DROPS / 222 / 22

Incoming Tide by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, raglan, flounces, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Incoming Tide / DROPS 222-22 - Knitted jacket in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, raglan, flounces, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Incoming Tide / DROPS 222-22 - Knitted jacket in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, raglan, flounces, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Incoming Tide / DROPS 222-22 - Knitted jacket in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, raglan, flounces, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Incoming Tide / DROPS 222-22 - Knitted jacket in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. The piece is worked top down with round yoke, raglan, flounces, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no bs-166
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour 0100, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM: For flounce-edges

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 5-6-6-6-6-7 items.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 131 stitches), minus the bands (e.g.10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 36) = 3.4. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch (do not increase on the bands). On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch and each 3rd and 4th stitch.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the markers, in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before marker, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. A total of 8 stitches increased on each increase-row.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 2 cm. Then work the other 4-5-5-5-5-6 buttonholes with approx. 9-8-8½-9-9½-8 cm between each one.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. Flounce-edges are worked to finish and crocheted/sewn to the jacket and sleeves.

NECK:
Cast on 131-135-139-145-149-155 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Baby Alpaca Silk. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm – remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above. 
When the rib is finished, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 36-36-36-38-38-40 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 167-171-175-183-187-195 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (yarn overs purled twisted and bands worked in garter stitch).
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Now work pattern as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 156-160-164-172-176-184 stitches (= 39-40-41-43-44-46 repeats of 4 stitches), A.2 over the next stitch, 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this. At the same time on the rows with arrows in A.1 increase stitches evenly as follows:
Arrow-1: Increase 28-28-28-32-36-36 stitches = 195-199-203-215-223-231 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 52-54-56-56-66-64 stitches = 247-253-259-271-289-295 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 and A.2 have been completed in height continue as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 1, A.3A over the next 3 stitches, A.3B over the next 228-234-240-252-270-276 stitches (= 38-39-40-42-45-46 repeats of 6 stitches), A.3C over the next 4 stitches, knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern back and forth until A.3A - A.3C have been worked 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in height, then work the first 6 rows in the diagrams. Now continue as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 1, A.4A over the next 3 stitches, A.4B over the next 228-234-240-252-270-276 stitches (= 38-39-40-42-45-46 repeats of 6 stitches), A.4C over the next 4 stitches, knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.4A to A.4B have been completed in height, the piece measures approx. 13-13-13-15-15-15 cm from the marker on the neck.
On the next row (right side) increase 31-41-51-63-61-67 stitches evenly spaced = 278-294-310-334-350-362 stitches.
Insert 4 markers without working the stitches as follows:
Marker 1: Count 47-50-52-56-60-63 stitches, insert marker here (= in transition between left front piece and left sleeve).
Marker 2: Count 50-52-56-60-60-60 stitches, insert marker here (= in transition between left sleeve and back piece).
Marker 3: Count 84-90-94-102-110-116 stitches, insert marker here (= in transition between back piece and right sleeve).
Marker 4: Count 50-52-56-60-60-60 stitches, insert marker here (= in transition between right sleeve and right front piece).
There are 47-50-52-56-60-63 stitches left after marker 4 (= right front piece).
Work stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. At the same time, on the next row from the right side begin to increase for RAGLAN – read description above. Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of 10-11-14-15-18-19 times = 358-382-422-454-494-514 stitches.
Continue working without further increases until the piece measures 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm.
Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next row as follows:
Work the first 57-61-66-71-78-82 stitches (= front piece), place the next 70-74-84-90-96-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-8-8-10-10-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the next 104-112-122-132-146-154 stitches (= back piece), place the next 70-74-84-90-96-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-8-8-10-10-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the last 57-61-66-71-78-82 stitches.
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 230-250-270-294-322-342 stitches. Work stocking stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 22 cm from the division, increase 45-49-53-59-65-69 stitches evenly spaced = 275-299-323-353-387-411 stitches. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When the rib measures 3 cm, cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CASTING-OFF TIP. The jacket measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 70-74-84-90-96-98 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-8-8-10-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches.
Start in the middle of the 6-8-8-10-10-12 stitches under the sleeve and work stocking stitch in the round until the sleeve measures 17-15-14-12-11-9 cm from the division (there is approx. 6 cm left to finished length, you can try the jacket on and work to desired length). NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round where you decrease 14-18-24-30-34-36 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 62-64-68-70-72-74 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP! The sleeve measures approx. 23-21-20-18-17-15 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

