DROPS / 222 / 21

Incoming Tide Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke, raglan, flounces, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Incoming Tide Sweater / DROPS 222-21 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke, raglan, flounces, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Incoming Tide Sweater / DROPS 222-21 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke, raglan, flounces, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Incoming Tide Sweater / DROPS 222-21 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke, raglan, flounces, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Incoming Tide Sweater / DROPS 222-21 - Knitted jumper in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down, with round yoke, raglan, flounces, lace pattern and ¾-length sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-925
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour 100, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for stocking stitch/pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 MM: For flounce-edges

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
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DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 120 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 36) = 3.3. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 3rd and 4th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. When decreasing, knit together alternately each 2nd and 3rd and each 3rd and 4th stitch.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the markers, in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before marker, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. A total of 8 stitches increased on each increase-round.

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off; the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down from mid back. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.
Flounce-edges are crocheted to finish and sewn onto the yoke and sleeves.

NECK:
Cast on 120-124-128-134-138-144 stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and Alpaca. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (knit 1, purl 1) in the round for 3 cm.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 round where you increase 36-36-36-38-38-40 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 156-160-164-172-176-184 stitches. Knit 1 round (yarn overs knitted twisted).
Change to circular needle size 3 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Now work pattern as follows:
Work A.1 for the whole round (= 39-40-41-43-44-46 repeats of 4 stitches).
At the same time, on the rounds with arrows, increase evenly as follows:
Arrow-1: Increase 28-28-28-32-36-36 stitches = 184-188-192-204-212-220 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 50-52-54-54-64-62 stitches = 234-240-246-258-276-282 stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When A.1 has been completed in height, continue with A.2 (= 39-40-41-43-46-47 repeats of 6 stitches). On round 3 in A.2, move the beginning of the round 1 stitch to the right, so you can work the first symbol in the diagram.
Continue working until the diagram has been worked 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in height, then work the first 6 rounds in the diagram.
Now work A.3 over each repeat of A.2.
When A.3 has been completed in height, the piece measures approx. 13-13-13-15-15-15 cm.
On the next round, increase 34-44-54-66-64-70 stitches evenly spaced = 268-284-300-324-340-352 stitches.
Insert 4 markers, without working the piece, as follows:
Marker 1: Count 42-45-47-51-55-58 stitches, insert marker here (= in transition between back piece and right sleeve).
Marker 2: Count 50-52-56-60-60-60 stitches, insert marker here (= in transition between right sleeve and front piece).
Marker 3: Count 84-90-94-102-110-116 stitches, insert marker here (= in transition between front piece and left sleeve).
Marker 4: Count 50-52-56-60-60-60 stitches, insert marker here (= in transition between left sleeve and front piece).
There are 42-45-47-51-55-58 stitches left after marker 4.
Work stocking stitch in the round. At the same time, on the next round start to increase for RAGLAN – read description above. Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 10-11-14-15-18-19 times = 348-372-412-444-484-504 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 20-22-24-26-28-30 cm.
Now divide the yoke for the body and sleeves on the next round as follows:
Work the first 52-56-61-66-73-77 stitches (= ½ back piece), place the next 70-74-84-90-96-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-8-8-10-10-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the next 104-112-122-132-146-154 stitches (= front piece), place the next 70-74-84-90-96-98 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-8-8-10-10-12 stitches (= in side under sleeve), work the last 52-56-61-66-73-77 stitches (= ½ back piece).
Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= 220-240-260-284-312-332 stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round until the piece measures 22 cm from the division. There is approx. 3 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 round where you increase 44-48-52-58-64-68 stitches evenly spaced = 264-288-312-342-376-400 stitches. Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. The jumper measures approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 70-74-84-90-96-98 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-8-8-10-10-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-82-92-100-106-110 stitches.
Start the round in the middle of the 6-8-8-10-10-12 stitches under the sleeve and work stocking stitch in the round until the sleeve measures 17-15-14-12-11-9 cm from the division (There is approx. 6 cm left to finished length; try the jumper on and work to desired length). NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round where you decrease 14-18-24-30-34-36 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 62-64-68-70-72-74 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CASTING-OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx 23-21-20-18-17-15 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

FLOUNCE-EDGE, YOKE:
Crochet 277-284-291-305-326-333 chain stitches (including 5 chain stitches to turn) using crochet hook size 3.5 mm and Alpaca. Turn and work as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, * 2 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the next chain stitch *, work from *-* to end of row.
Lay the flounce-edge on the right side of the piece so it lies evenly along the bottom edge of the lace pattern, i.e. A.3.
Tack the flounce in place.
The flounce should be attached with the chain stitch edge towards the right side of the garment and can either be sewn or crocheted to the yoke as follows:

ATTACH WITH SEWING:
Work from the wrong side as follows: Fasten the thread in the decrease (i.e. triangle in A.3) mid-back of the jumper, and sew a stitch between the 2 outermost treble crochets on the flounce. Thread the strand back to the wrong side, * baste along the bottom edge of the lace pattern (do not sew in the flounce) as far as the next decrease in the pattern (i.e. triangle in next repeat of A.3), take the needle around this decrease and then between the 6th and 7th treble crochets after the last time the flounce was fastened to the piece, thread the strand back to the wrong side *, repeat from *-* the whole round; it is important the seam is not tight as this will make the garment less elastic. Fasten the strand.

