022 - 22:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Pernille, You include the first increase in the 17 increases = 68 increased stitches in total and 168 stitches. Happy knitting!

30.05.2022 kl. 07:03

country flag MARGHERITA PETAZZO wrote:

FORSE HO CAPITO. IL SEGNAPUNTI E' LA 25^ MAGLIA. QUINDI GLI AUMENTI SONO PRIMA E DOPO LA 25^ MAGLIA VERO? GRAZIE

12.05.2022 - 22:44

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Margherita, sì, il segnapunti è NELLA maglia. Buon lavoro!

17.05.2022 kl. 18:50

country flag MARGHERITA PETAZZO wrote:

NEL PUNTO: aumentare una maglia a ogni lato di entrambi i segnapunti. Significa che ci saranno due aumenti uno accanto all'altro. GIUSTO???

12.05.2022 - 22:27

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Margerita, i 2 gettati sono separati da una maglia perchè il segnapunti è NELLA maglia. Buon lavoro!

17.05.2022 kl. 18:49

country flag Ilona wrote:

In het mouw ajourpatroon houd ik in de 5e toer 2 steken over aan het eind van de toer. Mist er iets in het patroon?

27.04.2022 - 17:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ilona,

Je breit 1 kant steek, dan brei je A.2 (3 steken), dan herhaal je A.3 steeds tot er 5 steken over zijn, dan brei je A.4 en tot slot nog 1 kantsteek. Als je het patroon steeds blijft volgen zou je geen steken over moeten houden. Na een hele herhaling van de patronen in de hoogte, zijn er zoveel steken bij gekomen dat je automatisch meer herhalingen van A.3 in e breedte maakt.

04.05.2022 kl. 08:43

country flag Sabrina wrote:

Hejsa. Hvor meget “ease” skal der være i størrelsen?

16.01.2022 - 05:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sabrina, det er en smags sag. Du finder tøjets mål i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften. Holder du strikkefastheden som står i opskriften, får du disse mål :)

17.01.2022 kl. 13:55

country flag Bente Bloch wrote:

Jeg er ved at strikke model 222-20. Jeg har strikket bullen og det ene ærme, men jeg syntes at ærmet bliver alt for stort i forhold til kroppen - altså delene som skal sys sammen. Jeg syntes at de passer bedre sammen, hvid jeg ikke slår masker op på undersiden af ærmet. Hvordan får jeg det til at passe sammen? - Jeg overvejer at lave det andet ærme uden opslag og så se hvordan det bliver.

28.07.2021 - 19:02

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Bente, ja men du bestemmer selv om du vil have det lille pufærme som er i opskriften. Vi kan dog ikke hjælpe dig med at skrive opskriften om. Spørg gerne i butikken hvor du har købt dit DROPS garn :)

06.08.2021 kl. 14:19

country flag María Del Carmen Vargas Batista wrote:

Buenas tardes, tengo una duda que no me deja avanzar el proyecto. En la espalda cuando dice el patrón : Continuar con el punto musgo de ida y vuelta sobre los 76-82-84-90-94-102 puntos 5 cm Montar los puntos para las sisas al final de cada fila como sigue: Tengo que tener 5cm. de punto musgo y después montar los puntos para la sisa ? O aumentarlos en esos 5 cm ? Gracias

23.07.2021 - 16:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Maria, tienes que tener 5 cm de punto musgo y después empezar a montar los puntos para la sisa. Buen trabajo!

27.07.2021 kl. 16:21

country flag Liliane wrote:

Je ne comprend pas comment positionner les 7 mailles du schema A.1. Dois-je les prendre a prtir des 17 mailles ajoutees? Merci de votre aide.

23.07.2021 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Liliane, en L, vous allez tricoter A.1 au milieu des 17 mailles montées sous les manches ainsi: tricotez les 5 premières de ces 17 m à l'endroit, tricotez A.1 et tricotez les 5 dernières de ces 17 m à l'endroit, répétez de l'autre côté. Bon tricot!

23.07.2021 kl. 16:03

country flag Marguérite wrote:

In het patroon van Mariposa drops 222-20 staat: Voorpand: ena laatste alinea: brei nu ribbelsteek heen en weer gebreid over de 76 etc steken, terwijl u tegelijkertijd steken opzet voor de armsgaten aan het einde van elke naald als volgt: Zet 4 keer etc. Bij het achterpand staat in ena laatste alinea: Ga verder met ribbelsteek heen en weer gebreid over de 76 ect steken voor 5 cm. Moet ik dan 5cm breien, dus dan wordt het achterpand langer dan het voorpand ?

22.06.2021 - 14:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marguérite,

Bij het achterpand is de hals hoger, waardoor je nog een extra 5 cm aan het eind moet breien. Dus na die 5 cm zet je pas steken op voor het armsgat, bij het achterpand

24.06.2021 kl. 10:46

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