FLOUNCE-EDGE, YOKE:
Crochet 284-291-298-312-333-340 chain stitches (including 5 chain stitches to turn) using crochet hook size 3.5 mm and Baby Alpaca Silk. Turn and work as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in the 6th chain stitch from the hook, * 2 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the next chain stitch *, work from *-* to end of row.
Lay the flounce-edge on the right side of the piece so it lies evenly along the bottom edge of the lace pattern, i.e. A.4A - A.4C.
Tack the flounce in place.
The flounce should be attached with the chain stitch edge towards the right side of the garment and can either be sewn or crocheted to the yoke as follows:

Attach with sewing:
Work from the wrong side as follows: Fasten the thread in the outermost decrease towards the band (i.e. A.4A) and sew a stitch between the 2 outermost treble crochets on the flounce, * baste along the bottom edge of the lace pattern (do not sew in the flounce) as far as the next decrease in the pattern (i.e. triangle in A.4B), sew a stitch around the decrease and between the 6th and 7th treble crochet after the last time the flounce was fastened to the piece *, repeat from *-* as far as the band on the other side, finishing with a stitch in the last decrease before the band (= A.4C); it is important the seam is not tight as this will make the garment less elastic.

Attach with crocheting:
Work from the wrong side using hook size 3.5 mm as follows: Fasten the strand with a double crochet in the outermost decrease towards the band (i.e. A.4A), insert the hook through the garment (from the wrong side to the right side - the strand stays on the wrong side), then insert the hook between the 2 outermost treble crochets on the flounce and then back through to the wrong side of the garment, make 1 yarn over and pull the strand through the loops on the hook so the flounce is attached to the yoke *, work 8 chain stitches (on the wrong side of the garment), skip to the next decrease on the yoke (triangle in A.4B), insert the hook through the garment (from the wrong side to the right side - the strand stays on the wrong side), then insert the hook between the 6th and 7th treble crochet after the last time the flounce was attached to the garment, and then back to the wrong side of the garment, make 1 yarn over and pull the strand through the loops on the hook so the flounce is attached to the yoke *, repeat from *-* as far as to the band on the other side, finishing by fastening the strand in the last decrease before the band (= A.4C); it is important the seam is not tight as this will make the garment less elastic.

FLOUNCE-EDGE, SLEEVE:
Work 67-67-74-74-81-81 chain stitches (including 5 chain stitches to turn) using hook size 3.5 mm and Baby Alpaca Silk. Turn and work as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in the 6th chain stitch from the hook, * 2 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the next chain stitch *, work from *-* to the end of the row.
The flounce can either be sewn or crocheted in the top round of rib on the sleeve.
Sew or crochet in the same way as on the yoke, and skip 7 treble crochets on the flounce and approx. 7 stitches between each time the flounce is fastened to the sleeve. The strand is fastened around a stitch rather than around a decrease as on the yoke.
Make sure the seam is not tight.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = knit from wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = increase-row – read description in text
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 222-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Pat Merrithew 14.04.2021 - 23:43:

I am looking for the "downlaod" link of the Incoming Tide jacket...where is it?

user icon DROPS Design 15.04.2021 kl. 02:54:

Dear Pat, to download the pattern, click on the PRINT icon below the list of tools and materials, then select print as PDF. Happy Knitting!

country flag LASNE Marie-Andrée 08.04.2021 - 06:14:

Nous sommes d'accord sur 1 point, 41 attaches.... donc 40 ponts de 7 brides! 1 bride à chaque extrémité, mais pour 2 attaches, il n'y a qu'un pont de 7 brides, pour 3, il y en a 2, etc.... merci mais je vais refaire mon volant plus court. Je continuerai à tricoter ou crocheter vos modèles, ils sont très jolis et variés, merci de votre attention et de vos réponses rapides

user icon DROPS Design 08.04.2021 kl. 08:00:

Bonjour Mme Lasne, regardez bien la vidéo pour attacher le volant, elle devrait vous permettre de l'attacher comme il faut avec le bon nombre d'attaches - Bonne continuation!

