DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS AW2425

Bronze Summer

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted top down with raglan, lace pattern and V-neck. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:
DROPS 221-4

#bronzesummercardigan

DROPS design: Pattern ai-315
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g colour no 02, wheat

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 60 or 80 cm for edges in stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

DROPS BUTTON, Marble NR 629: 5-5-5-5-5-5 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of 1 stitch in stocking stitch (stitch with marker thread) in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on row). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

V-NECK:
All increases are done from the right side.
Make 1 yarn over inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= 1 stitch increased) in each side. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. Increase 2 stitches in total on every increase row (1 stitch in each side).

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as regular stitches).

BUTTONHOLES (applies to right band when garment is worn):
Decrease for 5 buttonholes on right band.
1 buttonhole = work 2 stitches together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Bottom buttonhole should be approx. 2 cm from bottom edge and top buttonhole where V-neck begins. Place the remaining 3 buttonholes evenly, approx. 8-8-8-7½-7½-7½ cm between each buttonhole.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front, work top down. AT THE SAME TIME increase V-neck and raglan. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body back and forth on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down. At the end work a neck edge/band around the opening on jacket.

YOKE:
Cast on 70-72-74-76-78-80 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 5 mm with Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side.

OVERVIEW OF THE NEXT SECTION:
Now start the pattern on the sleeves, at the same time increase for raglan and V-neck – therefore read the entire next section before starting.
Insert 4 marker threads in piece as follows (without working the stitches): Count 3 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in next stitch, count 21 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in next stitch, count 18-20-22-24-26-28 stitches (= back piece), insert 1 marker thread in next stitch, count 21 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in next stitch, 3 stitches remain on row after last marker thread (= front piece). Then work in stocking stitch on stitches on front pieces and on back piece, and A.1 (= 21 stitches) over stitches on each sleeve, AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side increase for RAGLAN in every transition between body and sleeves – read explanation above. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically continue with A.2 (= 25 stitches) over stitches in A.1 and continue increase for raglan every other row (i.e. on every row from right side) until increase has been done 22-25-27-29-33-36 times in total on each side of the 4 stitches with marker threads. Now continue increase on back piece and on front pieces 2 more times (do not increase on sleeves, increase has been done 24-27-29-31-35-38 times on back piece/front pieces). AT THE SAME TIME on 6th row (i.e. on 3rd row from right side) increase for V-NECK in each side towards mid front – read explanation above, as follows: Increase every 6th row 4-5-6-7-8-9 times, every 4th row 3 times in total (= 7-8-9-10-11-12 stitches in total increased in each side towards mid front). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After last increase for raglan continue without increases until piece measures 22-25-27-29-33-36 cm, increases for V-neck should now be finished. There are now 276-304-324-344-380-408 stitches on needle.

Work next row as follows:
Work the first 35-39-42-45-50-54 stitches (= front piece), slip the next
69-75-79-83-91-97 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-10-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), work the next 68-76-82-88-98-106 stitches (= back piece), slip the next 69-75-79-83-91-97 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8-10-12 new stitches on needle (= in the side under sleeve), and work the remaining 35-39-42-45-50-54 stitches (= front piece). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 150-166-178-194-218-238 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 25-24-24-24-22-21 cm from division, knit 1 row from right side while increasing 1 stitch = 151-167-179-195-219-239 stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work next row as follows from wrong side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, purl 1 and finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, read CAST-OFF TIP. Jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 69-75-79-83-91-97 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on a short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches cast on in the side under sleeve = 75-81-85-91-101-109 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-6-8-10-12 stitches under sleeve and move the marker thread upwards when working, it is used for decrease later. Begin round at the marker thread and continue with A.2 and stocking stitch in the round. When piece measures 3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3-2-1½-1-1 cm 10-11-13-16-19-21 times in total = 55-59-59-59-63-67 stitches. Continue until piece measures 38-36-34-33-29-26 cm from division - or desired length (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke). Work 1 round while decreasing 11 stitches evenly over stitches in A.2 = 44-48-48-48-52-56 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 1 for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember CAST-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve the same way.