ATTACH WITH CROCHETING:
Work from the wrong side using hook size 3.5 mm as follows: Fasten the strand with a double crochet around the decrease (i.e. triangle in A.3) mid back of the jumper, insert the hook through the garment (from the wrong side to the right side - the strand stays on the wrong side), then insert the hook between the 2 outermost treble crochets on the flounce and then back through to the wrong side of the garment, make 1 yarn over and pull the strand through the loops on the hook so the flounce is attached to the yoke *, work 8 chain stitches (on the wrong side of the garment), skip to the next decrease on the yoke (triangle in A.3), insert the hook through the garment (from the wrong side to the right side - the strand stays on the wrong side), then insert the hook between the 6th and 7th treble crochet after the last time the flounce was attached to the garment, and then back to the wrong side of the garment, make 1 yarn over and pull the strand through the loops on the hook so the flounce is attached to the yoke *, repeat from *-* for the whole round - it is important the seam is not tight as this will make the garment less elastic.
Fasten the strand.


FLOUNCE-EDGE, SLEEVE:
Work 67-67-74-74-81-81 chain stitches (including 5 chain stitches to turn) using hook size 3.5 mm and Alpaca. Turn and work as follows:
Work 1 treble crochet in the 6th chain stitch from the hook, * 2 chain stitches, 1 treble crochet in the next chain stitch *, work from *-* to the end of the row.
The flounce can either be sewn or crocheted in the top round of rib on the sleeve.
Sew or crochet in the same way as on the yoke, and skip 7 treble crochets on the flounce and approx. 7 stitches between each time the flounce is fastened to the sleeve. The strand is fastened around a stitch rather than around a decrease as on the yoke.
Make sure the seam is not tight.

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = increase-round – read description in text
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 222-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Trp 19.03.2021 - 09:14:

What a beautiful pattern

country flag Trp 19.03.2021 - 09:13:

What a beautiful pattern

country flag Margarita 16.03.2021 - 15:23:

El diagrama A2 pienso que tiene un fallo, tejiendo siguiendo las instrucciones no queda igual a la foto. He rectificado tejiendo las pasadas retorcidas en las vueltas 3 y 7 y así si queda igual al no formarse el agujero. No se si queda bien expuesto.

user icon DROPS Design 21.03.2021 kl. 19:58:

Hola Margarita, mandaremos tu sugerencia al departamento de diseño para ver si se trata de algún fallo.

country flag Edith 10.03.2021 - 18:48:

Je ne comprends pas ce passage Continuer jusqu'à ce que le diagramme ait été tricoté 2-2-2-3-3-3 fois en hauteur, tricoter ensuite les 6 premiers tours dans le diagramme. Les 6 premiers tours est de reprendre le A1 ou A2

user icon DROPS Design 11.03.2021 kl. 08:05:

Bonjour Edith, vous répétez 2 à 3 fois A.2 (cf taille) puis tricotez juste les les 6 premiers rangs de A.2. Bon tricot!

country flag Stamou Panagiota 07.03.2021 - 13:18:

Hallo Brauche Ihre Hilfe muss ich bei A2 Diagramm die umschlägt so wie sie kommen stricken mit Löcher oder rechts verschränkt im Foto sehe ich am muster löcher wenn ich rechts verschränkt stricke gibt es keine löcher bitte für Anfänger die Anleitungen ausführlich erklären

user icon DROPS Design 08.03.2021 kl. 09:09:

Liebe Frau Panagiota, die Umschläge in A.2 (sowie in A.1 und A.3) werden bei der nächsten Runde rechts gestrickt damit Löcher entstehen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Janka 26.02.2021 - 13:40:

Chciałabym zrobić ten sweter z długimi rękawami, czy wystarczy 350 g włóczki i czy zamknąć tyle samo oczek jak w przypadki rękawów 3/4?

user icon DROPS Design 26.02.2021 kl. 16:21:

Witaj Janko, ja dla bezpieczeństwa dodałabym 1 motek włóczki. Na rękawy zamykasz oczka tam samo, tylko wykonujesz je dłuższe. Pozdrawiamy!

country flag Mimi 05.02.2021 - 10:50:

J'ai hâte d'avoir l'explication, il est magnifique

country flag Tatjana 20.01.2021 - 22:24:

Nefeli

country flag Jo 20.01.2021 - 02:07:

"Prairie Dreamer"

country flag Na12 15.01.2021 - 06:16:

Ruffled daisy

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