country flag Marie-Andrée Lasne 04.04.2021 - 10:47:

Bonjour, merci pour votre réponse mais elle ne correspond pas à mon problème:j'ai un volant trop long, pour 39 triangles, il faut faire 40 ponts de 7 brides, plus 1 bride pour fixer, plus 5 mailles qui font la première bride pour fixer l'autre côté, soit 7x40+1+5=286 m, or vous dites de monter 291 m...

user icon DROPS Design 07.04.2021 kl. 08:34:

Bonjour Mme Lasne, vous crochetez 291 ml et avez un total de 287 brides divisés par 7= 41 points d'attache ; vous les fixez sur le rang de A.4A-B-C soit 41 diminutions ( les 39 de A.4B + celle de A.4A et de A.4C). Bonne continuation!

country flag Marie-Andrée Lasne 28.03.2021 - 21:55:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas comment on fixe le volant: j'ai crocheté en taille M les 291 m, j'ai fixé au crochet à la première diminution puis à chaque pointe des 39 triangles toutes les 7 brides... et j'ai trop de longueur de volant! Ai-je mal compris?Pourquoi ne pas crocheter directement le volant sur le gilet?p

user icon DROPS Design 28.03.2021 kl. 22:56:

Bonjour Marie-Andree, relardez les 2 videos sur ce sujet ICI et ICI. Bon travail!

country flag PASCAL 18.03.2021 - 05:27:

Bonjour, merci pour votre réponse rapide. J’ai compris mon erreur. Je faisais deux fois consécutives 3 m ensembles. Tout est rentré dans l’ordre . Je prends note de votre explication qui éclaircit le diagramme. Merci à vous.

country flag PASCAL 17.03.2021 - 11:26:

Bonjour, j’ai une difficulté au paragraphe Empiècement. À la partie A.3A - A.3C à tricoter 2 fois sur la hauteur, je n’obtiens pas les 247 mailles totales. En effet, le 3ème rang le diagramme A.3B montre qu’il faut tricoter 3 mailles ensembles, or ces 3 mailles sont à cheval sur les parties A et B et à cheval sur les parties B et C. Comment dois-je lire et tricoter cette partie ? Merci de votre aide.

user icon DROPS Design 17.03.2021 kl. 13:16:

Bonjour Pascal, au 3ème rang, vous allez tricoter la dernière maille de A.3A avec les 2 premières mailles de A.3 B (= on a toujours bien 3 m dans A); puis glissez la dernière m de A.3B et tricotez -la avec les 2 premières mailles du A.3B suivant et de A.3C à la fin du rang. Vous aurez ainsi le bon nombre de mailles; soit en S: 5 m point mousse, 1 m end, 3 m de A.3A, 228 m de A.3B (=38 foisx6m), 4 m de A.3c, 1 m end et 5 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

country flag Jacqueline 01.03.2021 - 15:29:

222-22 Bonjour je ne comprends pas le diagramme? Je ne vois pas où sont les motifs de 4 si chaque ligne correspond à un rang; c’est un point mousse, il y a juste une petite différence entre A 1 et A2, faut-il enchaîner les deux ou faire ran g 1 A1, rang 2 A2 etc? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 01.03.2021 kl. 16:08:

Bonjour Jacquleine, les diagrammes montrent les rangs sur l'endroit, A.1 et A.2 commencent effectivement par 4 rangs endroit (= 1 rang end sur l'end + 1 rang end sur l'env)x2 - 1 case blanche = 1 rang jersey endroit. Vous tricotez d'abord A.1 et terminez par A.2 pour que le motif soit symétrique; autrement dit: 5 m point mousse, répétez A.1, terminez par A.2 et 5 m point mousse. Bon tricot!

country flag Astrid 11.01.2021 - 15:31:

Verspieltes Jäcklein mit toller Schulterpartie sehr schön

country flag Beate Marie Breili 10.01.2021 - 19:01:

"Sommerbris" må være et fint navn på denne. Nydelig design og min absolutte favoritt i år :) Gratulerer til designeren !

country flag Marioli 07.01.2021 - 22:59:

Chaqueta muy romántica, ideal para entretiempo y noches frescas de verano

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