BAND + NECK EDGE:
Insert 1 marker mid back of neck on back piece, marker should be used to calculate half the stitches on band/neck edge. Pick up band inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on front pieces, and in the 1st row worked around the neck.
Begin at the bottom on right front piece from right side and pick up approx. 119-125-131-137-143-149 stitches along the entire front edge up to marker in the neck, on circular needle size 4 mm – leave the marker here. Continue to pick up approx. 120-126-132-138-144-150 stitches along the entire front edge on left front piece, total number of stitches should be divisible by 2 + 1 = approx. 239-251-263-275-287-299 stitches. It is important that the rib is not too loose with too many stitches but it should not be too tight either with tight front edges.
Work next row as follows from wrong side: 2 stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* until 3 stitches remain, purl 1 and finish with 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this. When piece measures 1 ½ cm decrease for BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above. Continue like this until rib measures 3 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl, remember cast-off tip.

ASSEMBLY
Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 16.04.2021
YOKE:
... When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically continue with A.2 (= 25 stitches) over stitches in A.1 ...
Updated online: 19.08.2021
BUTTONHOLES:... Place the remaining 3 buttonholes evenly, approx. 8-8-8-7½-7½-7½ cm between each buttonhole.

Diagram

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over twisted. It should not make a hole.
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over It should make a hole.
symbols = KNIT 5 STITCHES TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS: Knit 5, pass them back on left needle, pass the next to last stitch over the last so that this stitch is around the last stitch, repeat until all 4 stitches have been passed over (= 4 stitches decreased), pass the last stitch worked back on right needle.
symbols = KNIT 5 STITCHES TWISTED TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS: Knit 5, pass next to last stitch worked over the last so that this stitch is around the last stitch, repeat until all 4 stitches have been passed over (= 4 stitches decreased).
symbols = slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 1, knit from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Bronze Summer

Inger, Norway

Bronze Summer

Iuliia, Portugal

Bronze Summer

Miriam From MS_butterflydesign, Germany

Bronze Summer

Malwina, Poland

Bronze Summer

Sabine, Germany

Bronze Summer

JoeJ5, France

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Comments / Questions (95)

country flag Susanne Risager Hougaard wrote:

Hej Jeg søger en opskrift som er blevet væk. Det er en grøn cardigan med et mønster på ærmet som ligner mønstret i denne opskrift. Derudover var cardigan strikket på pind 5. Og i perle strik. Jeg fandt den på drops den 21 10. 24. Men nu er den væk. Den bliver strikket nede fra, det ene forstykke og derefter ud i ærmet i et. Hvis i kan være behjælpelige med denne opskrift. Vil jeg blive glad. Mvh Susanne.

10.11.2024 - 18:51

country flag Margret Scipio-Verploegen wrote:

In het patroon van de mouwen staat: 5 STEKEN RECHT SAMEN. Plaatsen op linkernld, haal de VOLGENDE tot de LAATSTE steek over. Welke steek wordt bedoeld met de VOLGENDE? de 2e steek vanaf het begin over de 1ste steek op de linkernld en zo verder voor de rest? Hetzelfde is onduidelijk bij 5 STEKEN GEDRAAID RECHT SAMEN. Is de volgende de 5e steek en dan naar voren of begin je bij de 2e steek op de naald?

17.10.2024 - 11:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Margret,

Er stond een vertaalfout in, het moest een na laatste steek zijn in plaats van volgende tot laatste steek. Als het goed is, is het nu aangepast in het online patroon.

19.10.2024 - 10:52

country flag Nina Kristin Espeland wrote:

Hei. Kor stor skal bronze summer cardigan bli over bysten i størrelsene M-L-XL? Finner ikkje dette målet på oppskriften.

09.07.2024 - 13:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Nina. Målskissen med cm mål til oppskriften finner du nederst på siden. Det er ikke felt eller økt masker i siden, så brystmålet er det samme som du ser nederst på jakken. mvh DROPS Design

09.07.2024 - 13:24

country flag Gunnfrid Eide wrote:

Strikkar på ei jakke, Drops 221-4,Bronze Summer. Eg får ikkje mønsteret til å stemme - når eg aukar raglan, skal det bli eit aukande felt med rettstrikk ved sida av mønsteret langs armen. Når eg fylgjer oppskrifta, får eg ikkje dette feltet, berre aukande masketal på framstykket og på ryggen - kva gjer eg feil ?

02.07.2024 - 21:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Gunnfrid, jo du skal øge på hver side af den glatstrikkede maske (den ene side er på ærmet og den anden side er forstykke eller rygstykke) Se forklaring: RAGLAN: Øk 1 maske på hver side av 1 maske glattstrikk (masken med merketråd) i hver overgang mellom bol og ermer (= 8 masker økt på pinnen). Øk 1 maske ved å lage 1 kast om pinnen. På neste pinne strikkes kastene vridd vrang slik at det ikke blir hull. Videre strikkes de nye maskene i glattstrikk.

03.07.2024 - 08:01

country flag Rochelle wrote:

Hi, Can you clarify. When do I start the increases on the V neck sides? Every 2nd (right side) row or on the 6th row from the start of pattern, or after A1. is complete, start increases on V neck every 6th row and 4th row ? (size L) Thanks

26.05.2024 - 08:15

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rochelle, after you start knitting the pattern A.2 (on the stitches of the earlier A.1), on the 6th row should you start the increases for the V neck, and then you should "Increase every 6th row 4-5-6-7-8-9 times, every 4th row 3 times in total". Happy Knitting!

26.05.2024 - 11:26

country flag Deni wrote:

Can you explain the part where I'm supposed to pick up in addition 1 stitch in each of the 10 sts casted on under sleeves(size xxl)?thanks.

30.04.2024 - 15:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deni, if you click on the "Videos" just elow the itle line, you can find a bunch of relevant videos that can help yoi knit this piece. For underarms, you should pick up one stitches in each one you casted on, when divided the body and the sleeves, much like THIS video shows. Happy Crafting!

30.04.2024 - 15:29

country flag Deni wrote:

Can you explain please when is V neck increasing supposed to start for size L? I finished diagram A1 and about to start A2.

02.04.2024 - 09:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Deni, You begin to increase for the V-neck on row 6 in A.2 (3rd row from the right side). Happy knitting!

03.04.2024 - 06:45

country flag Deni wrote:

So it is standard YO.I was wondering because in pattern explanation it says do it within the edge stitch. Thanks.

22.03.2024 - 06:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deni, yes, it's worked as a standard YO. In this case "within" is used as within the edge/band (not specifically the stitch) so it should be right next to the edge (that is, right after or before the edge stitch). Happy knitting!

24.03.2024 - 23:30

country flag Deni wrote:

Hello, Can you explain how to do yarn over for V neck increases? In the pattern it says to make 1 YO inside 1 edge stitch.

21.03.2024 - 16:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Dany, please see the explanations under the V_NECK chapter. You knit the edge stitch, do a YO, then knit (as described in the pattern) until the last stitch, YO, and do the edge stitch. In the next row, these yarnovers are knitted TWISTED, so there will be no holes in their places. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!

21.03.2024 - 21:51

country flag Anna Pędras wrote:

Oczka na dekolt zaczynam dodawać po tym jak skończę dodawanie 22x8? Zaczynam liczyć 6 rząd od momentu gdy dodaję już tylko na przód/tył tak?

10.03.2024 - 20:58

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Aniu, zaczynasz dodawać oczka na reglan, a od 6-tego rzędu (tj. w 3-cim rzędzie na prawej stronie robótki - licząc od początku dodawania oczek na reglan) równocześnie będziesz dodawać oczka na dekolt V z każdej strony. Zobacz SKRÓCONY OPIS KOLEJNEJ CZĘŚCI OPISU. Pozdrawiamy!

11.03.2024 - 08:35